Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[gcdowd]

Ahhh mine keeps leaking. The stainless steel washer on the inside is not flush against the plastic, which is how I suspect it's leaking. I tightened everything as best I could, am I missing something?

 

[bottlebomber]

Ahhh mine keeps leaking. The stainless steel washer on the inside is not flush against the plastic, which is how I suspect it's leaking. I tightened everything as best I could, am I missing something?

Its not supposed to be flush against the plastic on the inside, its supposed to have the "stock" white rubber gasket that came with the cooler between the inside wall and the washer creating a seal. Hopefully that's your only problem

 

[gcdowd]

Its not supposed to be flush against the plastic on the inside, its supposed to have the "stock" white rubber gasket that came with the cooler between the inside wall and the washer creating a seal. Hopefully that's your only problem

So the whole rubber seal needs to be on the inside? Right now I have it half in, as it was when I bought it.

 

[bottlebomber]

Deleted: double post

 

[bottlebomber]

So the whole rubber seal needs to be on the inside? Right now I have it half in, as it was when I bought it.

The white rubber seal should completely cover the hole through the cooler, and the washer clamped against this should seal it. If it doesn't, you you may have a little too much play in the setup and may need to add another washer on the outside. Looking at mine now... I think you need to flip the white rubber piece around so that the smaller side of it is facing outward, not going inside the hole. That's how mine is at least, accidently im sure.

 

[gcdowd]

The white rubber seal should completely cover the hole through the cooler, and the washer clamped against this should seal it. If it doesn't, you you may have a little too much play in the setup and may need to add another washer on the outside. Looking at mine now... I think you need to flip the white rubber piece around so that the smaller side of it is facing outward, not going inside the hole. That's how mine is at least, accidently im sure.

The rubber seal is in correctly. Also have three washers on the outside and tight. One thing is that my valve can still sort of rotate, which is not good I assume. Is it possible I need two washers on the inside? I'm at a loss...

 

[MichaelBrock]

Another common problem is that the nipple is too long and lacks sufficient threads. This keeps the inside nut from applying proper compression to tighten things down (which is why adding the washers helps). When I built mine I ended up needing too many washers so I followed the advice of someone in this thread and went to a shorter nipple that is threaded on its entire length (there is a special name for it but it eludes me; search for "nipple" on the thread). I ended up needing only a single washer on the outside and inside and things tightened down very well. Initially it didn't seem that the nipple would be long enough but it worked.

 

[gcdowd]

Another common problem is that the nipple is too long and lacks sufficient threads. This keeps the inside nut from applying proper compression to tighten things down (which is why adding the washers helps). When I built mine I ended up needing too many washers so I followed the advice of someone in this thread and went to a shorter nipple that is threaded on its entire length (there is a special name for it but it eludes me; search for "nipple" on the thread). I ended up needing only a single washer on the outside and inside and things tightened down very well. Initially it didn't seem that the nipple would be long enough but it worked.

I think I found it. Use a 3/8 x close brass nipple. I'll give it a shot.

How long was the brass nipple you got? I fear the shorter nipple will cause my valve handle to hit the side of the cooler so it won't close all the way.

 

[MichaelBrock]

How long was the brass nipple you got? I fear the shorter nipple will cause my valve handle to hit the side of the cooler so it won't close all the way.

Mine does hit the side of the cooler and I too was worried about that but it does close completely. Unfortunately, with that shorter nipple you won't be able to add another washer on the outside to give it sufficient clearance.

 

[gcdowd]

Mine does hit the side of the cooler and I too was worried about that but it does close completely. Unfortunately, with that shorter nipple you won't be able to add another washer on the outside to give it sufficient clearance.

Ok. I was also thinking that maybe I could put an o-ring on the inside between the original rubber gasket that came with the cooler and the ss washer. Would that work? Not sure if the o-rings are food grade and heat resistant. Maybe I'll just try the new nipple first.

 

[MichaelBrock]

I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.

 

[gcdowd]

I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.

The original post only had an o-ring on the outside so I'm nervous about using on the inside. Either way, I may try both methods. Thanks!

 

[bottlebomber]

I don't think the O ring on the outside was functional in my case... the seal was on the inside. If it wasn't that would mean hot wort was contacting the foam inside the cooler. That would be lame

 

[gcdowd]

I don't think the O ring on the outside was functional in my case... the seal was on the inside. If it wasn't that would mean hot wort was contacting the foam inside the cooler. That would be lame

You put the o-ring on the inside? As I have it now, the only thing separating the inside from outside was the rubber seal that came with the cooler. It doesn't seem like the ss washer was pressed enough against it. My first attempt leaked immediately. I tightened some things and filled half way with water, no leak. Opened the valve, water came out but also leaked under the valve as well, a slow steady drip.

 

[bottlebomber]

You put the o-ring on the inside? As I have it now, the only thing separating the inside from outside was the rubber seal that came with the cooler. It doesn't seem like the ss washer was pressed enough against it. My first attempt leaked immediately. I tightened some things and filled half way with water, no leak. Opened the valve, water came out but also leaked under the valve as well, a slow steady drip.

The black O ring (I couldn't find silicon) was to go on the outside of the cooler, which I did, but I can't see that its functional. Just like yours, the only thing sealing mine is the seal that came with the cooler. I really think if you flip your seal around so that its not going inside the thru-hole, it will give you enough of a gap for your washer to clamp on it nicely. Also, some guys have given up and just obtained food grade silicon sealant, and applied it around the hole.

 

[gcdowd]

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

 

[Guidry]

Here’s a photo of the inside of mine (used a Home Depot 10gal cooler):


Braid is a 24” x ¾” water heater hose with the innards removed. It is clamped to a reducing T (¾”x ¾” x ½”). From the ½” connection is a short piece of ½” copper pipe. Here’s where my small claim of ingenuity came in. (see photo below) The next piece is a female adapter (1/2” x 3/8”) that I slipped the end of the pipe in and then drilled a hole from one side to the other to accept a small brass screw. The screw acts like a cotter pin to hold the pipe in but also allows it to be removed so that I can clean the braid easier. The adapter is threaded on the 3/8” end and functions as a nut to clamp against the SS washer.



I used a brass pipe nipple (3/8” x Close) thru the cooler wall. That length “close” is what is shown on the packaging. It is about an inch long and if I recall, it is threaded the full length. I have the OEM rubber seal through the hole in the cooler wall and as shown, one washer on the inside. I also used one of the black washers from the heater hose between the washer and the cooler wall. I tested it for about 2 hrs with hot water and no leaks.

Outside is pretty much what has been discussed before. I have 2 SS washers clamped on using a 3/8" coupling then another brass nipple leading to the ball valve with a hose barb adapter.



OK, that had to have something in there that was confusing, so if you have questions, let me know.

Now to take that leap into the all-grain world! Looking for advice on a first recipe.

 

[bottlebomber]

Nice! I might have to borrow your modification, it looks much sturdier that the original, and I love being able to easily remove the braid for cleaning. I don't know what kind of beer you like, but so far I have brewed Samhain Pumpkin Ale and O' Flannagains stout using this and they were both awesome

 

[gcdowd]

Hey all, finally got it to work with no leaks. I ended up adding a second o-ring to the outside then tightened it further. Held 10 gallons of water in it for 75 mins then drained. Also, only lost 1 degree of temp in that time...rockin! Thanks everyone for the help, and thanks Fly Guy for the great idea!

 

[Stockspeed3]

Looks like I will be building this soon.

 

[Skarekrough]

Looks like I will be building this soon.

Totally worth the time and money to do it.

Have a blast!

 

[malweth]

FYI:

I converted a chest cooler that has a drain on a 45 degree angle to the bottom. To bring the opening closer to the bottom and reduce the dead space I used Watts parts:

A-760 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 FIP) Male to Female thread gender changer
A-186 (3/8 MIP flare x 3/8 MIP) 90 degree adapter
​

between the A-298 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 hose barb) and the A-786 (3/8 MIP nipple).

I haven't tried it out yet (still trying to get the leaks to stop), but I don't think it will be a problem.

For hose I'm planning on using Watts SBVKG10 (5/8 OD, 3/8 ID) Braided Vinyl Tubing (Home Depot says it's good to 175 degrees F) unless someone thinks that would be a problem...

 

[Waterboy42]

Finally up to do this with two ten gallon coolers, since they dropped in price. No stainless braids. But I want the versatility to fly sparge. Buying the NB false bottom tomorrow and seeing how it goes.

 

[bottlebomber]

Finally up to do this with two ten gallon coolers, since they dropped in price. No stainless braids. But I want the versatility to fly sparge. Buying the NB false bottom tomorrow and seeing how it goes.

You might want to research/reconsider that... there is a LOT of murmering about that particular item, evidently it kind of sucks. It doesn't really fit the cooler that well to begin with, and after the cooler inevitably warps from putting 170 degree water in it a few times the situation gets worse. This is really the way to go if your not going to invest in a kettle set up.

 

[Waterboy42]

You might want to research/reconsider that... there is a LOT of murmering about that particular item, evidently it kind of sucks. It doesn't really fit the cooler that well to begin with, and after the cooler inevitably warps from putting 170 degree water in it a few times the situation gets worse. This is really the way to go if your not going to invest in a kettle set up.

Long term, it will fit in a kettle, hence the purchase. But, I can't disagree.

 

[Waterboy42]

But then agai, I have acces to a machine shop that works with stainless.

 

[bottlebomber]

I run half a shop that specializes in stainless and nickel alloys, but it would still be a lot of set up time to try and make a false bottom. You would need a punch machine to make the slots or holes, cut out a nicely fit piece of metal (which would probably need to be ordered from Fry or Carpenter steel, and they're not cheap. Then you'd need to weld the feet on and make the dip tube fitting. By the time your done, you will have 10 hours into the thing, and probably $40. And do you know what kind of kettle your going to buy? Because the false bottom for the Rubbermaid is smaller in diameter than many kettles. This is seriously an awesome build while you get good at AG brewing and wait or save for your ultimate brewing setup. Just my take on it.

 

[Waterboy42]

I meant that I may build a larger kettle to fit.

 

[CGVT]

FYI:

I converted a chest cooler that has a drain on a 45 degree angle to the bottom. To bring the opening closer to the bottom and reduce the dead space I used Watts parts:

A-760 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 FIP) Male to Female thread gender changer
A-186 (3/8 MIP flare x 3/8 MIP) 90 degree adapter
​

between the A-298 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 hose barb) and the A-786 (3/8 MIP nipple).

I haven't tried it out yet (still trying to get the leaks to stop), but I don't think it will be a problem.

For hose I'm planning on using Watts SBVKG10 (5/8 OD, 3/8 ID) Braided Vinyl Tubing (Home Depot says it's good to 175 degrees F) unless someone thinks that would be a problem...

If you haven't already bought it, I would go with the stainless just to be sure. I got mine at HD and got the one with the compression fitting on one end (by the copper pipe and valves) it was about 12 bucks. I'm not sure of the diameterm but it was large than the nipple. I attached it to the nipple with a wire tie and have had no problems.

 

[scottsr123]

Has anyone ever tried using one of these on a 5 or 10 gallon Rubbermaid to make a mash tun?
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-bottling-spigot.html

They are a perfect fit for the existing spigot, and a 3/4" pipe fitting screws on the threads inside the cooler to attach a manifold. Anyone see a downside to this?