BruControl Uniflex: Automation For All

[BrunDog]

Unfortunately, no. The UniFlex has 12 digital high current outputs and 1 proportional (0-10VDC) output. You can either switch 2-way to 3-ways to make it work, or add a separate interface to drive the extra outputs (kinda defeats the PnP purpose of the UniFlex tho).

I'd suggest you draw this with proper valve symbols too - easier for us cro-mags to read! If you use draw.io, they have built-in symbols for example.

 

[crane]

Switching 2 way to 3 way valves isn't going to give you a second proportional output which is what he will be short on.

Technically you don't need 2 proportional valves for fly sparging. Without affecting efficiency you can do something like pump a gallon of sparge water into the MT on top of the mash volume, wait for the MT to drain a gallon, then repeat until all the sparge water is transferred. In this case you would just need the one proportional valve to control the flow rate from MT to BK which is what affects sparge efficiency.

 

[swanwick]

Yeah, I noticed that too. Given that you are only selling me 9 motorized 2 ways anyway, I think I will hold off on the garden hose automation. That leaves my design with nine 2 way and 2 proportional. If I turn the HLT proportional into a regular 2 way and then control the pump on/off with a float switch in the MT, that should accomplish the same goal of balancing the fly sparge.

Going to need a float switch that I can set the height on differently for different mash bills. Thinking something that could rigidly attach to the sparge arm might work. Will have to do some HBT digging for that.

 

[swanwick]

@BrunDog thx. Good to know those limitations. Going to try a float switch approach instead of the second proportional (described above).

Also, curious your thoughts on the wiring connections for the motorized valves. Question from post #30: @crane has re-wired to this and I think uniflex accepts something like this?

Would love to switch diagram into a better practice format. I think I was able to find the flow plugin for draw.io (now diagrams.net), but still struggling to find the right images to represent brewing items: 2 way ball valves, etc.... Do you have any HERMS examplars from draw.io that I could copy the objects?

 

[crane]

Most valves come with a pigtail that you need to solder a cable to. The ones I'm selling you are similar but have a waterproof connector to disconnect the cable at the valve end. The cable end of the connector is a pigtail that needs a cable soldered to it. You would still need to make a cable to connect the valve to the uniflex.

 

[swanwick]

I think @BrunDog has upgraded the uniflex (V2) so that no soldering is required. Not sure how the output devices wire up now. I am guessing that I will need to buy the opposite end of the pigtail @crane has, and wire it to whatever connector the uniflex accepts.

For the float switch....not much advice on sparging float switches that I can find on HBT. Here is what I am thinking....Drill a hole in the lid large enough to fit the stainless rod float switch through. Hollow out a bung to the same ID as the OD of the float switch rod. Cut the side of the bung so that the rod can slide onto the center hole at the narrow part between the top fatness and the fatness of the float ball itself. Adjust the height of the rod to fit the mash bill for each brew and then push the bung into the hole in the lid. I would think that would be enough pressure to hold it in place while the float rises up. Any comments as to whether folks think that will work or not. Easier ways? Would be nice not to drill a hole in the lid of my nice new kettle.

 

[swanwick]

I had another idea....I bought a sparge arm that goes with my MT (Stout Tanks). It has a 1/5" TC end cap which is hanging above the wort. I don't have soldering skill, but I could find someone who could solder a clip to that cap. Then the stainless float switch rod could attach into that clip.

If there is enough clearance to keep the MT lid on, does anyone know if the massive heat/humidity will cause problems where the wires exit the float switch? I can always leave the lid off and just raise the HLT temp a bit.

Anyone tried anything simlar to this to automate the sparge pump?

 

[BrunDog]

Correct on the v2 UniFlex... no soldering needed.

Does your vessel have a sight glass? If so, capacitive level sensors are cool (e.g. E2K-L26).

For draw.io... glick View... Shapes... and enable the shapes for fluid power. Motorized ball valve looks like:

 

[crane]

Looks like you can buy these cables for the valves I have and you won't need to solder anything.

 

[swanwick]

Yup, looks like the 3 meter version of the one you purchased for the valve side of the connection. Thought for a second that it was going to add $18 to the cost of each valve, Seems it is for 5pieces so not as bad.

 

[swanwick]

nobody biting on the float switch portion of this thread, huh?

I think I have an even simpler design in mind now. Instead of a float switch with a rod, just use a float switch that hangs from a cord. Alligator clip the float switch cord to the handle of the TC clamp. That should allow for flexible height for each brew, stable position during the brew, no drilling into vessels or lids, and lid able to stay on.

For those without a handly sparge arm at the top of the MT, I would think that you could also clip the cord to the handle on the outside of your vessel or to the top of your vessel and just let the float switch hang touching the edge of the inside of the vessel.

Anyone tried this to automate sparge flow?

Could it work for avoiding dry firing in HLT? It seems that once the float went horizontal because the water level reached the cord, that the sensor would be unreliable and so you would get false positives saying the float had reached the bottom when it was at the end of the tether, but horizontally floating around.

Because of the problem above, even for sparge flow, one would need to make sure the inflow stopped before the float went horizontal. That might not be much time between when it ticks the reed and when it reaches the top of its movable range and starts to go horizontal. Maybe this is the reason to use a solid rod? Anyone with field experience on these?

 

[swimIan]

@swanwick I use 2 way motorized valves throughout my brewery. I use manual valves for flow control, for now. I have a Blichmann Autosparge to control the flow rate into MT while sparging. You might look into that.

 

[swanwick]

@swanwick I have a Blichmann Autosparge to control the flow rate into MT while sparging. You might look into that.

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like a great product, but requires a 13/16" mounting hole in side of vessel. I am trying to avoid that for now.

 

[swimIan]

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like a great product, but requires a 13/16" mounting hole in side of vessel. I am trying to avoid that for now.

I’m sure you find a Triclamp adapter for it instead.

 

[RenaudP]

Hi @RonBurgundy10 I’m curious at the temp probe you used.
I’m looking for one to put on a 1/2 npt pipe juste where the wort come in the MT.

To hook up to the Uniflex that I’ll be receiving in a short while.

Thanks

I had my first brew with three probes (instead of 2) this weekend. I wanted a probe directly on the wort that was heading into my mash tun. I am new to HERMS so I wanted to get an exact on the difference between the HLT water temp and the actual wort passing through the coil and going back on top of the grain bed. I added a T fitting with a compression fitting on the side. The probe goes in the side while the wort comes in from the top.
View attachment 689235

You can see a big spike swing on the graph below. That is from me stopping the pump to stir the bed in. I was happy to find out that it stayed almost exactly 2 degrees different. I had it set at 156 at first but once everything was warmed up and level I ended up turning the HLT down to 154 to keep the mash between 152-152.5 for the remaining 45 minutes. Pretty awesome!

 

[RonBurgundy10]

Hi @RonBurgundy10 I’m curious at the temp probe you used.
I’m looking for one to put on a 1/2 npt pipe juste where the wort come in the MT.

To hook up to the Uniflex that I’ll be receiving in a short while.

Thanks

That would be a better questions for @BrunDog as he set me up with it and I dont want to tell you the wrong thing.

 

[BrunDog]

The UF probe is a 6mm OD stainless tube - it can be inserted into threaded sections with a compression coupler, for example: Probe Compression Fitting 1/2'' MNPT x 1/4 probe PCOMP1. Looks like it is currently out of stock, but you can ask @Bobby_M for a stock status or source the parts elsewhere.

 

[swanwick]

I also suggest @Bobby_M at brewhardware But, if you need before he has in stock or you don't need other stuff to make the shipping cost worth it, then these on Amazon should work
Swan

 

[BrunDog]

Yes, just note that Bobby's fitting replaces the stainless or nylon insert (ferrule) with O-rings. You should definitely not use any metal insert/ferrule on the temp probe. The nylon one may be OK, but I think you would be best with the O-rings. Might need to mess with the sizes that will work, but I suspect a pair of 6mm ID ones with thin-ish wall thickness should do the trick. Hows that for technical?!?

 

[swanwick]

Agreed. Certainly don't need 100, but this should cover that:
Swan

 

[swanwick]

Update on the Amazon item that seemed to be an in-the-pinch option for BobbyM compression adapter..... was NOT 1/4" ID. I had to drill out the center with a a series of increasing sized bits to get to 1/4" ID so that the probe fits. Have not tried with fluids yet, but I am assuming the drilling worked as needed.....Bottom line: do not recommend unless you are in a complete pinch.

 

[BrunDog]

Update on the Amazon item that seemed to be an in-the-pinch option for BobbyM compression adapter..... was NOT 1/4" ID. I had to drill out the center with a a series of increasing sized bits to get to 1/4" ID so that the probe fits. Have not tried with fluids yet, but I am assuming the drilling worked as needed.....Bottom line: do not recommend unless you are in a complete pinch.

Good to know! Problem is cheap vendors don't share all the detailed specs. Sounds like you made it work, though I'm sure drilling SS is not much fun.