Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[MrInternet]

I did this to a 3Gal gatorade Igloo my parents had had for 20 something years. Works like a top, holds temp -2 deg for 75 minutes... I'll take that. Anyway, I was thinking about marking off gradations on the interior for gallons/quarts, as I plan to fill with over-heated water first and let the tun heat up until the water cools to strike temp. I already took the measurements, but I started thinking that maybe permanent marker wouldn't be the greatest thing to have in my mash tun... I know it's "permanent", but it seems that with the heat there might be a leeching of something harsh.

Has anyone done this? If not, what do you do to measure your strike water volume pre-grain?

 

[permo]

Wow, I just have to say thanks for posting this. THe parts list, with the numbers is invaluable. I didn't use a water cooler, but a 48 quart coleman rectangle cooler. I used the exact same parts list and it worked fantastically. I think I have a fully operation mash/lauter tun for $40! See ya later extract!

 

[brown_dog_us]

Thanks for the great right up FlyGuy!

 

[Auspice]

YIKES! I pulled this out of my garage today to brew and the metal looks rough. Did using Starsan do this? Is it safe to brew with?

 

[bernerbrau]

Just built one of these. Ended up using zinc washers, so I'm going to order some fender washers online before I actually use it. Just hope it's not so put together I can't unthread it.

I am leaking, though. I have o-rings on the front and back. Should I take one of them off?

 

[SOB]

Fellas...I'll admit I'm not going to take time to read the first 22 pages (40 posts per page) of this thread...sorry, I'm lazy! Is there anything I am missing other than the "make sure the braid is actual SS" or "make sure XX is actual SS?"

I have a true SS braid and washers and getting ready to buy the rest. I'm going to do a T so the braid makes a loop to lessen the stuck sparges.

 

[rico567]

Just built one of these. Ended up using zinc washers, so I'm going to order some fender washers online before I actually use it. Just hope it's not so put together I can't unthread it.

I am leaking, though. I have o-rings on the front and back. Should I take one of them off?

I'm using the kit from Bargain Fittings:

http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop1.html

(Scroll down until you see "weldless fitting for cooler.")

This includes two red-colored silicone O-rings. I use them per directions, which as I recall is one inside and one outside the cooler wall (cooler is the Rubbermaid/HD 10 gallon "big orange" product). The unit, when assembled, is not on my cooler very tight, i.e., it's pretty easy to turn, but I still get NO leaks.

 

[bernerbrau]

New discovery: magnets work on the washers I used. Does this mean they're stainless? Or could they still be zinc plated something? How do I tell?

 

[FlyGuy]

Just built one of these. Ended up using zinc washers, so I'm going to order some fender washers online before I actually use it. Just hope it's not so put together I can't unthread it.

I am leaking, though. I have o-rings on the front and back. Should I take one of them off?

If you are leaking, it is likely that you tightened too much. Overtightening is the usual cause of leaks, regardless if you use my inexpensive solution or the more expensive commercial fittings that rico567 uses.

 

[EO74]

My mlt has ruber gaskets in the inside and outside and it leaks if its too tight.

 

[limulus]

New discovery: magnets work on the washers I used. Does this mean they're stainless? Or could they still be zinc plated something? How do I tell?

Magnets won't work on good stainless. I have heard that magnets will stick to some lower grades of stainless. That was a trick someone taught me when I was buying a grill. I tried it on our fridge and no magnets will stick. Also, the inside of our dishwasher and washer/dryer are stainless and magnets do not stick.

 

[Montanaandy]

What is the outside diameter (OD) of the 5/8" fender washers that are used in the Rubbermaid mash tun conversion? I am having a tough time finding 5/8" SS fender washers. The local Fastenal has 5/8 x 1 3/4" SS fender washers. Is this the correct diameter for the application? Thanks, Montanaandy

 

[Montanaandy]

Nevermind. I found the Fastenal SKU # in an earlier portion of the thread. Montanaandy

 

[elmetal]

those are pretty much th right ones.

 

[baron]

Excellent post FlyGuy!!

I was looking at the 10 Gallon Cooler AGS at NorthernBrewer and contemplating buying it -- this included (2) 10 Gallon Cooler (1-MLT and 1-HLT).

Glad I checked here before purchasing at NB.

Don't get me wrong NB is an excellent supplier, but didn't want to spend $238.

Just ordered my coolers from Ace Hardware at $49 each with free shipping.
And was able to find all of the hardware (except for SS Fender Washer) at Lowe's and Home Depot. Ace Hardware might have them -- if no luck -- I'll resort to McMaster Carr or Fastenal.

 

[bernerbrau]

Got the fender washers from fastenal, tried to loosen the fittings, but I'm still leaking. Actually I think I'm leaking worse than before. Maybe I need some silicone.

 

[BoogieBrandBooze]

I built the 5-gallon version of this last week and it went quite well. Used it for my first partial mash last night (Oatmeal Coffee Milk Stout) and had some issues with a stuck sparge. I'm guessing that was because the 3# grain bill included 1# of instant oatmeal (1/3 of the total bill). The only way for me to get anything to drain was by constantly stirring the mash. Again, it was my very first attempt at partial mashing so my inexperience does not allow me to nail down the main reason but I'm thinking next time some rice hulls might be in order...

One thing I did notice was that the braid would stretch out as I stirred and it seemed like that may have restricted flow to a certain degree. Anyone else notice that? Would that even make a difference? Or can I put all the blame on the oatmeal clogging up the works?

 

[bernerbrau]

I should ask, do people get stuck sparges with a protein rest? And is the stirring kinking up the braid ever an issue?

 

[Montanaandy]

Just wanted to double check but I assume that the HLT is the same build as the MLT and is connected to the MLT via tubing. I am looking for an economical way to have the HLT & MLT and this seems to fit the bill. Is there anything else that I need/need to know regarding this setup? Thanks, Montanaandy

 

[baron]

Just wanted to double check but I assume that the HLT is the same build as the MLT and is connected to the MLT via tubing. I am looking for an economical way to have the HLT & MLT and this seems to fit the bill. Is there anything else that I need/need to know regarding this setup? Thanks, Montanaandy

I built my 10 gallon HLT the same as the 10 gallon MLT --

I have the output of the HLT (via tubing) going to a Stationary Sparge Arm --which sits on top of the MLT.

 

[FlyGuy]

I built my 10 gallon HLT the same as the 10 gallon MLT --

I have the output of the HLT (via tubing) going to a Stationary Sparge Arm --which sits on top of the MLT.

Me too (although I have more of a sparge 'ring' that sits on top of the grainbed).

 

[rico567]

Excellent post FlyGuy!!

I was looking at the 10 Gallon Cooler AGS at NorthernBrewer and contemplating buying it -- this included (2) 10 Gallon Cooler (1-MLT and 1-HLT).

Glad I checked here before purchasing at NB.

Don't get me wrong NB is an excellent supplier, but didn't want to spend $238.

Just ordered my coolers from Ace Hardware at $49 each with free shipping.
And was able to find all of the hardware (except for SS Fender Washer) at Lowe's and Home Depot. Ace Hardware might have them -- if no luck -- I'll resort to McMaster Carr or Fastenal.

You got it. It just kills me when I see what some people charge for their ready-made cooler conversions. I didn't go all-out bargain conversion, bought the 10 gal. "big orange" cooler featured in the OP of this thread and a Bargain Fittings kit, and still did the conversion for under $80, and never looked back. Have had 100% successful AG batches, great lautering, good efficiency. As far as I'd recommend this conversion to anyone.

 

[Arrogantbastard]

FlyGuy,

You wouldn't happen to have these instructions lying around in PDF form would you. I work at a home brew store and would love to print this out and post it for costomers. If not, no worries. I'll just copy and paste.

 

[underwaterdan]

Does this work for the 1610 rubbermaid cooler?

 

[daniel]

those brass fittings contain lead, if it were only water in your mash tun this would be fine but the acidity of your mash will leech the lead out. this is toxic to an extent and can also cause haze. an alternative is to use 3/8 copper tubing and instead of the washers use a rubber bung to seal around the tube with a plastic valve on the outside

 

[BreWirfel]

those brass fittings contain lead, if it were only water in your mash tun this would be fine but the acidity of your mash will leech the lead out. this is toxic to an extent and can also cause haze. an alternative is to use 3/8 copper tubing and instead of the washers use a rubber bung to seal around the tube with a plastic valve on the outside

soaking the brass in a vinegar/hydrogen peroxide solution (3-1) will remove the surface lead prior to brewing.

 

[greencoat]

Just built mine! It's taking the 1 hour 5 gallon hot water test right now. I goofed and got the non-stainless hose. Has anyone actually tried mashing with it??

Thanks for the idea, FlyGuy!

 

[FlyGuy]

Just built mine! It's taking the 1 hour 5 gallon hot water test right now. I goofed and got the non-stainless hose. Has anyone actually tried mashing with it??

Thanks for the idea, FlyGuy!

Glad to hear that the build went well, although you will absolutely have to replace that braid with a proper stainless steel one. Those plastic ones just won't work.

 

[elmetal]

soaking the brass in a vinegar/hydrogen peroxide solution (3-1) will remove the surface lead prior to brewing.

so anyone that uses a brass ball valve should soak their system with a 3-1 ratio of hyd peroxide to vinegar?

 

[FlyGuy]

so anyone that uses a brass ball valve should soak their system with a 3-1 ratio of hyd peroxide to vinegar?

Here is some good info from HowToBrew.com:

Cleaning Brass
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.