Calling all Sanke Keg Fermenters

[brewtodrinktobrew]

Hey Y'all,

I am not trying to re-invent the wheel, although most of my brew rig is completely re-invented technology. I have been wondering what people use for connectors on the racking cane on their Sanke Kegs, specifically the NorCal Snake Cross Kits. I would like it to be as hassle free as possible.

I am thinking a quick disconnect of sorts to swap from a hose to a pump(to recirculate cleaner and sanitizer), a party tap (for gravity readings) and a jumper hose (to pressure transfer to corny kegs).

Originally, my thought was a cam-lock fitting and cam-locks on the 3 accessory hoses. This may be my best option or cheapest. The other option would be a Corny ball lock post, but I feel I would have significant flow loss during the re-circulation cleaning cycle with a ball lock and posts are kinda pricy.

I have plenty of Cam-locks around so I will probably attempt this route.

Please Share what y'all use for your rigs.

-Ben

 

[brewtodrinktobrew]

Hey Y'all,

So I came up with a design. I found these cool sample ports on Amazon, they are SS and 1/2" MPT. I put one directly on the Tee on the end of the racking cane. This will be a sample port while fermenting. The other is going on a female cam lock fitting, when it arrives later today. It is removable so I can take it off during the cleaning cycle or when transferring wort to the fermenter then re-install when racking to a keg or transferring star-san out of the fermenter.

I think this answers all the requirements I needed it too.
Let me know your thoughts.

 

[Golddiggie]

Racking cane?? We don't need no stinking racking cane!
I have caps on the kegmenters that allow me to use a corny keg dip tube to extract the finished beer. Trimmed down to leave the yeast cake behind. The original kegs I converted have gas ball lock posts installed in the tops, where the caps have a thermowell plus the liquid out post. The new version includes both fittings and the option for a racking cane. The posts are spaced so you can use either plastic or stainless QDs (or a combination of both) without issue. I did the newer version because I wanted to not need to drill into the kegs and get the bases welded in. Once I'm done with the current piece on my milling machine, I'll be setting up to make holes in the 2" TC caps to make more of these.

Before I switched to [2] conical fermenters (plan for the majority moving forward) I would put a spunding valve on the gas post and have the liquid dip tube installed from the start. Made things a LOT easier at the end since I could simply connect up a CO2 source to push the beer into the prepared serving/carbonating keg and not need to do anything else. The setup is also very low profile. Requiring just a few inches of space above the keg for the fittings.

Do what works for you, but that setup looks like something from Rube Goldberg.

 

[brewtodrinktobrew]

Golddiggie,

LMAO! You should see my brew rig if you think this looks like a Rube Goldberg Machine. My buddy that brews with me said my set up is like an Escape Room, he has no idea how to do use it!!

Your design seems very similar to the NorCal ultimate cross kit I got. I don’t have a milling machine or a Tig welder so this answered my needs the best as it could, I will say it’s pretty busy looking, lol. Like I said that’s kind of my style!!! It will do all the same things yours does it sounds like yours is just a lot cleaner looking. I am going to be using a spunding valve as well, waiting on the Amazon guy!!!

I have had the Spike CF10 in my cart more times than I can count. My issue with it was the additional cost for temp control(build or bought glycol chiller. Also, I don’t have a fixed brewing area. I brew on my patio and store everything in my shed. Fermentation was done in the house prior to this keg thing, but I added a temp controller and heater to the shed fridge so I can just put the keg in there now.

Do you happen to have a photo of your Sanke 2” TC caps you use?

Cheers!

 

[Golddiggie]

Latest version pictures.


I don't TIG weld (I do have a MIG welder) but I have a friend that does and works for beer.

Next set will have the fittings sitting flush with the cap top. I just need to be able to set up the rotary table (with 3 jaw chuck) on the mill table in order to start making the holes in the caps. Then bring everything over to my welding friend to get him to get it all together. I then acid passivate the caps to make sure they're good for the long term.

Less fittings/complexity also means less places for something bad to hide. You can only put the liquid dip tube in one of the fittings, so you cannot mess up and have the wrong one there.

I prefer more simple configurations where possible. Mostly because it makes things easier on me and less chance of something going sideways.

I picked up the BrewBuilt Max2 glycol chiller for use with my pair of CF10s. Works really well to maintain fermenting temperatures as well as cold crash to carbonate in fermenter. I transferred three gallons into keg (I mostly use 3 gallon kegs) and canned the rest yesterday afternoon for one batch. I have the second batch chilling down (50F) and will dump the yeast before EOD tomorrow. After that it gets the carbonating attachment added and carbonation starts. Before the end of the weekend that batch will also be in keg and can (breakfast stout).

These are sitting in the basement (behind the garage). I did put the Max2 on wheels, and the CF10s are also on wheels (with the short leg extensions). I have things setup so that I can also bridge the chiller feed lines to make a loop when not in use. I need to do that with the fermenter I emptied yesterday so that I can take it into the driveway to rinse out. I'll run PBW through it via a pump for a bit and then get it all ready for another batch. I'm thinking I'll be putting another batch of my chocolate stout in that before the breakfast stout is out of it's fermenter. That's one of the reasons I got two of these. Since I didn't want to have to empty the only one in order to fill it again. Having two means I can have one still in process while filling up another with a fresh batch. No harm if one sits empty for a while either.
I also really like having wheels on these. Since it means I just roll the one getting filled into the garage, fill it, then roll it back to where it will ferment. Brewing in the garage is also a nice upgrade (with the electric system from Spike and Electric Brewing Supply). No longer do I need to setup everything in the driveway, for when I was using propane burners.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Latest version pictures.
View attachment 733856View attachment 733857

I don't TIG weld (I do have a MIG welder) but I have a friend that does and works for beer.

I'm in for buying two (but I'd be happy to get one) when available!

 

[Golddiggie]

Shoot me a PM with your contact info and I'll let you know. Also need to know if you want with, or without, the thermowell.

 

[apache_brew]

I'll add my $.02. I used to use the Norcal kit but got tired of dealing with all the NPT threads to break down and clean between each batch. I modified some 2" tc caps similar to what @Golddiggie did, but instead use a floating dip tube with a pickup screen and no thermowell. I just tape and insulate the inkbird probe to side of the keg, there's no need for a thermowell and additional part to clean. The link in my signature line details the build. I suggest people just buy the kegland part that includes a built in PRV and there's no welding required.

Ball Lock Adapter Tapping Head for Sanke Kegs | MoreBeer

 

[brewtodrinktobrew]

Apache brew, thanks for the reply, that’s looks pretty bad ass. Great build. I am too deep into the NorCal build right now, but we are never done building new stuff. I have a batch in the sanke right now, so I will see how bad it is in to clean later this week.

 

[Golddiggie]

@apache_brew Don't confuse what I made with your monstrosity. Mine sits pretty much flush with the top ring of the sanke keg, with your spundging valve setup connecting to a ball lock post/fitting which is the limit for the height of it. I use a standard corny keg dip tube as well, trimmed to leave a set volume behind (calculated to leave your yeast behind, and give you clear beer) without needing to get any floating setups involved. Less parts means less things to lose track of and also to clean/sanitize.

I've also shifted over to using conical fermenters instead of the kegmenters. I still might keep one or two for odd batches, like cider or mead if I cannot allocate one of the conicals to those.

I'm enjoying the switch to the conicals for multiple reasons. Between the wheels on the ends of the legs to the carbonation setup and chill coil (with glycol chiller) I'm able to get completely ready to drink beer out of fermenter and into keg and/or can without needing to carbonate in serving kegs. Also getting much clearer beer into the kegs and cans due to dropping the yeast from the batch (already repitched one yeast drop, plan to do many more). I could harvest the yeast from the kegmenters before, but it was always more complicated and involved more work. Now, it's very easy.

I will be setting up to make some more of my gen2 kegmenter caps soon. The project that was on the milling machine got finished over the long weekend so I can now setup the rotary table (with three jaw chuck) to hold the caps. I also need to make a 1-1/2" TC dip tube setup for my old keggle that's configured so it can be made into an electric kettle (no element currently). That will be going up for sale once the dip tube is completed.

 

[apache_brew]

@apache_brew Don't confuse what I made with your monstrosity. Mine sits pretty much flush with the top ring of the sanke keg, with your spundging valve setup connecting to a ball lock post/fitting which is the limit for the height of it. I use a standard corny keg dip tube as well, trimmed to leave a set volume behind (calculated to leave your yeast behind, and give you clear beer) without needing to get any floating setups involved. Less parts means less things to lose track of and also to clean/sanitize.

I've also shifted over to using conical fermenters instead of the kegmenters. I still might keep one or two for odd batches, like cider or mead if I cannot allocate one of the conicals to those.

I'm enjoying the switch to the conicals for multiple reasons. Between the wheels on the ends of the legs to the carbonation setup and chill coil (with glycol chiller) I'm able to get completely ready to drink beer out of fermenter and into keg and/or can without needing to carbonate in serving kegs. Also getting much clearer beer into the kegs and cans due to dropping the yeast from the batch (already repitched one yeast drop, plan to do many more). I could harvest the yeast from the kegmenters before, but it was always more complicated and involved more work. Now, it's very easy.

I will be setting up to make some more of my gen2 kegmenter caps soon. The project that was on the milling machine got finished over the long weekend so I can now setup the rotary table (with three jaw chuck) to hold the caps. I also need to make a 1-1/2" TC dip tube setup for my old keggle that's configured so it can be made into an electric kettle (no element currently). That will be going up for sale once the dip tube is completed.

If by monstrosity” you mean something that can’t fit inside a mini fridge, then yes, mine’s monstrous. My setup uses tri clamps and corny post bungs that take regular corny posts (not the npt adapter ones). I only mentioned your setup in reference to the TC end cap with 2 Cornelius posts. The floating dip tube is 3 parts that get disassembled and thrown into the same bucket of hot pbw the night before assembly and then soaked in starsan and assembled in 5 minutes. It racks clear bear until it hits yeast cake every time.

 

[Golddiggie]

The corny post bases in the cap I have/make are welded in (sanitary TIG welded) and then acid passivated. Gen2 caps will have the fittings flush on the underside and I'll be removing the threads from the bases that will be welded in. So the only threads will be for the ball lock posts to actually connect to the 2" TC cap.

By monstrosity, I mean large and complicated. IMO, the K.I.S.S principle is typically better/best. Stainless dip tube means nothing will discolor or stick to it. Making cleaning a snap as well as sanitizing it. I've not yet needed to do anything besides run a dip tube brush through these.

I've always placed enough in fermenter to get my target amount out at the end (or at least that much). I probably could have left the dip tube(s) longer to get more finished beer out, but that extra pint, or two, was never really missed.

At this point, I have the parts to make a few of the caps and will do so soon. These also can have a thermowell in the center for dropping your preferred sensor to get temperature readings of what's fermenting (1/4" ID on the thermowell).

 

[apache_brew]

The corny post bases in the cap I have/make are welded in (sanitary TIG welded) and then acid passivated. Gen2 caps will have the fittings flush on the underside and I'll be removing the threads from the bases that will be welded in. So the only threads will be for the ball lock posts to actually connect to the 2" TC cap.

By monstrosity, I mean large and complicated. IMO, the K.I.S.S principle is typically better/best. Stainless dip tube means nothing will discolor or stick to it. Making cleaning a snap as well as sanitizing it. I've not yet needed to do anything besides run a dip tube brush through these.

I've always placed enough in fermenter to get my target amount out at the end (or at least that much). I probably could have left the dip tube(s) longer to get more finished beer out, but that extra pint, or two, was never really missed.

At this point, I have the parts to make a few of the caps and will do so soon. These also can have a thermowell in the center for dropping your preferred sensor to get temperature readings of what's fermenting (1/4" ID on the thermowell).

Cool story Might want to consider a dedicated PRV.
@brewtodrinktobrew To answer your question, I’d stick to cam lock for the time being. Happy brewing

 

[brewtodrinktobrew]

Thanks to both for your input. I like the cam lock thing because I can swap out my hoses, put on my O2 stone and sight glass, or my recirculating pump for cleaning and sanitizing. I am sure this won’t last long, one of my favorite parts of brewing is coming up with Ideas and building stuff.
This is my brew rig. I love modifying stuff and adding things to help my brew day go quicker and easier. It’s set up for cleaning in that picture.
Thanks again for your input!!!