Brewie

[Nate R]

Ok, so have been able to slowly pull this thing apart. Taking pictures as I go to help the put back together.

See the attached pictures- what do you all think? @HarkinBanks ? @sniperd ? Any one else?

I see some scorching, but the wires (thick black) look different than the instructions I have (loose white covers). Is this an issue?

Any input is much appreciated! Thanks all!!

 

[Gardiner4]

Ok, so have been able to slowly pull this thing apart. Taking pictures as I go to help the put back together.

See the attached pictures- what do you all think? @HarkinBanks ? @sniperd ? Any one else?

I see some scorching, but the wires (thick black) look different than the instructions I have (loose white covers). Is this an issue?

Any input is much appreciated! Thanks all!!

View attachment 650346 View attachment 650347 View attachment 650348

Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.

 

[Nate R]

Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.

Would that just turn the boil heater off completely? I get no heating from this.

 

[Gardiner4]

You should be able to check for continuity with a multi-meter. If the thermostat failed open you would get no continuity. Check all the wires and the thermostat. My wires were already in pieces when I opened it up.

 

[kh54s10]

I'm certainly no expert when it comes to electricity, but it looks like serious problems to me. Not just a thermostat. ALL the wires shown look burnt to me, at least to some degree.

 

[Hamboner]

Definitely replace all those wires, terminals, and thermostat for good measure. Clean the heating element terminals very well before putting the new ones on. The insulating pad looks quite dark as well. Wondering if there wasn't a run away heating type event.

If you can get your hands on a multimeter you should check the heating element (just in case) and the thermostat (for Shi*s and giggles). You definitely want a slightly higher rated thermostat than what brewie initially used.

Check you tube for a quick tutorial on how to use a multimeter to check for continuity.

 

[Nate R]

Well I never got the Fluke i've wanted since high school, but I do think I have a placewhereshipsdock-freight model I can use... I am simply looking to check for an open or closed circuit, correct? Or do I need to measure resistance as well?

Also- based on this, is it safe to assume the issue is NOT the heater itself? So I can keep the existing heater and focus on the wires, terminal, and thermostat, correct?

 

[Nate R]

Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.

the Digiki links are for orders of 1,000 or more... I cannot locate on Amazon- any other suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[Hamboner]

Typically, a cheap multimeter will show 0.5-2 ohms with the leads shorted (poor calibration/crappy leads). A good thermostat would be right around there when below its cutoff temp. I would expect the heater to show probably in the neighborhood of around 10 ohms if its in good shape. If its bad, it will probably show a short circuit (the 0.5-2.0 reading) or open circuit (a lot of meters show '0L' or a really high number).

On digikey, copy the manufacturer's part number into the search bar. They typically sell the same part in a few different item numbers (bulk [>1000] and usually different types of packaging [tape and reel, individually bagged, lead free]). Look at the minimum qty number on the search results and choose one that isn't 1,000.

I ordered these (all part numbers are digikey):

thermostat (130*C cutoff [some people have used up to 150*C as they really only save a dry burn - steel tank bottom won't be much worse at 150 than 130C): 317-1550-ND

10-12AWG terminals (uninsulated, most insulated terminals are barely rated to 100*C): WM17811CT-ND
^those have pin crimp terminals which need a more expensive crimper - i had a tool to do that. you may be better with these: WM6913CT-ND, which only require a standard terminal crimper (much cheaper:CT-4071-1R-ND)

SSR side terminals (not mounted directly in the heated area so insulated is fine): 277-11138-ND

i used some self fusing tape rated to 180*C to insulate the terminals at the thermostat and burner, but that's quite expensive (i had a roll laying around) - this stuff is rated to temp and would do the job of providing basic insulation: 3M10822-ND

For wire, i would go with 10AWG if possible (thats what the terminals will handle and bigger is always better when passing that much current). i like the ETFE/PTFE insulated - but thats also expensive at the large gauges.

Instead of the fabric sheathing the whole cable, i like this stuff to line the sheet metal edges instead: RP814-ND

i hope this helps.

 

[Nate R]

Typically, a cheap multimeter will show 0.5-2 ohms with the leads shorted (poor calibration/crappy leads). A good thermostat would be right around there when below its cutoff temp. I would expect the heater to show probably in the neighborhood of around 10 ohms if its in good shape. If its bad, it will probably show a short circuit (the 0.5-2.0 reading) or open circuit (a lot of meters show '0L' or a really high number).

On digikey, copy the manufacturer's part number into the search bar. They typically sell the same part in a few different item numbers (bulk [>1000] and usually different types of packaging [tape and reel, individually bagged, lead free]). Look at the minimum qty number on the search results and choose one that isn't 1,000.

I ordered these (all part numbers are digikey):

thermostat (130*C cutoff [some people have used up to 150*C as they really only save a dry burn - steel tank bottom won't be much worse at 150 than 130C): 317-1550-ND

10-12AWG terminals (uninsulated, most insulated terminals are barely rated to 100*C): WM17811CT-ND
^those have pin crimp terminals which need a more expensive crimper - i had a tool to do that. you may be better with these: WM6913CT-ND, which only require a standard terminal crimper (much cheaper:CT-4071-1R-ND)

SSR side terminals (not mounted directly in the heated area so insulated is fine): 277-11138-ND

i used some self fusing tape rated to 180*C to insulate the terminals at the thermostat and burner, but that's quite expensive (i had a roll laying around) - this stuff is rated to temp and would do the job of providing basic insulation: 3M10822-ND

For wire, i would go with 10AWG if possible (thats what the terminals will handle and bigger is always better when passing that much current). i like the ETFE/PTFE insulated - but thats also expensive at the large gauges.

Instead of the fabric sheathing the whole cable, i like this stuff to line the sheet metal edges instead: RP814-ND

i hope this helps.

Um... "eff yeah!" this helps!! Thank you!!!

Any suggestions for the insulation padding? Mine was so brittle it easily shredded/tore.

Thanks again!!

 

[HarkinBanks]

Based on the pics I would say it is safe to assume the wires and thermal cutoff switch are dead. I still think the heater is fine but this will be a trial and error process. I would replace the wires only and bypass the cutoff switch and test the heater with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a new thermal switch and test again with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a muffin fan to keep that area cooler. Otherwise this will keep happening.

Here is the silicone tape I used. It is self fusing and you can use it to wrap the ends of the spade connectors. I found it at my local hardware store. It’s not expensive and works well.

 

[Nate R]

Based on the pics I would say it is safe to assume the wires and thermal cutoff switch are dead. I still think the heater is fine but this will be a trial and error process. I would replace the wires only and bypass the cutoff switch and test the heater with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a new thermal switch and test again with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a muffin fan to keep that area cooler. Otherwise this will keep happening.

Here is the silicone tape I used. It is self fusing and you can use it to wrap the ends of the spade connectors. I found it at my local hardware store. It’s not expensive and works well.

View attachment 650392

Well... for the amount of time i spent taking this apart... i would prefer to just replace it all at once, seal it up, and be done with it.

Can a guy get these parts at a home depot? Web order?
Just trying to get this repaired and put back together... and off of the kitchen counter. Swmbo's counter... lol.

 

[HarkinBanks]

The muffin fan was a digi key order for me. I couldn’t find one with a low enough draw at any computer store. The temp switch is also a special order item. The wires, connectors and silicone tape can all be sourced at Home Depot. Pull the existing wires and head there and replicate.

 

[Nate R]

The muffin fan was a digi key order for me. I couldn’t find one with a low enough draw at any computer store. The temp switch is also a special order item. The wires, connectors and silicone tape can all be sourced at Home Depot. Pull the existing wires and head there and replicate.

Do you have a part number for the fan?
Also- these modifications only need to happen to the boil side, correct- as that is where the current gets up to higher temps due to the boil, and the mash tun tends to stay cooler?

Again, thanks all!

 

[Nate R]

Hello all! So I am working through these possible burnt ends (Mmmmm... brisket! Sorry I digress... lol).
Here is a picture of just the heater- this seems ok, correct?
Also, here is a picture of the themro-switch thingy- I will be ordering a replacement today.
Also- a few questions (appreciate the help- I know I can read past threads but I would prefer latest up to date)

-What model fan should I order?
-What direction does the air-flow go (INTO the brewie, or OUT of the brewie?)
-Can I just wire it in parallel with the existing fans?
-Has anyone found a replacement insulation blanket? (Mine is torn/ burnt)
-When changing the wires, I assume you run them all the way back to the Brewie Control Board, correct?

Thanks all!

 

[sniperd]

Hello all! So I am working through these possible burnt ends (Mmmmm... brisket! Sorry I digress... lol).
Here is a picture of just the heater- this seems ok, correct?
Also, here is a picture of the themro-switch thingy- I will be ordering a replacement today.
Also- a few questions (appreciate the help- I know I can read past threads but I would prefer latest up to date)

-What model fan should I order?
-What direction does the air-flow go (INTO the brewie, or OUT of the brewie?)
-Can I just wire it in parallel with the existing fans?
-Has anyone found a replacement insulation blanket? (Mine is torn/ burnt)
-When changing the wires, I assume you run them all the way back to the Brewie Control Board, correct?

Thanks all!

View attachment 650593 View attachment 650594 View attachment 650595 View attachment 650596 View attachment 650597 View attachment 650598 View attachment 650599

I'm glad you are changing out the wires, they look unhappy. I would guess the heater is fine and the problem is really just the wires (and maybe that thermostat which you should switch) and just fully replace them (run them all the way back). I didn't get a fan, didn't think of it at the time. I just reused my insulated blanket, even though I torn it a bit.

 

[HarkinBanks]

Do you have a part number for the fan?
Also- these modifications only need to happen to the boil side, correct- as that is where the current gets up to higher temps due to the boil, and the mash tun tends to stay cooler?

Again, thanks all!

Here is a link to the fan:

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...rporation/1606KL-04W-B50-L00/P12817-ND/740174


If the link doesn't work, search for 1606KL-04W-B50-L00

I only do the muffin fan on the boil side, but I do replace the spade connections on the mash tun side. I cut off the existing plastic covers and spade connections until I get clean wire and then put on new spade connectors insulated with the silicone tape all the way up to the end of the spade connector. The mash side does not get as hot as the boil side but it is a good preventative measure.

Place the fan so the "NMB-MAT" logo is facing the element.

You cannot wire it in parallel with the existing fans. I ran it back to the power supply like Ironcyberia did here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-32#post-8465938

 

[Nate R]

Here is a link to the fan:

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...rporation/1606KL-04W-B50-L00/P12817-ND/740174


If the link doesn't work, search for 1606KL-04W-B50-L00

I only do the muffin fan on the boil side, but I do replace the spade connections on the mash tun side. I cut off the existing plastic covers and spade connections until I get clean wire and then put on new spade connectors insulated with the silicone tape all the way up to the end of the spade connector. The mash side does not get as hot as the boil side but it is a good preventative measure.

Place the fan so the "NMB-MAT" logo is facing the element.

You cannot wire it in parallel with the existing fans. I ran it back to the power supply like Ironcyberia did here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-32#post-8465938

Thank goodness for this community!!!
Thanks for the links and all the advice!

A few more questions...
-Does the insulating tape replace the silicon yellow plastic pieces?
-How does the fan get secured inside the unit?

Thnaks!

 

[HarkinBanks]

Yes. Pull off the plastic that comes on the spade connectors and then wrap with silicone tape.

You need to drill a hole in the plate and I secured with a screw and locknut.

 

[Nate R]

Yes. Pull off the plastic that comes on the spade connectors and then wrap with silicone tape.

You need to drill a hole in the plate and I secured with a screw and locknut.

Again... thank you for all the help. I just want to get this right the forst time.

When you say "plate"... you mean the metal that is between the boil tank and the bottom of the unit where all the pumps etc are attached?

 

[HarkinBanks]

Yes. It is quite thick and you need a good drill bit. There is a ventilation opening where it is designed to line up with the wires of the heater. I drilled mine into that spot like Ironcyberia did.

Also need some small gauge wire to extend the fan wires to the power supply because the lead that comes off the fan isn’t long enough. Cut off the small plug that comes with the fan and splice together. Another Home Depot item.

 

[CircleGetSquare]

Thanks to @Nate R for sharing what he's working through and to @HarkinBanks, @Hamboner, and @sniperd for sharing their expertise and experience now and throughout the thread. I'm also planning to swap out the wiring and connections as a preventative measure on my original B20 machine and my ebay unit. Plus I'm having some issues getting to a strong boil on my original unit, even in developer mode.

Question - do you all think the muffin fan is hack useful/necessary for the B20 machine? I'm pretty sure that's what Nate is using, but I believe that hack was introduced for the B20+.

Also, while I'm asking questions - about how much wire per machine would be necessary to buy?

Thanks so much in advance. Really appreciate all the information.

 

[Nate R]

Thanks to @Nate R for sharing what he's working through and to @HarkinBanks, @Hamboner, and @sniperd for sharing their expertise and experience now and throughout the thread. I'm also planning to swap out the wiring and connections as a preventative measure on my original B20 machine and my ebay unit. Plus I'm having some issues getting to a strong boil on my original unit, even in developer mode.

Question - do you all think the muffin fan is hack useful/necessary for the B20 machine? I'm pretty sure that's what Nate is using, but I believe that hack was introduced for the B20+.

Also, while I'm asking questions - about how much wire per machine would be necessary to buy?

Thanks so much in advance. Really appreciate all the information.

Well... for the amount of time, effort, etc. That i have spent just to get to the boil tank, i am going to do it all at once and be done with it!!
Also, in my last few batches i also did not get to a full boil as well... probably a good bet it is the wires degrading.

As far as wire length, i just ordered the 10' length from ebay (from the reccomended link on the forum) for $16. I think that will be plenty. I could not find the wire at home depot.

 

[Still Brewn]

You should be able to check for continuity with a multi-meter. If the thermostat failed open you would get no continuity. Check all the wires and the thermostat. My wires were already in pieces when I opened it up.

Not a thermostat..... it is a thermal cut off switch set to a specific temperature.

I recommend installing new wiring and the auxiliary fans on both sides. I replaced the existing fans and added 2 new fans. I would do this Especially if you use a step mash in your brews. The more you have to heat with the mash side the more likely you will have the same problem on the mash tun some time down the road. Be sure your fans add up to but not over the same amperage used by the originally installed fans if you are going to splice them into the existing wiring. You will also want to make sure that they move close to the same CFM (cubic feet per minute). You can find my mod thanks to harken and iron that started their mods before I dared open mine. here. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-37#post-8506655
The connectors used for the fans are Micro JST on the B+ I ordered the wrong ones the first time and it is listed wrong in those posts. You can see a couple of additional pictures here.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-40#post-8540416

On the B+ locktight was used on the bolts holding the fans to the base. I had several of them break while removing. My replacement fans came with new bolts so not a big deal. If your fans do not come with new be sure to have some on hand to speed thing up and not have to make a store run in the middle of you repair.

 

[Still Brewn]

If anyone needs the Micro jst plugs I have a number of sets left just send me a SASE and a buck per 2 pair and I will drop them in the mail. It was so much cheaper buying them in a pack of 20 than just buying one set. PM me for info. I have about 15 left. Or you can order this...

And the fans I replaced the existing fans with are

Those fans came with the wrong plugs but I bought enough that it didn't matter to me. They also came with grills and bolts. Used less power and move really close the the same amount of air. The other 2 fans I installed were from scrap computers..... smaller and originally used to cool CPU's. If I remember correctly.

 

[Nate R]

Good morning all!
I wanted to again thank you all for the help, advice, and posts to links that I could (should?) have found on my own with a little bit of work.
I decided to create a spend tracker for my records, but figured it might help others to have a list of what is needed.
Some of these items you may not need, or already have, etc.
Also, I may have ordered too many crimp ends- but since I am doing the mash side as well, I wanted to make sure I have plenty of parts.

 

[Ajes]

Hey guys - I have a couple of questions.
I've brewed a couple of times now on my brewie, and I think I might need some advice on how to get a better effeciency.
(yesterday I brewed the jingle ale - beersmith calculated an effeciency of 67%, but the real numbers turned up an effeciency of 61%).

I've looked over the brewie video giving hints on better effeciency:
1) My water is quite hard and mineral rich, so I don't add any salts, but do add some 80% lactic acid, using the brunwater excel file for calculations.
2) I'm looking to buy a mattmill, but am a bit in doubt about which model to buy. There seems to be one aimed at circulation systems like braumeister etc (mattmill brewmaster), but if I read the specs right, that one doesn't go down below 1mm...?
Anyone here have recommendations? Also, what mill gap do you guys use? I believe someone mentioned 1mm, although the video suggests 0,7-0,8mm.
3) I do add quite a bit of rice hulls.
4) I stir periodically. I bought the basket from arborfab, and this is the first brew I used it for.
5) The video seems to suggest a ph of 6,4 for the sparging water - this seems higher than what I typically see as the recommendation..??
6) I just generally drain everything into my fermenter. Any reason not to?

 

[Still Brewn]

6) I just generally drain everything into my fermenter. Any reason not to?

No reason not to, I do every time and it has not hurt my beer at all.
A couple of hints though.... 1. Be sure not to stir your grain bed during the last 5 minutes or so of your sparge it is acting like a filter and does a very good job at getting the loose particles out of your wort.
2. When you are draining into your fermenter run the wort coming out of the hose through a sanitized, fine mesh colander to get any stray hop particles. Doing this also helps aerate you finished wort. If you are using a fermenter with a small opening you will be unable to do the second step. I posted pictures of the colander my wife got me from Bed Bath and Beyond a while back on this thread, but picture is not on my tablet anymore.

 

[Still Brewn]

Pictures of fan installed

 

[Still Brewn]

The second fan has part of the plate it is mounted to cut away so it does not block the flow of air as much

After I took that picture I cut a little more away but forgot to take a picture