BruControl Uniflex: Automation For All

[swanwick]

nobody biting on the float switch portion of this thread, huh?

I think I have an even simpler design in mind now. Instead of a float switch with a rod, just use a float switch that hangs from a cord. Alligator clip the float switch cord to the handle of the TC clamp. That should allow for flexible height for each brew, stable position during the brew, no drilling into vessels or lids, and lid able to stay on.

For those without a handly sparge arm at the top of the MT, I would think that you could also clip the cord to the handle on the outside of your vessel or to the top of your vessel and just let the float switch hang touching the edge of the inside of the vessel.

Anyone tried this to automate sparge flow?

Could it work for avoiding dry firing in HLT? It seems that once the float went horizontal because the water level reached the cord, that the sensor would be unreliable and so you would get false positives saying the float had reached the bottom when it was at the end of the tether, but horizontally floating around.

Because of the problem above, even for sparge flow, one would need to make sure the inflow stopped before the float went horizontal. That might not be much time between when it ticks the reed and when it reaches the top of its movable range and starts to go horizontal. Maybe this is the reason to use a solid rod? Anyone with field experience on these?

 

[swimIan]

@swanwick I use 2 way motorized valves throughout my brewery. I use manual valves for flow control, for now. I have a Blichmann Autosparge to control the flow rate into MT while sparging. You might look into that.

 

[swanwick]

@swanwick I have a Blichmann Autosparge to control the flow rate into MT while sparging. You might look into that.

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like a great product, but requires a 13/16" mounting hole in side of vessel. I am trying to avoid that for now.

 

[swimIan]

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like a great product, but requires a 13/16" mounting hole in side of vessel. I am trying to avoid that for now.

I’m sure you find a Triclamp adapter for it instead.

 

[RenaudP]

Hi @RonBurgundy10 I’m curious at the temp probe you used.
I’m looking for one to put on a 1/2 npt pipe juste where the wort come in the MT.

To hook up to the Uniflex that I’ll be receiving in a short while.

Thanks

I had my first brew with three probes (instead of 2) this weekend. I wanted a probe directly on the wort that was heading into my mash tun. I am new to HERMS so I wanted to get an exact on the difference between the HLT water temp and the actual wort passing through the coil and going back on top of the grain bed. I added a T fitting with a compression fitting on the side. The probe goes in the side while the wort comes in from the top.
View attachment 689235

You can see a big spike swing on the graph below. That is from me stopping the pump to stir the bed in. I was happy to find out that it stayed almost exactly 2 degrees different. I had it set at 156 at first but once everything was warmed up and level I ended up turning the HLT down to 154 to keep the mash between 152-152.5 for the remaining 45 minutes. Pretty awesome!

 

[RonBurgundy10]

Hi @RonBurgundy10 I’m curious at the temp probe you used.
I’m looking for one to put on a 1/2 npt pipe juste where the wort come in the MT.

To hook up to the Uniflex that I’ll be receiving in a short while.

Thanks

That would be a better questions for @BrunDog as he set me up with it and I dont want to tell you the wrong thing.

 

[BrunDog]

The UF probe is a 6mm OD stainless tube - it can be inserted into threaded sections with a compression coupler, for example: Probe Compression Fitting 1/2'' MNPT x 1/4 probe PCOMP1. Looks like it is currently out of stock, but you can ask @Bobby_M for a stock status or source the parts elsewhere.

 

[swanwick]

I also suggest @Bobby_M at brewhardware But, if you need before he has in stock or you don't need other stuff to make the shipping cost worth it, then these on Amazon should work
Swan

 

[BrunDog]

Yes, just note that Bobby's fitting replaces the stainless or nylon insert (ferrule) with O-rings. You should definitely not use any metal insert/ferrule on the temp probe. The nylon one may be OK, but I think you would be best with the O-rings. Might need to mess with the sizes that will work, but I suspect a pair of 6mm ID ones with thin-ish wall thickness should do the trick. Hows that for technical?!?

 

[swanwick]

Agreed. Certainly don't need 100, but this should cover that:
Swan

 

[swanwick]

Update on the Amazon item that seemed to be an in-the-pinch option for BobbyM compression adapter..... was NOT 1/4" ID. I had to drill out the center with a a series of increasing sized bits to get to 1/4" ID so that the probe fits. Have not tried with fluids yet, but I am assuming the drilling worked as needed.....Bottom line: do not recommend unless you are in a complete pinch.

 

[BrunDog]

Update on the Amazon item that seemed to be an in-the-pinch option for BobbyM compression adapter..... was NOT 1/4" ID. I had to drill out the center with a a series of increasing sized bits to get to 1/4" ID so that the probe fits. Have not tried with fluids yet, but I am assuming the drilling worked as needed.....Bottom line: do not recommend unless you are in a complete pinch.

Good to know! Problem is cheap vendors don't share all the detailed specs. Sounds like you made it work, though I'm sure drilling SS is not much fun.