Cheap compact wort pump

[johns]

silverzero what size tubing did you use?

 

[mattd2]

I thought of that also, but the the inside diamater that they sell on barginfittings might not fit on my black pump with a 3/4 inch (or near to there) OD. I am using the proflow dynamics cam locks. How do you squeeze 1/2 inch tubing onto a 3/4 inch OD? Or maybe just get larger tubing?

What camlocks are you using? 3/4" OD of the threads sounds like 1/2" NPT/BSP. Most setups have a camlock screwed into the pump input/output, then a camlock with a hose tail (or threaded camlock with hosetail/elbow threaded into it) on the hose side.
Can you explain what you are doing?

 

[rhoop]

I dont fully understand the head height vs friction math, but if I needed consistent flow at 4' head, I could achieve this with 3/8 tubing vs 1/2 as there would be less mass to push up correct? Or would friction negate any gains?

 

[mattd2]

I dont fully understand the head height vs friction math, but if I needed consistent flow at 4' head, I could achieve this with 3/8 tubing vs 1/2 as there would be less mass to push up correct? Or would friction negate any gains?

The head pressure of the liquid is only proportional to the change in height:
Pressure = density (constant) x 9.81 (gravity constant) x height (variable). The higher you go the more pressure the pump must supply to get it there. Going to 3/8 tubing would make things worst as there is more resistance in smaller tube at a given flow - this would "rob" some of the pressure that is trying to get the liquid up high

 

[snaps10]

I thought of that also, but the the inside diamater that they sell on barginfittings might not fit on my black pump with a 3/4 inch (or near to there) OD. I am using the proflow dynamics cam locks. How do you squeeze 1/2 inch tubing onto a 3/4 inch OD? Or maybe just get larger tubing?

Take a Dremel and dull the threads on your camlocks then just stretch the hose over. It's not too hard. I've never even put clamps on mine and they hold perfectly. Or you can buy hose nipples, just make sure you get the 5/8 or you'll restrict the flow. Most of us just stretch the hose over.

 

[SilverZero]

Or just put a 1/2" hose barb on the threads. That's what I do.

 

[johns]

great. thats the info I was looking for

Thanks all

 

[snaps10]

Just note that 1/2" barb isn't 1/2" inside diameter.

 

[johns]

Just talked with wayne over at barginfittings.com and he said the same thing, only he also said that its possible to stretch it over a 7/8 fitting which is more than I need. Just placed an order for 5 feet!!

 

[Jersh]

I just pulled the trigger on one of these. I'm in the process of building a portable HERMS system and will be using this to recirculate hot liquor in my eHLT, and then also to move the hot liquor for fly sparging.

 

[tre9er]

I had been following this thread for the first hundred or so posts. There was talk about PWM, and other ways of controlling flow. I'm wondering, of those who actually have one of the tan Buy In Coins pumps, is there a consensus on the best way to control flow? I was just planning on a ball valve on output side, using this mostly for a CFC, so mainly only controlling flow if wort temp was too hot coming out full throttle. Will just using the valve be OK or are there any concerns?

 

[two_hearted]

I had been following this thread for the first hundred or so posts. There was talk about PWM, and other ways of controlling flow. I'm wondering, of those who actually have one of the tan Buy In Coins pumps, is there a consensus on the best way to control flow? I was just planning on a ball valve on output side, using this mostly for a CFC, so mainly only controlling flow if wort temp was too hot coming out full throttle. Will just using the valve be OK or are there any concerns?

I have the tan one from buyincoins and bought one of these from lowes

(APXFF1212S Size: 1/2" PEX x 1/2" FPT Female Swivel Valve)
Its on the output side and regulates the flow just fine for me to fly sparge. It fits the threads better than my npt fittings too. I think it would be fine for a CFC.

 

[tre9er]

Thanks. I ordered another 1/2" ball valve from BF, camlock fittings, etc. for this. Now I'm trying to figure out how most people are going from 1/2" to 3/8" from pump to CFC...Thinking of just putting a bit of 3/8" tubing on the CFC inlet then slipping the 1/2" silicone over that...OR getting a reducer. I'll figure something out.

 

[theCougfan97]

Has anyone tried using two of these (TAN) pumps on the same line to improve flow? If so can I just use this adapter and attach two pumps to it?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NTNGN0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I know embarrassingly little about electronics.

 

[alien]

Haven't tried it. I would say that power supply is OK for 1 pump. For $2 more you can get a 5A supply, I would go for that for 2 pumps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-1...wer-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-/360607030074

 

[theCougfan97]

Haven't tried it. I would say that power supply is OK for 1 pump. For $2 more you can get a 5A supply, I would go for that for 2 pumps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-12V-3A-5A-10A-15A-20A-30A-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-/360607030074

Excellent, thanks for the link. I have to ask how does the input power work? Do I need to purchase something in addition to make this work?

 

[johns]

nothing else is needed,,,just plug and play...to regulate the flow (if needed), use the ball valve, like brooks said (shawshank redemption) easey peasey japanesey.

I have the black one and I run it though a 20 foot CFC with no problems, Only difference is I use 1.6 amp power supply I found laying around somewhere, cut the ends off and attach it to the wires.

 

[theCougfan97]

nothing else is needed,,,just plug and play...to regulate the flow (if needed), use the ball valve, like brooks said (shawshank redemption) easey peasey japanesey.

I have the black one and I run it though a 20 foot CFC with no problems, Only difference is I use 1.6 amp power supply I found laying around somewhere, cut the ends off and attach it to the wires.

So there is a power cord, its just not displayed?

 

[johns]

I guess its everything pictured. I just found and old powersupply unit from an old labtop and it works perfectly. I just cut the ends off and attach it to the pump.

If you buy that its ok, If you want to find an old labtop PS unit, or even some cell phone chargers will work (or so its been posted here).

Requirements would be at least 1.2 amps. Less than this I think affects power output. 1.6 amps works well and someone on this thread also recommend this type of amperage. 2 or more amp i guess would also work, but I guess it affects the life of the pump. 20 USD is not alot, so I would not worry about it, relative to buying a march or a chugger pump. Like you, I have no background in any type of electronics, so for me to hook it up was really nice. I would not worry about electrictuion. 1.5 amps is nothing. I have been shocked with 220 volts and still alive to talk about it (the connection was not wet).

 

[ulsh72]

First, don't listen to Johns, he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Second, you need a power supply that matches the VOLTAGE (DC power supply) of the pump. The tan one's power requirements listed on ebay is "Rated voltage: 12V DC. Rated current: 0.8A."

You need to match the voltage and match or exceed the amperage. The motor pulls as much power as it needs, so even if the power supply is able to supply more than .8A, the pump will only draw .8A, without causing any problems.

For example, using a power supply rated at 12v, 1.2A would work just fine.

I guess its everything pictured. I just found and old powersupply unit from an old labtop and it works perfectly. I just cut the ends off and attach it to the pump.

If you buy that its ok, If you want to find an old labtop PS unit, or even some cell phone chargers will work (or so its been posted here).

Requirements would be at least 1.2 amps. Less than this I think affects power output. 1.6 amps works well and someone on this thread also recommend this type of amperage. 2 or more amp i guess would also work, but I guess it affects the life of the pump. 20 USD is not alot, so I would not worry about it, relative to buying a march or a chugger pump. Like you, I have no background in any type of electronics, so for me to hook it up was really nice. I would not worry about electrictuion. 1.5 amps is nothing. I have been shocked with 220 volts and still alive to talk about it (the connection was not wet).

 

[rhoop]

First, don't listen to Johns, he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Second, you need a power supply that matches the VOLTAGE (DC power supply) of the pump. The tan one's power requirements listed on ebay is "Rated voltage: 12V DC. Rated current: 0.8A."

You need to match the voltage and match or exceed the amperage. The motor pulls as much power as it needs, so even if the power supply is able to supply more than .8A, the pump will only draw .8A, without causing any problems.

For example, using a power supply rated at 12v, 1.2A would work just fine.

+1 to this!

I would add that finding a power supply that exceeds the amperage stated on the pump is best, the pump can draw more amps than it states, and having a power supply that is right at the rating can cause the supply or motor to fail. 1A or 1.2A on a .8 rated pump is more than enough wiggle room.

 

[alien]

That's right, when the pump starts up it can draw more power than it is rated for so it's best to leave a little overhead. I know people have been running 14W pumps off a 12V@2A power supply successfully.

 

[Rys06Tbss]

Plus I don't know what a labtop is but I know most laptop supplies are least 18v. That will fry the pump for sure.

 

[theCougfan97]

I am still left wondering if I can hook up 2 tan pumps into one 12V DC 5 amp power supply that would in turn plug into a regular outlet. (I bought the pumps and am really just trying to figure out the best way to power them both at the same time.) Good thing they take so long to get here, there is a lot to know

 

[Huff360]

I am still left wondering if I can hook up 2 tan pumps into one 12V DC 5 amp power supply that would in turn plug into a regular outlet. (I bought the pumps and am really just trying to figure out the best way to power them both at the same time.) Good thing they take so long to get here, there is a lot to know

Yes, two pumps on a 5 amp supply will be fine. Hook both black wires together and both red wires together, then connect to the power supply.

This is a parallel connection and will supply 12V to each pump as is needed.

 

[johns]

well just to chime in..........

All the info I recieved from and about this pump was from this thread and yes, I did read the whole thing, or youtube. I was not sure about the pump till I decided to take the plunge. Sure if you ask a milllion people when the world will end, I am sure you will get a million answers.

I think my pump is rated at 0.8 amps but i would have to check on that. The power supply is 12 volts (I think it was from an old labtop), and puts out 1.6 amps......It had one of those 2 socket holes at the end where I cut it off.

I just got done using it and I really like this pump. Have had zero issues with it. However other peoples pumps might vary as well as your millage.

Just trying to keep it simple as possible. Yea it might be a good idea to get a supply that is slightly over the pumps ratings. How much so is better left to the engineers. Honestly I have no idea how much amps the pumps can handle, but I also did not want to push it and buy one over 2.5 amps. All I know is I am happy with my pump and thats all that counts (for me).

A good way to check is to read the small print on the PU.

On And by the way it is a 12v pu. That I am sure of

Again my advice is to get the power supply listed on the link or do what I did, or do both. Check the rating of the power supply, splice into it, and wait for the other power supply to come from ebay. Yea I could buy one from ebay, but the PU I am using works like a charm. Maybe it is better to buy the one from ebay on second thought. Also, I THINK that you should be able to hook up to pumps with a 5 amp PU.

Sorry if I was not clear on my last post. Just my 2 cents.

 

[tre9er]

You want AMPS to be MORE than the pump draws, ALWAYS. This is like, capacity. You want a bigger boil kettle than the amount of wort you'll actually boil, right? The bigger the better to prevent any chance of boilovers, right? Same with AMPS.

Voltage is like food. You need to give it enough food, but not too much...like trying to eat 17 pizzas in one sitting won't end well...neither will giving more voltage than the pump is rated. The pump needs 12V. It can get by on less, but just like skipping a meal, you won't function well. Don't go over on voltage, only go under if you want the pump to run slower.

 

[funnycreature]

You want AMPS to be MORE than the pump draws, ALWAYS. This is like, capacity. You want a bigger boil kettle than the amount of wort you'll actually boil, right? The bigger the better to prevent any chance of boilovers, right? Same with AMPS.

Voltage is like food. You need to give it enough food, but not too much...like trying to eat 17 pizzas in one sitting won't end well...neither will giving more voltage than the pump is rated. The pump needs 12V. It can get by on less, but just like skipping a meal, you won't function well. Don't go over on voltage, only go under if you want the pump to run slower.

This is the best explanation of A and V that I've ever heard!

 

[carluchi]

' ..I would not worry about electrictuion. 1.5 amps is nothing. I have been shocked with 220 volts and still alive to talk about it (the connection was not wet) ...'

Got news for you, you can be killed with as little as 0.05 amps of current going through you. Voltage is not what gets you, its amps. Be very careful around any type of electrical connection.

 

[johns]

' ..I would not worry about electrictuion. 1.5 amps is nothing. I have been shocked with 220 volts and still alive to talk about it (the connection was not wet) ...'

Got news for you, you can be killed with as little as 0.05 amps of current going through you. Voltage is not what gets you, its amps. Be very careful around any type of electrical connection.

I think the USA is the only country that has 120v system. When I was shocked in other countries using 220v system I could tell it was stronger, but I imagine it was still less then the use of a stun gun (which I have never felt). In other countries I am not sure what the amps are, nor did I bother to ask, but I can only assume that it was at a safe level.

Good comment though, incase someone has an idea with doing a 220 or 440v system here in the USA. I would never try to hook up something like that unless I know what I am doing (which I dont).