Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[IPAAAA]

What has everyone used as a thermometer for their this? I want to add one to it but just don't know which is good and will work best.

I am tired of using my little floating one.

 

[DrawTap88]

Good call on the baby bottle nipple. I never would've thought of that.

For the thermometer, I started using a digital food thermometer but then got one of these. I'm sure there is a way to attach a permanent thermometer, but I'm not savvy enough to figure it out.

 

[cheez]

What has everyone used as a thermometer for their this? I want to add one to it but just don't know which is good and will work best.

I am tired of using my little floating one.

Here's an idea: http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/02/15/add-thermometer-probe-to-hlt-mlt-cooler/

 

[IPAAAA]

Good call on the baby bottle nipple. I never would've thought of that.

For the thermometer, I started using a digital food thermometer but then got one of these. I'm sure there is a way to attach a permanent thermometer, but I'm not savvy enough to figure it out.

That is what I would like to use. So no one here has attached a thermometer like people have on metal HLT?

Here's an idea: http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/02/15/add-thermometer-probe-to-hlt-mlt-cooler/

I don't really trust electronic thermometers. Have you tried this guys method? Seems a little sketchy with the bung and what not.

 

[cheez]

That is what I would like to use. So no one here has attached a thermometer like people have on metal HLT?



I don't really trust electronic thermometers. Have you tried this guys method? Seems a little sketchy with the bung and what not.

No, I haven't tried it. Here's another kit http://morebeer.com/view_product/17511/102307/6%22_Thermometer_Kit_for_Rubbermaid_Coolers but I haven't tried this one either. It would be handy to have but I am always afraid of drilling more holes into the cooler.

Check out this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rubbermaid-cooler-thermometer-171517/

 

[klyph]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#36895k831

Or if you like paying double at morebeer
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17506/102308/Bulkhead_for_Coolers_with_1_2"_FPT_x_1_2"_FPT

 

[limulus]

You could add one of these to your 1/2" valve. Add a short nipple to your valve and then screw this on:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-168/in-dsh-line-thermometer-temperature-monitor/Detail

 

[IPAAAA]

No, I haven't tried it. Here's another kit http://morebeer.com/view_product/17511/102307/6%22_Thermometer_Kit_for_Rubbermaid_Coolers but I haven't tried this one either. It would be handy to have but I am always afraid of drilling more holes into the cooler.

Check out this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rubbermaid-cooler-thermometer-171517/

A little on the pricey side but I guess it could work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#36895k831

Or if you like paying double at morebeer
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17506/102308/Bulkhead_for_Coolers_with_1_2"_FPT_x_1_2"_FPT

That looks nice.

You could add one of these to your 1/2" valve. Add a short nipple to your valve and then screw this on:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-168/in-dsh-line-thermometer-temperature-monitor/Detail

Wonder how accurate it would be. Plus where does the probe come out? Looks funky in the picture.

 

[Jeebas]

You could add one of these to your 1/2" valve. Add a short nipple to your valve and then screw this on:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-168/in-dsh-line-thermometer-temperature-monitor/Detail

So that fitting would go before the valve? Cooler wall > this thermometer thing > ball valve (and obvously any fittings in between)?

 

[limulus]

So that fitting would go before the valve? Cooler wall > this thermometer thing > ball valve (and obvously any fittings in between)?

I think you could use it before the valve or after the valve depending on your purpose. I think the only fitting you would need is an additional nipple. I recirculate with a pump and I use a PID for temp control in my beverage cooler. I'm thinking about putting one between the cooler and the valve. The valve would be pointing downward or sideways. If pointed down, it would help with gravity flow systems.

 

[cheez]

The only thing I don't like about the side mounted thermometer option is the fact that it would stick out inside the cooler and make it difficult to stir the mash. I don't want to worry about bumping into it. I could see how a side mounted thermo would be fine for a rubbermaid HLT...

I think I'm going to buy a 12" thermo and stick it through the lid. I'm not sure if this would extend down far enough for a 5 gallon batch but the only 5 gallon batches I do are high gravity with a ton of grain.

 

[johnodon]

It doesn't say that this is a sale price, but HD has this cooler for $39.96:

http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Everywhere else I have looked, this thing is $50+.

John

 

[DrawTap88]

The only thing I don't like about the side mounted thermometer option is the fact that it would stick out inside the cooler and make it difficult to stir the mash. I don't want to worry about bumping into it. I could see how a side mounted thermo would be fine for a rubbermaid HLT...

That's the same reason that I never looked into doing one on mine.

I think I'm going to buy a 12" thermo and stick it through the lid. I'm not sure if this would extend down far enough for a 5 gallon batch but the only 5 gallon batches I do are high gravity with a ton of grain.

It may just reach the top of the mash on a 5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon HD cooler. With my nine inch temp probe rockin I'm able to get readings from various depths of the mash. When I'm not using the probe I just stick it in the handle of the cooler, so that it is right there anytime I need it.

 

[fc36]

It doesn't say that this is a sale price, but HD has this cooler for $39.96:

http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Everywhere else I have looked, this thing is $50+.

John

They always have that cooler for that price. I was eyeing one for a long time hoping it would drop in price from $40. It was about 6 months before I decided to get serious about AG and when I went looking for one, I naturally thought HD was a little high in price. Low and behold, I found that they indeed have the cheapest price for that cooler of almost every place out there and you don't have to pay shipping on it either.

 

[DarkUncle]

You just have to be lucky enough to find one at Home Depot as they don't sell them online. Checked one so far and they were out of them. Seeing as how it's kind of out of cooler season right now, I don't anticipate them getting them in again until maybe spring.

I'm going to try 2 more near my home.

*Edit*

What about this one for those that can't find a cooler locally:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=14550424#ShortReviewTitleBar

97 cents shipping. Can't beat that!

 

[dwpumo]

looks great. I have used a big cooler in the past, but that looks way easier. Thanks.

 

[krazydave]

Looking to start getting into AG brewing and this thread has crossed my MLT building path quite a few times.

However, 128 pages of this and I've only had the time to go through the first 50 or so of them in the past 2 weeks.
Being that this thread started back in '07, I'm sure a lot of good ideas and changes have been made.

Would anyone be so kind as to summarize? or point me to a place where it is summarized in here someplace?

 

[johnnybrew]

Looking to start getting into AG brewing and this thread has crossed my MLT building path quite a few times.

However, 128 pages of this and I've only had the time to go through the first 50 or so of them in the past 2 weeks.
Being that this thread started back in '07, I'm sure a lot of good ideas and changes have been made.

Would anyone be so kind as to summarize? or point me to a place where it is summarized in here someplace?

When I made mine, I simply followed the instructions provided on the first several pages. Get the parts and slap it together. Was very easy and I have made many batches since. The only change I made was to use a false bottom instead of a bazooka tube. Just a matter of preference.

Have fun!

 

[Eddiebosox]

Same here. I had an Igloo cooler so I didn’t get a good seal. I had to buy more washers and eventually use food grade sealant to finish the job, but the first few pages pretty much show you how.

 

[Jeebas]

Looking to start getting into AG brewing and this thread has crossed my MLT building path quite a few times.

However, 128 pages of this and I've only had the time to go through the first 50 or so of them in the past 2 weeks.
Being that this thread started back in '07, I'm sure a lot of good ideas and changes have been made.

Would anyone be so kind as to summarize? or point me to a place where it is summarized in here someplace?

Just follow the initial post... If you have issues with the SS tube, your LHBS might have a bazooka screen option that you can just screw on.

SS fender washers are really hard to find as well. One of the users on here was generous enough to mail me one.

 

[DrawTap88]

Besides what the others have already said, I will add that the hose clamp that holds the screen/bazooka tube on in the original directions have been replaced with a zip tie due to corrosion.

Another thing that some have done, including myself, is make or get a false bottom or manifold out of cooper tubing for their MLT.

 

[johnnybrew]

FYI regarding the elusive fender washers: I just picked up a SS washer that was the correct size. You can get them at Fastenal. I don't know, but bet Lowe's or HD might have SS washers too.

 

[krazydave]

Besides what the others have already said, I will add that the hose clamp that holds the screen/bazooka tube on in the original directions have been replaced with a zip tie due to corrosion.

Another thing that some have done, including myself, is make or get a false bottom or manifold out of cooper tubing for their MLT.

Ah, yeah I think I was starting to get to the point where people were having mixed luck with the SS hose clamps.

What I concluded though is that a false bottom is better for a fly sparge, yet the SS braid is better for a batch sparge... Sound correct?

Since I read that Bobby M somehow gets 90% efficiency using the batch sparge method, I figured I'd try out that route first. Bobby if you read this, I'd love to know exactly how you do your sparges to get that much efficiency.

 

[DrawTap88]

Krazydave, you are correct with your conclusions regarding batch and fly sparging. Although, I'm not Bobby M, I'd wager that he says the first thing to look at his high efficiency is his crush. I know when I was getting bad efficiency that was my major problem. Also, using the proper amounts of water helps too.

 

[johnnybrew]

...What I concluded though is that a false bottom is better for a fly sparge, yet the SS braid is better for a batch sparge... Sound correct?

I have a false bottom in my 10 gal cooler and have been getting 83 - 86% efficiencies.

 

[krazydave]

I have a false bottom in my 10 gal cooler and have been getting 83 - 86% efficiencies.

With a batch or fly sparge?

 

[johnnybrew]

With a batch or fly sparge?

That was a key piece of info that I left out. Sorry! All batch, all day baby!

 

[ejearn]

If you are having trouble finding a SS fender washer, send me a pm and I am more than happy to mail you one. I ended up having to buy in bulk from fastenal.

 

[DarkUncle]

First off, the only place I could get the 5/8" SS washers were in Home Depot. Look for a small orang plastic package called "Create-A-Bolt". iT INCLUDES 4 SS washers in there along with along with 4 lock washers and 4 nuts. It cost $3.77.

Next, I got this all together nice and tight with no leaks. My only concern is the flow rate. How fast should the water be flowing out of the valve? Would too slow or fast pose any issues?

Thanks

 

[DrawTap88]

I've gotten bad efficiency when draining fast, but I know there are some others that have done well draining fast. It's all going to come down to knowing your system. Give fast a shot and if it doesn't work then you'll know to give slow a shot for the next time.