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Can you Brew It recipe for Avery Maharaja

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EricCSU

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All recipes are (unless otherwise specified): 6 gallons post-boil, 70% efficiency, Morey for color, 15% evaporation, 7.27 gallons preboil, Rager IBU, and most hops are in grams not ounces. Most, if not all recipes are primary only (no secondary).

If you brew this, please reply with your results for discussion.

OG 1085
FG 1010-1012
IBUs 145
SRM 14.1

6.91kg 2-row 85.2%
250g Crystal 120 3.1%
250g Victory 3.1%
700g light DME 8.6%

Boil for 60min

34g Columbus 15%AA @ 60'
34g Columbus @ 30'
68g Simcoe (?AA) @ 15'
68g Centennial 10.5% @ 15'
136g Simcoe Dry hop
68g Centennial DH
68g Chinook DH

Wyeast 1056

Pitch at 67F, raise to 70F after a few days

Mash at 147F

Carbonate to 2.5-2.55 volumes CO2

Chad added 8g gypsum to the mash and 8g gypsum to the boil kettle and used tap water.

Discussion notes:
Jamil reported that Glacier is a good substitute for Simcoe. He warned against making too many other hop substitutions.
 

KyleWolf

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While I haven't brewed this exact clone. I did one basically the same (added in more 2row instead of DME/LME) and it really is dead on. Got the recipe from avery a year ago. what a freakin delicious beer.

got some simcoe in the other day. I do think it is time to put this beer back on the "to-do" list.

There grain bill is now my standard for my IPAs and APAs. Except I use aromatic over victory.

yum yum yum
 

skeezerpleezer

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Great beer, and I will do it soon. But i must ask-What is the point of the ~1lb of dme even in there for? Doesn't make much sense in an AG recipe. May as well do 2row row
 
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EricCSU

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skeezerpleezer said:
Great beer, and I will do it soon. But i must ask-What is the point of the ~1lb of dme even in there for? Doesn't make much sense in an AG recipe. May as well do 2row row
There is only so much sugar that Avery can extract from their MLT. Adding DME allows them to increase the gravity in the kettle. They are already losing a ton of beer due to hop mass in the kettle and in the fermenter.

Eric
 

KyleWolf

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I do wonder if they do a "hop press" to minimize wort loss during the boil.
 

skeezerpleezer

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Ok, so in a small system (homebrew) there isno added value then? I gotta do this, my bar just ran out of the Maharaja and I need more!
 

Zen_Brew

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I tried to listen to this episode off the archives, but the link was bad and it takes you to an episode a week older. :(
 

samc

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My scribbled notes show AA's as

Col 13.9
Sim 12
Cent 8

Am I wrong?
 

skibb

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Something I don't get - OG: 1.085 with a terminal of 1.010 isn't even 10% abv. This beer is posted at 10.3% on BA and 10.24% on their website. Am I missing something?
 

Strave19

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My latest bottle says: 10.54% abv, OG: 1.090, IBU: 102

According to beersmith that puts the FG at 1.009 - 1.010 for this most recent batch

Such a delicious beer. I'm going to tweak this recipe a bit (No DME, a few hop subs and changes - probably split the 15min addition into a 15 and a 1min or something) and put it on the list for my next IIPA. :mug:

EDIT: Jeez thats a huge dryhop! Maybe I wont mess with the 15min addition!
 

KyleWolf

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I concur with Strave19. The recipe I was given and what the bottles say are OG of 1.090 and FG of 1.010.
 

Rhoobarb

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Keep in mind theirs is very likely a lab tested example brewed on a large system at probably higher efficiency. Anything you get in BeerSmith, Promash, etc., will vary.
 
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EricCSU

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My best guess for the difference in OG is that the brewer gave the right amounts but has a higher efficiency. Also, I would guess that Chad has a higher efficiency than the standard too.

80% efficiency gives 1090 and 75% gives 1085. 80% efficiency seems reasonable for a brewery system and I get 75% on my batch sparge system.

A difference of 80 gravity points between original and final (1090-1080) would make approximately 10.4%abv.

I just listened to it again and the recipe listed is correct.

Personally, I would just adjust for your particular system and go from there.

Eric
 

brybarrett

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Glacier is a good substitute for Simcoe? Can anyone confirm this?
 

Strave19

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I really don't think that there is a "good" substitute for simcoe at this point. Glacier doesn't seem like a good fit as its supposedly more earthy/floral/citrus (citrus willamette?) and less citrus/pine/dank than simcoe. Maybe a glacier/chinook/centennial? mix or something would get closer... I'm really not sure. Basically you're not going to get the same profile as simcoe without simcoe, just use what you have on hand that go well together for you.
 

ohso

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Holy hops Batman! 1# 1 oz is a **** ton of hops, but for this big of a beer it makes sense. Good thing simcoe is available again. Brewing it up on monday with some free wlp099 that was out of date at the LHBS that I work... hope the yeast is still viable. Yeast looked normal to me, they look crazy when bad lol.
 

tdogg

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this is an awesome beer. any idea what the turn-around-time is on this recipe? does it need to age, or drink as soon as the dry hop is done?
 

dignifiedb

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Would you mash the recipe listed at the start of the thread for 60 minutes or 75? Beersmith is saying 75. I've only done 60 minute mashes before, but, then again, I've never brewed an imperial IPA.
 

cpz28

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In my experience, glacier is nothing like simcoe. Like Strave said, I don't think there is a good direct substitute. If I were trying to mimic it, I'd try a blend of crystal and amarillo.
 

eanmcnulty

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Would you mash the recipe listed at the start of the thread for 60 minutes or 75? Beersmith is saying 75. I've only done 60 minute mashes before, but, then again, I've never brewed an imperial IPA.
I am also interested in opinions on mash time. 147F is low. Should we extend the mash time?
 

tdogg

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I am also interested in opinions on mash time. 147F is low. Should we extend the mash time?
i dont have a ton of experience here, but i have read somewhere that lower mash temps usually need longer mash times. thats why some big a$$ beers have 90 min mashes or longer to convert ALL the starches.
 

tdogg

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this is an awesome beer. any idea what the turn-around-time is on this recipe? does it need to age, or drink as soon as the dry hop is done?
im also curious about this. im guessing since there is such a massive dry hop, you wont want to wait too long to drink it. if you wait several months, it wont have much aroma and be more like a hoppy barleywine
 

CBMbrewer

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Avery's website lists the recipe with only hop additions at 60, 30, 0 and dryhop. Why the change here?
 

skibb

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It's a double IPA - why would you want to age it?!?! You drink these suckers as fresh as you can. Soon as the dry hop is out - carb it up and smash.

Avery's website lists the recipe with only hop additions at 60, 30, 0 and dryhop. Why the change here?
Commercial brewer's do a whirlpool at the end of their boil - usually 15 sometimes 30 minutes and then they rest for 15 or so minutes before sending the beer through to the plate chiller. So Avery does a 0 minute addition as stated, but since homebrewers (usually) don't whirlpool and just start chilling the beer immediately after flameout, the 15 minute time reflects how you would best mimic the commercial hop character you get from a flameout/whirlpool addition.
 
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