The difference is 1-3 raw numbers, with an average of 3. (right three columns are raw readings of with and without connector, and the delta.)
here is the resistor in the connector I made.
BruControl: Brewery control & automation software
- Thread starter BrunDog
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
here is the resistor in the connector I made.
OP
OP
I'm not following your spreadsheet. That said, I was looking for "directly into the amplifier terminals". You still have the wire interface at the terminals, soldered to the connector, then the connector, then to another terminal ( I think) - all this only serves to potentially add resistance. Tenths of ohms will make a difference.
That picture was of the connector, I figured everyone would know what the image looked like with the resistor moved to the amplifier board.
The right three columns have today's data. On GPIO12, it read 7577 for the raw value with the connector as shown, and it read 7576 without it. This relates to a 0.06 to 0.07 degree Fahrenheit error. The average is 2, meaning the average error introduced by the connectors is 0.12-0.13F, but it is fairly uniform, and can be calibrated out to being small... it clearly shows the amps have a difference larger than what the connector adds.
The right three columns have today's data. On GPIO12, it read 7577 for the raw value with the connector as shown, and it read 7576 without it. This relates to a 0.06 to 0.07 degree Fahrenheit error. The average is 2, meaning the average error introduced by the connectors is 0.12-0.13F, but it is fairly uniform, and can be calibrated out to being small... it clearly shows the amps have a difference larger than what the connector adds.
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
Try the top left and top right corners of the script window to adjust vertical height. If a horizontal scroll bar comes up when you open the script window, the corners are just below the left/right arrows.
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
that worked ! thank you so much.
OK, re-assembled after tinning leads that go into the RTD boards from the PG13 connectors, and I recorded raw numbers with ~100Ω and ~110Ω resistors, (in plugs). I will do a higher value later if needed, but I am pretty happy... The error(100Ω ∆ and 110Ω ∆) on both test plugs was pretty similar, and helped me get the CAL number that I put into BruControl Interface calibration as the very first calibration entry. After that, the only calibrations are the RTD-430 and the CtoF calibration. I then hooked up four amazon probes (T Pro RTD PT100 4x30mm 3.3ft) with tips placed in a 4oz glass bottle I had laying around, and cycled the connectors through twice to make sure it was stable.
I am pretty darn happy, and feel confident that with a little probe calibration I can get a little better, and calibrate to my NIST glass thermometer much better than I was able to before. You don't need a precision 100 ohm resistor IMHO, just get all your RTD Amps reading the same value before the RTD calc by using a couple resistors. Then for future use, you can mark the resistor test units with the raw numbers (7618 and 8336 in my case and any new RTD boards just tune to those.
I am pretty darn happy, and feel confident that with a little probe calibration I can get a little better, and calibrate to my NIST glass thermometer much better than I was able to before. You don't need a precision 100 ohm resistor IMHO, just get all your RTD Amps reading the same value before the RTD calc by using a couple resistors. Then for future use, you can mark the resistor test units with the raw numbers (7618 and 8336 in my case and any new RTD boards just tune to those.
Anybody ever seen this before? Everything was working fine 2 days ago, but stopped working today. Figured out it was a license issue, but I get this error when I try clicking on the activate button...
Every other time I have had the license stop working, clicking on the activate button fixed it right away.
I have port 8000 open in windows firewall, as well as the brucontrol.exe program itself.
Every other time I have had the license stop working, clicking on the activate button fixed it right away.
I have port 8000 open in windows firewall, as well as the brucontrol.exe program itself.
Unless Brucontrol is using a network loop-back as part of its authentication process, that IP address looks suspect.
It certainly isn't going to reach the Mothership...
Cheers!
It certainly isn't going to reach the Mothership...
Cheers!
That address is my local host
Exactly. My comments remain...
Cheers!
Cheers!
OP
OP
We were messing around with the license server earlier, so that might of had something to do with it. Indeed odd that it reported a look on a the local loop IP. 
Should be working OK now.
Should be working OK now.
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
I'd like to set an image for a button in UI.
For example image for arrow up and arrow down down instead of the text "Pump Up" and "Down".
If I load background image1, it appears behind the text:
I couldn't find the way to show the image instead of text. Whatever I try image stays behind almost invisible.
1) Is it possible to use images within buttons?
2) how can I change font and color of a text showed in a button?
3) is it possible to break long text in a button in 2 lines?
sorry for noob questions and thanks!
For example image for arrow up and arrow down down instead of the text "Pump Up" and "Down".
If I load background image1, it appears behind the text:
I couldn't find the way to show the image instead of text. Whatever I try image stays behind almost invisible.
1) Is it possible to use images within buttons?
2) how can I change font and color of a text showed in a button?
3) is it possible to break long text in a button in 2 lines?
sorry for noob questions and thanks!
Last edited:
OP
OP
You can't apply images to button tops right now. Will add that as an enhancement. You *may* be able to break up the text with a line feed: '\n'. I would have to test to confirm, but you would set the button display name to "LineA\nLineB".
You can add an image to a button but only the edges show so unless you want something like a yellow border, they are not much use.
I have not found any way to add line breaks in text except to add leading and trailing spaces. I was not aware of the "\N" a line break. I will have to try that.
I personally do not like buttons because of the way they work. I much prefer a switch or a Global as a switch.
These are my notes for a button:
.
I have not found any way to add line breaks in text except to add leading and trailing spaces. I was not aware of the "\N" a line break. I will have to try that.
I personally do not like buttons because of the way they work. I much prefer a switch or a Global as a switch.
These are my notes for a button:
.
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
I ran into an issue today but I can't seem to replicate it. In the script window, I'm not sure what I did but all the line numbers in that particular script disappeared. I'm guessing that I can restart the program and they will reappear, but its not really opportune at this moment to do it, so I can't confirm it. Other scripts have the numbers there, but some don't. Any one else seen this?
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
Thx.
Switch doesn't work the same. I think can't use them, as I would have to manually flip them back.
And how would u use global as a button?
I would like to click on a button and execute a script.
Last edited:
You can use a Digit Out sort of like an On/Off Button.
I have a Mega that I use just for that. It only has power but no inputs or output. Since it is not wired, it could be a simple serial connection near your computer. Or you could use any available port on any interface (Mega, ESP32 etc.), just don't wire it.
It is like a Pseudo Digital Out. It acts a lot like a button except that it is On or Off unlike a button. You can change the background depending on the state and it does display the image. you can have the state either On or OFF, but you control that text as well.
You can have it do something depending on the state.
You can always change the State of a Pseudo Digital Out or a Switch back to False after it has done it's action within the script
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
Sorry if I missed it , was there any implementation done in regards SQL db data retention?
I have no intermediate issue, just seen that mdf grows quite fast.
undocumented script state property
// Check script status
new string vSScripty
vSScripty = "Your Script Name" state
print vSScripty
// Enumerated Strings: Stopped, Paused, Running
if you load a script, it is Paused.These are the only 3 states of a script
So on the RTD platforms, a few more observations.
1 - The ambient temp of the RTD Amp will raise the raw number about 1 for every increase in degrees F. (I brought a RTD box that was in 95 ambient into conditioned space that was about 80, and the average drop in the raw number was 13)
2 - Batches of RTD Amps seem to have more effect than the brand(assumed this before, but with 16, I can say it is true.. I suggest buying double what you ever think you will need from the same vendor (I got 8 for $24.66 from " All Electronics Trading Company " on aliexpress, and just ordered 8 more, hoping I get same batch). Previously, I ordered 2 Adafruit ones (12/2017) and 6 aliexpress (8/2019 same seller as above!), and they are all over the board. the std dev is *horrible*, just scratching my head... the 8 I just bought are fantastic in comparsion.
3 - I don't know if 4-wire RTD will have this same issue, I think it will, I do not know if thermistor boards will have this same issue, but I know that 1-wire will not, it is physically impossible... I would LOVE if they added a couple extra bits to the DS18B20, I know we could add 1 bit at the expense of speed, but the DS18B20 has been around at least since 1998, someone has to have made a 14-16bit 1-wire temp sensor...
4 - I will probably limit RTD to the few places I really need tenth-of-a-degree resolution, and return to 1-wire wherever possible, hoping that statically assigned addresses is implemented for 1-wire.
(chart is resistor plugs only, no actual probes.)
1 - The ambient temp of the RTD Amp will raise the raw number about 1 for every increase in degrees F. (I brought a RTD box that was in 95 ambient into conditioned space that was about 80, and the average drop in the raw number was 13)
2 - Batches of RTD Amps seem to have more effect than the brand(assumed this before, but with 16, I can say it is true.. I suggest buying double what you ever think you will need from the same vendor (I got 8 for $24.66 from " All Electronics Trading Company " on aliexpress, and just ordered 8 more, hoping I get same batch). Previously, I ordered 2 Adafruit ones (12/2017) and 6 aliexpress (8/2019 same seller as above!), and they are all over the board. the std dev is *horrible*, just scratching my head... the 8 I just bought are fantastic in comparsion.
3 - I don't know if 4-wire RTD will have this same issue, I think it will, I do not know if thermistor boards will have this same issue, but I know that 1-wire will not, it is physically impossible... I would LOVE if they added a couple extra bits to the DS18B20, I know we could add 1 bit at the expense of speed, but the DS18B20 has been around at least since 1998, someone has to have made a 14-16bit 1-wire temp sensor...
4 - I will probably limit RTD to the few places I really need tenth-of-a-degree resolution, and return to 1-wire wherever possible, hoping that statically assigned addresses is implemented for 1-wire.
(chart is resistor plugs only, no actual probes.)
Last edited:
Decided to take your advice. I will have 8 RTDs. I ordered 16 MAX31685 from Aliexpress. I had previously got some from Adafruit but I will sell those. I will also have my Mega, Esp32 and RP-3 with the MAX31865s, and TF-4 in a conditioned space (my fermentor Cold Room. I may put in my office instead. I have not decided if my Cold Room (with a Cool Bot) will be stable or if I go Gycol for fermentation control.
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
This explains a lot. Congrats for patience and approach.
Maybe we can swap the RTD Amps, I am going to buy these precision resistors to test them, then put a piece of tape on them with the three raw numbers and the ambient temp. From there, we can add to each others collections of ones that are in the ballpark..
OP
OP
Admittedly, I have seen this and ignored it. I will log it now.
OP
OP
Yes.
Syntax:
“script” state = string
where script is the script name, state is the running property, and string is the text indicating the state of the script, which will either be “Running”, “Paused”, or “Stopped”.
Example:
Code:
if "Refrigeration Alarm" state == running
print "Script OK"
endif
sleep 5000
stop "Script 1"
OP
OP
Data is preserved for 30 days. We are working on adding more control to what data gets captured, then will allow more than 30 days.
OP
OP
Resistors themselves are sensitive to temperature changes. I assume you were measuring this change with the 100 ohm resistor in place? If not, what was tied to the terminals?
BTW, I wonder if we would see less variability with Pt1000.
these were all with carbon resistors 100(single resistor), 110(100 soldered in series to 10), and 130ohm(100 soldered to 10 soldered to 20)
The ambient change was noted when I brought a box in to my office to test it after testing out in the distillery, but same plugs were used and the new readings were all off in a very linear manner.. you would think the calibration resistor and the dummy-load resistor being the same temp would have some error correction...
OP
OP
Let the resistor sit at ambient temp for a while, then heat it with your fingers - you will indeed see a very noticeable climb. I agree that they should flush each other out, but you may be using carbon and they metal film. Carbon is more sensitive to temperature change.
yeah... I put my fingers on the 100 ohm and the BC displayed temp went *down* a few tenths... pretty much sums my whole experience... but I will get my calibration protocol documented, and it will include zeroing the amps in place where they will be used.
Maybe a reason to have any SSRs in a different enclosure
MightyOz
Local Storm Brewing
Hey BrunDog,
I am buying a UM-1-ME for my UniCon build, I want to use Tri-Clamp RTD sensors so what other assemblies do I need to buy from you for my build?
I am buying a UM-1-ME for my UniCon build, I want to use Tri-Clamp RTD sensors so what other assemblies do I need to buy from you for my build?
OP
OP
The RP-3 is a passive platform board that holds the RTD amplifiers and makes the wiring easier, so that might be a good add. We also offer the AA-2 which is the analog amplifier if you have any analog (proportional) devices that you want to control. This can also be added later if you don't have an immediate need.
MightyOz
Local Storm Brewing
I will get it now, I will need to decide on my kettles before I get into what valves I will need. I am on the fence for HERMS or RIMS and Stout or Spike since you mentioned bottom drains!
I have had SS Brewtech Mash Tuns and they hold temp very well without addition heating. I personally like a modified HERMS using a copper conterflow chiller as the Herms using a 35 g Stout MLT and small 10 g Stout Electric Brewkettle for the Radiator. Requires 2 pumps. I will be replacing all my hot side vessels with Stout. I may buy one of the SS Brewtech 20 gal Infusion Mash Tuns as we do two brews at the same time. We never do less than 10 g batches but If I do a 15 g batch, the 20 g will just work. I have never had Spike equipment but Brewer's Hardware are good as well. I do not like Blickmann weldless. The vessels are a little light. I personally would never buy anything weldless as It is just not as good, IMO.
You will need to purchase 1 RP-3 for up to 4 RTDs. You will need a MAX31865 Amp for each RTD. if you read
above, you might want to buy double the amount of MAX31865 you will ever need to get the same batch.
One wire probes are inexpensive and hook directly up the the Interface (with a resistor in the circuit). The UM-1 E has that resistor on its board so really easy to use. Mashing Wort does not need real precision. Even fermenting does not need extremely tight control. Distilling is a process where a 0.1 degree can make a difference.
You can mix and match temp probes. You can have a mix of RTD, one wire and 10KNTC probes.
As an aside, I had a lot of TC Probes. I actually prefer using a Thermowell with just a straight probe. It is that lack of needing exact precession that comes into play, I found that while it may take a little more time, they seem very stable.
You will also need a good solder iron and learn how to do through the hole soldering on the MAX 31865. You will also have to cut traces and solder some pads on them unless you get 4 wire RTDs.
MightyOz
Local Storm Brewing
I have a good soldering station and skills as I use to design and build consumer electronics for a living. I'm looking at bottom drains as BrunDog pointed out that they make clean in place better. I wanted to get custom Stout Tanks but the backlog was over 6 months when I contacted them. I can get the 20 gallon kettles with legs (in stock) but I don't want the legs to be so long and I am thinking if I have to get the long legs I might want to get the LoDo ones instead... decisions, decisions!
Similar threads
