building a spunding valve - options for pressure control?

[mike_g08]

Hello.

I aim to build a spunding valve, for use with 1-2 5 gallon corny fermenters. I see several options for the pressure control/relief part of the build, and am wondering about experiences with each:

1. A needle valve type, such as the petcock from my old pressure cooker (or a new $4.00 brass needle valve). I would adjust it to the desired pressure with the help of a pressure gauge. My concern is that it would bleed off to 0 psi, but haven't tested this.

2. McMaster p/n 48935k35 - 3/8 MIP - this apparently seals with a buna-n type seal, which hopefully would mitigate the loss of pressure others have seen with the 1/8" MIP size?

3. Mirro Canner "Jiggler" weight and vent pipe - these are used on pressure cookers to relieve at 5-10-15 psi . I don't know how it would function for this application. Anyone have experience here?

4. McMaster p/n 99045K11 plastic pressure-maintaining valve ($36.88).

I suspect option 4 will do the job well, based on others use. I am more curious if anyone can weigh in on Options 1-3, specifically if they can maintain 10 or 15 psi for a few weeks, for instance.

 

[schematix]

This topic has been well covered on other threads here for years.

However, i am currently looking to do the exactly same thing as you. I am going with #4.

1. This would definitely bleed to 0. This would only work if you had a large and continuous source of gas.

2. Most others report that when these vent, they drop to 0 before closing.

3. I had considered something similar but tuning the weights to the right pressure sounded like a hassle to me, not to mention all the weights you'd need.

4. Seems to be a lot of position reviews of this device. Only downside is its pricey. I've seen a few people who T'd several kegs together. I'm going individual.


After much review I decided on this for balance of cost, effectiveness and ease of use: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=4419691&postcount=15

 

[clarkpadgett]

This is the one that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDY3CU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[mike_g08]

schematix -

With regard to #2 - the 1/8" MIP size apparently seals with stainless steel - thus the tendency to leak. I am hoping the buna-n (3/8 MIP) seal model would be different, but don't know if anyone has tried it or not.

With regard to #3 - the typical mirro weight contains 5-10-15 psi settings in one weight.

clarkpadgett- thanks for the idea. I see mixed reviews on it from various sources, unfortunately.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]clarkpadgett- thanks for the idea. I see mixed reviews on it from various sources, unfortunately.

I use the same regulator and the knock on it is you have to incorporate a pressure gauge to use it as there is no relationship between pressure setting and the stick-on paper gauge.

With a gauge attached it works as advertised...

Cheers!

 

[jddevinn]

Check this thread out http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?p=3782#p3782

 

[douglasbarbin]

This is the one that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDY3CU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I have one of those and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TJPEE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[mike_g08]

More options! Per the thread referenced by jddevinn, the MoreBeer 1830S is an SS relief valve with a preset 55 psi spring (can purchase 20 psi spring from morebeer). Might be a good way to go.

douglasbarbin, did you reverse the vac valve for use as pressure relief?

 

[crane]

I have one of those and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TJPEE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I have a couple of spunding valves and here are my comments on them.

The one from Amazon I quoted seems to work well, but will vent above 15psi so you can't carbonate to full volumes. You have to reverse the spring and ball inside it to turn it into a PRV, otherwise it only vents a vacuum. My main concern about using it in my fermentation chamber is corrosion over time. I mainly use this guy for counter pressure transfers.

The cheap brass one that more beer sells just plain sucks. The threads are so course that a small turn can be a difference of 5+ psi. Bottom line is its really hard to get it set to a specific Psi. Additionally, a few times it bled to 0 psi after setting it to ~5psi. Other people have reported better success than I had with this one, so it could be a quality control issue where some perform better than others.

The $36 plastic guy from McMaster is the one I prefer for fermenting. It is really easy to adjust to a specific pressure and won't corrode in the fermentation chamber. The only caveat to this one is that if sticky wort/beer gets in there you cannot take it apart and I did have one stop working because of this. Since then I have built an air lock/liquid trap from a water filter housing and a section of the spear from a sanke keg, so any overflow of kraussen gets trapped in that instead of being pushed out the valve.

 

[douglasbarbin]

douglasbarbin, did you reverse the vac valve for use as pressure relief?

Yes, you would need to reverse it to relieve pressure.

 

[jddevinn]

More options! Per the thread referenced by jddevinn, the MoreBeer 1830S is an SS relief valve with a preset 55 psi spring (can purchase 20 psi spring from morebeer). Might be a good way to go.

douglasbarbin, did you reverse the vac valve for use as pressure relief?

It's actually set at 55psia but is threaded and by unthreading and using a pressure gauge they are able to set it lower. I bought one of the McMaster p/n 99045K11 for experimenting the day before the stainless MoreBeer one was posted.... will switch to the cheaper ss morebeer one when I build the permanent spunding setups.

 

[douglasbarbin]

What kind of pressure are you guys fermenting at?

 

[crane]

What kind of pressure are you guys fermenting at?

I usually start around 3-5 psi and bump it up to 10 about half way through. The last day or 2 I bump it up to ~20psi.

 

[brewbama]

http://seanterrill.com/2015/06/25/build-a-better-spunding-valve/

 

[douglasbarbin]

Just an update, I have noticed that the modified brass vacuum valve vents much more slowly than the CR25-100 valve with the black knob. So I would probably stick with the CR25-100

 

[crane]

Just an update, I have noticed that the modified brass vacuum valve vents much more slowly than the CR25-100 valve with the black knob. So I would probably stick with the CR25-100

How does speed of venting correlate to better/worse valve to use? Speed of venting seems irrelevant to our application of the valve.

 

[douglasbarbin]

How does speed of venting correlate to better/worse valve to use? Speed of venting seems irrelevant to our application of the valve.

It depends on how quickly the pressure builds up. If it builds up faster than it can vent, then you have a problem. That being said, I never said anything about better/worse, just my personal preference. I think either one will work fine for my particular application. YMMV, of course.

 

[stonebrewer]

I use the SS one from MoreBeer with good results. It can be completely taken apart to clean if needed. It holds the pressures I have set it to, that being 3 PSI, 5 PSI, 15 PSI, 20 PSI, and 30 PSI. It requires a gauge to be accurate. MoreBeer sells it with or without the gauge and/or corny QD...I just bought the valve for $10 as I had an old gauge from a pressure regulator that I replaced a few years back, a brass tee, and a gas QD.