Can someone make me a wiring diagram or know where to find examples of any of this?

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sethhobrin

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I need wiring diagrams for 3 seperate control boxes which I picked up at Auberins. 1 is complex and the other two are simple. If anyone has suggestions on where to find a switch that would suite this purpose that I can mount in my control boxes? I have all of the rest of the parts other than wiring and switches unless I am missing anything. I am now trying to plan out how to wire everything together while building my new brew stand. I really need some input as electrical work is not something I have a lot of experience with.

I will have 3 seperate circuits powering the brew stand.. 2 x 120V/20A and 1 x 240V/40A.

AUBERINS CONTROL BOX 1(C1) - 120V/20A standard 3 Prong Plug
USED FOR MLT with RIMS tube and PUMP.
-2352 PID used to control RIMS tube 2000 Watt element using manual mode(be able to adjust voltage to element like rheostat) Also connected to RTD at output of Rims tube for Automatic control by PID(i want to be able to do both manual and auto)
-40A SSR
-40A SSR Heatsink
-March Pump
-2 Way Switch for March Pump
-2 Way Kill switch for element in Rims Tube

AUBERINS CONTROL BOX 2(C2) - 120V/20A Standard 3 Prong- max temp of HLT 175F
USED FOR HLT ELEMENT for SPARGE WATER
-2352 PID used to control 2000 Watt element in HLT, also connected to RTD in HLT, used for manual rheostat control and auto set of element
-2 way kill switch for element
-40A SSR
-40A heatsink for SSR

AUBERINS CONTROL BOX 3(C3) - 240V/30A Appliance Plug
USED FOR BOIL KETTLE ELEMENT
-2352 PID used to control 5500watt element in Boiling Kettle, also connected to RTD in Boiling Kettle, used for manual rheostat control of element
-2 way kill switch for element
-40A SSR
-40A heatsink for SSR

Each control box will be mounted under each tier.

Photo1.jpg
 
I need wiring diagrams for 3 seperate control boxes which I picked up at Auberins. 1 is complex and the other two are simple. If anyone has suggestions on where to find a switch that would suite this purpose that I can mount in my control boxes? I have all of the rest of the parts other than wiring and switches unless I am missing anything. I am now trying to plan out how to wire everything together while building my new brew stand. I really need some input as electrical work is not something I have a lot of experience with.

I will have 3 seperate circuits powering the brew stand.. 2 x 120V and 1 x 240V.

CONTROL BOX 1 - 120V 3 Prong
-2362 PID just used to display temperature off an RTD at output of MLT.
-2352 PID used to control RIMS tube 2000 Watt element using manual mode(be able to adjust voltage to element like rheostat) Also connected to RTD at output of Rims tube for Automatic control by PID(i want to be able to do both manual and auto)
-40A SSR
-40A SSR Heatsink
-March Pump
-2 Way Switch for March Pump
-2 Way Kill switch for element in Rims Tube

CONTROL BOX 2 - 120V 3 Prong- max temp of HLT 175F
-2352 PID used to control 2000 Watt element in HLT, also connected to RTD in HLT
-2 way kill switch for element

CONTROL BOX 3 - 240V Appliance Plug
-2352 PID used to control 5500watt element in Boiling Kettle, also connected to RTD in Boiling Kettle
-2 way kill switch for element

I only see one SSR in the first control box. Are you planning one SSR for each PID/element?
 
I only see one SSR in the first control box. Are you planning one SSR for each PID/element?

Yes sorry that was a typo. There will be a 40A SSR/40A heatsink in all 3 control boxes. Even the 120v boxes(i figure the 40A equipment will last longer on a 20A/120v circuit.

I changed my mind to make this simpler. The first control box will only have 1 PID. I edited the original post. If anyone could help me with wiring diagrams for these control box I would be very grateful! I'm sure they would come in handy for others as well.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer!
 
sethhobrin,

I'm having a little difficulty wrapping my mind around your planned controller set up.

What is your power feed to the brew area? How many amps available on the 240V circuit? Why 3 separate control boxes? What is your plan for GFCI circuit protection?
Do you intend to use switches to control the elements or will you be using contactors?
What about the switched - will you be using illuminated switches?

P-J
 
sethhobrin,

I'm having a little difficulty wrapping my mind around your planned controller set up.

What is your power feed to the brew area? How many amps available on the 240V circuit? Why 3 separate control boxes? What is your plan for GFCI circuit protection?
Do you intend to use switches to control the elements or will you be using contactors?
What about the switched - will you be using illuminated switches?

P-J


I already have 2 seperate 120v/20A circuits with standard GFCI power plugs next to the brew stand.

I need to add a new breaker in my box for 240v and run a power cable over to the brew stand and an outlet for boiling. I haven't done that yet and I am still researching what parts I need for that. Its about 10 feet from my main breaker so it shouldn't be too difficult. My dad offered to help with that installation. said its not big deal. I can probably do either 30A or 40A for this since it is a new run. I was thinking i would only need 30A since it is only powering 1 5500watt element for the Boil Kettle.

My home is 5 years old so I have 200 service.

I understand it is more expensive to do 3 control boxes but i figured it was probably less complex to wire each box/tier seperately and the control boxes are small(i went with the 1/16 DIN auberin's black control boxes). 1 Control box per tier(BK,HLT,MLT) Plus I have all the parts gathered already listed above.

As far as switches or contactors are concerned I am not sure what I need for this. All I know at this point is that I would like a manual 2 way switch I can throw on each control box to kill power to the element in each control box in case of emergency or for safety. I would also like a second switch I can throw in control box 1 to control the pump. If there is a recommended way of going about this please let me know. otherwise the PID in each control box will control the elements for each tier. I don't care about illuminated switches and haven't bought any switches or contactors or anything yet as I am not sure what is needed for that part of it. Also if this is just overkill let me know. At minimum i need to be able to turn my pump on and off out of control box 1. I am OK with just unplugging everything at the end of brewing.

Think of each control box as a stand alone solution to power each tier. 1 Control box for each tier.

Does that help?

My stand is wooden 3 tier. I am using 10 gallon blickmann boilermakers for all 3 kettles. the BK and HLT will have elements built in and the MLT will have a RIMS tube from brewershardware.
 
uploaded a crude drawing I just did on my lunch break. Hopefully that will help visualize what I am trying to accomplish.
 
Do you have a version of this in 240V/30A for just a single 5500w element with switches for power to the PID/ELEMENT and an ESTOP? No pump. This is for Control Box 3.

I think I can figure out control box 2 by looking at the other diagram and just removing the pump.
 
Would I be able to boil 6.5-8 gallons with a 2000 watt element on 120v/20A?

I see a lot of other people doing 240 and 5000 watt elements for the boil kettle but many of them are doing larger batches.

Or is a dedicated 120v/20A 2000 watt element just not enough for a good boil even with ONLY 5 gallon batches.

EDIT: after more reading seems like answer is NO. Must use 240/30amp with a 3500 watt element or higher.

Sorry for all the posts. As I think of things I'm posting them here. This will be my build thread for my system. Will eventually post pics as things start coming together. Hoping to have this completed in the next 45-60 days.
 
PJ called me up and we had an awesome design discussion on my build. He supplied me with a fantastic wiring diagram and suggested the use of a spa panel for its price/convenience and GFCI.

Once I get all the parts gathered and start the build I'll circle back and update everyone here with pics and updates.

Here is the wiring diagram for anyone interested. Clicking on the image will open up a large printable version.

 
PJ called me up and we had an awesome design discussion on my build. He supplied me with a fantastic wiring diagram and suggested the use of a spa panel for its price/convenience and GFCI.

Once I get all the parts gathered and start the build I'll circle back and update everyone here with pics and updates.

Here is the wiring diagram for anyone interested. Clicking on the image will open up a large printable version.
Let's stay in touch. I'm really interested in your build. I think you will end up with an awesome design.

BTW, I'd be more than happy to mod the diagram to fit any special needs that you might want.

I already sent you my Excel spread sheet with parts sources. You can change quantities and items on it to fit your specific inventory and needs.

Wishing you the best. I'm very pleased that I could help you.

P-J
 
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