Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What mill and gap are you using? I'm using the 2 roller Hullwrecker from Northern Brewer
I'll reiterate - Don't worry about the measurements. Look at the grain. Are the hulls cracked? Are the grains partially broken? That is way more effective than some arbitrary number for the gap. Only you know your system and your process.
 
I'll reiterate - Don't worry about the measurements. Look at the grain. Are the hulls cracked? Are the grains partially broken? That is way more effective than some arbitrary number for the gap. Only you know your system and your process.
Welp in that case the crush looks perfect!
 
What mill and gap are you using? I'm using the 2 roller Hullwrecker from Northern Brewer

When I am at home I use the maltzilla:
https://www.kegland.com.au/products...he-diamond-grain-mill-premium-diamond-rollersThe maltzilla tends to leave the entire husk intact. The diamond coated rollers work by grabbing the surface of the grains and the sheering action cracks them open but the grains are not chopped in half like many other mills. The only downside for the maltzilla is that you need to use an air duster to clean it out from time to time so the diamonds are exposed. If the diamonds get bogged up it can stop drawing grain. Cleaning is quite easy though.

When I am at work I use this wolf mill as this is what we use for customer orders as it's quite fast:
http://wolfengineering.com.au/wolf_cub.htmlThis is an Australian made model.

To be honest I am not sure what the gap is set to but I just reduce the cap incrementally until I get the desired results.
 
Just placed the order for the Rapt Bluetooth Thermometer! Going to test it with a few single infusion mash batches before trying a step mash. Brewing a west coast IPA this evening with the new crush and HED. If the crush is correct are rice hulls really a necessity IF there are not any adjuncts in the recipe?
 
Just placed the order for the Rapt Bluetooth Thermometer! Going to test it with a few single infusion mash batches before trying a step mash. Brewing a west coast IPA this evening with the new crush and HED. If the crush is correct are rice hulls really a necessity IF there are not any adjuncts in the recipe?
Better save than sorry!
 
Just placed the order for the Rapt Bluetooth Thermometer! Going to test it with a few single infusion mash batches before trying a step mash. Brewing a west coast IPA this evening with the new crush and HED. If the crush is correct are rice hulls really a necessity IF there are not any adjuncts in the recipe?
where did you pick up the thermometer from. MB is still showing out of stock
 
where did you pick up the thermometer from. MB is still showing out of stock
I placed the order at Morebeer. It showed in stock for an hour or so this morning. It showed out of stock, and then it showed in stock so I bit :) Now it's out of stock again
 
I placed the order at Morebeer. It showed in stock for an hour or so this morning. It showed out of stock, and then it showed in stock so I bit :) Now it's out of stock again
I guess I don't have my browser refresh timing down. Been showing out of stock all day for me.:confused:
 
Ran through a batch using the .054 inch gap with 5% rice hulls and didn't have stuck recirculation. However the efficiency was crazy low! I got 55% efficiency. Tightened down to .039 inches and will be trying that the next couple of batches to see how that works out
 
Ran through a batch using the .054 inch gap with 5% rice hulls and didn't have stuck recirculation. However the efficiency was crazy low! I got 55% efficiency. Tightened down to .039 inches and will be trying that the next couple of batches to see how that works out
Did you extend your mash time to allow for the extra time required to fully gelatinize the larger grits?

Brew on :mug:
 
Did you extend your mash time to allow for the extra time required to fully gelatinize the larger grits?

Brew on :mug:
I let the grains sit for 10 minutes, started circulation for a 60 min mash, stirred the top 2/3rds at 40 and 20 minutes, mashed out for 10 minutes, then fly sparged. Honestly the crush looked like a Northern Brewer crush. Can say I had poor efficiency on my old system with that same crush so not sweating it lol
 
Not a complaint, just a warning:

I sliced off a bit of finger tip (10mm x 5mm x 1.5mm) on the gen4 vent fins the other day. I was trying to get the neoprene jacket on right and I guess I put my hand in a bad spot.

That stamped sheet metal is sharp!
 
Not a complaint, just a warning:

I sliced off a bit of finger tip (10mm x 5mm x 1.5mm) on the gen4 vent fins the other day. I was trying to get the neoprene jacket on right and I guess I put my hand in a bad spot.

That stamped sheet metal is sharp!

Thanks for the heads up on this one. We will have a look at the tooling and make sure the punch die is working correctly.
 
Ran through a batch using the .054 inch gap with 5% rice hulls and didn't have stuck recirculation. However the efficiency was crazy low! I got 55% efficiency. Tightened down to .039 inches and will be trying that the next couple of batches to see how that works out

If you are getting low efficiency I would recommend doing a proper mash out and not sparge too fast. I would check the core malt pipe temperature either using the Bluetooth probe or an alternative probe in the malt pipe to make sure you have got to mash out temp. Doing a proper mash out does increase efficiency quite a bit.
 
Thanks for the heads up on this one. We will have a look at the tooling and make sure the punch die is working correctly.
Thanks, although TBH the way I was handling it was the main cause. I basically put my finger on a sheet metal edge for leverage, lol.

I just meant for others to be mindful : )
 
If you are getting low efficiency I would recommend doing a proper mash out and not sparge too fast. I would check the core malt pipe temperature either using the Bluetooth probe or an alternative probe in the malt pipe to make sure you have got to mash out temp. Doing a proper mash out does increase efficiency quite a bit.
I do mash out...Or at least I think I do lol The bluetooth thermometer should be here today so it'll be used in this mash schedule on Friday

1682946517323.png
 
I just bonded the thermometer with the unit. What would the allowed temp differential need to be set to between the sensors? It's set to 4F currently
 
Gen4 Iteration Update: took out the HED after two brews of low efficiency (~70% mash eff) and added in a NorCal Mash Paddle powered by a cordless drill. Same malt, same crush on my 3-roller mill. Result was an all-time high 87% mash efficiency--got to 1.059 OG with 10lb malt and 1lb Candi Sugar.

While I am betting the mash paddle made some positive difference, I may not use the HED in the future. Ironically, by reading up on PID settings at Kegland's urging, my mash temp stability was the best ever, even without the HED. I am finding David Heath's PID settings (available on YouTube) to be a better starting point for my 65L, and about 65% heating element power with a 5.5 gallon batch/10lb grain. I am also maintaining a boil with 65% power, but use the full 100% moving up to a boil.
 
Gen4 Iteration Update: took out the HED after two brews of low efficiency (~70% mash eff) and added in a NorCal Mash Paddle powered by a cordless drill. Same malt, same crush on my 3-roller mill. Result was an all-time high 87% mash efficiency--got to 1.059 OG with 10lb malt and 1lb Candi Sugar.

While I am betting the mash paddle made some positive difference, I may not use the HED in the future. Ironically, by reading up on PID settings at Kegland's urging, my mash temp stability was the best ever, even without the HED. I am finding David Heath's PID settings (available on YouTube) to be a better starting point for my 65L, and about 65% heating element power with a 5.5 gallon batch/10lb grain. I am also maintaining a boil with 65% power, but use the full 100% moving up to a boil.
Are you using the bluetooth thermometer also?
 
Gen4 Iteration Update: took out the HED after two brews of low efficiency (~70% mash eff) and added in a NorCal Mash Paddle powered by a cordless drill. Same malt, same crush on my 3-roller mill. Result was an all-time high 87% mash efficiency--got to 1.059 OG with 10lb malt and 1lb Candi Sugar.

While I am betting the mash paddle made some positive difference, I may not use the HED in the future. Ironically, by reading up on PID settings at Kegland's urging, my mash temp stability was the best ever, even without the HED. I am finding David Heath's PID settings (available on YouTube) to be a better starting point for my 65L, and about 65% heating element power with a 5.5 gallon batch/10lb grain. I am also maintaining a boil with 65% power, but use the full 100% moving up to a boil.
Interested in hearing more on how you are utilizing this mash paddle in lieu of the HED. Having a hard time picture how one replaces the other.
 
Interested in hearing more on how you are utilizing this mash paddle in lieu of the HED. Having a hard time picture how one replaces the other.
No relation between the two at all, except for the impacts they may or may not have on mash efficiency. Time will tell, but hitting 87% happened to have been timed with only one other process change that might have impacted efficiency--the motorized mash paddle. If for nothing else, sure makes dough-in a lot easier.
 
Are you using the bluetooth thermometer also?
Tried it last batch, and the upper temp never caught up with the bottom, which had the effect of making the mash sooooo long. I didn't try more than a 5F temp differential--just not comfortable with more. This last batch was a NHC round 2 re-brew, so I was trying to keep things mostly same-same. So, on a non-competition batch down the road, I am sure I will try it again and try a higher temp differential. Then again, my process is working without it, so also unsure what I gain by using it (other than finding another variable to fuss with that may or may not help the end result be better).

Speaking of, doubt I am the first, but I recently won two gold medals with my Gen4 so far, one at the ASH Cactus Classic in Saison, and the second at NHC round 1 in San Diego also in Saison. The machine works if I do my part!
 
Tried it last batch, and the upper temp never caught up with the bottom, which had the effect of making the mash sooooo long. I didn't try more than a 5F temp differential--just not comfortable with more. This last batch was a NHC round 2 re-brew, so I was trying to keep things mostly same-same. So, on a non-competition batch down the road, I am sure I will try it again and try a higher temp differential. Then again, my process is working without it, so also unsure what I gain by using it (other than finding another variable to fuss with that may or may not help the end result be better).

Speaking of, doubt I am the first, but I recently won two gold medals with my Gen4 so far, one at the ASH Cactus Classic in Saison, and the second at NHC round 1 in San Diego also in Saison. The machine works if I do my part!
Congrats! I saw on the Kegland video it looks like they use a 10C differential. That's 50F I believe. I'll be doing a step mash on Friday so really curious to see what @KegLand recommends there? What is a good starting point for the temperature differential with the bluetooth thermometer? Should I really shoot for 50F, aka 10C, as mentioned in the youtube videos?

Edit: The video I am referencing is this at around 25:30 ish

 
Last edited:
Yes, 10C diff is oké. Only watch the bluetooth temp of the mashpipe. The bottom temp is less important that way.
Converting to F that would be a 50F Fahrenheit differential correct? I'm horrible with math and conversions so just triple checking lol
 
10 degrees Celsius is 50 degrees Fahrenheit but that's not the same as a 10 degree Celsius differential.

To convert from C to F you would multiply the value by 9/5 and add 32. If you ignore the +32, 9/5 is 1.8, meaning for every 1 degC change, you change 1.8 degF. So a 10 degC differential would be 18 degrees F. Whether or not you want an 18 degree difference between the top and bottom of your mash is up to you ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Welp I'm still new to all of this. What's a good rule of thumb on the differential or is there one?
 
I just bonded the thermometer with the unit. What would the allowed temp differential need to be set to between the sensors? It's set to 4F currently

4F is pretty low. I mean this will work but you will be able to step up mash temp faster if you raise this to 18F. Some people might say "what 18F that is too high and you will denature the enzymes" but this has not been the case in our experience. A differential of 18F means the wort at the base can momentarily get hotter but it greatly increases the speed of which you can get hit the target temp in the malt pipe. The bluetooth probe in the malt pipe will prevent overshoot in the malt pipe which is where the temperature really matters.
 
4F is pretty low. I mean this will work but you will be able to step up mash temp faster if you raise this to 18F. Some people might say "what 18F that is too high and you will denature the enzymes" but this has not been the case in our experience. A differential of 18F means the wort at the base can momentarily get hotter but it greatly increases the speed of which you can get hit the target temp in the malt pipe. The bluetooth probe in the malt pipe will prevent overshoot in the malt pipe which is where the temperature really matters.
18F it is! I'll give that a shot this weekend with a step mash. Also tightening up the crush a bit this go around to .040 inches for efficiency sake. Do you recommend stirring during the mash or should I just recirculate only? What are your experiences there?
 
I stir a couple of times during single and step mashes.
Forgot to do it last brew on a rye altbier and lost several points. I recirculate throughout the whole mash whether I stir or forget to stir!
 
Just pre-ordered a Gen4 65L from my LBS and excited to upgrade from my 3.1.1 65L Brewzilla. Many of the tips and tricks from (what I will call) the Gen3 HBT discussion thread were very helpful when I had just transitioned to the Brewzilla process. So, I thought a dedicated Gen4 thread for those new 35L & 65L owners should help shorten the learning curve for all of us, and not dilute the Gen3 thread.

Who of us will get their Gen4 first? Please post your experiences and "wish I had known that sooner" learning points here.

My Gen 4 65L finally arrived after being backordered through Morebeer for almost three months. Everything was great until I plugged it in. As others have reported, it immediately turned the elements on as I was trying to get it registered.



The temp was set to 0°C, then 32°F when I changed the display units. The fire icon was not displayed on the screen indicating that the elements were on. When I finally noticed that the temp was rising, I put a couple of gallons of cold water in and continued fumbling through the damn rapt portal set up hoping it would pick up an update and fix the temperature rising problem. No firmware update, even though the version I was running was 20220721_153849_1478787.

I started the "Dry Beer Temperature Profile" from the portal. The portal made it seem like the mash profile was running, but the fire icon was not displayed. Given the complete absence of instructions, I did what seemed like the logical thing and pressed the play button on the controller. The fire icon showed up, but after about five seconds I heard a relay like sound and the controller died.

I unplugged and replugged all the connections, but the display was still dead. The one thing that kept working though is the heating element. I left it plugged in while I dug out my trusty Gen 3 35L for it's 102nd batch. Two house later the water temp in the Gen 4 with the dead controller rose to and held a consistent 138°F. It is obviously pretty concerning that this things still makes heat.

Spoke with Morebeer yesterday and they are trying to figure out whether to send a new controller or a whole new unit. In the meantime I wanted to share as a cautionary tale and hopefully prompt an explanation from Kegland.
I'm looking for somebody with a 65L Gen 4 to show me where the wires that feed the unit are hooked to which terminals on the main circuit board. Is there anybody that can help me?

Thanks,,
A close up picture might work....Need to know L1, L2, and ground. Where they are connected.
 
I'm looking for somebody with a 65L Gen 4 to show me where the wires that feed the unit are hooked to which terminals on the main circuit board. Is there anybody that can help me?

Thanks,,
A close up picture might work....Need to know L1, L2, and ground. Where they are connected.
When I hook by gen 4 board up I will be bench testing it without any elements hooked up. After I get power to the board successfully I will get the controller hooked up. After the controller is hooked up I can get it connected to internet and configure and then I'll start hooking up the elements and the other stuff.
I found a YouTube video that kind of show's what terminals the feed wires are connected to. I'd feel more comfortable if someone could verify for me. I'd hate to fry the board on trial and error.
 
If you just put some water in the brewzilla before you turn it on you won't fry anything.
Might make a bit of steam.
A lot easier and safer than disconnecting elements.
 
I'm looking for somebody with a 65L Gen 4 to show me where the wires that feed the unit are hooked to which terminals on the main circuit board. Is there anybody that can help me?

Thanks,,
A close up picture might work....Need to know L1, L2, and ground. Where they are connected.
On youtube is a post from homework brewer about upgrade to a 25 Watt pump. L1,L2 and ground are mentioned.
 
Just sparged. Will have 78% brewhouse efficiency when it's all said and done. The sweet spot for the hullwrecker is .040 inches it seems like with 5% rice hulls added to the grain bill. Now I did not stir during the mash either. I left the grains to sit for 10 minutes then started recirculation and began the automated step mash with the Bluetooth thermometer. The Bluetooth thermometer is a must! The mash temps were actually stabilized and this felt like the best brew day yet! The wort is also crazy clear! This is the first time the system has worked as advertised.

To sum up the Bluetooth thermometer and hed is a must with these units. So much so they should be included by default. Glad to finally have the unit I originally expected back in August lol Thanks for the continued support on the forums @KegLand
 
Just sparged. Will have 78% brewhouse efficiency when it's all said and done. The sweet spot for the hullwrecker is .040 inches it seems like with 5% rice hulls added to the grain bill. Now I did not stir during the mash either. I left the grains to sit for 10 minutes then started recirculation and began the automated step mash with the Bluetooth thermometer. The Bluetooth thermometer is a must! The mash temps were actually stabilized and this felt like the best brew day yet! The wort is also crazy clear! This is the first time the system has worked as advertised.

To sum up the Bluetooth thermometer and hed is a must with these units. So much so they should be included by default. Glad to finally have the unit I originally expected back in August lol Thanks for the continued support on the forums @KegLand
The 35L or the 65L?
Batchsize?
PID settings?
I’v got the 65L
 

Latest posts

Back
Top