interesting, just saw this seeed studio Wio Terminal: ATSAMD51 Core with BLE 5.0 & Wi-Fi 2.4G/5G Dev Board on amazon for $38.99
BruControl: Brewery control & automation software
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This is another nice one, with a built-in power supply, but just one relay: Relay Module, ESP8266 WiFi Relay Switch Module ESP-12F Development Board AC 220V DC 12V Remote Control Smart Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XBW38J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_PP5XFbY4MW3BF
For a 240 vac element. Could I have one regular SSR Like a (TE SSR-240D50 ) for one leg to be ON and then something like a CRYDOM MCPC1250C proportional (0-10 V){with an AA-2} control the other leg as a PID?
My script would turn on the regular SSR as a Digital Out and then have the CRYDOM MCPC1250C as a PID. In the past I used Hysteresis and an DPST Electrical Contactor to control the Element with a 2 degree swing. I did that because I did not like have a Hot Leg to the vessel when I was not heating it. In this case, it would only have the hot leg when it was heating. I am not talking about controlling the Digital Out from the PID, But just turn it "True" then Turn the "PID" output to "True".
I understand 110vac very well but not as well for 220.
My script would turn on the regular SSR as a Digital Out and then have the CRYDOM MCPC1250C as a PID. In the past I used Hysteresis and an DPST Electrical Contactor to control the Element with a 2 degree swing. I did that because I did not like have a Hot Leg to the vessel when I was not heating it. In this case, it would only have the hot leg when it was heating. I am not talking about controlling the Digital Out from the PID, But just turn it "True" then Turn the "PID" output to "True".
I understand 110vac very well but not as well for 220.
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Yes you can do that. Another more common implementation is to use a 2-pole relay to turn on/off both legs and then use a single SSR on one of the legs for temperature control. The idea here is that when an SSR fails it will fail with the output on. A relay will fully isolate both legs so any SSR failure will not result in power being applied to one or both legs of the element.
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Would I be able to use something like this with Brucontrol to drive a servo motor? I have a HopsBoss that I haven’t been able to get up and running with a NodeMCU and the Data Exchange framework. I’m curious about other options to try.
Esp8266 motor driver shield
Esp8266 motor driver shield
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shorter link to device mentioned, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077WTTTFH/
I think not without custom firmware, the best bet to integrate into BC is to make it so a single analog or digital output can drive a discrete motor controller that can take that analog or 1-channel digital signal an perform the action. Basically, make it so a knob or switch can control it, then have BC control that knob or switch.
edit - looking at the chip on the drive board, the L293D, Pins 2 and 7 connect to CPU outputs and 3 and 6 to motor inputs.. then you output 0 to pin 2 and high to pin 7 for rotation one direction, and the reverse for the other direction. You can use PWM to control the speed of the motors. I am not sure how the board it wired, but it appears to have lots of jumpers to do various things.
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I think either will 'run a motor' from control in BruControl, but you will be in charge of positioning accuracy...
kcinpdx
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Hi all - I’ve been reading through the thread and while I’m interested in moving platforms, it is a bit overwhelming for me. I’m wondering if anyone has replaced a Pi 3b+ running CBPI 3 in a Hosehead 5 BC to an ESP 32 running brucontrol. It seems like a fairly easy switch, but I don’t know what I don’t know. I’m fed up w cbpi, but the other components in the hosehead are solid and seems like they could be repurposed.
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This is correct. We've played with adding the stepper motor logic tot he FW... might be a reason.
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I responded to your email, but I think it is a good idea to get some opinions of anyone with experience doing something similar.
I moved from a BCS to BruControl with no hiccups other than the learning curve for BruControl. l am not familiar with the Hosehead box, but since it probably uses SSR or Proportional Controllers to activate the Elements, it would likely be fairly straight forward to convert. You may have to replace some of the control wiring and possibly the SSR to Proportional Controllers if you need true PWM or True PID, although for Brewing Beer Hysteresis or Duty Cycle are good enough.
Suggestion for 1.9 Beta
The new Enable Button Visibility on the Device Element Appearance General Dialog should start with Default with the Default added to the Environment Element Appearance Defaults Dialog:
All existing Device Elements and any newly created Device Elements should have Default as the choice.
The new Enable Button Visibility on the Device Element Appearance General Dialog should start with Default with the Default added to the Environment Element Appearance Defaults Dialog:
All existing Device Elements and any newly created Device Elements should have Default as the choice.
exoticatom
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Is it possible to connect Adafruit #292 LCD backpack / 20x4 character LCD to esp32-WROOM-32U (38 pin version) module ?
Noob question, where are SDA and SCL ?
Not sure 36 pin (GPIO 22) SCL, and 32 pin (GPIO 21) SDA ?
Noob question, where are SDA and SCL ?
Not sure 36 pin (GPIO 22) SCL, and 32 pin (GPIO 21) SDA ?
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I don’t think we tested it with ESP32, but those pins are correct and it *should* work. If you test it please report back. We can test if needed but I need to check to see if we have the LCD on hand.
exoticatom
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thanks will give it a try
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exoticatom
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Nice! Thanks for testing and reporting back. I personally prefer the info on the workspace but these are great when you need quick data available elsewhere.
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Hi all. Hoping to get the next beta update, including the new profile element uploaded at the end of this week.
in the meantime, I was exchanging ideas for a inexpensive / universal interface board with another user and thought I’d open up up for feedback and requests. Current thinking:
in the meantime, I was exchanging ideas for a inexpensive / universal interface board with another user and thought I’d open up up for feedback and requests. Current thinking:
- Headers to plug in a micro... could be Feather format or ESP32 development board
- 4x RTD amplifiers. Thinking on-board but could be headers for swaps and $ reductions
- Screw terminals for I/O connectivity
- Jumpers for pull-ups for I2C and 1-wire
- High current drivers to drive DC devices / relays / valves / solenoids / pumps. Maybe 4 or 8 channels
- Power supply? Could be DC-DC or if we wanna get crazy 120/240 VAC universal input
- Mount. Could be DIN rail carrier or other mini-enclosure.
I would suggest dip switches over jumpers. Most people don't have a supply of jumpers and they can get lost.
exoticatom
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Coming from CBPI3 world here, so what comes to my mind as inexpensive and simple:
- One wire for sure
- headers for MAX board amplifier. 2 or 3, not the full boards, 4 might be overkill.
- Power supply 12 with DC-DC- Input 12V, output 5 and 24
- 2 channel Relays 10A
- 8 channel driver like ULN2803
- ESP sounds really cool.
I would be nice that adding additional board is planned, so it's like you stack them and extend your brewery. One ESP32 is a good start but I think there are not too many GPIOs (was it 12? )
- Monitor light - please add flashing light showing that interface is connected to brew control and data is flowing
Just thinking loud.
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Agreed. Mistyped above. We use DIPs in the UniShields and would here as well. Jumpers are cheaper though.
When I had the BCS, I wrote some HTML to display something like this data on a large screen (40 inch). That way, I could see it from across the room. Hopefully with Node Red, I will try it again once I get my Brewery up again.
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I like the ideas written above. My wishlist would add screw terminals for 3-4 one wire probe. I think at least 8 high current drivers would necessary and bare pins/terminals for any unused interface.
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Good point - 1-wire is kinda a PITA to terminate multiple probes. Twisting copper to jam into one block isn’t a good approach. Perhaps we use a three-tiered block set, though they tend to be pricy for what you get.
It would be great if we can get a way to display different workspaces remotely. Then you wouldn't need to do any coding outside of a Brucontrol script to accomplish the same thing. My raspberry pints is waiting to be replaced.
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What about an add-on onewire shield?
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Possible. Would be a lot of empty copper though since 1W only needs a resistor and some terminals.
You who can solder can worry about copper. Ease of connection for me! I have stayed away from 0ne Wire due to the "numbering" in replacing a probe. The are certainly accurate enough for most hot side processes and very little $.
- ESP is super inexpensive and ubiquitous (I love the Wemos D32pro with tft port, but they could stop making it tomorrow...)
- RTD amp boards are kinda bulky, and require mods, on-board wired for 3-wire is my preference. 4 needed, 8 is overkill
- Screw terminals for rtd and 1-wire should be tiny, not the ginormous ones on the RP-3
- jumpers are great, anyone that has a sunfounder relay board or worked on x86 PC's likely has dozens if not, you can make one with a chunk of stacking header, or visit a grey-haired neighbor
- 4 channels if hi-power seems fine, buy more units if you need more...
- powering:
- on-board ESP32 usb if no hi-power
- USB on-board with ample power supply if using hi-power
- if 120/240VAC is wanted, maybe leave the open holes for the possibility of the user adding a Hi-link HLK-PM03 AC-DC 220V to 3.3V Step Down Buck Isolated Power Supply Module and some screw headers for AC?
- Mounting - din rail joles liek RP-3, and add hole pattern matching the sonoff TH/Dual PCB dimesnions to mount in their inexpensive, $4 IP66 waterproof case
other comments...
- yes, ESP has lower number of GPIO, but BruControl can have dozens of these, unlike CBP3
- 1-wire should not have multiple connections at the interface, that is star pattern and is not what 1-wire is best at, let the user do that with terminal blocks or solder... try to get 1-wire users to make a chain, not a star....
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You says it better than me. Good points made!
I have 3 wire and 4 wire RTD Probes, so any RTD would need a jumper or DIP. I think screw shields are great but on your UNI interfaces, they are not open enough in my mind. Any screw shields should be easy to access when installed in an enclosure. While smaller boards are better, RTDs integrated with an Interface would be great. My issue with the ESP-32 is the number of GPIO and lack of Ethernet.
what is the accuracy drop of using a 4-wire as a three wire? 3 to 2 is pretty big, but 4-3 is not that big right? 4-wire seem to be very uncommon now as far as what I see out there... and the wiring change is not really like one jumper, it is like three per RTD. I think 4-wire are more used in Laboratory and NIST-calibration type environments here is a doc: https://reotemp.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/TB3-4WIRE-06143-Wirevs4-WireRTD.pdf
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The UniShields are designed that way because the MEGA format unfortunately has the female headers on the top and no male pins underneath. So the only way [we could figure it out] was to suspend the micro under the riser board. We could have used headerless boards, but those are proprietary. Hear you on access, and we had to make trade-offs, but honestly once you have it set up, you shouldn't need to access anything underneath the shield or on the base.
Edit: I wish we could see a micro with a common form factor that supports that many I/O!
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Agreed. We would still support them with jumpers rather than solder pads if we built them into the board.
I am surprised no one has made a screw shield for a mega where it is easy to stack rather than the riser headers. The UNI I had all wired that was lost had extra wire attached and run to a common area where it was easily accessible. Wire is cheap and running one set of wires or two sets is about the same. Since I will have open walls to run the new ones, it will be easy. Just have to mark them well. Since I am planning on two Megas (one not wired), an ESP-32 and one UNI Grand Central, I will have extra GPIOs. I am going to use the UNI mostly for valve control on my manifold. I will be using mostly 2 way CR-05 SS Ball Valves. There are one or two places where a 3 way might work, but I have some custom Double Tees and use the valves as connectors and spacers. All of my vessels will be interconnected with a semi permanent manifold. I had one (with manual valves) and it was easy to CIP and on the Hot Side. The fittings and the Cold side of my Plate Chiller were removed and cleaned in boiling water (Just a TEE, a Probe, and a TC to 1/2 NPT fitting) after a Brew.
I am pouring concrete this next week and have added a large floor drain with a sloped floor under the Brewery. To me "Brewing is a wet process!"
the best advice I can ever give anyone building a brewery on an existing floor:
Flood the floor with a couple hundred gallons and see where it goes... then cut and pour your brewery floor there... then the entire building will then survive a large spill with ease and you won't be mopping up puddles of sticky wort on the other side of the building underneath lots of stuff...
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I agree, unfortunately it’s not that easy. Another challenge beyond what I noted above is the mega has headers that run the perimeter of the board. This is highly inefficient use of space, and requires that anything stacked on top has to hold the circuits inside or outside that perimeter. For the driver board, to accommodate the number of I/O wanted, we needed the blank space.
If you stack boards, you have to maintain the header format. Each board adds a lot of height to maintain the standard and we could add output drivers in blocks but again that seems inefficient because you would need a separate screw shield first, then output boards, then specialty boards (eg RTD) then the network shield. Kinda not the right way to do it. The Automation Direct PLC manages this better with a side by side design.
Wire size recommendations.
Since I will shortly start buying supplies:
I will be using Screw Shields and a UNI-1 Grand Central (Screw Shield as well). I once read somewhere that 18 awg was the best wire size for Robotics. I know some people use Ethernet (24 or 23 awg) cable for control or sensor wires.
I plan to run individual sensor wires (4 wire RTDs, 2 Wire for 10KNTC and One Wire Probes. These will be shielded cables and likely in metal conduit. I will likely also have one pressure sensor.
My control wires to SSRs will likely be 5 or 8 wire cables to SSRs or Proportional Controllers in a separate enclosures. I plan to have a 220 v locking enclosure, a 110 v locking enclosure and a DC enclosure for SSRs/Proportional Controllers.
I will also be running cable to CR05 valves (5 WIRE) 24VDC 5 WATTS.
I want the wires to fit the screw shields without issues but also use the largest practical wire.
I searched the web and found lots on Bread Boards and Arduino Headers, but nothing on the screw shield wire sizing.
Any Suggestions?
Since I will shortly start buying supplies:
I will be using Screw Shields and a UNI-1 Grand Central (Screw Shield as well). I once read somewhere that 18 awg was the best wire size for Robotics. I know some people use Ethernet (24 or 23 awg) cable for control or sensor wires.
I plan to run individual sensor wires (4 wire RTDs, 2 Wire for 10KNTC and One Wire Probes. These will be shielded cables and likely in metal conduit. I will likely also have one pressure sensor.
My control wires to SSRs will likely be 5 or 8 wire cables to SSRs or Proportional Controllers in a separate enclosures. I plan to have a 220 v locking enclosure, a 110 v locking enclosure and a DC enclosure for SSRs/Proportional Controllers.
I will also be running cable to CR05 valves (5 WIRE) 24VDC 5 WATTS.
I want the wires to fit the screw shields without issues but also use the largest practical wire.
I searched the web and found lots on Bread Boards and Arduino Headers, but nothing on the screw shield wire sizing.
Any Suggestions?
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