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Eek... you may be putting 12VDC into your pin 19. You should measure the voltage out of the flowmeter and slowly turn the turbine inside to see it alternate between positive voltage and ground. If it outputs what the input voltage is, you will indeed see 12VDC on that pin. If it only outputs 5V max, then you are OK.
 
BrunDog said:
Eek... you may be putting 12VDC into your pin 19. You should measure the voltage out of the flowmeter and slowly turn the turbine inside to see it alternate between positive voltage and ground. If it outputs what the input voltage is, you will indeed see 12VDC on that pin. If it only outputs 5V max, then you are OK.
Click to expand...

Thanks, got it sorted.
QUESTION: If my formula is F = 7.5Q am I correct that the Counter Element rate is equal to F? If so, then L/m should be the elements rate/7.5 correct?
 
Yes, counter rate is F (frequency). At 7.5 pulses per sec at one liter per min means 7.5*60 = 450 pulses per liter, or 1/450 liters/pulse. Therefore you would enter a calibration for the Counter Total as a divider of 450.

Here is the math:
Frequency (Hz) = 7.5 * Q (liters/min)
liters = Q * time elapsed (seconds) / 60 (seconds/minute)
liters = (Frequency (Pulses/second) / 7.5) * time elapsed (seconds) / 60
liters = Pulses / (7.5 * 60)

Also, the rate is per second, so the Rate calibration would be a divider of 7.5.
 
Hi BC users,

Please note we posted v1.1.0.10 (Build 10). This includes:
- Predictive Hysteresis switch (to be enabled in next firmware release - please leave off for now)
- Use PWM switch on PID's & Deadbands will not be available unless the port can output PWM
- Multiple ID properties including ID, ElementID, PortID, InputPortID for scripting (this is for advanced users, and will document in the manual when ready)
- Fixes script window changing between restarts
- Fixes situation where elements move when scrolling workspace with script showing
- Fixes element name and value background colors overlapping the border
- Other minor bugs

No urgency to update, but please remember that if you haven't upgraded to the previous version (1.1.0.9), then you need to follow the product note to install the SQL server engine.
 
I just updated and ran into an issue with Digital Outputs on all interfaces (MEGA and ESP32 in my case) - BC appears to not be able to control them, just grays them out as if it can't talk to them, but my inputs and proportional outputs work fine?? Disable/Enable the element made no difference, nor did disable/enable the interface. Reverting back to 1.1.0.9 works as normal. Will try re-downloading and update again.

1.1.0.10
1597754667376.png


1.1.0.9
1597754707637.png
 
BrunDog said:
This is kinda neat. Forces inputs to be inputs and outputs to be outputs, and upside down MEGA design essentially prevents any shields, but the price is good. I ordered one to mess with it:

https://www.tindie.com/products/universalsolder/fully-loaded-diy-plc-48-io-for-arduino-mega2560/
Click to expand...

Well, I got this bad boy and was severely dissappointed to see they left out the 2x3 ICSP header!! Shame, Shame, Shame!!

That renders this essentially useless for non-serial applications until we have a MEGA format board with on-board Wi-Fi. I'm assuming Adafruit will make a Grand Central with one at some point... they made the Metro with one. Actually... the SPI pins are exposed, so you *could* connect a Wi-Fi module next to it. Still, such an easy miss!

Edit: I should have said onboard network... and forgot about the Robotdyn MEGA which has the Ethernet on board.
 
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BrunDog said:
Well, I got this bad boy and was severely dissappointed to see they left out the 2x3 ICSP header!! Shame, Shame, Shame!!

That renders this essentially useless for non-serial applications until we have a MEGA format board with on-board Wi-Fi. I'm assuming Adafruit will make a Grand Central with one at some point... they made the Metro with one. Actually... the SPI pins are exposed, so you *could* connect a Wi-Fi module next to it. Still, such an easy miss!

Edit: I should have said onboard network... and forgot about the Robotdyn MEGA which has the Ethernet on board.
Click to expand...
I like the Robot Shop Ethermega ( EtherMega Ethernet Arduino Compatible Microcontroller) Mega as the power regulator is beefed up. Says it can take up to 28 vdc input without overheating. A bit more $ than the Robodyn but a more robust one.
 
the robotdyn with POE is *excellent* IMHO... but a SonOff format device (can mount in their waterproof clear housing and power with AC) that used a stacking header ESP32 NodeMCU is my Holy grail at the moment...
 
hi , is there a thread or discussion on here about the process for integrating the ispindel with brucontrol professional ? the ispindel i have is on esp8266. i have it set up with ubidots at the minute.
 
I don’t think there is right now.
The easiest pathway I think would be to use @crane’s Arduino code to insert the data direct from the ispindel in to BruControl via Data Exchange.

I don’t have one but I think we could easily write this unless someone wants to give it a shot.
 
dubfitz said:
hi , is there a thread or discussion on here about the process for integrating the ispindel with brucontrol professional ? the ispindel i have is on esp8266. i have it set up with ubidots at the minute.
Click to expand...
The alternative that I implemented was to use brewpiless on either esp32 or esp8266 to capture the iSpindel data, and then pass it on to a node-red server, which in turn formats the data so that it can upload it through Data Exchage into Brucontrol. With the esp32 you can also capture autospunding data from the latest brewpiless firmware update. I've tried all of it and it works. If anyone is interested, PM me and I am happy to share the the links for my install of brewpiless and the node-red flow. Admitedly it's a bit of a work around, but it was the fastest way for me to accomplish what you are after given that I already had iSpindel integration. Not trying to proselytize other software, just trying to provide work arounds that hopefully help.
 
@BrunDog, When you say to hit the reset button on the Mega after flashing firmware/setting up network, does the reset button on Ethernet shield perform a reset of the mega? Its a bit hard to get to when the screw shield is mounted etc...
 
hi everyone, just wanted to say hi. Nice to meet yall. :)
I am brewing since 2010 and throughout this time I was using physical PIDs. 3 vessel system, HERMS, 70L batches.
I also integrated CraftbeerPi3 into my setup but that development seems to be not moving forward past 1+ year.(not the only reason to switch)
Now I migrated to RIMS & BruControl. TBH it's not operational yet as I am waiting for couple of missing parts, but looking froward to my first BruControl brewing day :). Until then I am reading posts from this thread and learning :)
Thanks a lot to @BrunDog, he has been amazingly helpful and fast in answering. :cool:
 
swimIan said:
Question: What is the maximum number of calls to/from the Data Exchange protocol and the unit of time?
Click to expand...
Simple answer, it depends. The more/faster CPU/memory/storage resources you have available on the BC computer, and the faster the network speed, the higher the IO throughput. The API calls are HTTP based, so I would think a couple hundred a second at a minimum with a basic computer on a wired connection.
 
RiverCityBrewer said:
Simple answer, it depends. The more/faster CPU/memory/storage resources you have available on the BC computer, and the faster the network speed, the higher the IO throughput. The API calls are HTTP based, so I would think a couple hundred a second at a minimum with a basic computer on a wired connection.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
Have you guys ever seen the Ethernet shield run for a few minutes then disconnect and start flashing? Only seems to happen when powered 12v thru VIN. USB power is working well. This is with a brand new Mega and Ethernet shield..

The only components hooked up are power supply, Mega and Ethernet shield nothing else. 12v DC to VIN Ground to 12V DC- at power supply.

I've tried with two separate power supplies, a 120v to 12V DC and a 24V to 12V DC stepdown
 

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Based on your description above, it sounds like your MEGA's regulator is overheating. See if you can touch it and feel it get very hot. This is a known problem on some of the copies. I know this is whacky sounding, but true. The regulator has to dump any excess voltage from its input to its output (12V down to 5V). Some MEGA's are well designed with an on-board sinking surface (exposed copper with connections between top and bottom) and some are not, possibly even using less robust regulators. A pic of that area might help us diagnose it, or a link to the exact one you have.

Is there anyway you can lower the voltage going into it from the 12VDC power supply? Meaning, if your power supply has an adjustment, can you make it lower (say, to 11 volts). If not, do you have a fresh 9V battery handy? If so, try it with that for a while.

You might be able to put a small adhesive heat sink on it to get it from overheating. It looks like you are using a W5100 Ethernet Shield... it might be better to switch to the W5500 which I believe uses less current too.

Also, per previous discussions on this... you should remove the screw shield and see if this behavior continues. If by some odd circumstance you have resistive short somewhere, that could also be pulling more power from the MEGA than it likes.
 
BrunDog said:
Based on your description above, it sounds like your MEGA's regulator is overheating. See if you can touch it and feel it get very hot. This is a known problem on some of the copies. I know this is whacky sounding, but true. The regulator has to dump any excess voltage from its input to its output (12V down to 5V). Some MEGA's are well designed with an on-board sinking surface (exposed copper with connections between top and bottom) and some are not, possibly even using less robust regulators. A pic of that area might help us diagnose it, or a link to the exact one you have.

Is there anyway you can lower the voltage going into it from the 12VDC power supply? Meaning, if your power supply has an adjustment, can you make it lower (say, to 11 volts). If not, do you have a fresh 9V battery handy? If so, try it with that for a while.

You might be able to put a small adhesive heat sink on it to get it from overheating. It looks like you are using a W5100 Ethernet Shield... it might be better to switch to the W5500 which I believe uses less current too.

Also, per previous discussions on this... you should remove the screw shield and see if this behavior continues. If by some odd circumstance you have resistive short somewhere, that could also be pulling more power from the MEGA than it likes.
Click to expand...
Ok I'm at the brewery today and will give this a shot.
After removing screw shield I see the W5100 calls for 9v. Just confirming this is ok. I don't have a 9v battery but I do have a 5v power supply and a 3.7v battery
 
Not sure where you see the W5100 calls for 9V. It does not in fact run on anything more than 5V. That comes from the Mega via its power regulator. I’m saying power the mega with 9V via the Vin pin instead of 12V and see if it runs ok.
5V and 3.7V are not relevant here as we are tying to see if 12V at the mega is the problem.
 
BrunDog said:
Not sure where you see the W5100 calls for 9V. It does not in fact run on anything more than 5V. That comes from the Mega via its power regulator. I’m saying power the mega with 9V via the Vin pin instead of 12V and see if it runs ok.
5V and 3.7V are not relevant here as we are tying to see if 12V at the mega is the problem.
Click to expand...
The VIN socket on Mega aligns with the 9v pin on the W5100. Since the W5100 is mounted to the mega I have to supply power through the socket on W5100 correct?
 

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clearwaterbrewer said:
I do not think the W5100 uses that pin. the official sunfounder site PCB photos look to not have that pin actually connected to the circuitry of the W5100.
Click to expand...
Curious why 12V VIN on screw shield is directly connected to the W5100 9V port.

Proceeding without the screw shield I don't see any other way to provide power directly to the Mega as the W5100 covers the power ports to the Mega.
 
clearwaterbrewer said:
I do not think the W5100 uses that pin. the official sunfounder site PCB photos look to not have that pin actually connected to the circuitry of the W5100.
Click to expand...
Edit: I see what your saying. It must just be there for stability. Since I don't have the screw shield in place, I should power through this pin since this is connected to Mega VIN port correct?
 
Yes, correct. I checked my W5100 (Ethernet Shield 1) and I see no traces going to that pin. Checking the schematic, that pin is not connected, so this makes sense. It is just there as a pass-through. The 5V power it uses comes from the MEGA. When your MEGA is powered via USB (5V), the regulator is bypassed. When it is powered by 6-12V on VIn or 7-12 on the jack, it goes through the regulator. Oooh.. which gives me an idea. The Jack has a protection diode on it... it will cause a ~0.7V drop on the input. You could power your 12V there and get the benefit of a slightly reduced voltage to the regulator.

That said, I did come across this article... might check it to see if this affects you: Arduino Ethernet W5100 – how to fix the wrong board
 
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BrunDog said:
Yes, correct. I checked my W5100 (Ethernet Shield 1) and I see no traces going to that pin. Checking the schematic, that pin is not connected, so this makes sense. It is just there as a pass-through. The 5V power it uses comes from the MEGA. When your MEGA is powered via USB (5V), the regulator is bypassed. When it is powered by 6-12V on VIn or 7-12 on the jack, it goes through the regulator. Oooh.. which gives me an idea. The Jack has a protection diode on it... it will cause a ~0.7V drop on the input. You could power your 12V there and get the benefit of a slightly reduced voltage to the regulator.

That said, I did come across this article... might check it to see if this affects you: Arduino Ethernet W5100 – how to fix the wrong board
Click to expand...
I got everything stable today with bypassing screw shield. Not sure if it's that yet, I just reistalled to check of the issue arises. The issue could be the resistor issue you linked. I do infact have 510 labeled on this resistor set.

Perhaps I'll upgrade to the 5500 to cover this issue as well as the lower draw you mentioned above.
 
BrunDog said:
If you see “510” on that resistor array, then you have the right ones.
Click to expand...
I assumed I had the wrong to be based on this excerpt from the article. Out of curiosity why isn't 510 on the list?

"The simplest method to fix the flaw is to replace the resistor set. You can use the resistors with a resistance 47 or 68 ohms (marking 470 and 680, respectively)."
 

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