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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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You think a bazooka screen would lead to stuck sparges? Really? It's just a stainless steel braid in essence isn't it?

I'm just going to be batch sparging. Think it would still be a problem?

Not sure about this since I have a false bottom, but I always thought that if you are going to have a lot of grain/weight, the braid can collapse a bit. I doubt it is a concern for a 5 gal batch of a big beer (i.e., 13-15 lbs of grain).
 
Yeah, I think without modifying it somehow that the grain bed will compact down and INTO that Bazooka screen. I think someone mentioned using one but they had some type of 'roof' or 'cover' over the top half of it to avoid the compaction. Those Bazooka screens aren't as tight of a screen as the SS braids suggested by Fly Guy.

For under 10 bucks and 30 minutes with a hack saw, you could build a copper manifold that will never float, break or get clogged with grain matter. The slots are on the bottom.
 
Yeah, I think without modifying it somehow that the grain bed will compact down and INTO that Bazooka screen. I think someone mentioned using one but they had some type of 'roof' or 'cover' over the top half of it to avoid the compaction. Those Bazooka screens aren't as tight of a screen as the SS braids suggested by Fly Guy.

For under 10 bucks and 30 minutes with a hack saw, you could build a copper manifold that will never float, break or get clogged with grain matter. The slots are on the bottom.

Got a tutorial?
 
Yeah I do think that you'll run into problems with it clogging. Mine clogs in the kettle sometimes from hops. A grain bed is going to compact down more than my hops do. I would also be concerned with channeling in the event that only part of it becomes clogged. You could end up drawing sparge water from a very small portion of your grain bed sucking through a hole the size of a dime.

I haven't tried it and maybe someone will say they work fine, but I just see trouble awaiting with those things in a MLT and look forward to getting a false bottom in my kettle so that I can ditch the one that I have.

My manifold sits on the very bottom of the MLT and sucks the thing dry by siphon. Those bazooka screens don't really do that.
 
Got a tutorial?

Just use elbows, tees and rigid copper tubing to make something like this:

images


That is the underside of the thing.
 
I don't solder mine. It comes apart for easy cleaning. I cut the tubing so that it would fit snug along the bottom and against the walls of the cooler.
 
Oh and a hint. (It looks like the guy in the photo used the same parts.)

The tee in the middle has (2) 45 degree elbows where the rest are 90 degrees. You connect them at opposite angles and you have your 'dip tube' angle to reach over your manifold to get to your valve.
 
How do you hook it up to the hose barb on the inside of the cooler?

Edit: I'll consider this but I might just buy a false bottom.
 
I used a nylon threaded barb and screwed that into the valve. I cut an inch or 2 piece of copper tubing and shoved it over the barbed end. The 45 degree elbow coming off of that middle tee slips into the piece of copper tubing. I control the snug fit by backing out that nylon barb a turn or two. It kinda 'snaps' into place.
 
Found a stainless braid and all stainless (including screws) clamps at home depot. Got it all set up and it works great. Now to test it with grain.

P.S.--That ****in braid was a pain in the ass. I was bleeding and it took like 5-10 minutes to get the support out of it (the plastic thingy).
 
So you're using the braid as a filter on your MLT, noot the old false bottom?

Yes, much cheaper and many have had success. There seems to be a ton of people complaining about stuck sparges with false bottoms and many who say they're the only way to go. I'm going to try fly guys design first since its cheap, easy, and works for a lot of people. If I have issues ill report back and try a manifold or false bottom.
 
Okay, I've only read the first 77 pages, but thanks to everyone for all of their input. I ended up with a 5 gal Rubbermaid for around 10 bucks, not expecting to go AG, but couldn't pass it up. Came home, read this thread, then went and bought everything at Lowe's except the S/S washer.

I'm not handy at all and never done anything close to this, so I ended up with some leaks last night after trying various rubber washer/o-ring combos. It turns out I had an old package of "rubber hose washers" from Ace that fit perfectly and I stacked three of them on the inside behind the o-ring and the original seal. So far, so good this morning. I had previously been trying to use the big ugly stinky black rubber washers from Lowes, but these Ace washers seem to be much better suited. Hope that helps someone.
 
Instead of a manifold, why can't you make a diptube going to a valve, and line your cooler with one of the nylon paint straining bags like used for BIAB brewing? Wouldn't that allow all the grain to drain and filter?
 
That might work, but you've got to consider that the grains are meant to compact to a certain extent from the drainage. The grains in the bag would compact around the dip tube and you'd be draining from a singular point that would be very prone to a stuck sparge.
Maybe if you suspended the bag just above the dip tube as you drained, but at that point a mesh tube or manifold is way easier, durable, and proven to be successful.
 
Instead of a manifold, why can't you make a diptube going to a valve, and line your cooler with one of the nylon paint straining bags like used for BIAB brewing? Wouldn't that allow all the grain to drain and filter?

Some people put a bag over their manifold.

And the Manifold is a dip tube. It's just really spread out.
 
Also, when using the singular dip tube with the bag instead of a manifold, bigger dead spots are created in which sugars get left in the mash tun.
 
Just wanted to say "Thanks!" to FlyGuy for the excellent instructions. Got everything put together and leak free in under 20 minutes. I found the SS clamps and washers at Ace Hardware, in case that helps anyone.
 
That might work, but you've got to consider that the grains are meant to compact to a certain extent from the drainage. The grains in the bag would compact around the dip tube and you'd be draining from a singular point that would be very prone to a stuck sparge.
Maybe if you suspended the bag just above the dip tube as you drained, but at that point a mesh tube or manifold is way easier, durable, and proven to be successful.

Some people put a bag over their manifold.

And the Manifold is a dip tube. It's just really spread out.

Also, when using the singular dip tube with the bag instead of a manifold, bigger dead spots are created in which sugars get left in the mash tun.

Thanks - built a 5 gal. last night , with manifold - pre-heated with 1 gal boiling water for 5 mins - filled with 170 degree water - 2 hrs later no leaks and water 166 - I'm a believer!
 
I've been considering AG brewing for awhile now and just picked up a large enough brew pot to get me going this weekend. I have a 10 gallon cooler that I'm going to convert to a MLT but I've got a few questions. First, the cooler that FlyGuy used and it seems like a lot of other people have used is the rubbermaid one. The cooler I've got is All Sport (some sports drink that I don't think exists anymore). What is the diameter of the hole in the rubbermaid cooler? I took the spigot off my cooler and the hole has a 1" diameter, and seeing how a lot of the components listed are 5/8", I wasn't sure if since that is the ID that I am ok or if I need larger components.

Also, I'm planning on using the SS braid with the vinyl tubing inside like FlyGuy suggested. I read through many of these 138 pages, but nowhere near all and noticed there might be some problems with the braid. Any final verdict on the braid? I don't plan on fly sparging so I think I will be alright but I just wanted to make sure.
 
Found a stainless braid and all stainless (including screws) clamps at home depot. Got it all set up and it works great. Now to test it with grain.

P.S.--That ****in braid was a pain in the ass. I was bleeding and it took like 5-10 minutes to get the support out of it (the plastic thingy).

Dude, mine was extremely easy to push the stainless off, but you are not kidding about the bleeding.

The bazooka screens are no better. I'd suggest using some gloves or something if you're grabbing either to hand-tighten. I have/had a stupid amount of tiny little cuts all over my fingers and it pretty much sucks.
 
I've been considering AG brewing for awhile now and just picked up a large enough brew pot to get me going this weekend. I have a 10 gallon cooler that I'm going to convert to a MLT but I've got a few questions. First, the cooler that FlyGuy used and it seems like a lot of other people have used is the rubbermaid one. The cooler I've got is All Sport (some sports drink that I don't think exists anymore). What is the diameter of the hole in the rubbermaid cooler? I took the spigot off my cooler and the hole has a 1" diameter, and seeing how a lot of the components listed are 5/8", I wasn't sure if since that is the ID that I am ok or if I need larger components.

Also, I'm planning on using the SS braid with the vinyl tubing inside like FlyGuy suggested. I read through many of these 138 pages, but nowhere near all and noticed there might be some problems with the braid. Any final verdict on the braid? I don't plan on fly sparging so I think I will be alright but I just wanted to make sure.

WOrks great for me. Just use palstic zip thingies tos ecure it and not ose clamps as they can rust
 
+1 to the zip ties instead of the clamps due to rust. You should size up the equipment you're going to use, or you can buy the bigger fittings from Bargain Fittings instead of chasing all the parts down.
 
I've been considering AG brewing for awhile now and just picked up a large enough brew pot to get me going this weekend. I have a 10 gallon cooler that I'm going to convert to a MLT but I've got a few questions. First, the cooler that FlyGuy used and it seems like a lot of other people have used is the rubbermaid one. The cooler I've got is All Sport (some sports drink that I don't think exists anymore). What is the diameter of the hole in the rubbermaid cooler? I took the spigot off my cooler and the hole has a 1" diameter, and seeing how a lot of the components listed are 5/8", I wasn't sure if since that is the ID that I am ok or if I need larger components.

Also, I'm planning on using the SS braid with the vinyl tubing inside like FlyGuy suggested. I read through many of these 138 pages, but nowhere near all and noticed there might be some problems with the braid. Any final verdict on the braid? I don't plan on fly sparging so I think I will be alright but I just wanted to make sure.
I made a copper manifold today for eighteen bucks.
 
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