30 days from when?? About 14 days fermentation and 21 days bottle conditioning... sounds a bit short to me... Unless kegging then you can take off about a week.
Hey all.
Question/issue here i am having with my B20 (original unit- aka NOT the B+).
Got a reciepie i am running right now that i have used before- no modifications to it. It is stuck on the sparge step.
-I have paused and re-started it several times
-i have killed the power twice now and let it re-boot.
-the sparge just wont get past the "step 1/2" phase.
Anybody got any miricals for me to save this batch?
Well it's been outside on the curb now for like 20 minutes... nothing. Not sure how that is going to help me save the brew?Not really constructive - but what I think of the Brewie - take it out to the curb and get something that really works.....
Well it's been outside on the curb now for like 20 minutes... nothing. Not sure how that is going to help me save the brew?
What is code for manual mode? You posted before:Go manual mode and see if you can just override things?
I cant. The keyboard does not come up on the panel. I tried the app but it wont pull up.Go to the recipe search field and punch in
!#43373#
... and now i just got it!!I cant. The keyboard does not come up on the panel. I tried the app but it wont pull up.
Grr!!
Yeah... this is pretty sweet!!!Congrats. Hopefully you can figure it out to finish the brew!
Only run one heater at a time or it will pop the fuse!
Thanks again!!Good deal. Just transfer to the boil side and run the heater. Hit the hop valves when you hit a boil and recirculate on the boil side. Close the mash tun valves.
Thanks- especialy for the tip about getting cut!!You will need to open it up and check the wires. My eBay B20 had pristine connections and then only after a few trials and one brew the connectors were becoming discolored. The one connection to the thermal switch wasn’t even on properly, so that could be a problem, it may have come off. Then the circuit isn’t completed and you would have no power. You don’t need to take all of those items apart to get to the heaters but it is a bit more tricky on the B20 vs the B+. Go slow and be careful not to cut yourself on any of the sharp objects in there, especially the heat exchanger edges. Take some pics and report back. My suspicion is the wires.
Well that means i need to tear this baby open tommorrow!!I doubt it is the heaters. They are just ceramic heaters. My bet is on the wires and spade connectors.
Well that means i need to tear this baby open tommorrow!!
Thankfully there is there step by step guide above.
Ok, so have been able to slowly pull this thing apart. Taking pictures as I go to help the put back together.
See the attached pictures- what do you all think? @HarkinBanks ? @sniperd ? Any one else?
I see some scorching, but the wires (thick black) look different than the instructions I have (loose white covers). Is this an issue?
Any input is much appreciated! Thanks all!!
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Would that just turn the boil heater off completely? I get no heating from this.Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.
the Digiki links are for orders of 1,000 or more... I cannot locate on Amazon- any other suggestions?Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.
Typically, a cheap multimeter will show 0.5-2 ohms with the leads shorted (poor calibration/crappy leads). A good thermostat would be right around there when below its cutoff temp. I would expect the heater to show probably in the neighborhood of around 10 ohms if its in good shape. If its bad, it will probably show a short circuit (the 0.5-2.0 reading) or open circuit (a lot of meters show '0L' or a really high number).
On digikey, copy the manufacturer's part number into the search bar. They typically sell the same part in a few different item numbers (bulk [>1000] and usually different types of packaging [tape and reel, individually bagged, lead free]). Look at the minimum qty number on the search results and choose one that isn't 1,000.
I ordered these (all part numbers are digikey):
thermostat (130*C cutoff [some people have used up to 150*C as they really only save a dry burn - steel tank bottom won't be much worse at 150 than 130C): 317-1550-ND
10-12AWG terminals (uninsulated, most insulated terminals are barely rated to 100*C): WM17811CT-ND
^those have pin crimp terminals which need a more expensive crimper - i had a tool to do that. you may be better with these: WM6913CT-ND, which only require a standard terminal crimper (much cheaper:CT-4071-1R-ND)
SSR side terminals (not mounted directly in the heated area so insulated is fine): 277-11138-ND
i used some self fusing tape rated to 180*C to insulate the terminals at the thermostat and burner, but that's quite expensive (i had a roll laying around) - this stuff is rated to temp and would do the job of providing basic insulation: 3M10822-ND
For wire, i would go with 10AWG if possible (thats what the terminals will handle and bigger is always better when passing that much current). i like the ETFE/PTFE insulated - but thats also expensive at the large gauges.
Instead of the fabric sheathing the whole cable, i like this stuff to line the sheet metal edges instead: RP814-ND
i hope this helps.
Well... for the amount of time i spent taking this apart... i would prefer to just replace it all at once, seal it up, and be done with it.Based on the pics I would say it is safe to assume the wires and thermal cutoff switch are dead. I still think the heater is fine but this will be a trial and error process. I would replace the wires only and bypass the cutoff switch and test the heater with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a new thermal switch and test again with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a muffin fan to keep that area cooler. Otherwise this will keep happening.
Here is the silicone tape I used. It is self fusing and you can use it to wrap the ends of the spade connectors. I found it at my local hardware store. It’s not expensive and works well.
View attachment 650392
Do you have a part number for the fan?The muffin fan was a digi key order for me. I couldn’t find one with a low enough draw at any computer store. The temp switch is also a special order item. The wires, connectors and silicone tape can all be sourced at Home Depot. Pull the existing wires and head there and replicate.
Hello all! So I am working through these possible burnt ends (Mmmmm... brisket! Sorry I digress... lol).
Here is a picture of just the heater- this seems ok, correct?
Also, here is a picture of the themro-switch thingy- I will be ordering a replacement today.
Also- a few questions (appreciate the help- I know I can read past threads but I would prefer latest up to date)
-What model fan should I order?
-What direction does the air-flow go (INTO the brewie, or OUT of the brewie?)
-Can I just wire it in parallel with the existing fans?
-Has anyone found a replacement insulation blanket? (Mine is torn/ burnt)
-When changing the wires, I assume you run them all the way back to the Brewie Control Board, correct?
Thanks all!
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Do you have a part number for the fan?
Also- these modifications only need to happen to the boil side, correct- as that is where the current gets up to higher temps due to the boil, and the mash tun tends to stay cooler?
Again, thanks all!
Here is a link to the fan:
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...rporation/1606KL-04W-B50-L00/P12817-ND/740174
If the link doesn't work, search for 1606KL-04W-B50-L00
I only do the muffin fan on the boil side, but I do replace the spade connections on the mash tun side. I cut off the existing plastic covers and spade connections until I get clean wire and then put on new spade connectors insulated with the silicone tape all the way up to the end of the spade connector. The mash side does not get as hot as the boil side but it is a good preventative measure.
Place the fan so the "NMB-MAT" logo is facing the element.
You cannot wire it in parallel with the existing fans. I ran it back to the power supply like Ironcyberia did here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-32#post-8465938
Yes. Pull off the plastic that comes on the spade connectors and then wrap with silicone tape.
You need to drill a hole in the plate and I secured with a screw and locknut.
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