I'm used to setting tappets on my motorcycle where .0005 makes a difference so I suppose I'm a bit sensitive with feelers.
The crusher works fine, I'm not arguing that. I'm only reporting my findings. Considering my available funds I have no regrets with my decision to go with cereal killer.
I had set mine to recommend settings, but the grain I had was inconsistent. I ended up adjusting it by my crush rather than feelers. I had to fight the (batch) sparge. I blame this on the grain, not the crusher because I had to over crush the larger grains. I'm considering building an adjustable shaker to deal with poor quality grain mixes. It's just too damn cheap to pass up.
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They are a completely different product now.... better crank handle, ball bearings instead of bushings and true rollers.... the early ones were trying to copy the other popular selling grain mill at the time with bushings and such...some of the rollers were very out of round back then too... I have one I ordered in decaember during a $99 free shipping sale and theres no name stamped in the wood base...I have only used it a few times but even by hand its worked great so far...and it does have ball bearings pressed into the aluminum from the inside.... I imagine I will have to oil these for long life and many dont think about the fact that the malt powder can be rough on bushings and bearings...Well, I made the mistake of keeping mine. I've run probably 40 batches thru it. The biggest problem I have is getting the idler roller to turn. It's a major source of frustration. I end up reaching underneath and giving it a spin with my fingers to get it started. The roller spins freely wo grain but fill the hopper with grain and engage the drill and only the driven roller turns. Reaching underneath and giving it a spin with my fingertips will get it turning for anywhere from a brief second to maybe a half a minute or so. I was ready to throw it up against the wall this weekend. The slop in the bushings has only gotten worse. Ive blown compressed air into the bushings in an attempt to clear them out and this helps sometimes. I've regapped the gap all over the map and .055 seems to be the point where if cracks the grain but doesn't turn it into flower. I notice a name and number branded into the bottom of the base so i called the poor guy Sunday morning to share my frustration only to find out he only makes the wood bases not the mill. He told me he no longer puts his name on them due to all the complaint calls he's received.
I really enjoy the time i spend brewing beer. It's my oasis... It's my time to do something i enjoy. This mill has been a source of frustration since day one. I thought it was due to my inexperience. I've booked 64 brew days to date so I think we can rule out the experience factor. My mill is truly a POS. Maybe the quality is better now? IDK, I've had mine for a few years. This last brew day was the worst. I actually have a blister on the end of my finger from trying to get the idler roller to spin by reaching underneath and spinning it with my finger tips. I'm done with it.
I will email the place I bought it and ask them if they want it back on trade for a different mill. if they do anything I'll report back.
My advice to anyone looking to buy one of these is talk to some one that has bought one recently and has run 5 or 10 batches thru it....
There you have it....
Happy brewing....
Well, I made the mistake of keeping mine. I've run probably 40 batches thru it. The biggest problem I have is getting the idler roller to turn. It's a major source of frustration. I end up reaching underneath and giving it a spin with my fingers to get it started. The roller spins freely wo grain but fill the hopper with grain and engage the drill and only the driven roller turns. Reaching underneath and giving it a spin with my fingertips will get it turning for anywhere from a brief second to maybe a half a minute or so. I was ready to throw it up against the wall this weekend. The slop in the bushings has only gotten worse. Ive blown compressed air into the bushings in an attempt to clear them out and this helps sometimes. I've regapped the gap all over the map and .055 seems to be the point where if cracks the grain but doesn't turn it into flower. I notice a name and number branded into the bottom of the base so i called the poor guy Sunday morning to share my frustration only to find out he only makes the wood bases not the mill. He told me he no longer puts his name on them due to all the complaint calls he's received.
I really enjoy the time i spend brewing beer. It's my oasis... It's my time to do something i enjoy. This mill has been a source of frustration since day one. I thought it was due to my inexperience. I've booked 64 brew days to date so I think we can rule out the experience factor. My mill is truly a POS. Maybe the quality is better now? IDK, I've had mine for a few years. This last brew day was the worst. I actually have a blister on the end of my finger from trying to get the idler roller to spin by reaching underneath and spinning it with my finger tips. I'm done with it.
I will email the place I bought it and ask them if they want it back on trade for a different mill. if they do anything I'll report back.
My advice to anyone looking to buy one of these is talk to some one that has bought one recently and has run 5 or 10 batches thru it....
There you have it....
Happy brewing....
Curious where did you buy yours that you got an old one with bushings instead of bearings in december?I just got mine back in December and I am having the exact same problem. This was the second time I have used it and frustrating for sure. When it does work it works well and I have a better crush at .35 then whatever my lhbs has theirs set to. Going to email them today and see what to do. I can imagine shipping it back will be expensive and should of just went with a better quality mill out the box the first time. Live and learn I guess.
ahh same place I got mine at the same time... I should hope you dont have the same sloppy loose bushing problem as stated by others since if yours is the same as mine you have ballbearings and no bushings. sticky rollers could be from contamination getting where is should go which could be a build issue. I have zero play in mine so far...Adventures in homebrewing is where I got mine. I didn't state which style I have because I don't know I just stated I am having the same problem with mine is all.
First time using it, good? seems a little too crushed?
yup go back and start reading this thread from the last post on page 8.... or check out this tear down thread with pics.... its old so there may have been more changes... its build quality in many ways is actually superior in design to the barley crusher (uses bushings) which will upset some people for sure since the latter is an American made product and these are made in china... Oh well... stereotypes are not always true..Interesting.... If they went from brass bushings to bearings then that would be a major improvement. I took a close look at mine and the bushings were worn badly. The drive roller bushings were actually elongated horizontally.... probably due to the side loading caused by the grain passing between the rollers.
I contacted Adventures in Homebrewing where I bought mine and Jason said send it back. He also told me they had not changed the design? But if bearings are used then there has been a change?
Anyway, I have to give Adventures in Homebrewing credit for allowing me to send it back. They said they will repair or replace. We'll see what comes of it. I will post the outcome.
So I just sent the mill back and was able to squeeze it (just barely) into the smallest flat rate USPS priority box. The box was actually deformed slightly by the bulk of the mill but i rapped and re rapped it in clear packing tape. There was no room for any packing in the box but I figured it was pretty much trashed already. I just wanted to get it back in their hands. Shipping was $6.
I have to admit I haven’t really followed this tread. I am surprised to read of bearings being used instead of the brass bushings. I think if that's the case then that was a major improvement and as long as the bearing bores are size correctly so the bearing spin freely without binding then this mill has potential. I would think the only other concern would be the that the roller knurling is aggressive enough to pull the grain thru and turn the free roller.
It's frustrating as H*LL to have the hopper full of grain only to realize the free roller isnt spinning.
I'll post what I hear back from Adventures in Homebrewing.
Happy Milling!
You know its adjustable right?
Looks fine to me...
My efficiency went down to 64... From 70. Think I might have had a slight stuck sparge. The water pooled on top a little bit in the end of the runnings. I hit all my temps too. Oh well it will still be beer in the end. I might go back to running the batch sparge out slow too. I tried it fast this time to see what would happen.
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my crush is a lot finer than your pics and never had a stuck sparge....and I recirculate with a herms setup... I use doubled up screens though... and the inner screen tube is finer than the outer one to double filter...I get anywhere for 75-85% on average so far on last 7 brews.
hm, maybe it was a mix of factors... I'm going to back it off slightly though and see if that helps on the next run. I just have to stick with that works and when I start messing with things like running fast or slow then it screws up my whole system ha...
yes speed of flow has a large impact.... in case you didnt know also when starting the pump be sure to restrict the flow before turning the pump on. Then slowly increase speed.
the type of false bottom or bazooka tube will have the biggest effect here as you probably already know.No pump I batch, couple guys on here just open the valve and let it go... I alway just open a little and let it drain slowly. Tried the open and let it rip, going back to slow.
the type of false bottom or bazooka tube will have the biggest effect here as you probably already know.
sorry
I got a stuck sparge (toilet screen in a cooler
It may be jargon, but could someone explain what is a
"toilet screen in a cooler"
so I can scrub this unfortunate image out of my brain?
actually the ideal setup would be to put the water supply line inside of the bazooka tube as a double filter...I use a fine copper mesh tube inside of the bazooka tube and I have never had even the slightest amount of a stuck sparge in 6 brews...So i use a water supply line(not toilet screen). All it is is a stainless braided outer sheath. Crimp one end and it works better than the bazooka screen IMO. I just goto a thrift store and buy the line for .50 cents. Much cheaper that way.
For the post about sparging. I have tried it several ways and the brewery next door to me told me to slow it down as much as possible. Now a 10g batch takes 75 mins to collect enough wort and ive seen my numbers go up.
I just ordered a Cereal Killer mill. Hope i dont have any problems.
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