Building 2 keezers at the same time

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MusicalBrewer

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I've been itching to build a keezer for a while now. The big hitch was getting it in the house. I located a corner where a small keezer would fit, promised I would make it look awesome, and I got the thumbs up from the Mrs. So I bought a freezer off Craigslist for $75 I casually started planning my build.

Well, the boss surprised us with 12 days off over Christmas and new years, so I decided to build my keezer. I would have preferred to have had more time and planned it out better, but the opportunity was there so I just jumped into it. I'm having to figure some things out on the fly, but I think it will turn out just fine.
 
Meet "Ugly Betty". I acquired her with a bunch of beer equipment I purchased from a brewer who was getting out of brewing. I tried selling her for a few weeks on Craigslist, but no one bit (I wonder why...). So I decided to give her a face lift while I was building my keezer

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So my keezer will be a coffin keezer, but "Ugly Betty" will be a collar keezer of sorts. I'll refer to them as Keezer 1 and Keezer 2 (bring back any Dr. Suess memories..)

I wanted both on a rolling platform, so I purchased a sheet of pre-finished birch plywood to make the base and sub frame. I also picked up some low profile casters. They are only 2" casters but are rated at 125 lbs each. A total of 500 lbs load bearing will be more than enough for this little unit.

These pictures are of Keezer 1, but both will be done the same way.

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Keezer 1:

I decided to dry fit the freezer to make sure everything was correct before I started cutting my finished lumber. I left a 3/4" gap around the freezer for air space. There is an additional 3/4" air space in the center of the frames I made for a total of 1 1/2". While it's not the recommended 3" of space, think it will be plenty. The compressor hole is on the back side of the unit (which will be open) and will be able to breathe freeley. I also plan on drilling some holes in the base to allow for air movement.

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Keezer 1:

Now it was time to trim the main section out. I decided to go with Beetle Kill Pine tongue and groove. It's really beautiful wood with lots of character.

I fastened all the planks from the inside so there are no visible fasteners. Instead of mitering the corners, I decided to bevel the back edge of the face board to keep with the tongue and groove look.

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Keezer 1:

Next I cut and glued up the top. I cut the tongue and groove off these planks so there would be a nice smooth surface on top.

While the top was drying I filled in the 3/4" gap along the top. This is so the freezer will sit snug and not slide around.

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Keezer 1:

After the top was dry, I sanded it and cut it to size. I work in a custom cabinet shop so I have all the fun tools available to me...and the wide belt sander made this job easy.

Next I had to mill some lumber that would sit on the top of the freezer and form the seal. I picked up some auto and marine seal at the local hardware store..figured it would hold up to moisture OK.

Then I positioned the top and fastened the hinges.

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Keezer 1:

The next step will be to cut some planks to 3" and run a trim piece around the top. Also I've got to figure out the coffin. I've looked at a few builds here, but like I said I haven't had the time to plan as thoroughly as I normally would like, so if you've got any "I wish I would have" or "I'm glad I did" advice, please feel free to chime in.

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Keezer 2:

I want to do the same kind of shell with this keezer, but I want to keep it a simple collar style. So I built a collar that slides over the top of the freezer. The plan is that this unit will then slide inside the "rolling shell" just like the other keezer.

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Keezer 2:

I planned the collar height so I could use the top 2 hinge mount holes that are on the back of the freezer.

Here's "Ugly Betty" with the first stage of her remodel. Tomorrow I'll have the rolling shell built for her.

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I like the idea, but how is the keezer with the cool wood sheathing going to shed heat? If it's the kind where the sides get warm, the outside will be kept from outside air, and it's going to really have to work. If it has a fan, where is the warm air exiting? Both look like the kind where the sides radiate heat.
 
Look at you pocket screws and everything..Looks like the boss said go home but you didn't leave the shop:D
 
I like the idea, but how is the keezer with the cool wood sheathing going to shed heat? If it's the kind where the sides get warm, the outside will be kept from outside air, and it's going to really have to work. If it has a fan, where is the warm air exiting? Both look like the kind where the sides radiate heat.

The keezers I've had before are actually running maybe 10 minutes an hour. I think the work load to keep the freezer at 34 degrees is far less than running as a deep freeze. Based on what I've read and what I've seen here on Homebrewtalk I'm not really worried about it.

If, when it's hooked up and running, it feels warm between the freezer and cabinet I have a plan. I can just hook up a couple CPU fans - one on each side. I'll have one push air and one pull air so it circulates around the freezer. I left space on the back side so i can do that and have the fans hidden. That should be more than enough to cool it down. RDWHAHB :mug:
 
The keezers I've had before are actually running maybe 10 minutes an hour. I think the work load to keep the freezer at 34 degrees is far less than running as a deep freeze. Based on what I've read and what I've seen here on Homebrewtalk I'm not really worried about it. </quote>

Those don't have the enclosures, remember. I'd bet you'd double the time running. Over time, that will boost your electric bill.

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If, when it's hooked up and running, it feels warm between the freezer and cabinet I have a plan. I can just hook up a couple CPU fans - one on each side. I'll have one push air and one pull air so it circulates around the freezer. I left space on the back side so i can do that and have the fans hidden. That should be more than enough to cool it down. RDWHAHB :mug:

I'd hate to screw up the look of the sides--I really, really like how it looks--but maybe you could put some louvers in the sides that would allow the warm air to naturally, with convection, rise and ventilate?

Another possibility could be a series of 1- or 1.5" holes drilled on the sides, one row a couple inches from the top, the same a couple inches from the bottom.

The point of the holes is that they would look better than louvers. Or maybe there would be a way to disguise them.

I just like anything that works without having to have a mechanical system--less to go wrong. I do love the way it looks.
 
I'd hate to screw up the look of the sides--I really, really like how it looks--but maybe you could put some louvers in the sides that would allow the warm air to naturally, with convection, rise and ventilate?

Another possibility could be a series of 1- or 1.5" holes drilled on the sides, one row a couple inches from the top, the same a couple inches from the bottom.

The point of the holes is that they would look better than louvers. Or maybe there would be a way to disguise them.

I just like anything that works without having to have a mechanical system--less to go wrong. I do love the way it looks.

A mechanical system is fine with me. I'll take a couple fans over holes in the sides! But I'll make that decision after it's up and running. It will be an easy add if necessary.
 
Great build, the wood really makes a difference. I was going to comment on the lack of cooling but it seems like you have thought of that already. I also used 2" casters on all of my builds and they work fine.

As for ideas on your coffin top there are a couple of threads dedicated to showcasing what others have done with some great craftsmanship. I have built a few Coffin keezers with the threads down below in my signature that are pic heavy.

When building a coffin one thing to keep in mind is maintaining the temp of the beer in the lines. I have tried a few things and ended up going the passive cooling route. I have changed the way this is done several times settling on the one in my third build. Fans are easier to install and will also work well.

Good luck and keep posting pics
 
Great build, the wood really makes a difference. I was going to comment on the lack of cooling but it seems like you have thought of that already. I also used 2" casters on all of my builds and they work fine.

As for ideas on your coffin top there are a couple of threads dedicated to showcasing what others have done with some great craftsmanship. I have built a few Coffin keezers with the threads down below in my signature that are pic heavy.

When building a coffin one thing to keep in mind is maintaining the temp of the beer in the lines. I have tried a few things and ended up going the passive cooling route. I have changed the way this is done several times settling on the one in my third build. Fans are easier to install and will also work well.

Good luck and keep posting pics

Hey Purplehaze, thanks for kind words the and the advice!

I hope I've thought through the cooling well enough :eek: . I was going based on a couple builds I had seen here that have very little cooling space. In this build a few inches of width is a big issue. I like how you tackled this in your "Second Keezer Build" thread...just built in some venting space and let the air flow out the top. I'll be using that in future builds.

As far as the coffin goes I think I've decided to just go with an 80mm CPU fan and channel through some insulation. My coffin will only be 10 x 14 x 14 so I should have enough air movement to keep that small space cool.

I love the cask covering the taps in your "Look Ma No Fans" build. My original plan was to design something that would cover the taps when it wasn't in use, but alas, time and money don't permit it now.

I'll have some more photos tomorrow.
 
Keezer 2:

I spent a crazy 12 hours working on both keezers today. The finisher said he would clear coat them tomorrow if I had them ready, so I got all the parts that needed finishing completed.

Here's a couple shots of "Ugly Bettty." She looks a whole lot prettier now.

I was trying to figure out how to fasten the top on. I decided to screw a piece of plywood to the top of the freezer lid. Then I fastened a couple boards on the under side of the finished top that fit around the plywood. Then I can either fasten the finished top on with screws from the side or just silicone it to the plywood.

I couldn't resist mocking it up, so I mounted a couple of taps on to see what she'll look like.

The top overhangs the front of the keezer by about 1/2". I didn't think about checking to see if that would interfere with the tap handles until I was on my way home. I wasn't going to turn around and head back to the shop to check it out. So if it does interfere I'll just have to trim some off the back edge of the top and slide the top back.

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Keezer 1:

On the coffin keezer I mounted the trim that goes around the top using biscuits and glue.

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Keezer 1:

For the coffin I used 1/2" plywood as the sub structure to save on some weight and interior space. I took some measurements on the insulation I will be using and as well as the fan to help determine how much space I will need. I added a little extra room and just built what was aesthetically pleasing to me. Hopefully I left enough room to get everything I need in the coffin.

I made the coffin so I can just screw it onto the top.

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Keezer 1:

Here it is all mocked up. I can't wait to get it home and start putting it together.

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I really like the spalted colors of the wood, hopefully the majority of the blues are maintained after its clear coated.
 
It's not fair when the cabinet makers start playing. Great looking build and that pine is going to be nuts when finished.
 
Keezer 1 & 2:

The finish turned out amazing. It really made the colors stand out.

Now the fun part begins...getting all the internal parts in place. I'm going to work on #2 first so I can try and get it sold. Then I'll work on my coffin keezer.

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Sweet build, a couple of questions if you don't mind.

Where did you get the beetle kill wood? I'd love to use it on a project for my lake place.

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to attach the trim boards to my top. I don't have a biscuit joiner like you, so am looking for other ideas.
 
Sweet build, a couple of questions if you don't mind.

Where did you get the beetle kill wood? I'd love to use it on a project for my lake place.

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to attach the trim boards to my top. I don't have a biscuit joiner like you, so am looking for other ideas.

I picked up the beetle kill pine at a lumber / granite supplier in Denver. My understanding is the beetle kill comes from the Rockies, so it may be somewhat of a regional supply thing (not sure if you can get it across the US). If you want the exact name of the supplier send me a PM and I'll be happy to get that to you. Maybe they can help you get your hands on some.

Another option to put the trim on is using a drill and dowels. I would highly recommend purchasing a jig for this. It's nearly impossible to keep your drill straight and centered doing it free hand. You can purchase a self centering doweling jig from Harbor Freight for $15.

Cheers! :mug:
 
Keezer 2:

Well the "Ugly Betty" remodel is complete.

I decided to cut some holes in the bottom to accommodate better air flow around the compressor. The entire bottom of the freezer is open around the compressor, so some holes in the bottom should allow fresh air in from the bottom and the warm air can vent out the back.

For hose management I wanted something that was attached to the side, but where the hoses could be easily moved. After roaming around Lowes for a while I decided to use PVC couplings. I drilled a large hole in front so the drill driver could fit through, and then a smaller hole in the back for the screw. Then I took the jig saw and cut some slots in the top of the couplings so the hoses could slide in and out.

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Keezer 2:

Here are a couple pictures of the completed project. I know the taps aren't Perlick, but the purpose of this is to give a face lift and sell it.

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I like the idea, but how is the keezer with the cool wood sheathing going to shed heat? If it's the kind where the sides get warm, the outside will be kept from outside air, and it's going to really have to work. If it has a fan, where is the warm air exiting? Both look like the kind where the sides radiate heat.

After doing some more research I decided to do some modifications to allow for better air flow. I think I was taking the venting a little to casually at first. Thanks mongoose33 and purplehaze for the heads up!

I pulled the top 3/4" spacers out and put in just corner blocks. Then I drilled some holes in the bottom so that air could flow from the bottom to the top and out. Then I notched my two plywood frame pieces on each side of the freezer to allow for air flow from a CPU case fan. I mounted two fans and have them both blowing in. This pushes the air through nicely and I can feel the airflow coming out the front center.

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Keezer 1:

Here's some pictures of the wiring and the coffin. I went with two 80mm case fans rated at 24 cfm. I did some tests prior to my final build and the air temp in the coffin ranged between 3-5 degrees of the freezer temp. (The temp probe was in the middle of the freezer, measuring by height). That was close enough for me.

The plug colored blue is wired to the temp controller for cooling. The freezer plugs in there. The other plug is hot all the time for the case fans.

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Keezer 1:

Getting the hoses in place for all 3 kegs was a bit more challenging than I anticipated. It works though. I managed to get 3 kegs in a 5 cu ft coffin keezer (the one on the compressor hump is a 3 gallon).

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Keezer 1:

Ahhh...finally finished. New Perlick taps installed and chalkboard tap handles. She looks pretty.

The only problem is....my wife decided she liked the style of Keezer 2 better...lol. Since that one is already sold, it looks like I'm going to put this one up for sale and build myself another collar style keezer. :smack:

I can't decided if I'm going to start a keg through this one and get a few pours out of it, or if I'm just going to leave it untouched.

For now, back to the drawing board...

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