Bru Gear

[user 160740]

I haven't received mine yet, so I'm assuming I'm getting the new one.

How is yours working as far as having the ports on top? Any issues with a pump? I know it shouldn't but just looking for hands on feedback.

It's a slight pain in the butt, as the kettles are tall and it's difficult to remove the lid (especially while in use and full of hot water). You'll also likely want to attach some elbows onto the TC fittings on the top of the lid so you don't kink your hoses. More elbows == more restriction, so expect slightly slower flow rates (really shouldn't matter with re-circulation anyway).

Interested to see what the new design is, I think it's just longer horizontal connection tubes to the lid to drop it further into the HLT. If you have an electric HLT, the element will be in the way and the coil can't go down that far. This is another reason the 'attached to wall' design is better, you can make a gap in the coil and slide the element into it, so you have a couple inches of coil below the element. Can't do it with this design even if it was a taller coil as you wouldn't be able to remove the lid without removing the element.

 

[Brugear]

We were told about the thread and wanted to join and answer questions and address issues.

During 2014 we launched a new business with lofty goals, to take on the established vendors and bring a high value and high quality product to market. In hindsight we took on too much, during kickstarter we ended up with 85 different reward levels to accommodate all the requests from the supporters, this lead to way too many sku's and lead to delays, the suggestions were good, our ability to deliver on all of them was not, so apologies again to all the initial supporters who ended up getting their rewards significantly after our target dates.

We definitely had our learning lessons in terms of shipping, we've repackaged and changed how we ship products to avoid any scratching if you order false bottoms, we've shipped a bunch of products successfully into Europe recently and had good feedback.

We've also changed the design around the HLT HERMS coils and the false bottoms, listening to feedback and changing suppliers and designs to get to a better place. The coils are much tighter and sit just above the ball valve and if you have one the electric element, so less water is needed to cover them. As we've discussed a number of times getting tri clovers double sided into kettles of this size is a huge problem, so going out the side isn't practical with tri clovers, on the commercial kettles you have a lot more real estate to achieve a decent sanitary weld that's not available at the bottom of a 10 gallon kettle.

We're working on our communications, they have been poor in some cases especially where we were handling exceptions that the initial system we used didn't track well, we had been overwhelmed by the demand, and frankly the 101 ways everyone can communicate with a supplier (This forum being just one example) and apologize that we didn't do a better job and caused some frustrations, we've installed a new CRM which you access thru the web site and we're working on getting quick answers to everyone's questions.

We're going to be updating the web with new product status this week, the long awaited dip tubes are going to be added along with a number of new tri clover fittings. Check out www.bru-gear.com

Thanks to all of our early supporters for your patience, we're going to be at NHC so feel free to stop by and see us and let us know how we can get better.

Cheers,

Phil

 

[Jaybird]

So I took it upon myself to call Phil this morning and just let him know about the thread here. Glad to see he chimed in with some answers for you guys.

I have received a number of PM's about the Bru Gear stuff on our site and the Tri Clover dip tubes. I think I have replied to everyone thus far. If I missed you let me know.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Photopilot]

I have received a number of PM's about the Bru Gear stuff on our site and the Tri Clover dip tubes. I think I have replied to everyone thus far. If I missed you let me know.

Cheers
Jay

Hi Jay, why don't you describe here what you have going for options for Bru Gear kettles. I am still outfitting mine and would like to know.


Just to follow up on a post I made earlier about whether the pots were annealed or not. I was asking because I had Brewers Hardware which is close by my work customize my brew pots. They had experienced with other non annealed pots meant that the pot ripped when trying to punch out a hole and therefore costs more to weld.

Without any hassle or extra costs Brewers Hardware was able to create a a 2" triclover to accommodate their heating element triclover enclosure. It was finished beautifully. Also part of my order was a 20G HLT with the HERMS coil. The early version of the Herms coil that was way too short so you could only use it when the HLT was topped off. I found at Brewers Hardware 6" 1.5 triclover extension that works perfectly with my HLT to get the HERMS coil within an inch of the bottom of the HLT. They also have 3" in stock, I imagine 4, and 5" are also available elsewhere. So with 2 triclover extensions and 2 clamps you can drop down your HERMS coil to the bottom of whichever HLT you have.

Now I need to build my stand and get the new gear brewing.

 

[Jaybird]

Hi Jay, why don't you describe here what you have going for options for Bru Gear kettles. I am still outfitting mine and would like to know.

Gladly..
I worked with Phil to design a False Bottom system that will work for all their kettles. I have also been working with many of Phils customers to design and build dip tube systems AND false bottom systems that will also work with the Tri Clover ports Phil has welded on his kettles.
My shop does a BOATLOAD of builds for brewing and kettle companies all over the world, like Spike, Bubbas Barrels, More Beer, Northern brewer, SS Brewing technologies and of course Bru Gear. I dont build the kettles I simply assist those companies in building a better system for their kettles. We LOVE custom builds and work very hard at helping customers get what they need for their kettles. Sometimes we make it a stock part, sometimes not. Either way everyone wins. Its our goal. If you have an idea or something you need built for your kettle let me know I am happy to help.

Cheers
Jay

 

[AF1HomeBrew]

Either way everyone wins. Its our goal. If you have an idea or something you need built for your kettle let me know I am happy to help.

Cheers
Jay

Refreshing to see a company that wants everyone to win. When I get a chance I will definitely be ordering some Jaybird stuff for my 20G Bru-Gear kettle.

 

[Gus_13]

So I took it upon myself to call Phil this morning and just let him know about the thread here. Glad to see he chimed in with some answers for you guys.

I have received a number of PM's about the Bru Gear stuff on our site and the Tri Clover dip tubes. I think I have replied to everyone thus far. If I missed you let me know.

Cheers
Jay

Thanks Jay for all your help! Looking forward to getting all my stuff together!

 

[user 160740]

I found at Brewers Hardware 6" 1.5 triclover extension that works perfectly with my HLT to get the HERMS coil within an inch of the bottom of the HLT. They also have 3" in stock, I imagine 4, and 5" are also available elsewhere. So with 2 triclover extensions and 2 clamps you can drop down your HERMS coil to the bottom of whichever HLT you have

Are you using the HLT with an electric heating element? I may have to go this route and get triclover extensions (expensive, and more to disassemble/clean, but might be the easiest route), and if the 6" works for you without interfering with the heating element I may take the same path.

 

[Jaybird]

Refreshing to see a company that wants everyone to win. When I get a chance I will definitely be ordering some Jaybird stuff for my 20G Bru-Gear kettle.

Well I totally look forward to working with you on your project.

Thanks Jay for all your help! Looking forward to getting all my stuff together!

Ohh man my pleasure Gus. Your stuff is built and will ship in a few hours.

Here is a picture of 2 of the 3 systems you bought Gus.

Cheers
Jay

 

[user 160740]

Gladly..

Jay,

Is it possible to list out the parts you sell that are known to work with Bru-Gear kettles? I think that was the intention of the original request above. A lot of us are looking to fill in the gaps to make these systems fully-functional, feedback for you has been positive, and if we have known-working parts with our Bru-Gear setups it makes it an easy win for both sides.

A short list that comes to mind:
* dip/pickup tube
* hop strainer (that fits that diptube for the BK)
* whirlpool arm
* "fix" for the old-style HERMS coil (triclamp extensions, anything else etc)

and any other accessories/upgrades/enhancements etc that you offer.

Cheers!

 

[Jaybird]

Jay,

Is it possible to list out the parts you sell that are known to work with Bru-Gear kettles? I think that was the intention of the original request above. A lot of us are looking to fill in the gaps to make these systems fully-functional, feedback for you has been positive, and if we have known-working parts with our Bru-Gear setups it makes it an easy win for both sides.

A short list that comes to mind:
* dip/pickup tube
* hop strainer (that fits that diptube for the BK)
* whirlpool arm
* "fix" for the old-style HERMS coil (triclamp extensions, anything else etc)

and any other accessories/upgrades/enhancements etc that you offer.

Cheers!

Sure
Really the only 2 MAYBE 3 things we build for those kettles right now is the False Bottoms that can be and are being used also as hop filters and the dip tubes. The dip tubes can be used as whirlpool arms as well I would think. I don't really see any reason why not. I have not looked at the old style HERMS coil but I am sure we can come up with something in house. Why dont you shoot me some picts to my email or just post them here and we can all discuss what you guys would like to see and lets create something together.
Thoughts?
Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Just a thought here...
I was looking at the tri clover HERMS system that Phil put on the lids and needing to get the 90* bend I wonder if the dip tube bend would work? Just attach your 1/2" tubing with a hose clamp and your off to the races. I can even make these that are shorter and only 1 tri clover cap to attach to the outside if you want. Nice gentle 90* bend. Just a thought.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Gus_13]

Well I totally look forward to working with you on your project.



Ohh man my pleasure Gus. Your stuff is built and will ship in a few hours.

Here is a picture of 2 of the 3 systems you bought Gus.

Cheers
Jay

Boom! Looking forward to getting them in. I'll have to start assembly of my whole system when I get back from Chicago this weekend. Then all I'll have left is my HERMS coil. Ready to start firing off some brews with it!

 

[Photopilot]

Are you using the HLT with an electric heating element? I may have to go this route and get triclover extensions (expensive, and more to disassemble/clean, but might be the easiest route), and if the 6" works for you without interfering with the heating element I may take the same path.

My plan is to get a heat stick from Brew Harware hot rod stick.

My brew kettle will have a 240V 5500 Watt element installed. I will use a 120V hot rod stick to supplement the heat in the brew pot then move it to the HLT to keep the water in there up to temp during mash . Then back to the brew pot to help get the wort up to boil. I have a 6 inch extension to the HERMs coil but maybe have to use an 3" to accommodate the Hot Rod stick when it arrives.

 

[Gus_13]

Dip tubes came in and look great! You did well on the design Jay! I have another idea of something for the return port/whirlpool that I'll email you about. Thanks again for letting me know you guys were doing these!

 

[Maddhadder]

I hope this is ok, keeping with the Bru Gear theme. I have the 10 Gallon kettle, which came with a 6" Tri-Clover Thermowell. I messaged them about using the thermometer without the thermowell, just a female NPT fitting, as it sticks way into the kettle and is a pain with my IC. I got a quick response from them, so the line of communication is working. That being said, they recommended still using a thermowell, just a shorter one. Has any one shortened an existing one? I'm not really looking to buy a new thermowell and have a 6" one sitting around collecting dust. Thats $ that could go to a new dip tube from NorCal! I asked this in a new thread a bit ago but got no responses, thought I'd take a shot here. Thanks-Kevin

 

[mors]

I would guess you could cut it to whatever size you want and crimp the end together and silver solder it... though you will also need a thermometer to match the new size (or use an external one with a probe that will fit in there)

 

[Jaybird]

I hope this is ok, keeping with the Bru Gear theme. I have the 10 Gallon kettle, which came with a 6" Tri-Clover Thermowell. I messaged them about using the thermometer without the thermowell, just a female NPT fitting, as it sticks way into the kettle and is a pain with my IC. I got a quick response from them, so the line of communication is working. That being said, they recommended still using a thermowell, just a shorter one. Has any one shortened an existing one? I'm not really looking to buy a new thermowell and have a 6" one sitting around collecting dust. Thats $ that could go to a new dip tube from NorCal! I asked this in a new thread a bit ago but got no responses, thought I'd take a shot here. Thanks-Kevin

What length do you need Kevin?

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Dip tubes came in and look great! You did well on the design Jay! I have another idea of something for the return port/whirlpool that I'll email you about. Thanks again for letting me know you guys were doing these!

Excellent Gus Glad to hear.. Man you have got to post up a picture of this in your Bru Gear kettle for me. I am dying to see it.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Gus_13]

Excellent Gus Glad to hear.. Man you have got to post up a picture of this in your Bru Gear kettle for me. I am dying to see it.

Cheers
Jay

I'll be working on it this weekend I hope. I'll get some pictures of it all!

 

[Gus_13]

Here's some pics for reference. Jay has the distance perfect for the two TC couplings to work great. These even work with the false bottoms from Bru Gear! Well done sir. I'll be ordering some more things from you. I'll need need something like this for my return circulation on my HLT.

Thanks again!

View attachment 1430865727927.jpg

View attachment 1430865741997.jpg

View attachment 1430865750864.jpg

 

[Jaybird]

Here's some pics for reference. Jay has the distance perfect for the two TC couplings to work great. These even work with the false bottoms from Bru Gear! Well done sir. I'll be ordering some more things from you. I'll need need something like this for my return circulation on my HLT.

Thanks again!

YES!!!! I LOVE to see a plan come together! Thanks for posting the picts Gus!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Gus_13]

Got a little closer to having everything ready. Built my table but it turned out to be a little tall on the casters so I'll be removing those for a little while. Got the rest of my stuff on the way and need to add one more pump to the system. Then it will be a matter of mounting the control panel and off to brewing!

View attachment 1431353508860.jpg

 

[user 160740]

Got a little closer to having everything ready. Built my table but it turned out to be a little tall on the casters so I'll be removing those for a little while. Got the rest of my stuff on the way and need to add one more pump to the system. Then it will be a matter of mounting the control panel and off to brewing!

Very nice, interested to see the final setup and how it goes. Still trying to find a better solution for the lid HERMS coil.

 

[davidgaines]

Got a little closer to having everything ready. Built my table but it turned out to be a little tall on the casters so I'll be removing those for a little while. Got the rest of my stuff on the way and need to add one more pump to the system. Then it will be a matter of mounting the control panel and off to brewing!

This is awesome. I'm all about having my vessels look the same, so I'm going to order 2 more 10 gallon ProBoilers, both electric capable versions so that they have the added ferrule.

Bru-Gear actually released a dip-tube on their site now. It may be the one that JayBird makes. I'm going to order one first from JayBird and NorCal, then from BruGear if we can work out something on the shipping.

 

[brian4508]

Finally got my herms coil yesterday. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431512675.264693.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431512704.461965.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431512724.149335.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431512759.146060.jpg

 

[user 160740]

Finally got my herms coil yesterday.

I like those 90's on top, where'd you get them? I imagine I'd need them to stop the hoses from kinking.

 

[Gus_13]

Very nice, interested to see the final setup and how it goes. Still trying to find a better solution for the lid HERMS coil.

I got my HERMS in and I'm getting some of the TC fittings from BrewHardware to put on the top. I will link them below. I already run a lot of his stuff in my system and old AG system.

His TC to camlock parts should make it easy.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm

I then use the BL kit to connect my hose and have the 90 angle I need.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cambl.htm

 

[Maddhadder]

What length do you need Kevin?



Cheers

Jay

Sorry for the delay in responding, I kept forgetting to take pictures.

Jay, I'm thinking a 3" thermowell? View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431533497.309957.jpg
Here it is into the kettle.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1431533804.918998.jpg
Here is the thermometer next to the thermowell showing approximately how much longer it is than it needs to be.

I'm assuming it really doesn't need to stick that far into the kettle correct?

Thanks for you time as always! Cheers-Kevin

 

[user 160740]

I got my HERMS in and I'm getting some of the TC fittings from BrewHardware to put on the top. I will link them below. I already run a lot of his stuff in my system and old AG system.

His TC to camlock parts should make it easy.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm

I then use the BL kit to connect my hose and have the 90 angle I need.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cambl.htm

I like that solution, a lot cheaper than a TC 90 and hose barb, and I can use the camlock's I already have. Thanks!

 

[brian4508]

I like those 90's on top, where'd you get them? I imagine I'd need them to stop the hoses from kinking.

Bru gear has them

 

[Jaybird]

Sorry for the delay in responding, I kept forgetting to take pictures.

Jay, I'm thinking a 3" thermowell? View attachment 277770
Here it is into the kettle.

View attachment 277772
Here is the thermometer next to the thermowell showing approximately how much longer it is than it needs to be.

I'm assuming it really doesn't need to stick that far into the kettle correct?

Thanks for you time as always! Cheers-Kevin

I think our 4" thermowell on a 1.5" Tri clover to NPT Female would probably get you right there.

Cheers
Jay

 

[sandyeggoxj]

HEy Jay,

I got all three of the dip tubes yesterday. They look great. I test fit a dip tube and the modified whirlpool arm on the BK and they look perfect. The system won't be operational for a while but in the mean time they look good. And that is what REALLY counts.

That being said I will be trying the stogie toy out much sooner. I'll report back to you on that as well.

Thanks for what you do for this community!

 

[Jaybird]

HEy Jay,

I got all three of the dip tubes yesterday. They look great. I test fit a dip tube and the modified whirlpool arm on the BK and they look perfect. The system won't be operational for a while but in the mean time they look good. And that is what REALLY counts.

That being said I will be trying the stogie toy out much sooner. I'll report back to you on that as well.

Thanks for what you do for this community!

OUTSTANDING!!!!


Man do I like seeing a plan come together...

Thanks for the feedback!

Cheers
Jay

 

[AF1HomeBrew]

Gladly..
I worked with Phil to design a False Bottom system that will work for all their kettles. I have also been working with many of Phils customers to design and build dip tube systems AND false bottom systems that will also work with the Tri Clover ports Phil has welded on his kettles.

Can you post a side view photo of what your BruGear false bottom looks like? I went to your website, but the BruGear page has a video of you showing off the SS Brewtech false bottom.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

OUTSTANDING!!!!


Man do I like seeing a plan come together...

Thanks for the feedback!

Cheers
Jay

As promised... Taking a break from tiggin'. The 1964's aren't the greatest smoke I've had, I'm really diggin' stuff from drew and herrera these days, but it was a suitable test stick. I can officially say, based on personal experience, that the stogie toy works great for holding a cigar AND opening a Sierra Nevada Hop Hunter. I'll have to pick up golf again so I can try out all of the features. :rockin:

 

[Jaybird]

As promised... Taking a break from tiggin'. The 1964's aren't the greatest smoke I've had, I'm really diggin' stuff from drew and herrera these days, but it was a suitable test stick. I can officially say, based on personal experience, that the stogie toy works great for holding a cigar AND opening a Sierra Nevada Hop Hunter. I'll have to pick up golf again so I can try out all of the features. :rockin:

Cant wait to see that stand all done. I like the looks so far! Great shot of the Stogie Toy and cigar and torch and the stand and the square in the back ground..Ha ha ha ha I love it!

Cheers
Jay

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Cant wait to see that stand all done. I like the looks so far! Great shot of the Stogie Toy and cigar and torch and the stand and the square in the back ground..Ha ha ha ha I love it!

Cheers
Jay

Too bad I didn't have a good weld to put it all next to. That one is so-so. The stand was clamped down to keep it square while it cooled. SS is a pain with heat distortion.

I'm still waiting the the f#$%ing laser place to finish my parts. Cutting the panel face and some other odds and ends. They are taking forever. Sucks to to be the little guy...

 

[Jaybird]

Too bad I didn't have a good weld to put it all next to. That one is so-so. The stand was clamped down to keep it square while it cooled. SS is a pain with heat distortion.

I'm still waiting the the f#$%ing laser place to finish my parts. Cutting the panel face and some other odds and ends. They are taking forever. Sucks to to be the little guy...

Well the Stogie Toy looks FANTASTIC! LOL

Keep the picts coming man! I want to see the progress of this build!

Cheers
Jay

 

[user 160740]

Has anyone attempted a 5-gal batch using these 20gal kettles? It looks like it won't work too well given the TC openings are above 5-gal mark for the thermometer etc.