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I guess I just don’t get the motivation to troll. Absolutely zero post value.

This is a awesome valuable thread, let’s keep it going.

I think it’s safe to say at this point the thread is for people that have already bought units not those looking to research before buying.

+1
However, i would add that at these prices ($600-$1,000) new buyers will be researching too!
 
And they should. Its not a mchine for everyone.
I for one got a lot of info out of this thread, before buying -particularly since I bought after the company went silent.
However, if youre willing to mess around with it, and can get it on a good deal, theres nothing quite like out there.
Ive been very happy with my purchase.
 
Hey.
I brewed a rusty rex some time ago (sourced ingredients myself) and the brew went fine. I think I had an OG of 1.048.
I think I set the fermentation chamber around 20 degrees celcius. Around 10 days it was at 1,015, and stayed there for the next few days, so I presumed it was done. It's somewhat higher than what beersmith suggests for FG, though.
I've coldcrashed it, and forcecarbonated.
However, I don't think it tastes very nice - I'm not sure it's diacetyl I'm tasting ('cause I've only read that it's supposed to have a buttery taste), but I wonder if this beer is on the right track, or somethings off??
 
Hey.
I brewed a rusty rex some time ago (sourced ingredients myself) and the brew went fine. I think I had an OG of 1.048.
I think I set the fermentation chamber around 20 degrees celcius. Around 10 days it was at 1,015, and stayed there for the next few days, so I presumed it was done. It's somewhat higher than what beersmith suggests for FG, though.
I've coldcrashed it, and forcecarbonated.
However, I don't think it tastes very nice - I'm not sure it's diacetyl I'm tasting ('cause I've only read that it's supposed to have a buttery taste), but I wonder if this beer is on the right track, or somethings off??

I brewed that recipe a while back and mine definitely finished drier than 1.015. What yeast did you use? I used US-05 and it finished around 1.010. The beer was decent, with a mild amber sweetness but not buttery at all. Also, how long has it been? The recommended wait is about 30 days for this beer.
 
Same yeast for me. It fermented for about 10 days, then I tried quick carbonating it. Guess maybe I have to (sigh) wait. ;-)
 
A few thoughts on sanitizing:
I know there's a sanitizing clean program on the machine. I'm cautious about using it, 'cause I got VERY hard water, and it will leave limescale around. I can use a bit of coffee-machine descaler to balance it out, but I am a bit worried about running acidic water through the plate chiller.
I don't think this in itself is a problem though - it sounds like the machine is pumping the wort through the hoses during the boil.
But, at the end of the brewing, after cooling, the wort is pumped out through the outlet hose. I can sanitize the hose outside the machine in starsan, but what about the hose inside? I know the machine first empties the hop compartments, but I wonder whether this is hot enough at this point(The cooling also cools down the machine) to effectively sanitize the internal hoses.
What are you guys' thoughts?
 
I know the machine first empties the hop compartments, but I wonder whether this is hot enough at this point(The cooling also cools down the machine) to effectively sanitize the internal hoses.
What are you guys' thoughts?

Although I have never taken the temperature of the wort coming out of the hop cages after a brew I know it is still quite hot an is enough to raise the temperature of 5 gallons of cooled wort by a few degrees. I usually pause the draining after the first few seconds of wort draining just to make sure that the line is sanitized by the hot wort coming from the cages.
 
You have to remember that defeats the only reasons to have a brewie. It's only advantage over all the other methods to brew is that its supposed to be able to brew thousands of batches hands off without fiddling with equipment. If it cant do that it's pointless. Cheers

Exactly, spot on. I we babysitting it, we can use any regular equipment.

Today I brewed another stout. Now boilover. Third time using my stainelss wireloops. Still to early to tell if it does the trick.
Wasn't around until 20 min before finish (exept for water inlet issue in the begining.

Still want something like the sentinell.
And "brewie.org" to run and comapny too. Seems like it¨s all down right now.
 
I usuallypause the draining after the first few seconds of wort draining just to make sure that the line is sanitized by the hot wort coming from the cages.

I use StarSan on the hose. Just do full drain and use a "fruit filter cage with filter" to handle the remaining trub . directly into the bucket.

When I brew, I brew. When Brewie brew, Brewie brews by himself.
We share each others brews and ocasionally drinks together too, but he let´s me have it almost all.
Nice friend, my brewie.
 
30 days from when?? About 14 days fermentation and 21 days bottle conditioning... sounds a bit short to me... Unless kegging then you can take off about a week.
 
Hey all.
Question/issue here i am having with my B20 (original unit- aka NOT the B+).

Got a reciepie i am running right now that i have used before- no modifications to it. It is stuck on the sparge step.
-I have paused and re-started it several times
-i have killed the power twice now and let it re-boot.
-the sparge just wont get past the "step 1/2" phase.

Anybody got any miricals for me to save this batch?
 
Hey all.
Question/issue here i am having with my B20 (original unit- aka NOT the B+).

Got a reciepie i am running right now that i have used before- no modifications to it. It is stuck on the sparge step.
-I have paused and re-started it several times
-i have killed the power twice now and let it re-boot.
-the sparge just wont get past the "step 1/2" phase.

Anybody got any miricals for me to save this batch?

Not really constructive - but what I think of the Brewie - take it out to the curb and get something that really works.....
 
Congrats. Hopefully you can figure it out to finish the brew!

Only run one heater at a time or it will pop the fuse!
 
Congrats. Hopefully you can figure it out to finish the brew!

Only run one heater at a time or it will pop the fuse!
Yeah... this is pretty sweet!!!
I just need to boil & hop. I do not have a big enough pot so this may save me!! Lol.

Thanks again!
 
Good deal. Just transfer to the boil side and run the heater. Hit the hop valves when you hit a boil and recirculate on the boil side. Close the mash tun valves.
 
Good deal. Just transfer to the boil side and run the heater. Hit the hop valves when you hit a boil and recirculate on the boil side. Close the mash tun valves.
Thanks again!!
So cool!!

Side note- is the temp listed at the bottom a live reading? Worried now maybe my boil heater is not kicking on- maybe that was my sparge issue. Uggh.
 
If I remember correctly the reading is a live reading for 3.0.

In 3.1.2 developer mode you can set a target temp.
 
Hello fellow Brewie Users.
I have the Original Brewie (B20). NOT the B+

It appears that my Boil Tank is not heating- like not at all. (This explains the Sparge issue I had above).
Everything else appears to be working.

Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? I know the B+ units had some over-heating wires/ melting issues, but I cannot recall any issues with the B20 heating issues.

I am going to scour the files/ info we have all compiled here, but if anyone has an idea please share!

Thanks all!

EDIT- see attached file for repair. This seem correct to you all? Also- anyone have a source for the part? Thanks all!
 

Attachments

  • [E122] Boil heater element_.pdf
    3.4 MB
Last edited:
You will need to open it up and check the wires. My eBay B20 had pristine connections and then only after a few trials and one brew the connectors were becoming discolored. The one connection to the thermal switch wasn’t even on properly, so that could be a problem, it may have come off. Then the circuit isn’t completed and you would have no power. You don’t need to take all of those items apart to get to the heaters but it is a bit more tricky on the B20 vs the B+. Go slow and be careful not to cut yourself on any of the sharp objects in there, especially the heat exchanger edges. Take some pics and report back. My suspicion is the wires.
 
You will need to open it up and check the wires. My eBay B20 had pristine connections and then only after a few trials and one brew the connectors were becoming discolored. The one connection to the thermal switch wasn’t even on properly, so that could be a problem, it may have come off. Then the circuit isn’t completed and you would have no power. You don’t need to take all of those items apart to get to the heaters but it is a bit more tricky on the B20 vs the B+. Go slow and be careful not to cut yourself on any of the sharp objects in there, especially the heat exchanger edges. Take some pics and report back. My suspicion is the wires.
Thanks- especialy for the tip about getting cut!!

I did put in an order request on the Tawain website for two replacement burners so waiting to see what that cost will be.

I am tempted to just change out all the hoses while i have it open... but maybe one thing at a time.
 
I doubt it is the heaters. They are just ceramic heaters. My bet is on the wires and spade connectors.
 
Well that means i need to tear this baby open tommorrow!!
Thankfully there is there step by step guide above.

It is almost 100% the wires. Once you get to the page with the 'remove insulation' you'll be able to see if they look all burned up. If so, there are some pro tips here on what to buy and how to replace: http://www.brewieforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7
 
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