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I recreated this issue in an Arduino sketch using a NodeMcu and a DS18B20. I used the OneWire Library and the DS18X20_Temperature example sketch. I first ran the sketch as is and viewed the serial monitor. Then I added an analogWrite(anotherPin, 12) at the start of the loop and reuploaded. The issue is present, with the sensor not being read, and being read intermittently. So, it seems this is an issue with the 8266.

Edit: Relevant link for those interested. Seems to be a problem with the 8266 using software PWM. https://github.com/micropython/micropython/issues/2324
 
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One other note regarding the 8266. Some pins are used during boot, such as D4 on the NodeMcu, and I had a ssr wired to it. It needs to be pulled up at boot, and I think that the ssr was acting as a pulldown resistor causing the board not to boot. If I disconnected the ssr then booted, I could plug it back in. But this could be an issue for some during a power outage, etc.
 
Is there any voltage across your neutral and ground? I assume your outlets are 3 prong, since you said your panel power on your AC Power is grounded. Are your outlets wired correctly? Meaning do you have a separate ground conductor going from your outlet to the main breaker panel? The ground and hot wire could read 120 if there is some kind of suspect wiring, like a ground to neutral jumper. Have you plugged in one of those outlet testers?

You could try to uncouple your DC circuit from your AC ground coming from your wall. Meaning, all your DC- are tied together still, but they are not tied to your earth ground coming from your AC power. If this works, then you have a problem with your house wiring I think.
I tried using different outlets in my house that I know are on different circuits. THE ISSUE HAS WENT AWAY, even with the Air conditioner plugged in. Everything is working correctly.

I am going to spend some time improving my home wiring and ill report back. To confirm, I should have 0 volts across neutral and ground? Is there an upper range here that is acceptable? Also should have 120V across Hot and Neutral and 120V across Hot and Ground?

Thankyou for the help

Is your intent to eventually use the 3 way switch for "Manual/Auto" control?



Ok 2 options come to mind here

(1) if your intent is to remove the above mentioned switch permanently, and your control voltage on the SSR is 3-32VDC then remove the relay out of the picture all together and drive the + side of the SSR with MEGA using your allocated pin D34. See if this shifts the problem to the SSR (control light blinking on/off) or corrects the issue.

(2) if your intent is to keep said switch try using one of the other relays on your Salon board temporarily moving the the wires replicating exactly as you now have wired.



Either through manufacturers spec sheet or if you have access to an Amp Clamp and measure current draw on the hot wire on start up and while running. Also if you have a clamp you can measure the approximate load on the entire circuit while everything is on...panels + AC unit. I may have missed this in an earlier post but what is the rating in (AMPS) for this circuit you are connected too?



To clarify you have tried using 2 completely different 120VAC sources? One source for the panel(s) and another 120 AC source for the AC unit?



I concur with this statement!!
Yes I plan to use the manual/auto/off switch when the issue is fully resolved. Not sure if you caught my response to Joey but I believe I have it narrowed down to faulty wiring in my house.

I have tried 2 completely different 120VAC sources tho I believe my issue is that one of these sources has been faulty wiring. I tested the outlet in my shed and neutral and hot were wired backwards. I also came across an extension cord with the same problem. All of which may be leading to the panel not working using these receptacles. I purchased a tester, I plan to fix and then try the tests you mention above. I appreciate the help.
 
I tried using different outlets in my house that I know are on different circuits. THE ISSUE HAS WENT AWAY, even with the Air conditioner plugged in. Everything is working correctly.[...]

Inductive "thumps" on a shared AC source can shoot right through unfiltered inputs to power supplies and wreak all kinds of spurious havoc. This is a well-known phenomenon that can plague all controllers - the BrewPi threads on HBT are filled with examples of 4x20 LCD screens scrambling when a compressor relay is activated.

So, if possible, power supplies for control circuits are best connected to an AC source not shared by large inductive devices...

Cheers!
 
I tried using different outlets in my house that I know are on different circuits. THE ISSUE HAS WENT AWAY, even with the Air conditioner plugged in. Everything is working correctly.

I am going to spend some time improving my home wiring and ill report back. To confirm, I should have 0 volts across neutral and ground? Is there an upper range here that is acceptable? Also should have 120V across Hot and Neutral and 120V across Hot and Ground?

Thankyou for the help


Yes I plan to use the manual/auto/off switch when the issue is fully resolved. Not sure if you caught my response to Joey but I believe I have it narrowed down to faulty wiring in my house.

I have tried 2 completely different 120VAC sources tho I believe my issue is that one of these sources has been faulty wiring. I tested the outlet in my shed and neutral and hot were wired backwards. I also came across an extension cord with the same problem. All of which may be leading to the panel not working using these receptacles. I purchased a tester, I plan to fix and then try the tests you mention above. I appreciate the help.

I would suggest you get an electrician to come look at your house. If the previous owner did some shitty wiring it could cause a fire or electrocute you and you die. You should have no voltage across the neutral and gnd with nothing drawing current on the circuit. And 120v from either to hot with nothing drawing current. The neutral and ground are connected, but only connected at the main breaker. You could either have a device on that circuit leaking to ground or the wiring is wrong causing your DC circuit to go nuts when a high load is applied because your gnd is tied to the DC circuit.
 
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Anyone using an ESP32 with more than 2 onewire probes?

Edit: my 4 OneWire sensors work fine with my mega, but with the ESP32 I am getting wrong readings. They are shifted high. My guess is there is some sort of bit shift happening. Example, I should get 60f and reading 100f. I had been reading that the normal OneWire arduino library has issues with the ESP32, and there is a version floating around the ESP32 Arduino github that fixed it for now.

Edit2: Forgot to mention, it seems to work fine with 2 probes plugged in, but when I had a third or fourth the readings get shifted. I also tried to power with 5v external supply with data pull-up to the 3.3v on the ESP32.
 
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Yep, I have an ESP32 with 2 probes connected currently, was planning on adding a 3rd at some point. Can't say I had any issues and they are tracking within a degree of each other.
 
Anyone using an ESP32 with more than 2 onewire probes?

Edit: my 4 OneWire sensors work fine with my mega, but with the ESP32 I am getting wrong readings. They are shifted high. My guess is there is some sort of bit shift happening. Example, I should get 60f and reading 100f. I had been reading that the normal OneWire arduino library has issues with the ESP32, and there is a version floating around the ESP32 Arduino github that fixed it for now.

Good to know - will need to look at it.
 
Biggest one you can fit and afford. Plastic, painted metal, or stainless steel is up to you and is dependent on your budget and ability to cut holes in it.

I’d suggest at least a 20” x 24”, depending on how much stuff you plan on using (elements and other devices).
 
any recommendations on enclosures?
If only using round holes, metal is easy to drill with cheap step bits. You can even get some with cutouts made for Pids (1/16 Din) I like the ones from Auber https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=895

Depth is also important. A 3" depth large box may not allow for the cover to close.

I would try to get a minimum of 5 " depth. Bigger is always better, and if only round holes, I prefer metal. But if using any wifi, think plastic.

Global Industries have a nice box but $$.
https://www.globalindustrial.com/product/itemKey/30562132

These are deep boxes and not 24 x 20 but still quite a lot of space. The Auber one has a back plate that is handy in wiring.

The Global has an outer clear cover and an inner solid cover where you can mount things and have them protect but visible.

I have all of my Standard SSRs relays in separate Auber Boxes with nothing else. I have my Mega 2560s in Deep Plastic Enclosures I got off Amazon. Again, depth is important to make wiring easier. I have 8 channels relays in the Global Box.

If I had to do it over, I would have got
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...MIrofc1sfC5gIVWPfjBx2Dlgc7EAQYASABEgKLivD_BwE

and put the Relay Boards and the Megas in the same enclosure. I would still put SSRs in different Boxes.

I have a 220v SSR Box, a 110v SSR box and a DC SSR Box. The 220v and 110v SSR Boxes are quite high and not easy to get to. Once they are set and working, I rarely mess with them. I Din Rail mount all the SSRs with Heat Sinks and I do get the heat sink for the top where I mounted my higher amps (element) SSRs. I can get 18 SSRS Din Rail Mounted. If you put the rails closer, you might add and addition 5 but since they were used for the BCS, 18 was over kill as I had 2 boxes. Once I decided to move to BruControl, I moved the DC SSRs to a different box. If starting out, I would have just used 8 channel relay boards for the DC side (and because they are so cheap, likely move all my DC to Boards. The only issue is that many relay boards are active Low where the BCS is Active High.

Basic Rule: Bigger is better. Hinged Lids are better. If you have the room and $, get the biggest one you can afford.
 

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I just finished the latest podcast- excited for the new release. Do we have an estimated release date?
 
Can someone provide an overview of TILT integration? From what i understand, I need the TILT device, a board (cant recall which- TF-3?) which i assume makes the conversion/connectivity for BC? What range can I expect from TILT to the board/interface?

If I run 6-8 TILT's how many boards do I need?

Who's got these for the cheapest?
 
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On a different note:
@BrunDog On the topic of onewire devices, I would like to request that instead of assigning an index value from an array that gets populated every time the system reboots, Brucontrol will store the device addresses and we assign the address the to element. This way, replacing a probe, or expanding, will not require a reshuffle. Onewire devices can just be discovered on boot, and stored. You could use a small onewire menu (like the interface menu), to discover newly plugged in devices, delete addresses, or rename them.

I think I have heard that one before!!!!
 
Can someone provide an overview of TILT integration? From what i understand, I need the TILT device, a board (cant recall which- TF-3?) which i assume makes the conversion/connectivity for BC? What range can I expect from TILT to the board/interface?

If I run 6-8 TILT's how many boards do I need?

Who's got these for the cheapest?
There is no wiring of a Tilt, just a Port. You can use ports
220
221
222
223
and
224

My guess is 5 per board.

I think there are only eight different colors so that is the maximum you may use.

Prices are consistent from suppliers when I got mine.

You would need two ESP 32s. These need to be near the fermentors (Blue Tooth) but also need to be in WiFi range. If your fermentors are in a different room (mine are), you can hard wire (Ethernet) a WiFi repeater in the fermentor room You can also get ESP 32 with an external antenna. There are also Blue Tooth Repeaters but those are also color set.
 
There is no wiring of a Tilt, just a Port. You can use ports
220
221
222
223
and
224

My guess is 5 per board.

I think there are only eight different colors so that is the maximum you may use.

Prices are consistent from suppliers when I got mine.

You would need two ESP 32s. These need to be near the fermentors (Blue Tooth) but also need to be in WiFi range. If your fermentors are in a different room (mine are), you can hard wire (Ethernet) a WiFi repeater in the fermentor room You can also get ESP 32 with an external antenna. There are also Blue Tooth Repeaters but those are also color set.
My bru control panel is wired via Ethernet, the Tilt is Bluetooth- can you explain the need for WiFi?

Any ideas on how much range I’ll get with one of these in a dual jacket fermenter. Assuming ESP32 in a plastic enclosure with internal antenna.
 
My bru control panel is wired via Ethernet, the Tilt is Bluetooth- can you explain the need for WiFi?

Any ideas on how much range I’ll get with one of these in a dual jacket fermenter. Assuming ESP32 in a plastic enclosure with internal antenna.

WiFi would be for things without wired ethernet, such as an ESP32 or Feather M0.

As for range with a commercial fermenter, you will get a few inches outside the singe wall dome. Seriously, you will have to place an ESP32 within inches of the dome, this is what they make the tilt repeater for. There is another possibility, though. I have had great luck with a single ESP32 sitting above 3 10BBL commercial fermenters that I replaced the 4" hopping port on with the 4" Lexan TC cover from Spike brewing($20). It seems the 4" cover lets enough Bluetooth signal out and bounce around to hit the ESP32 which was just hanging in the rafters (above the jacket line). Now the spikes on the readings... well, still working on convincing a certain someone to have the ESP32 collect every 2-second beacon, take 15 minutes of values, throw out the ones that are outside of the standard deviation, and plot the mean/average as a single 15 minute number... because my graphs look like this(red and purple are active rum fermentations):
upload_2019-12-20_12-35-32.png
 
Ok I see, so I would need something to enable WiFi on my Mega. I currently have Ethernet- can I stack a WiFi module on top?

No, you don't need wifi on the mega, you need Bluetooth, which it doesn't have. Easiest to just put a $5-10 ESP32 near the fermenters, it can talk to your BC PC and you BC PC controls the mega..

Theoretically you could have something with wired ethernet and Bluetooth, but I am not aware of an interface with such that is supported by BC.
 
WiFi would be for things without wired ethernet, such as an ESP32 or Feather M0.

As for range with a commercial fermenter, you will get a few inches outside the singe wall dome. Seriously, you will have to place an ESP32 within inches of the dome, this is what they make the tilt repeater for. There is another possibility, though. I have had great luck with a single ESP32 sitting above 3 10BBL commercial fermenters that I replaced the 4" hopping port on with the 4" Lexan TC cover from Spike brewing($20). It seems the 4" cover lets enough Bluetooth signal out and bounce around to hit the ESP32 which was just hanging in the rafters (above the jacket line). Now the spikes on the readings... well, still working on convincing a certain someone to have the ESP32 collect every 2-second beacon, take 15 minutes of values, throw out the ones that are outside of the standard deviation, and plot the mean/average as a single 15 minute number... because my graphs look like this(red and purple are active rum fermentations):
View attachment 657832

Good to know. You have it above the fermenters as this is the direction of the signal? Do you have experience with the repeater? Looks like they are out of stock. There’s got to be something out there (outside of the TILT repeater) that extends the Bluetooth signal.

Are the spikes typical of TILT or just specific to your current setup?
 
I have it above the fermenters as that is the path for the signal that does not have to go through 3 layers of stainless. I do not have a repeater, I have a spike brewing Lexan (clear plastic) 4" end cap on the top of the fermenter that Bluetooth signal passes through. This replaced a stainless 4" endcap, and lets the signal out. If you do not have a 3-4" port, you might try a smaller 2" port, or just place the ESP32 near the top dome of the fermenter (obviously don't touch the metal pins to the stainless fermenter) Again, I am not using a repeater.
 
My Bru control panel is wired via Ethernet, the Tilt is Bluetooth- can you explain the need for WiFi?

Any ideas on how much range I’ll get with one of these in a dual jacket fermenter. Assuming ESP32 in a plastic enclosure with internal antenna.
The WiFi is only for the ESP 32. It is only WiFi to BruControl and Blue Tooth to the Tilt. The ESP 32 needs to be near the fermentors. I have a separate room for my fermentors that is temp controlled and has Aluminum coated foam boards which the WiFi signal will not penetrate. I added a wired WiFi Extender simply to provide a WiFi Connection to my Network in the "Cold Room". I have a Tilt repeater and it will extend the Blue Tooth out side the room. The normal Tilt without the repeater is fairly weak. and it can connect to a Glycol Cooled Fermentor if the ESP is with in inches of the blow off outlet. The repeater adds meters. The WiFi will not work at all in my "Cold Room" without the wired WiFi extender.

You can only use the ESP 32 for a Tilt. You can use other pins and Ports (see wiring diagram at BruControl) on the ESP 32 for other things,, but for me that wiring is difficult in another room , so I use it only for the Tilt with some exceptions.

I have created some Digital Outs that are not wired to anything and use them in Scripts to control some things on different Workspaces instead of Button or Switch Elements. I just like the way Digital Outs look and feel for control, and since they are free on the ESP 32, I use them as fake Digital Outs to control real Elements, just like a Button or Switch Element via Scripts.


The ESP 32 only connects to BruControl via WiFi. The ESP 32 connects to the Tilt via Blue Tooth. The Mega has no Blue Tooth. The WiFi is not necessary for the Tilt except that is the ONLY way an ESP 32 connects to BruControl.

Bottom line: Tilt = ESP 32!

The wired WiFi extender is only because the ESP 32 is out of range of WiFi signal to the Network.

I also have an Echo Dot in my "Cold Room" that needs the wired WiFi extender to connect.

Once again, there is no physical wiring (or Pins) used with the ESP 32, only Ports 220-224 when using a Tilt.

There are 8 Tilt colors so you can have a max of 8 on the same BruControl. You cannot have two of the same colored Tilts on the same BruControl.

The Tilt is easy to add and you can easily move from Fermentor to Fermentor (prior to fermentation) as it just floats in the Wort. Once in, you need to leave until after you rack. I remove mine before using the Bottom Butterfly Valve. If you were using six fermentors at the same time, you would need 6 Tilts.

You can also simply use the Tilt App on a smart phone but then you cannot use BruControl to tell you when Fermentation is done,
 
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So I’ll need to install the ESP-32 near the fermenters and run a signal wire to the Mega. Can I install an ESP-32 inside the BC panel to communicate with the ESP-32 at the fermenters thus eliminating the signs wiring?

Does the computer that is running BC need Bluetooth as well?
 
So I’ll need to install the ESP-32 near the fermenters and run a signal wire to the Mega. Can I install an ESP-32 inside the BC panel to communicate with the ESP-32 at the fermenters thus eliminating the signs wiring?

Does the computer that is running BC need Bluetooth as well?

No. You will need to power your ESP32 with a 5v USB charger. The ESP32 connects to brucontrol over your WiFi. There is no wire to your mega.
 
No. You will need to power your ESP32 with a 5v USB charger. The ESP32 connects to brucontrol over your WiFi. There is no wire to your mega.

Ah understood. Sorry that took so long. I was thrown off with the mention of the ports that are compatible with TILT. Looks like I missed a few posts as well.

Thanks for the help all.
 
The WiFi is only for the ESP 32. It is only WiFi to BruControl and Blue Tooth to the Tilt. The ESP 32 needs to be near the fermentors. I have a separate room for my fermentors that is temp controlled and has Aluminum coated foam boards which the WiFi signal will not penetrate. I added a wired WiFi Extender simply to provide a WiFi Connection to my Network in the "Cold Room". I have a Tilt repeater and it will extend the Blue Tooth out side the room. The normal Tilt without the repeater is fairly weak. and it can connect to a Glycol Cooled Fermentor if the ESP is with in inches of the blow off outlet. The repeater adds meters. The WiFi will not work at all in my "Cold Room" without the wired WiFi extender.

You can only use the ESP 32 for a Tilt. You can use other pins and Ports (see wiring diagram at BruControl) on the ESP 32 for other things,, but for me that wiring is difficult in another room , so I use it only for the Tilt with some exceptions.

I have created some Digital Outs that are not wired to anything and use them in Scripts to control some things on different Workspaces instead of Button or Switch Elements. I just like the way Digital Outs look and feel for control, and since they are free on the ESP 32, I use them as fake Digital Outs to control real Elements, just like a Button or Switch Element via Scripts.


The ESP 32 only connects to BruControl via WiFi. The ESP 32 connects to the Tilt via Blue Tooth. The Mega has no Blue Tooth. The WiFi is not necessary for the Tilt except that is the ONLY way an ESP 32 connects to BruControl.

Bottom line: Tilt = ESP 32!

The wired WiFi extender is only because the ESP 32 is out of range of WiFi signal to the Network.

I also have an Echo Dot in my "Cold Room" that needs the wired WiFi extender to connect.

Once again, there is no physical wiring (or Pins) used with the ESP 32, only Ports 220-224 when using a Tilt.

There are 8 Tilt colors so you can have a max of 8 on the same BruControl. You cannot have two of the same colored Tilts on the same BruControl.

The Tilt is easy to add and you can easily move from Fermentor to Fermentor (prior to fermentation) as it just floats in the Wort. Once in, you need to leave until after you rack. I remove mine before using the Bottom Butterfly Valve. If you were using six fermentors at the same time, you would need 6 Tilts.

You can also simply use the Tilt App on a smart phone but then you cannot use BruControl to tell you when Fermentation is done,

Thank you for the detailed response. This helps a lot.
 
I think you have it now... to summarize: You purchase an ESP32 (links to $5-10 ones that work are in this thread) and use the firmware .bat file to program it via usb the first time(after that, you can update firmware OTA or Over the Air). then you use the firmware tool to set the WiFi SSID and password and dhcp or static address. Then in BC, you add the ESP as an 'interface' and then add a 'device' with the logical 'port' number mentioned above for the tilt... but wait... there is more! now you have a logical port, but it is for BOTH SG and temp, you set which one is 'primary'(larger number in the display) and for both you can set typical things like digits(for SG, you want 3 digits and for temp, it does not matter, because you only get whole digits, so I actually control temp with something more accurate like an RTD that can read tenths of a degree...... Finally, you write a script to turn the heating/cooling on/off, because as far as I know, you cannot use BC hysteresis because the actor and the input are on different interfaces..
 
Is there a procedure to perform RTD calibration in the most efficient manner?

edit: I am currently on 3rd round and fairly close, I did adjusted offset at 32F, then multiplier at 170ish, then redid offset at 32F, then redid multiplier at 170ish
 
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