Cheap compact wort pump

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LittlejohnBrew said:
I was wondering the same thing. Since you haven't gotten a reply I'll weigh in. I have not personally used BLC with my pumps, but I don't see how it would be an issue. The SDS (link below) states that it is corrosive to metals which is likely due to the alkalinity. However, I don't see any impact on the materials of these pumps especially given the short contact time.

If you want to be conservative though I'd wait until someone else with experience weighs in on this.

https://www.nationalchemicals.com/download/document/141
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I went ahead and built my beer line recirculation cleaning rig (pop bottle and tan pump) and it worked very well. I flushed with water so I did not leave the BLC solution in contact with anything permanently. I guess time will tell.
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
I have not personally used BLC with my pumps, but I don't see how it would be an issue.
rnorman57 said:
Does anyone have an idea if these tan pumps would be compatible with draft beer line cleaning solution?
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I haven't run BLC with my pump, but always run PBW after use, followed by water and Starsan rinse.
stamandster said:
Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.
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It is widely used in industry, scientific research, aerospace industry
Max circulating water temperature: 100°C
4.The pump is suitable for medium temperature 1 ℃ -60 ℃.

I'd be a little wary. There's no mention of food safe, NSF, and being "suitable" to 60°C.
 
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cbier60 said:
I haven't run BLC with my pump, but always run PBW after use, followed by water and Starsan rinse.

It is widely used in industry, scientific research, aerospace industry
Max circulating water temperature: 100°C
4.The pump is suitable for medium temperature 1 ℃ -60 ℃.

I'd be a little wary. There's no mention of food safe, NSF, and being "suitable" to 60°C.
Click to expand...

That's minus 60 c
 
A few people have mentioned about having the pump seize recirculating 170 or boiling liquids. Which is the problem I also had as I used my pump with my recirculating immersion chiller. Does anyone have similar issues or a idea on how to resolve it?
 
stamandster said:
Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.
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totally different material... the tan pumps are made of PPS which is an extremly hard stable plastic even at High temps thats often used for high temp food applications... the magnet is also sealed. I dont thing thats the case with that pond pump. most plastics like abs are only stable below 170 degrees..

ID be super leary of using that pump... it doesnt even state what its made of just says "plastic" LOL... recycled garbage bags or deck chairs maybe..

I use mine to recirculate post boil through my chiller both pre and during chilling and never an issue but I did sieze one running it near boiling temps for a long time which was dumb and totally not needed since anything above 170 sanitizes fine.

if you try pumping trub or hops these pumps will likely clog and get stuck...
 
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jfenton78 said:
A few people have mentioned about having the pump seize recirculating 170 or boiling liquids. Which is the problem I also had as I used my pump with my recirculating immersion chiller. Does anyone have similar issues or a idea on how to resolve it?
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how are you filtering the trub and hops out when doing this? if your not I would look at this as a contributing factor.. any one of the 4 I use can pump 170 degree liquid all day.
 
I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?
 
jfenton78 said:
I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?
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I use a 6" long piece of braided stainless line from a new toilet water line I cut up.. I attach this to my dip tube as a "last chance" filter in the bottom of my BK... the fact that is still plugs up with a lot of trub regardless on the 2 #300 stainless hop spiders I use and the recirculation I use to make sure the wort is clear going into the BK tells my its mainly protiens from the dissolved hops and other proteins that coagulate a bit maybe after I add the whirlflock? I dont chill back into my boil kettle and I believe if I did the braided line might plug up with much more proteins as I believe they are mainly formed in the chiller since you are using an immersion chiller you are trying to pump cold break back through the pump when recirculation and I believe this is causing your problems.

If your pump is seizing up at only 170 degrees then yeah I think some additional filtering may be needed... This is assuming your not experiencing cavitation.
 
jfenton78 said:
I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?
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Like Augie I am using a stainless steel braid hose however mine is 4' long to ensure it does not get clogged up and run the pump dry which will cause it to overheat and potentially seize. Attached is my setup, but I have yet to use it to know how it truly works. Hose cost me $8 on Amazon. Fittings for copper dip tube cost me $3 from Lowe's.

I also add all my hops with a paint strainer bag, but I have locked up a pump before using just this method. The jury is still out on if the pump seizure was due to particles or faulty manufacturing. I think a combo of paint strainer bag for hops and the braided hose will do the trick.
 

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LittlejohnBrew said:
Like Augie I am using a stainless steel braid hose however mine is 4' long to ensure it does not get clogged up and run the pump dry which will cause it to overheat and potentially seize. Attached is my setup, but I have yet to use it to know how it truly works. Hose cost me $8 on Amazon. Fittings for copper dip tube cost me $3 from Lowe's.

I also add all my hops with a paint strainer bag, but I have locked up a pump before using just this method. The jury is still out on if the pump seizure was due to particles or faulty manufacturing. I think a combo of paint strainer bag for hops and the braided hose will do the trick.
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Just a follow up on my setup. Overall I believe it does a good job of catching anything that will seize up the pump however even with 4' of hose it still gets clogged up towards the end of transferring wort through CFC to fermenter. At that point I have to stir or scrap the hose to prevent from losing pump suction.
 
Hi guys, first post!
After lurking and reading through this entire thread a couple weeks ago (yes, the whole thing), I decided try a couple cheap chinese pumps.
I just received 2 of these 24VDC pumps from eBay (one is just a spare): Eo56 pump
also at AliExpress: Eo56 (TK1226) pump
They claim to be food grade, I took it apart, and it looks simply and well built. It has a brushless sealed motor, 16 lpm (~4.3gpm) flow, capable of 6M of head, and male 1/2" npt ports (actually looks more like BSPP straight thread).

I will be doing my first AG batch this weekend in my single vessel keggle BIAB system. I'm going to attempt using this pump for both recirc. during mash, as well as for whirlpooling during immersion cooling. I will try to take some pictures, but either way will report the results. Thanks for all the guidance thus far guys, this is a really great community.
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Just a follow up on my setup. Overall I believe it does a good job of catching anything that will seize up the pump however even with 4' of hose it still gets clogged up towards the end of transferring wort through CFC to fermenter. At that point I have to stir or scrap the hose to prevent from losing pump suction.
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Just saw this. Are you using a hop spider? sounds like your which is likely why your experience is different than mine.. I only have an 8" piece of braid on my bk diptube to stop the little trub that makes it into the boil.
 
TravPlan said:
Hi guys, first post!
After lurking and reading through this entire thread a couple weeks ago (yes, the whole thing), I decided try a couple cheap chinese pumps.
I just received 2 of these 24VDC pumps from eBay (one is just a spare): Eo56 pump
also at AliExpress: Eo56 (TK1226) pump
They claim to be food grade, I took it apart, and it looks simply and well built. It has a brushless sealed motor, 16 lpm (~4.3gpm) flow, capable of 6M of head, and male 1/2" npt ports (actually looks more like BSPP straight thread).

I will be doing my first AG batch this weekend in my single vessel keggle BIAB system. I'm going to attempt using this pump for both recirc. during mash, as well as for whirlpooling during immersion cooling. I will try to take some pictures, but either way will report the results. Thanks for all the guidance thus far guys, this is a really great community.
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interesting, the last time I looked at those I messaged the seller they did not claim to be food safe. Please post pictures of the impeller and magnet assembly when you open one up.
 
augiedoggy said:
Just saw this. Are you using a hop spider? sounds like your which is likely why your experience is different than mine.. I only have an 8" piece of braid on my bk diptube to stop the little trub that makes it into the boil.
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I use a paint strainer bag for my hops. It's either not fine enough mesh or it's just hot break that clogs the braid. I've been doing 5 gallon batches instead of 10 gal lately with the same filter system and it hasn't been an issue with the lower volume and less trub
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
I use a paint strainer bag for my hops. It's either not fine enough mesh or it's just hot break that clogs the braid. I've been doing 5 gallon batches instead of 10 gal lately with the same filter system and it hasn't been an issue with the lower volume and less trub
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Do you chill in one pass to the fermenter or are you also getting cold break in the brew kettle?
 
augiedoggy said:
Do you chill in one pass to the fermenter or are you also getting cold break in the brew kettle?
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Been doing a lot of NEIPAs lately and cooling to 150ish for hop stand. That's probably contributing. Plan on doing a 5 gal batch of a little sumpin sumpin clone this weekend and will report back if there are any issues.

On another note. My PWM randomly quit working last night for this pump. I have the one in the link below. The switch does nothing. It is full power anytime plugged in. Trying to workout a replacement with the seller. Anyone else using these? I noticed the motors are brushless and the PWM is specified for brushed motors.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/111851538617
 
I am in the market for a stand alone sealed PWM to control my pumps that shipped yesterday.
Right now there will be now way to lace the PWM in the control box as it is a pre-built unit and I dont want to void the warranty.

In the end I need to come up with a mounting system for the pump, plate chiller, and PWM
 
MX1 said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-10-60V-...805933&hash=item1a24138ff7:g:pLcAAOSwLEtYgCjy

These are the 2 I am looking at right now
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I like the look of these and may consider one as a replacement. For my setup I could attach this externally to my controller box via screws. Since you don't want to void your warranty could you use industrial Velcro to attach to your controller if you have space? Probably not ideal but may work.

I also wired up my pump to the PWM using the plugs below. Also have power into the PWM using one of the plugs. Makes it easy to connect the pump and disconnect for storage.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122921964452
 
velcro is an option, but I think I will just make a base plate for it all.

would those work for 24v pumps? says 12v in the description
 
Base plate would look a lot neater for sure. When I click the link you posted the item it takes me to says in the title good for 10-60V. Description says 10A at 24v. These motors draw I think 1.8-2.0A.

Edit. Realized you are probably talking about the plugs duh. The wire appears to be 22 awg, but unfortunately i dont see any voltage rating on the insulation or plug. A bud of mine who is a PE electrical engineer seemed to think they would be fine for 24V. I haven't done a full brew day with them but no issues thus far
 
Max Current Rating：5A
* Max Power Rating：60W
* Transmission voltage：1V~38V
* Transmission voltage：1V~38V
 
MX1 said:
Max Current Rating：5A
* Max Power Rating：60W
* Transmission voltage：1V~38V
* Transmission voltage：1V~38V
Click to expand...

Good find. Only complaint with these is it took a while to get them delivered, but if you're fine waiting it is about 1/3 the price you would pay for with Amazon prime shipping.

Got my PWM back working. I'm an idiot and rewired it backwards when I installed the pigtails.
 

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augiedoggy said:
interesting, the last time I looked at those I messaged the seller they did not claim to be food safe. Please post pictures of the impeller and magnet assembly when you open one up.
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The seller has edited their ad, and it now has waaay less info on this pump. I was able to pull up the original ad for the pump from my order history-->
  • 100% Brand New
  • Dimensions: Approx 9cm x 5cm x 7cm (L x W x H,3.51x 1.95x 2.73inch )
  • Color: Black
  • Rated voltage: 24V DC.
  • Rated current: 1050mA.
  • Diameter of Outlet: 20.3mm
  • Diameter of Inlet: 20.3mm
  • Food-grade: Yes
  • Capacity: 960L/H
  • Pump head: 6M.
  • Noise: <=40dBA/0.5M.
  • Working temperature: 0℃ ~ +100℃
  • Service life: 20000 hours up.
  • Motor: DC brushless motor.
  • Pump: Centrifugal pump.
  • Waterproof Rate: IP68
  • Suitable for: Aquarium, solar-panel circulate system, fountain, electronic refrigerator, water heater etc.
  • This water pump can be amphibious.
  • Package Content:
  • 1 x Centrifugal Water Pump
I do take the above specs with a grain of salt, but the pump body does seem to be acetal/delrin or maybe glass-impregnated nylon. I did do a mash recirculation, ran the pump during the whole boil, and whirlpooling afterward. It seemed to work well the whole time, other than slight cavitation if the boil got too vigorous.
I will inspect the "used" pump, and compare it to the new pump disassembled. Ill take some pictures of the inside of the pump, impeller, armature and stator side by side and see if there is anything out of the norm.
 
TravPlan said:
The seller has edited their ad, and it now has waaay less info on this pump. I was able to pull up the original ad for the pump from my order history-->
  • 100% Brand New
  • Dimensions: Approx 9cm x 5cm x 7cm (L x W x H,3.51x 1.95x 2.73inch )
  • Color: Black
  • Rated voltage: 24V DC.
  • Rated current: 1050mA.
  • Diameter of Outlet: 20.3mm
  • Diameter of Inlet: 20.3mm
  • Food-grade: Yes
  • Capacity: 960L/H
  • Pump head: 6M.
  • Noise: <=40dBA/0.5M.
  • Working temperature: 0℃ ~ +100℃
  • Service life: 20000 hours up.
  • Motor: DC brushless motor.
  • Pump: Centrifugal pump.
  • Waterproof Rate: IP68
  • Suitable for: Aquarium, solar-panel circulate system, fountain, electronic refrigerator, water heater etc.
  • This water pump can be amphibious.
  • Package Content:
  • 1 x Centrifugal Water Pump
I do take the above specs with a grain of salt, but the pump body does seem to be acetal/delrin or maybe glass-impregnated nylon. I did do a mash recirculation, ran the pump during the whole boil, and whirlpooling afterward. It seemed to work well the whole time, other than slight cavitation if the boil got too vigorous.
I will inspect the "used" pump, and compare it to the new pump disassembled. Ill take some pictures of the inside of the pump, impeller, armature and stator side by side and see if there is anything out of the norm.
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This is the pump that Brau supply used to sell with their systems btw.
 
Pumps showed up yesterday
24v
20180629_171732.jpg


Anyone know what the name of this connector is so I can get it's mate

20180630_064043.jpg

Thanks
 
MX1 said:
mine are the 24v pumps, will those still work?
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Yes. 24V is still low voltage; these could probably handle 50 VDC with no issue. The more important rating is the current, which at 5A, is much more than the pump will ever pull. [Besides being a homebrewer, I'm an electrical engineer who designs similar equipment, not just some guy handing out "advice".]
 
LOL!!!!

Thanks, I am just a dumb-ass retired Army Cop that brews beers....all my advice should be ignored!!
 
MX1 said:
Thanks

Not keen on them, might cut them off and wire something else
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I wired a long cord with aviation connectors at my control panel end for mine.. I also used some of the connectors mentioned above for things and as mentioned they are used for all sorts of dc voltages including older laptop chargers and such.. As Cbier mentioned the current is the important factor and these pumps draw less than 2amps a piece.

The plug that comes with the pump is likely due to whatever oem purpose they were originally designed for which I believe was a drinking fountain or gas station capachino machines where the pump likely plugged right into the control board.
 
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Talk about cheap. The wife came home with a new coffee maker a few weeks ago. This retired our 1st generation Keurig. It was starting to act up.
I decided to pull it apart to check what type of pump was in there.
Works well to just circulate the hot water for my make shift HERMS coil during the mash. I get just under 1 liter per min. And this is with a 9vdc power supply. It may pump a little stronger with a 12vdc supply.


 

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