Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[poislb]

I used a close nipple instead of the 1 1/2" and i still will had pleanty of threads to work with, eliminates a few washers on the inside of the cooler (still will need 2 or 3 on the outside to clear the valve from the cooler)...I used both the close and the 1 1/2 on some builds and found the close to be a lot tigher fit. With the 1 1/2 i wasnt getting the snug fit i was looking for...just my 2 cents

 

[8rnw8]

Almost three years after the OP, but still, thank you flyguy. I fully intended to save up the money, and buy a MT/LT, AND a hot liquor tank. Using your write up, I saved over $130.

I will say I had a mother of a time getting the freakin assembly tightened up. I don't pretend to be handy, maybe(definitely!) that had something to do with it? I didn't have a socket that would fit over the ball valve, so I had to try and tighten with two crescent wrenches. Several extra o-rings and washers later, and even some help from SWMBO, I have two 10 gallon coolers converted to a complete fly sparge system that doesn't leak a drop. Neither assembly feels tight to me (I can spin the valve around), but I guess if it doesn't leak, don't complain?

Thanks again!

 

[sharkmuncher]

Another successful build to chalk up for this design. All I need now is a 10 gallon boil kettle and I am set for All Grain.

 

[jmanis]

Yeah, just add another washer to the outside.

Thanks, that was what I needed. Unfortunately the way I had to buy the washers the package didn't have enough so I had to buy another pack. Thanks again.

 

[Samtoberfest]

Excited to start all-grain brewing! I've been looking around for mashtun ideas and I really like this one. Question: Do you insert some sort of screen/false bottom so you don't drain all the pieces of grain out with the finished wort?

 

[mistercameron]

Excited to start all-grain brewing! I've been looking around for mashtun ideas and I really like this one. Question: Do you insert some sort of screen/false bottom so you don't drain all the pieces of grain out with the finished wort?

I just put mine together with a stainless mesh braid from a sink faucet line... $5 at home depot. It's a similar idea as buying the commercial bazooka tube.

 

[8rnw8]

There is a seller on eBay with copper manifolds for $20 that you can use with the system designed by the OP. The seller was awesome to deal with. I wish i had the name in front of me, i'd give him a recommendation. Just built my tun (with his manifold) and it greatly exceeded my expectations.

 

[underdogadam]

Build mine today. not as cheap as i was hoping, but i don't care. it's a piece of art. home depot for the 10gal cooler, and lowes for all the parts. $80.oo total, maybe lowes is over priced. but whatever. it's pretty cool. assembly was all of ten minutes, filled it right away to no leaks, now all i need is my grain order to get here.

i'd post pics, but i think you know what it looks like by now.

 

[Jefathome]

I'm gonna have to say that this is a GREAT thread BUT I'm not sold on the screen that is being used here.

I've done about 4 batches with the braided hose and it has worked out pretty good, but the screen gets beat to #$^#& every time and I think I'll have to replace it in a few batches. I've ordered up a 3/8in version of the Bazooka screen that will fit the 3/8in plumbing for these cooler MLT's. The braided works just as well, but it just doesnt have the longevity I'm looking for.

Braided screen (12in) - $8.75
Hose-barb to attach it to - $2.50
Stainless steel hose clamp(s) - $1
Total................................... $12.50


3/8in "bazooka" tube - $13.50

So for only $1 more I can get something that will work just as well but last a LOT longer.


The issue with the braided screen is that it is best when used in a batch-sparge (which includes some stirring of the grain bed), but when you do the stirring you will either crush the hose with your spoon, kink it, or pull it so tight that you can't get good flow through it. Or you just generally abuse it and the braid gets all jacked with dents and holes (where the braid gets compacted in one section and pushed apart adjacent to the compacted part).

 

[johnnybrew]

So for only $1 more I can get something that will work just as well but last a LOT longer.

For about $30 you can get a SS false bottom that will outlast you and the cooler. The braided tubes work great, but IMHO, the SS false bottom is an excellent solution that will also give you the option to fly sparge (if you're so inclined).

Brew on!

 

[PhelanKA7]

Would hot-dip galvanized washers leech toxins if they were used on the inside of the MLT? I can't find SS 5/8" fender OR flat washers anywhere.

 

[stbnj]

Just gathered all the stuff to make this! Looking forward to doing my first all grain batch next weekend. Thanks for the great instructions!

 

[camus]

Would hot-dip galvanized washers leech toxins if they were used on the inside of the MLT? I can't find SS 5/8" fender OR flat washers anywhere.

Yes, do not use galvanized. Seriously, if you can't find any SS I will pick you up some and send them to you. But by no means do you want to use galvanized.

 

[DrawTap88]

Yes, do not use galvanized. Seriously, if you can't find any SS I will pick you up some and send them to you. But by no means do you want to use galvanized.

Agreed. No way do you want galvanized metal touching your wort.

 

[AdamCanFly]

I've got a problem here. I built my Mash tun and it's all good to go with a brass valve and a false bottom. Now I have a third keggle that I want to use to build a herms system. Should I go with the keggle and sell my Cooler, or just upgrade my cooler to a 1/2" valve and use it?

 

[Areilius]

Great write up. Thank you for the parts list and suggestions. Anyone in the Portland vancouver area might be interested in contacting this guy. http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/spo/2436681417.html I am getting ready to build mine this week after being introduced to all grain by a friend of mine last week.
Thanks again.

 

[jimlin]

Is the dimension of all the parts different when converting an older Igloo 48 qt cooler? I bought all the parts from the original post of this thread (lots of 3/8" parts), the build-a-bolt kit with 4 SS 5/8" fender washers, etc. It seems like the whole contraption it going to be pretty loose. Then again, I only finger-tightened. The wall is relatively thin at the spigot hole too. Perhaps I should aim for a shorter brass nipple (maybe 1" rather than the 1.5")

Here's a quick iPhone vid I took to show the removed spigot versus the 3/8 brass...

 

[Cosper123]

Went to my local Fastenal shop and they had no 5/8 SS washer. All they had were 1/2 inch and 3/8...said they'd have to special order a 5/8. Guess I'll look on ebay or something, don't really want to purchase 10 of them elsewhere when I only need one.

 

[jimlin]

I found a 5/8 Create a bolt set at Home Depot. Includes 4 SS 5/8 washers. you can use the extras on the outside in place of the other fender washers

 

[Paymygasbill77]

This helped me out a tun(sorry about the pun)!
Thanks for the post.

 

[bigbeergeek]

So funny how much expense and detail goes into draining wort from insulated vessels... why not tubing, through a bung, throttled with a simple clamp or inline throttle? Ball valves and all that nonsense... the same results can be accomplished for about $12. Silliness, says I!

 

[chask31]

I decided to go with the bargain fittings and a rubbermaid 10 gallon. I wanted to go all stainless to avoid leaching. I also did not want to run around to ten stores to find all the necessary parts. I would rather spend that time brewing.

I just put together my tun. I know that if the coupling to the valve is too tight it can leak. I was wondering how loose it can be though. I have tightened mine but i can still spin the valve around somewhat easily. It does not seem to be leaking though. Is that good?

 

[mistercameron]

I decided to go with the bargain fittings and a rubbermaid 10 gallon. I wanted to go all stainless to avoid leaching. I also did not want to run around to ten stores to find all the necessary parts. I would rather spend that time brewing.

I just put together my tun. I know that if the coupling to the valve is too tight it can leak. I was wondering how loose it can be though. I have tightened mine but i can still spin the valve around somewhat easily. It does not seem to be leaking though. Is that good?

Totally normal.... So long as it doesn't leak

 

[VinceS77]

Thanks for the great instructions & parts list. A bit more expensive than I anticipated, but very easy assembly. My total came in at $86.04 at Lowes. I was able to find the SS 5/8" washers at a local Aubuchon Hardware.

- Rubbermaid 10 gallon round beverage cooler - $47.97
- all stainless steel ¼” hose clamps x 2 - $1.03
- brass square head plug (Watts A-737) - $1.94
- ½” x 12” (or larger) braided stainless steel supply hose - $12.97 (5 feet)
- 3/8” female barb adapter (Watts A-298) - $2.68
- 5/8” stainless steel fender washer (sometimes hard to find, but try Fastenal or read this thread if you are stuck) - $2.60 (4)
- 3/8” MIP x 1-1/2” brass nipple (Watts A-786) - $2.89
- seal from plastic spigot of cooler (shown below)
- Teflon tape (note: everything to the left of the tape in the picture above goes inside the cooler, and everything to the right goes outside)
- 5/8” O-ring (preferably heat resistant, if you can find one) - $1.97 (12)
- 3 x 5/8” fender washers - $1.40 (4)
- 3/8” threaded ball valve - $7.61
- 3/8” male barb adapter (Watts A-294) - $2.98

 

[mcl]

Thanks for the guide.
I decided to go all stainless. The below item list is in order from inside to outside. Please note, these prices don't include shipping.

Rubbermaid Cooler - $40 - Home Depot
Stainless Steel Mash Braid 1/2" NPT Female (already assembled) - 12.99 - Bargain Fittings
Stainless Steel Bushing ½” x 3/8” – $2.18 – plumbingsupply.com
Stainless Washer - $7 for 10 – Fastenal
Stainless Steel Nipple 3/8” x 1 1/2” – $2.24 – plumbingsupply.com
Silicone O-ring - .23 – Bargain Fittings
Stainless Washer - $0 Already in price list – Fastenal
Stainless Ball Valve 3/8” – 12.99 – Northern Brewer
Stainless 3/8” NPT x ½” Hose Barb – 6.50 – Bargain Fittings
Price $84.13

Plumbing Supply shipping = $8.95
Bargain Fittings = $5

 

[fishnuttoo]

+1 bargain fittings...

just revisted this thread, been awhile, all parts from bargain fittings still work. the guy was so patient and answered all my dumb questions, even after I purchased it. I did all the running around first, what a waste....

 

[stbnj]

Just found out I had a plastic supply line instead of stainless steel, it was definitely labeled as stainless when I got it at home depot. Well at least now I know why my run offs took forever to collect.

 

[Marshall081]

Just went to my local more beer and bought everything. I got 6 washers was hoping 3 would cover MT and 3 would cover HLT. When i got home and looked at my receipt.... $3.95 per washer $25 for 6 washers did not even know what to say to that one. Added to that unfortunate event I have a 12 mile to the gallon vehicle and more beer is 25 miles away each way. Its my own fault I guess though , I should have payed more attention. There is a fastenal 3 blocks from my house.

 

[Artemisag]

So he I am at the end. This is my first build and it is driving me insane. I have stuck to the plans and proceeded through the steps. Below is the photo of where I am stuck, I can not get this thing to pull together tightly like Flyguy. I currently have 3 stainless on the front and one stainless on the inside. Any suggestions? This is quickly

[/IMG]becoming a PITA build. Thanks for any help.

 

[jimlin]

I ended up returning most of the 3/8" parts and went with 1/2" instead given the diameter of the hole in the cooler once the spigot was removed. I also found a shorter brass nipple so i don't need as many fender washers to take up space.

The thing is, I couldn't find a stainless fender washer big enough for the 1/2" nipple. The 5/8" SS create-a-bolt set's washers inside diameter is too small to fit around the 1/2 nipple. Can I get away with just the plastic seal and rubber washer from the inside of the original spigot and use the reg fender washers (3/4") on the outside of the cooler to fill space and tighten?