Bulkhead idea would this work?

[xxdcmast]

So I want to make my MLT bottom drain rather than from the side. I ordered all of my equipment from bargain fittings and it looks like the bulkhead fitting might be a little too tall to fit under the false bottom and drain completely.

I began thinking of a way to make a low profile bulkhead fitting that would sit low enough on the bottom of the keg to get all the liquid out.

This is what I was thinking please let me know if you think it will work or not. I guess I should have put the ball valve on the bottom instead of the locknut.

 

[silvervan83]

I can't imagine how that would work but, I don't think you will be able to hold an o-ring down with a ball valve. Your gonna be stuck with the locknut, then a coupler, then another nipple, then the ball valve. The valve isn't going to have the the grove out of it for the o-ring like the locknut has.

How do you plan on holding down the false bottom?

 

[xxdcmast]

Im not planning on using regular o-rings. Im going to use the silicone sealing washers that many on here have used. They are much larger and flatter than the o-ring so the groove wont be necessary

I dont think I would really need another coupler. I think I may be able to use the locknut to put pressure on the sealing washer and then thread the ball valve onto the nipple as well. I may need a nipple longer than an inch but thats easy enough to get.

The false bottom will sit on the bottom of the keg, the weight of the grains should be enough to hold it down.

 

[hammer one]

To get a low profile your best bet is to have a half coupling welded in.

 

[Catt22]

Looks like it would work. IMO, you won't need the second O-ring (or gasket) on the outside. You also wouldn't need the second locknut. The valve itself could be used as the locknut. Take up any excess slack with additional washers if necessary. I think it is a mistake to put the valve on the bottom. I have a keggle with the typical valve on the side and a pickup tube to the center through a false bottom. No problems with it at all and it leaves very little wort behind. Are you going to heat the tun or just do a simple infusion mash? I would not count on the weight of the grain to hold the false bottom in place, mostly because there will be no weight. The grain will be suspended in the mash water (at least it is supposed to be) and there will be liquid under the false bottom. IOW, there will be no force differential until you either begin to drain the tun or pump the runoff. When stirring the mash you will more than likely disturb the FB which could allow grain to pass beneath it. A full width FB would be less susceptible to this problem, but I would figure out a way to hold it down firmly.

 

[buzzkill]

looks like it will work fine. and the O rings work well if you just snug them up.

if you over tighten them they will leak

 

[Nwcw2001]

Here's an idea for the low profile aspect. Go down to HD/Lowes and get a small sink drain. It will lay damn-near flush and you can marry it up to a ball valve.

edit** If you are using a keg, the dip in the bottom will help that sit pretty flush.

Just a thought

John

 

[Bobby_M]

I do like the idea of bottom drains but not if you're going to direct fire it. Also keep in mind that the plumbing will extend below the keg bottom so you'll have to work that into the stand you intend to use. I would use the nipple itself to hold the false bottom down. I'm too lazy to draw a picture right now but here are the parts from the top down.
1/2" NPT pipe cap, nipple through hole in the false bottom, locknut, silicone washer, hole in the bottom of the keg, silicone washer, 1/2" NPT elbow... then whatever you need to route to your ball valve. The key to having it drain right is to drill a bunch of holes in nipple just above the locknut that's inside the keg.