Brewing my first hefeweizen

[RyPA]

I wanted to try something different so I decided to go with a hefeweizen. I found a recipe on morebeer and decided to go with that. I did some quick searching and saw some conversation that doing a decoction mash significantly improves the beer.

Can anyone with experience weigh in? I was planning to brew this using the same process as any other beer, just a normal mash for 60 minutes. I've never done a docoction mash, and will be brewing in an Anvil Foundry in my garage, so I may not have all of the equipment to do so, but if I do, then maybe I will try

Thanks!

 

[lumpher]

Don't go to all the stress and extra work. I do plenty of Hefes, and decoction. Does very little if anything now.

 

[RyPA]

Don't go to all the stress and extra work. I do plenty of Hefes, and decoction. Does very little if anything now.

Thank you!

Since you're a hefe expert, any suggestions in brewing this recipe? I ordered northern brewer hops so I cant change that, and I bought Lallemand Munich Classic yeast, as I've read it's better than Safbrew WB-06 which Morebeer suggests. Any water profile or mash suggestions?

https://www.morebeer.com/products/german-hefeweizen-grain-beer-brewing-kit-5-gallons.html

 

[lumpher]

I definitely would not call myself an expert at hefes. Im just an ogre who settles. You did good getting Munich yeast. It's much closer to Hefe yeast. 3068 is the best liquid, as far as I'm concerned. Munich is the best dry.

 

[RyPA]

at your ogre comment. ok, so Ill just brew this as the recipe sheet says and see what happens.

 

[crazyjake19]

For your first Hefeweizen, I would keep it simple. Single infusion, no decoction or step mash. Lallemand Munich Classic is possibly the best dry yeast you can get for a Hefe. I've only brewed a few but it's the only dry yeast I've used so far.

Brewing one this weekend with my dad. Just a single infusion mash but I plan to add a few ounces of dextrose to drive ester development, and open fermenting for the first couple days.

Even with a straightforward approach and no open ferment, our last hefe had plenty of banana, but low amount of perceptible 4VG/clove. I tend to ferment them around 67F and pitch a regular amount of yeast. Personally, I don't feel underpitching them is ideal on the homebrew level. There's a lot of other levers you can pull to tweak your beer while still pitching a healthy amount of yeast.

 

[RyPA]

For your first Hefeweizen, I would keep it simple. Single infusion, no decoction or step mash. Lallemand Munich Classic is possibly the best dry yeast you can get for a Hefe. I've only brewed a few but it's the only dry yeast I've used so far.

Brewing one this weekend with my dad. Just a single infusion mash but I plan to add a few ounces of dextrose to drive ester development, and open fermenting for the first couple days.

Even with a straightforward approach and no open ferment, our last hefe had plenty of banana, but low amount of perceptible 4VG/clove. I tend to ferment them around 67F and pitch a regular amount of yeast. Personally, I don't feel underpitching them is ideal on the homebrew level. There's a lot of other levers you can pull to tweak your beer while still pitching a healthy amount of yeast.

thanks..do you open ferment for flavor or due to the aggressiveness of the yeast?

Water profile?

 

[RyPA]

Has anyone tried open fermentation in an all rounder? I am thinking of putting the lid on that comes with the pressure kit, to allow use of my thermowell, but leaving the top without an attachment, only covered by a piece of sanitized foil.

 

[HM-2]

Has anyone tried open fermentation in an all rounder? I am thinking of putting the lid on that comes with the pressure kit, to allow use of my thermowell, but leaving the top without an attachment, only covered by a piece of sanitized foil.

I've done similar with the hop bong lid, loosely cover the opening in foil to closer-to-open-ferment a hefe. It worked well, one of the few times I actually got 1st gen WHC Banana Split to throw any esters.

Personally I would be inclined towards step mashing rather than single infusion. Keep the grist super simple, I usually do 50% wheat, 40% pilsner and 10% Barke Munich.

 

[RyPA]

I am around 40 hours into fermentation and the krausen is not nearly as big as I was expecting. When I opened my fermentation chamber I got hit with some sulfer. I am open fermenting at 68F.

Is this normal for munich classic?
Should I keep the fermentation chamber open when open fermenting? If yes, I will not be able keep temps low.

 

[hungupdown]

I definitely would not call myself an expert at hefes. Im just an ogre who settles. You did good getting Munich yeast. It's much closer to Hefe yeast. 3068 is the best liquid, as far as I'm concerned. Munich is the best dry.

Hefe's are my regular/goto beer, accounting for maybe ⅓rd of batches.
Usually slight variations on Graham Wheelers, Schneider Weiss recipe. 56% wheat malt; 20% Vienna; 18% Pils; 6% Caramunich

I've only used dried yeasts: Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat M20, and WHC Banana Split. Would be interested to know if you've compared the Munich wheat beer yeast to either of those?

I always ferment on the cool side, for the first two or three days. To get more banana flavour.

Banana Split yeast gives more banana flavour. But tastes too sweet, even though FG comes in slightly lower than MJ M20.
Not sure why that is.

 

[RyPA]

Hefe's are my regular/goto beer, accounting for maybe ⅓rd of batches.
Usually slight variations on Graham Wheelers, Schneider Weiss recipe. 56% wheat malt; 20% Vienna; 18% Pils; 6% Caramunich

I've only used dried yeasts: Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat M20, and WHC Banana Split. Would be interested to know if you've compared the Munich wheat beer yeast to either of those?

I always ferment on the cool side, for the first two or three days. To get more banana flavour.

Banana Split yeast gives more banana flavour. But tastes too sweet, even though FG comes in slightly lower than MJ M20.
Not sure why that is.

I thought fermenting warmer gave banana, and lower was clove. This my first hefe, so no comparisons on yeast yet

 

[SFC Rudy]

Has anyone tried open fermentation in an all rounder? I am thinking of putting the lid on that comes with the pressure kit, to allow use of my thermowell, but leaving the top without an attachment, only covered by a piece of sanitized foil.

I open ferment my Hefeweizen with Munich Classic in a 15 gallon sterilite container from Walmart. With open fermentation you want it shallow and wider.

This is how I finally got my Hefeweizen to rival most of those I drank while stationed in Germany.

 

[RyPA]

I open ferment my Hefeweizen with Munich Classic in a 15 gallon sterilite container from Walmart. With open fermentation you want it shallow and wider.

This is how I finally got my Hefeweizen to rival most of those I drank while stationed in Germany.

Thanks, Ill need to pick up one of them. I unscrewed the lid to my all rounder and opened the fridge door to allow some of the sulfer out and oxygen in. The krausen is still really thin, I was expecting it to blow the lid off.

 

[RyPA]

Is oxidation not a risk for the entire life of fermentation? Trying to determine if I need to bother purging a sanitizer filled keg like i do with my neipas.

 

[rmr9]

Is oxidation not a risk for the entire life of fermentation? Trying to determine if I need to bother purging a sanitizer filled keg like i do with my neipas.

Oxidation isn’t a concern with open fermentation since active yeast will consume oxygen and also form a protective layer on top of the fermenting beer - especially top cropping yeast like weizen yeasts. Once fermentation slows then you want to cap the fermenter to protect from oxygen. I would still keg it like you would a NEIPA though

 

[rmr9]

I open ferment my Hefeweizen with Munich Classic in a 15 gallon sterilite container from Walmart. With open fermentation you want it shallow and wider.

This is how I finally got my Hefeweizen to rival most of those I drank while stationed in Germany.

I must’ve asked before but did you just drill a hole for a spigot on the bottom for beer transfers? Also do you just toss the lid onto the container when fermentation slows? I’m very intrigued

 

[lumpher]

I've only used dried yeasts: Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat M20, and WHC Banana Split. Would be interested to know if you've compared the Munich wheat beer yeast to either of those?

I always ferment on the cool side, for the first two or three days. To get more banana flavour.

Banana Split yeast gives more banana flavour. But tastes too sweet, even though FG comes in slightly lower than MJ M20.
Not sure

I've use M20. It's good, but not as true to style as Munich. Colder ferment does bring out clove, not banana, and I've never tried Banana Split yeast. I don't like beers that taste like candy or dessert.

 

[Witherby]

Thanks, Ill need to pick up one of them. I unscrewed the lid to my all rounder and opened the fridge door to allow some of the sulfer out and oxygen in. The krausen is still really thin, I was expecting it to blow the lid off.

One of the side benefits of open fermentation (the main being flavor benefits and happy yeast) is that you don’t get out of control kräusen or need a blowoff tube.

 

[RyPA]

Ah, so since I am open fermenting, is it normal to have a krausen that is only 1” to 2” thick?

 

[Witherby]

Ah, so since I am open fermenting, is it normal to have a krausen that is only 1” to 2” thick?

Definitely. I open ferment pretty much all my beers. More “loose lid” than completely open, but no top pressure. I’ve never needed a blowoff tube.

 

[RyPA]

Definitely. I open ferment pretty much all my beers. More “loose lid” than completely open, but no top pressure. I’ve never needed a blowoff tube.

I sealed it up today after 3 days open. How long do you let it sit once you reach FG?

 

[Witherby]

I sealed it up today after 3 days open. How long do you let it sit once you reach FG?

If you are bottling definitely several days to make sure it is finished. I usually keg condition with a spunding valve so I’m not worried that everything is completely finished. I should be more consistent and scientific than I am!

 

[RyPA]

If you are bottling definitely several days to make sure it is finished. I usually keg condition with a spunding valve so I’m not worried that everything is completely finished. I should be more consistent and scientific than I am!

I am kegging, and I brew 99% IPA’s so I am used to transferring to a keg shortly after I reach FG. I was not sure if a hefeweizen/munich classic needs more time in the fermenter.

 

[ncbrewer]

How long do you let it sit once you reach FG?

Since hefeweizen loses its distinctive flavor with time, I rush it a little. I used to bottle after two weeks (after confirming stable SG) and let it condition for ten days before drinking. I got a little nervous about the possibility of bottle bombs, so now I wait 17 days before bottling. It still tastes fresh.

 

[RyPA]

Since hefeweizen loses its distinctive flavor with time, I rush it a little. I used to bottle after two weeks (after confirming stable SG) and let it condition for ten days before drinking. I got a little nervous about the possibility of bottle bombs, so now I wait 17 days before bottling. It still tastes fresh.

So you let it sit in the primary fermenter, on the yeast cake, for 17 days?

 

[ncbrewer]

So you let it sit in the primary fermenter, on the yeast cake, for 17 days?

Right. And still confirm stable gravity by checking three days before bottling and again on bottling day. I've had a few slow fermenting batches (not hefeweizen), so I don't assume fermentation is on a schedule.

The two-week minimum that I used previously really should be fine, but I'm pretty much a fanatic about bottle bombs.

 

[hungupdown]

Oxidation isn’t a concern with open fermentation since active yeast will consume oxygen and also form a protective layer on top of the fermenting beer - especially top cropping yeast like weizen yeasts. Once fermentation slows then you want to cap the fermenter to protect from oxygen. I would still keg it like you would a NEIPA though

The suspended yeast, required in proper hefeweizen, will consume any residual oxygen after bottling / kegging. So making it fairly oxidation proof.

 

[rmr9]

The suspended yeast, required in proper hefeweizen, will consume any residual oxygen after bottling / kegging. So making it fairly oxidation proof.

I would still suggest caution, in my experience this wasn’t the case. Last batch I bottle conditioned before switching to cask/keg was a hefeweizen that I didn’t bottle as carefully as I should have and it was an oxidized mess

 

[RyPA]

I sealed it up while fermentation was winding down and it still ahd a thin layer of krausen on top - the blow-off continues to slowly bubble. 3 days later it still looks like OJ so I think I may have avoided oxidation. I plan to keg next saturday... I cant wait to try it.

 

[RyPA]

I took a gravity sample today and gave it a taste and I think it turned out really well. It finished out at 1.010, 4.5% ABV.

Is waiting an extra week to keg worth it?

 

[rmr9]

I’d wait another day or 2, take another gravity reading each day to make sure then keg it up early/mid this upcoming week

 

[Rish]

I took a gravity sample today and gave it a taste and I think it turned out really well. It finished out at 1.010, 4.5% ABV.

Is waiting an extra week to keg worth it?

I always wait at least 2 weeks before packaging just to let the yeast continue to settle and condition. Good luck

 

[RyPA]

I always wait at least 2 weeks before packaging just to let the yeast continue to settle and condition. Good luck

Do you cold crash?

 

[Rish]

Do you cold crash?

Nope, just let gravity do its thing.