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Carbonating In Bottles.

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Figgy15

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Joined
Dec 28, 2013
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Location
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Hello all. So I'm still fairly
New to brewing but have about 4 batches under my belt. Biggest issue I've been facing is the carbonating process. I use 12-13 1 litter ez-cap bottles and left with about 6-10 12 oz bottles. As many of you already know carbonating using bottles is very very inconsistent. Every bottle is different. One more carbonated then the other. Pisses me off lol. Any advice? I am saving up for a keg setup, but for now stuck with bottles.


ABQ Newbie Brewer
 
Are you priming in the bottling bucket or in individual bottles? I add my priming sugar solution to the bucket, then rack on top, then bottle. I get pretty consistent results.
 
After racking the beer into the bottling bucket (with the sugar obviously), I stick the racking cane right in the bottling bucket and give it a slow stir for a bit. Every few bottles, I give it another couple of stirs. I find that this helps minimize the risk of batches with overcarbed bottles on one end of the case, and nearly flat ones on the other.
 
I also add the priming sugar to the bottom of the bottling bucket, and then rack the beer into the bucket. I'll snake the hose around the bottom of the bucket so that as the beer flows in it will gently swirl the beer and priming sugar together. I've always gotten consistent results that way.
 
I have had great results by boiling the priming sugar with 2 cups of water. Let it cool, then I put that in the bottom of the bucket and rack on top. I think it mixes better if it is already in solution.
 
Sounds like what I've been doing. I add the sugar solution first then siphon the beer on it. After it's done, i stir the beer very slowly in a figure 8 so to make sure it is mixed perfectly. But still getting inconsistent results.


ABQ Newbie Brewer
 
One of the best things I've done lately to improve several things in my total brewing process is to get a decent long handle stainless steel spoon. It moves so much more liquid so much faster making all mixing steps so much easier and efficient. Mixing priming sugar for bottling, stirring the kettle for chilling, etc. Had been using a plastic spoon and I thought it was doing a good job, but not after I got the new stainless one. Six bucks at a restaurant supply store, single best upgrade of brewing equipment in a year!
 
One of the best things I've done lately to improve several things in my total brewing process is to get a decent long handle stainless steel spoon. It moves so much more liquid so much faster making all mixing steps so much easiest and efficient. Mixing priming sugar for bottling, stirring the kettle for chilling, etc. Had been using a plastic spoon and I thought it was doing a good job, but not after I got the new stainless one. Six bucks at a restaurant supply store, single best upgrade of brewing equipment in a year!


Interesting but why would stirring with a stainless steel spoon be make a difference. I have been using a plastic spoon.


ABQ Newbie Brewer
 
It never flexes at all, I move it across the bottom of the pot and kinda flick it upwards to really get the liquid moving. I got it because the plastic one was getting pretty scratched up and I was worried about sanitizing issues. I never thought it would have made such a difference mixing and cooling.
 
I make a priming solution boiling the sugar in 2 cups of water. I let it cool a bit. I start my racking into the bottling bucket with the end of the hose against the side of my bucket. This creates a swirl type motion in the beer as it racks. I add the priming solution once there's about a gallon of beer racked. It seems to keep the priming syrup from sticking to the bottom of the bucket, and the swirl seems to distribute the sugar.

It may or may not make a difference, but it seems to work on the few times I bottle.
 
be careful with a stainless spoon it can stratch the piss outta your bucket... on another note i just broke my plastic spoon. fk
 
Everyone's been focusing on your priming, but it seems like you're doing what a lot of us who get consistent carbonation do. Let's talk bottles -

You say you're using EZ cap - glass swing top, yes? When was the last time you replaced the rubber seals on them? Also, I find that they need to be seated just right to maintain a good seal - might be the problem. Also, you mentioned some 12 ounce bottles - do you cap those? If so, how's the carb on those?

:mug:
 
Everyone's been focusing on your priming, but it seems like you're doing what a lot of us who get consistent carbonation do. Let's talk bottles -

You say you're using EZ cap - glass swing top, yes? When was the last time you replaced the rubber seals on them? Also, I find that they need to be seated just right to maintain a good seal - might be the problem. Also, you mentioned some 12 ounce bottles - do you cap those? If so, how's the carb on those?

:mug:


Good thought.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I'm also using swing tops of 1/2 liter.
I did the average glucose/water per gallon doze but the carbonation is very poor.

I will be bottling a Belgian dark beer and need lots of carbonation there. Should I double the sugars to get it well carbonated ? Or maybe stir some of that yeast cake into a priming bucket ?

How to get a very high carbonation without pushing the limits of bottle resistance ?
 
I'm also using swing tops of 1/2 liter.
I did the average glucose/water per gallon doze but the carbonation is very poor.

I will be bottling a Belgian dark beer and need lots of carbonation there. Should I double the sugars to get it well carbonated ? Or maybe stir some of that yeast cake into a priming bucket ?

How to get a very high carbonation without pushing the limits of bottle resistance ?


Get stronger bottles. There is a chart somewhere that shows how many volumes is safe for each type. Maybe northernbrewer's site? Can't remember for sure.
 
I've been noticing a lot of confusion about bottle carbing, and I have some of my own as a new brewer. Usually when this discussion is brought up, no one asks about how long the bottles have been left to carb, but when the question is asked, the answer is something like 1 or 2 weeks. And/or refrigeration was only done for a few hours.

Bottle carbing should be done over 3 or 4 weeks (at ~65-70F), and the bottles should be refrigerated for a minimum of overnight, preferably 24-48 hours. If you have left your bottles to carb for 4 weeks and refrigerated for 48 hours and your carbonation is still uneven across bottles, then something's wrong with your methods. Otherwise, it might just be that you need to let it go for a longer period of time.
 
Beer that has been properly primed and stored at 65-70F for two weeks and then refrigerated should be completely carbonated. +1 to chilling it overnight or longer since cold liquid absorbs co2 better than a warm liquid. And mixing the priming sugar in pasteurized hot water before adding it to the bottling bucket is the best procedure as it will distribute evenly in the beer. (Priming drops are another method but I have no experience with them so will leave that to others to address.)

That being said, the times I have had trouble with under-carbonation came from only one of two sources: poorly sealed bottles or errors in my priming calculations.

Over-carbonation can be a bit more vexing to track down.
 
Everyone's been focusing on your priming, but it seems like you're doing what a lot of us who get consistent carbonation do. Let's talk bottles -

You say you're using EZ cap - glass swing top, yes? When was the last time you replaced the rubber seals on them? Also, I find that they need to be seated just right to maintain a good seal - might be the problem. Also, you mentioned some 12 ounce bottles - do you cap those? If so, how's the carb on those?

:mug:


It's funny u bring that up cause the 12oz bottles that i do cap come out just fine. I've only used the ez cap bottles to carbonate 2 batches. Could it be that I already need to replace the rubber caps?


ABQ Newbie Brewer
 
It's funny u bring that up cause the 12oz bottles that i do cap come out just fine. I've only used the ez cap bottles to carbonate 2 batches. Could it be that I already need to replace the rubber caps?

If the only difference between the good beer and the less-than-good beer is the bottle they were put in I can just about guarantee you that the bottles are the problem.

Are you using the swing-tops sold by a lhbs or other brewery supplier? I tried using some swing-tops I bought from IKEA and got 6 bottles of almost completely flat beer. Those bottles now have other uses around our house but not for beer.

I also was very disappointed with the short 12 oz. brown bottles like those used for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Alaskan Amber, etc. Somehow their tops aren't exactly the same size as the caps we get through our normal suppliers so they don't seal consistently right. As a result, another case of under-carbonated beer.

Hope this helps.
 
Not an expert here, but I do seem to get consistent bottle carbing. Consistent headspace? I always use the same size bottle, and leave the same headspace, too, which is important. I usually have a partial last bottle at the end of bottling, and that one won't carb up as well, so that should say something. Using a bottling wand?

Scott


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 

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