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Nate R

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Sorry I have not contributed in a while. I was considering a brew this weekend so I thought I would see what is new around here
?????
Where did u find that? Is it a new article? The only date i could see was at the very bottom of the page- 2020.

I still have this theory that Brewie just closed to the US, Canada, etc. But are still operating in Hungary and maybe other European countries.

Welcome back- hope you get to brew!!
 

Still Brewn

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?????
Where did u find that? Is it a new article? The only date i could see was at the very bottom of the page- 2020.

I still have this theory that Brewie just closed to the US, Canada, etc. But are still operating in Hungary and maybe other European countries.

Welcome back- hope you get to brew!!
I don't remember..... I think it was by searching for "Budapest brewie" or something like that or the other search was for the 2020 grant they received from the European union back a few years ago. It is listed on the website at the bottom of the homepage...... and of course it is down right now so I can't look. But I think it was a Horizon 2020 Grant but I can't be sure. I wat to say that the article was from 2015 about the time they got their grant.
 

Nate R

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I don't remember..... I think it was by searching for "Budapest brewie" or something like that or the other search was for the 2020 grant they received from the European union back a few years ago. It is listed on the website at the bottom of the homepage...... and of course it is down right now so I can't look. But I think it was a Horizon 2020 Grant but I can't be sure. I wat to say that the article was from 2015 about the time they got their grant.
Ok, that would make sense. For years their website had at the bottom something along the lines of 'funded by agrant from' some such thing like you stated.
I was wondering if that was a NEW article- sounds like not.

On a slightly related theme... y'all see the troubles Pico us going thru? I had no idea until i got that email from them.

The future of automated machines looks troubled... i guess with the lower cost of Grainfather, robo brew, anvil, etc there is not enough market for brewie, pico.... sigh.
 

flidget

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My first post. I purchased a Brewie+ from The Malt Miller back on 23 Nov 2018, and I've never switched it on. I also have the following unopened Brewie pads 2 x Rusty Rex, 2 x Red Neck Hopster, 2 x Hopus Pocus. I'm thinking all this is unusable now?
 

Ajes

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I can't speak for the pads - maybe they will still taste fine? In any case, I think it would be a waste to just throw them out, instead of trying to brew them.
For the brewie itself, it definately is usable.... with a but:

If you're willing to put up with it's quirks, then there's nothing quite like it!
If you want something that just works without any problems whatsoever - then you might want to sell it.

If you are ok with doing a bit of fiddling with it, there's tons of help to get, both here and on the facebook group.
 

Nate R

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My first post. I purchased a Brewie+ from The Malt Miller back on 23 Nov 2018, and I've never switched it on. I also have the following unopened Brewie pads 2 x Rusty Rex, 2 x Red Neck Hopster, 2 x Hopus Pocus. I'm thinking all this is unusable now?
I just made brew #35 or so on my original Brewie B20 yesterday
A few of thoose 35 batches failed due to Brewie issues. A few more failed because of me (more by my fault than Brewie).
But i would say it is 90% plus i can rely on it!!
When it works it is a thing of beauty!!
As Ajes says, ya gott work out the kinks! If you have never used it, then you can easily repaie the wires and add the fans.
Note- only need to do wire mod if its 110V.

Brewieforum.net is your best resource

As for your brewie pads- use them! They can be your test kits. If the wort comes out, then maybe fresh yeast?
 

Ajes

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Does anyone know if it's possible to update the firmware?
yes, that's entirely possible.
Mind you - there's both "software" and "firmware".
The software is on a small sd card, in a slot on the "arm board" (this is a bit like a raspberry pi mini computer). This board is located inside the same white panel that the display is on.
This is a simple update - you can find the image for version 3.1.1 and 3.1.2 on brewieforum.net. Just write that image on the sd card and put it back - then you've upgraded.
Then there's the "firmware" - this is what is running on the "mcu" board, which essentially is an arduino mega. This might not be necessary to update - and also takes a bit more of work to do.
 

c06u

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30 plus brews on my B20, no problems, increased cooling by adding thicker spacers on the fixed feet then level with the adjustable ones, this prevents the Fan Cavitation being too close to a surface, and of course replaced the fuse with a microwave duty one, waiting for a wire failure then UNSHIELDED WIRE MIL-W-22759/16 | Aircraft Spruce with silver solder connector ends
 

Nate R

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30 plus brews on my B20, no problems, increased cooling by adding thicker spacers on the fixed feet then level with the adjustable ones, this prevents the Fan Cavitation being too close to a surface, and of course replaced the fuse with a microwave duty one, waiting for a wire failure then UNSHIELDED WIRE MIL-W-22759/16 | Aircraft Spruce with silver solder connector ends
Really good call on the higher feet... duh! So simple, yet probably makes a huge difference!
Genius!
 

Nate R

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yes, that's entirely possible.
Mind you - there's both "software" and "firmware".
The software is on a small sd card, in a slot on the "arm board" (this is a bit like a raspberry pi mini computer). This board is located inside the same white panel that the display is on.
This is a simple update - you can find the image for version 3.1.1 and 3.1.2 on brewieforum.net. Just write that image on the sd card and put it back - then you've upgraded.
Then there's the "firmware" - this is what is running on the "mcu" board, which essentially is an arduino mega. This might not be necessary to update - and also takes a bit more of work to do.
I know the software is out there for both B20 and B+. Make sure you get the right one!!
I am fairly sure there was at least discussion on firmware- some of the ebay units came needing it.
That site has all the info from here, google drive files, and everything else i have ever seen on the Brewie.

Coming soon... Picoforum.net! So sad. The days of auto brewing are lessening...
 

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After replacing the wiring on my 2nd ebay b20 (first ebay B20 is doing great) and putting it back together, it turned out that I also had a bad thermostat switch.

I replaced that today and put it back together and now everything on the control board fails to work once the B20 is fully booted up...but when it starts up all of the valves are clicking away just fine.

I've tried dev mode in v3.0 (!#43374#) as well as v3.12 (morecontrol) and it's the same for each...I'm actually seeing what I believe to be more evidence that the control board firmware is shot (the temp and water volumes all show -1).

Everything except the boil side had worked a few weeks ago after the wiring upgrade (except for the boil heater).

I think tomorrow I'll get in vis SSH and try forcing a firmware update to see if that get breath life back into it. Any other ideas or comments would be great since this is pretty much all I can think of right now.

Have you double checked the connections from the sensors back to the I/O boards and the connectors from the main board to the remote boards? (I have a Plus) I was showing a -1 on only the raw water after re-assembling the last time. I found that one of the crimped on pins for the pressure sensor had pulled out of the connector that plugs into the board. Pushed the pin back in and added some hot melt glue to hold it in place and the water volume came back. You are missing all the measurements maybe you have a loose connector. With everything you need to move to get at the boil heater there is a potential for things to come loose.
 

pbrown8175

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I think it's a mix of cutting costs to manufacture and poor engineering/testing that was necessary to make the cost cutting work out...stuff like wires/connectors melting is incredibly poor engineering and what I believe, caused the company to fail.

To their credit, they came up with some really cool engineering to fit so much into the small form factor...I'm still impressed with the idea of using pinch valves and how reliable they've been (for me)...smaller, cheaper and because they never actually contact liquid, should be more reliable (no sticky residue) and require no cleaning inside the valves. I'm sure they have their faults but they seem far superior to expensive ball valves for this application.

Ultimately, I think it's a double edged sword to pack as much as possible into a system which uses heat to provide functionality and not use proper "heat management" (insulation, heat-resistant materials, ventilation, etc) to protect the internals...if you use high quality materials then you have less to worry about but again, that's what I mean when I'm talking about compensating for cut costs with engineering.

I completely agree they focused more on the size and looks of the package and did not pay enough/any attention to heat management. Having been inside multiple times I am of the opinion that a few addition inches of overall height would have allowed a few inches air space under boil and mash kettles. Throw in dedicated fans to get the heat off the heat element terminals. I also question wrapping the heat elements with foil insulation, I am not sure how much it helps with keeping heat in kettle but it is definitely contributing to the overheating of the terminals and thermostat.

I also have a comment on the Fan upgrade documented on this forum. I did install it but I question how effective it is. In my case there is large sheet of silicon that prevents the heat element terminal from shorting out on the foil insulation. The silicon sheet also limits how effective the fan is at taking heat off the terminals. The big plus is using the proper temperature rated components when do the wiring upgrade.

Does any know the serial number or date of Manufacture that Brewie implemented the wiring upgrade into production?
 

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Hello everyone, I have another problem,
after many successful brews, the automatic water intake when cooking according to the recipe stopped working. When flushing, the automatic water intake works. What is the reason I do not understand.
 

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I bought a Brewie B20+ a couple months ago, it's brand new, software version is 3.0.16. Wondering if it's worth the effort to update it?

I'm fairly good at IT, but not a coder. Anyone want to guide me through the firmware and software? I would pay for your time and help... probably over Zoom.

I got it on clearance from BrewMore, they were selling them at massive discount, figured it would be worth the risk...
 

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Hi Guys, I'm new here. First I want to thanks you, reading this thread helped me fixing my brewie. Since your post have been helpfull for me, I want to share my experience with you and probably helping others to fix this issue, that is to me a major design flaw and might occure on every 120V Brewie+. I am an electrionic and electrical designer living in Quebec City, Canada (yep a french Canadian). I use to design and bultd power unit, drives, robotic stuff for industrial, so I know pretty well all those components and I'll be willing to help everyone of you if asked for. here is my story with the Brewie+.

I get my brewie (B+) end of september, brew 5 5gallons batchs, with the impression the boilling was less and less powerfull from batch to batch. Sunday, I setup the machine then start the brewing of a belgina white I already brewed with this machine. the tank fillup then, when the element turn on, POW, the breaker in the electrical pannel not far trip violently... OK, that's not normal, isn't a standard trip of a breaker, something have shorted to the ground badly.

At that point I was wondering if I can or not open the brewie seal at the bottom without voiding the warenty.. it's at this moment that I read your posts and realise that in any case of pump clog we have to open the machine anyway. I fill a ticket on Brewie website but it's been 2 days and no news from them.

here is how it look inside, few of you had and have the same issue but without the BANG. 3 of the 4 therminals are coocked and unlucky as always in my existance, the element tabs was so close to the thermal switch posts that it finaly made direct contact to the ground.

I know exactly what happen and sadly most 120V machine might need an upgrade. the main issue is our 120Vac. the original machine was made in europe, the 220Vac kingdom, so in there roughly half the current pass thru those therminals, genrating less heat by contact resistance. Looking at those therminals, they look not crimped so good (maybe not the right tool used) and they are quite loose on the tabs. Here it's important to understand that every connection offer a tiny resistance, over a certain current limit heat buildup and then problems occur, that's why a contact is rated in his capacity in current (A) pass a certain curent it overheat and is not able to dissipate this energy, and it's a death circle. Also it's not a normal thing to use glue to hold the tabs during shipping, a good match of tabs and terminal should hold without any compond.

So, I cleaned every tabs on the thermal switch and element with a fiberglass contact cleaner. I replaced the 4 terminal with panduit terminals and crimped them with the panduit tool (take care to cut an other 1/4in of the wire to reach the wire unaffected area, it give a better contact. So then I placed a good quality heatshrink over the tabs (will inspect the machine after a brew and see). when pluging back the therminals, it's important to feel a good resistance, cheap tabs are olften too lose and you might need to close them a little with a plyer before connecting em. In my case the SSR burned, the current from the short toast it, luckly I had one in my stuff. i will continue monitor the situation and look regulary at the connection. My point of view on the situation is that Brewie have a major problem in their hands and they know it. Not everybody have time and tools to do this job but sadly, if every 120Vac machine have the same terminals crimped with the same tool... there is a good chance everybody have this issue.

Thanks
Greetings from the Left Coast from a guy with a French name. Your post was fabulous and in conjunction with the repair guides has me happily working on repairing a B+. Plus the Fan upgrade. Thanks.
Any idea where in Canada to get Micro JST connectors?
 

Nate R

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Greetings from the Left Coast from a guy with a French name. Your post was fabulous and in conjunction with the repair guides has me happily working on repairing a B+. Plus the Fan upgrade. Thanks.
Any idea where in Canada to get Micro JST connectors?
Amazon? Is that an option for you? If not, ebay? Finally- just about any on-line or brick and mortar electronics warehouse.[/QUOTE]
 

Ajes

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I bought a Brewie B20+ a couple months ago, it's brand new, software version is 3.0.16. Wondering if it's worth the effort to update it?

I'm fairly good at IT, but not a coder. Anyone want to guide me through the firmware and software? I would pay for your time and help... probably over Zoom.

I got it on clearance from BrewMore, they were selling them at massive discount, figured it would be worth the risk...
Hey.
Better late than never:
You can update it yourself - you need to open the bottom up, and get to an sd card.
If you go to brewieforum.net you can find guides on how to do it, and also the image for the sd card.
 

Still Brewn

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there is large sheet of silicon that prevents the heat element terminal from shorting out on the foil insulation. The silicon sheet also limits how effective the fan is at taking heat off the terminals. The big plus is using the proper temperature rated components when do the wiring upgrade.
Yes.... they all have that sheet of silicone. You need to go back and reread the fan installation instructions. You have to cut holes in the sheet and insulation to move the air over the terminals and remove the heat. Blow the air onto the ceramic blocks and the hot air will exit in the center under the hop tanks if you do everything right.
 

Alfalfabrent

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Just buttoned everything back up after doing the wiring repair/ temp switch replacement and extra fan upgrade. Really appreciate the community support on this project!

I'm running 3.1.1 is it worth it to try and update software. Ran calibration on it and it's pretty much spot on. I've got a B+

Also ran into this article when I was trying to figure out how to use filtered water instead of the gross tap water we have here:

 

Nate R

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Just buttoned everything back up after doing the wiring repair/ temp switch replacement and extra fan upgrade. Really appreciate the community support on this project!

I'm running 3.1.1 is it worth it to try and update software. Ran calibration on it and it's pretty much spot on. I've got a B+

Also ran into this article when I was trying to figure out how to use filtered water instead of the gross tap water we have here:

I kinda do the same thing... I bought an "RV In-Line Water Filter" from the amazon for like $18. It is a basic charcoal filter. My water is not that bad to begin with though. It is easy to remove between cleaning and cooling cycles so I am not wasting "filtered" water (Although I always do a quick clean with it on before I brew to run filtered water through).
Note- to anyone like me using a hose for their water supply... make sure to get a "Drinking Water" hose! Again- the amazon or Walmart is fine. They are common for RV uses. That made a bigger difference in my beer flavor than the filter did. File this under "DUH dummy!" for most of you who already knew this! lol. I did not, until I read it, I think- here on this forum.
 

Still Brewn

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Note- to anyone like me using a hose for their water supply... make sure to get a "Drinking Water" hose! Again- the amazon or Walmart is fine. They are common for RV uses. That made a bigger difference in my beer flavor than the filter did. File this under "DUH dummy!" for most of you who already knew this! lol. I did not, until I read it, I think- here on this forum.
Lol.... how "funny" tasting was the beer that was made with the garden hose? I can't imagine drinking a beer that tastes like the garden hose water i remember from my childhood. And of course today we know that garden hoses leach all kinds of nasties into the water.
 

Still Brewn

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For all of you that thought the Brewie was a little pricey, take a look at this disaster of a thing that says it will have beer ready in 4 days.
 

Nate R

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Lol.... how "funny" tasting was the beer that was made with the garden hose? I can't imagine drinking a beer that tastes like the garden hose water i remember from my childhood. And of course today we know that garden hoses leach all kinds of nasties into the water.
Ha! That brings back good memories to me, really! I think actually I only used the first hose for cleaning and cooling. Once I started using the auto water inlet for brewing, I think I bought a real hose. But still... never should have used that cheap hose!
 

Alfalfabrent

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Is there a way to upload beerxml recipes to the Brewie? I haven't yet brewed a batch but trying to avoid the tedium of using the onscreen keyboard to enter ingredients...
 

Nate R

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Is there a way to upload beerxml recipes to the Brewie? I haven't yet brewed a batch but trying to avoid the tedium of using the onscreen keyboard to enter ingredients...
I do not think so. The app helped (when it worked) but othwerise... no. Best advice- copy and paste recipies. I.e. use the same base for an ipa, pale ale, pilsner, etc. Then just adjust each step. It gets easier.
 

Nate R

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For all of you that thought the Brewie was a little pricey, take a look at this disaster of a thing that says it will have beer ready in 4 days.
Where did you find this?? Boil inside the machine, them remove the bag for an hour??? Use malt extract? Looks like basically a temp controlled 2.5 gallon fermenting amd serving vessell??
Who thinks this will work??

Anyways, i got one on order... i will report back after the first brew!! Lol
 

Didroxus

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Hello everyone!
Is there any way to downgrade the firmware from version 7 to version 6 on the B20?
 

Hamboner

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Hello everyone!
Is there any way to downgrade the firmware from version 7 to version 6 on the B20?
I'm curious what the reason for wanting to downgrade. I think you lose the 'morecontrol' dev mode but should still be able to use the old dev mode (i think somewhere in this thread someone posted the steps to get into dev mode if you aren't upgraded to the newer software).

That said, I would think it's basically the same as upgrading. You'll need to find the corresponding 'old' sd card image and get it on an sd card. Once that is installed in the machine and booted, you should be able to do the steps on an earlier page to 'downgrade' the firmware on the microcontroller (using the files on the sd card) to match the sd card image version. The newer microcontroller firmware may be backwards compatible with the sd card image so the second half may not even be necessary if you can verify everything works a expected. Please report back your experience.

I'm now on brew 25 or 30 on my original b20 and 15ish on the second one that i fixed from eBay. So far so good.

One thing to note (may be related to my configuration) is that my second B20 had an issue where it would boot fine and after about 30 second just hard freeze. I found that the machine generates log files on the sd card. It had been left on for long periods of time during which the logs filled up the sd card which seemed to cause it to lock up shortly after boot. Interestingly enough, while locked up i could still SSH into the machine and was able to see the SD card was maxed out. After deleting several gigs of old log files it was back to new.

A second thing I've noticed only on my ebay machine (that was manually updated) is that during cleaning and occasionally during a brew, it will fill with water as it should, then say it has no water source. After i hit ok it continues like nothing ever happened (didn't continue filling or anything). More of an annoyance than anything else but wondering if anyone else has experienced this or solved this issue.
 

c06u

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HP / Agilent 01743-90905 1743A Oscilloscope Operating + Service Manual

I'm curious what the reason for wanting to downgrade. I think you lose the 'morecontrol' dev mode but should still be able to use the old dev mode (i think somewhere in this thread someone posted the steps to get into dev mode if you aren't upgraded to the newer software).

That said, I would think it's basically the same as upgrading. You'll need to find the corresponding 'old' sd card image and get it on an sd card. Once that is installed in the machine and booted, you should be able to do the steps on an earlier page to 'downgrade' the firmware on the microcontroller (using the files on the sd card) to match the sd card image version. The newer microcontroller firmware may be backwards compatible with the sd card image so the second half may not even be necessary if you can verify everything works a expected. Please report back your experience.

I'm now on brew 25 or 30 on my original b20 and 15ish on the second one that i fixed from eBay. So far so good.

One thing to note (may be related to my configuration) is that my second B20 had an issue where it would boot fine and after about 30 second just hard freeze. I found that the machine generates log files on the sd card. It had been left on for long periods of time during which the logs filled up the sd card which seemed to cause it to lock up shortly after boot. Interestingly enough, while locked up i could still SSH into the machine and was able to see the SD card was maxed out. After deleting several gigs of old log files it was back to new.

A second thing I've noticed only on my ebay machine (that was manually updated) is that during cleaning and occasionally during a brew, it will fill with water as it should, then say it has no water source. After i hit ok it continues like nothing ever happened (didn't continue filling or anything). More of an annoyance than anything else but wondering if anyone else has experienced this or solved this issue.
On the water showing no water source occasionally, I found the screen clogged, it was do to my filter case had debris in it (it was new mfg caused) another caution on water is if you have high pressure, it will cause leaks during filling, I installed an r/v water pressure regulator on my filter...as for software/firmware I don't screw with any of that on any device I own period whaether it be camera/TV/toaster you name it, if it works LEAVE IT ALONE my B20 has about 40 brews on it now with no problems, I have two spare units that were basically new and only had manufacturing metal chips in boil pumps so the original buyer never got past the fill cycle, easy fix
 

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olhaus1

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Here is the heart behind the B20. The system on a chip/board setup that is.

A13-SOM-256

I wonder if you picked up the 512 variant if it would run any better?
I purchased a Brewie+ over a year ago because the ad stated "they had fixed all the issues with the original Brewie ", hooked it up in a small pantry like area that was between my kitchen and living room (yeah, I know) brewed 5-5G batches of my own recipes before packaging it back up for a renovation that included a dedicated brewery off my new laundry room. Today I took it back out of the box again and set it up to get ready to brew this weekend. Much to my dismay the unit would not boot; it stayed on the Brewie screen and stopped. I tried several different times having to unplug it and restart it to no avail so I asked Dr. Google for help. He brought me here. I was disheartened to find that the manufacturer has disappeared and that there were sooooo many issues with something that quite honestly, for the price, should be BULLETPROOF! Anyhow on to the issue of not booting...after reading most of these posts I was convinced I would have to replace the SD card and reload the 3.1 OS however, McGyuver posted the link for the Olimex board so I went t here and found the manual for the board and being a reader of techie $hit I found the board has a default SLEEP MODE! So to make this post short and to the point (whoops, sorry) to get your Brewie B20+ TO COMPLETE THE BOOT CYCLE HOLD THE POWER BUTTON ON UNTIL THE ENTIRE BOOT SEQUENCE IS COMPLETE!, I am now happy to report MY B20+ is operational but, I might be afraid to shut it down HA! Thanx to all who post in this forum for the help. (Especially you McGyuver)
 

Nate R

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I purchased a Brewie+ over a year ago because the ad stated "they had fixed all the issues with the original Brewie ", hooked it up in a small pantry like area that was between my kitchen and living room (yeah, I know) brewed 5-5G batches of my own recipes before packaging it back up for a renovation that included a dedicated brewery off my new laundry room. Today I took it back out of the box again and set it up to get ready to brew this weekend. Much to my dismay the unit would not boot; it stayed on the Brewie screen and stopped. I tried several different times having to unplug it and restart it to no avail so I asked Dr. Google for help. He brought me here. I was disheartened to find that the manufacturer has disappeared and that there were sooooo many issues with something that quite honestly, for the price, should be BULLETPROOF! Anyhow on to the issue of not booting...after reading most of these posts I was convinced I would have to replace the SD card and reload the 3.1 OS however, McGyuver posted the link for the Olimex board so I went t here and found the manual for the board and being a reader of techie $hit I found the board has a default SLEEP MODE! So to make this post short and to the point (whoops, sorry) to get your Brewie B20+ TO COMPLETE THE BOOT CYCLE HOLD THE POWER BUTTON ON UNTIL THE ENTIRE BOOT SEQUENCE IS COMPLETE!, I am now happy to report MY B20+ is operational but, I might be afraid to shut it down HA! Thanx to all who post in this forum for the help. (Especially you McGyuver)
Dude..... great post!! Thanks. I wonder how many times people here have changed boards when this would have solved it??
 

Ajes

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For those who aren't on facebook, someone has made a custom firmware, and are in the process of putting up a server that will handle the update.
Check here:
 

Bryce Brewer

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For those who aren't on facebook, someone has made a custom firmware, and are in the process of putting up a server that will handle the update.
Check here:
That’s awesome, excited to see what it offers! I think this next brew I’m going to do all manual and do a full volume biab with bags split into both tanks to ensure a good conversion and move water between tanks. it would be nice if this new version let me control that more easily and schedule different events without having to babysit. Mainly being able to automatically fire either element if there is water in the tanks in order to maintain a temperature in both tanks. I would love to talk to whoever is working on this to see if this is a possibility.

I have been considering trying to do something like this on my own as I could see being able to do partigyle batches (or two completely different beers) on the Brewie as a pretty simple process after converting to 220V and run both batches simultaneously. Basically doing a full volume biab and then drain “first runnings” to a bucket while adding water for a sparge and quick remash to get the second runnings and increase efficiency. Transfer wort when complete to the boil tank, squeeze the bag, remove the bags, and dump in already collected first runnings into the mash tank.

Then just run two separate boils with the first one having automatic hop additions and the second be manual through a hop spider. I would need to open back up the Brewie again or look at the valve diagram again to know for sure but I’m thinking one or two strategically placed valves would allow me to choose to close the valve(s) and essentially separate the mash and boil tanks to where you could circulate and not have the two worts mix.

I have done all of the wiring mods and added fans to both tanks so I’m not concerned about heat dissipation too much but obviously that will essentially double the heat in the Brewie. I’m not opposed to hacking the back of the Brewie either to allow for heat to come out of the back to help cool.

Sorry about the tangent there, I have just always thought an open source or improved control of pumps and heating elements would go a long way. I have a PLC/HMI and enough knowledge to do something like this if the motherboard or something ever failed but this would be a nice option if it is flexible
 

Bryce Brewer

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Found the Facebook post and I realize now that what I’m describing won’t be possible since they aren’t modifying the OS code. Might eventually think about doing this myself although I won’t be able to overwrite the OS, I would need to use a separate controller since I don’t have a background in that. Would be a fun project but would probably just make more sense to go to a “traditional” system and build a control panel for a 2 vessel BIAB system.
 

Tim H

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I feel like this is a stupid question.....but I am going to ask it anyway.

Is the fan mod as straight forward as
Buy fan (https://www.amazon.com/MakerFocus-Printer-40X40X10mm-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B07CH6YC32/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=makerfocus+4pcs+3d+printer+fan+12v,+40mm&qid=1610567610&sr=8-3)
-Open up bottom
-Disconnect a bunch of stuff
-Position fan so 1/2 of it overlaps the metal cut out from the mounting bracket
-Cut foil so air will flow through said hole
-Run wires to the power supply

I thought it was a little more complicated than that....... What about a fan for the mash side, or are people just doing 1 for boil?


Anything else I should know??
 
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jordo_99

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I've done two fan mods and I think you've covered the majority of it.

I've heard of several people just splicing the fan with one of the existing fans (or directly to the PSU) but I connected mine to the MCU board into a spare JST plug just like all the other components.

I'm almost positive the MCU board has three FAN ports and I connected to the open one:


Other things I did:

I mounted the fan with only one screw, directly under a valve.

The sheet metal that all the pumps and valves are mounted to has the screw mounting brackets punched out and bent up...one of those holes is right over the wiring so I just that hole a little larger.

I used one of the existing threaded holes for a valve screw and drilled out the screw hole larger...then used a regular fan screw to hold a valve from the top and fan from the bottom -- this ended up with the valve, sheetmetal and fan being sandwiched together in that order...not sure if that will make sense; it's hard to describe
 

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