brewed for a while. Now I am starting over from scratch.

[thisisbeer]

How would you start over if you had to? I haven't brewed in about 9 months due to moving for my job. I got rid of everything when I moved. So I am starting completely over. I had a 3 tier all grain set up before . I enjoyed that set up but now I am thinking of doing BIAB. I was looking at the brew boss set ups and they look nice. But for that price I can get a simpler gas fired set up and build another keezer. But brewing indoors is really tempting. I would really like a single tier 3 kettle set up but there all around $2000+ and I don't have time to build my own. I am just not sure if I am sold on BIAB. What would you do if you had to start over. I am also opening this up to other things you would have purchased or done. Things like stir plates, flasks, setting up for 10 gallon batches from the start, or any other home brewing tool or method. Would you go gas or electric? I want to make sure I don't miss anything. Thanks.

 

[Psylocide]

I have an SP-10 Bayou Classic Burner and a 20 gal kettle for BIAB.

BIAB is so stupid simple and cheap to get into... I was doing it in a 5.5 gal kettle with a bunch of workarounds to get 5.5 gal into the fermeter.

I already had a turkey burner and the kettle, so all I had to buy was a pack of paint strainer bags to try it out.

After deciding this was the route I wanted to go, I got myself the 20 gal kettle and scored the burner from a local member of HBT here (which was awesome).

I would say, go for it. If anything, you'll end up with a burner and a 20 gal kettle, which could be used for anything down the road.

 

[Peruvian802]

If you have the inclination, I would recommend eBIAB. Plenty of control, very easy and relatively inexpensive (unless you go crazy with the controller). You can brew indoors or out (assuming you have proper hookups and ventilation), and there is much less 'gear'.

Once I find someone with the knowledge to sit down with me to help me wire my own controller, I'm switching from LP to electric and ditching my MLT.

 

[thisisbeer]

If you have the inclination, I would recommend eBIAB. Plenty of control, very easy and relatively inexpensive (unless you go crazy with the controller). You can brew indoors or out (assuming you have proper hookups and ventilation), and there is much less 'gear'.

Once I find someone with the knowledge to sit down with me to help me wire my own controller, I'm switching from LP to electric and ditching my MLT.

I don't need anything crazy. Do you know of anyone that seeks a controller for a decent price?

 

[Onkel_Udo]

This gets a bit touchy because it really does depend on what you want out of brewing. If you really want to know how I would want it, you kind of need to know what my priorities are.

I like to drink beer and lots of it. I am not fond of getting loaded so I make lots of volume but 95% of it is 4% ABV or lower. I live where it is wicked cold about 250 days a year (or so it would seem) but I have tons of basement space. I also enjoy the actual process of brewing and when it is nice out side use it as an excuse to hang with the dogs or doing light yard work. I also brew exclusively ales because lagering annoys me and there are not enough lagers I want to make that I can overcome my annoyance.

For me, I need the following to meet these needs:

20 gal pot with two 2000W electric elements with seperate controls...one is a 20 amp switch and the other a variable temp controller (rheostat is fine)
Bag and hoist to BIAB
A large enough upright freezer for 5-6 kegs and 4 taps with a temperature controller
A small chest freezer for two 7 gallon buckets with a temperature controller
9 sixtel's and the appropriate keg washer
A better malt mill than I have now that is motorized

What this gives me is a still "manual" brewing process that I can use indoors or out (requires only two 20 amp GFI circuits) that can mash, boil and ferment 10 gallons while serving 4 types of beer and carb'ing at least one more. The sixtels are so nice but I just cannot justify switching right now.

I did not mention ventilation because if it is cold enough I am brewing inside, I need the humidity and would just find a way to distribute it back to the air-handler of my HVAC system. That way my whole house can smell GLORIOUSLY of hops and malt.

 

[Peruvian802]

As onkel says, a controller may not be totally necessary and once you understand how your rheostat operates after a few brews, you can likely control mashing temperature without a digital read out.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

As onkel says, a controller may not be totally necessary and once you understand how your rheostat operates after a few brews, you can likely control mashing temperature without a digital read out.

Yeah, everyone links to the stilldragon controller but I am looking at other alternatives. To be honest, I plan to start with just two switches since I doubt 4000W will be too much for boiling my starting volume of 12 gallons. I still plan to depend on thermal mass and insulation for maintaining my mash temp and since the crush is so fine for BIAB, conversion is often done in under 15 minutes or less.

So the process could not be simpler...heat strike water, add grain and stir like mad, put on the lid for 15 minutes, pull bag and commence boiling.

 

[thisisbeer]

It seems I need to look more heavily into electric brewing.it really does seem to have a lot of things in its favor.

 

[Natdavis777]

Im converting to electric. Mainly bc I am sick of buying propane. Putting a BoilCoil in my keggle in a week or so. If you lived closer, I could hook you up with a single tier for cheap. Got a bunch of 1/8" steel, so I recently fabbed one up and just got my pumps and chiller bolted on. Brewed a quick 100% lacto brevis beer yesterday and Im already in love with the new setup and its not even completed.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

You're gonna wanna take are of that scratch. Gen Pop says you'll get an infection.

 

[Natdavis777]

American Wheat. Alternating between one fermented with 1056 and the other with 1968. Still trying to figure out which I like better... Guess that means more taste testing.

 

[eulipion2]

It seems I need to look more heavily into electric brewing.it really does seem to have a lot of things in its favor.

I started BIAB (and no-chill) in 2009, and just upgraded to electric BIAB (eBIAB). BIAB is easy, cheap, takes up less space, and allows for quicker setup and teardown. It'll take a little cash to upgrade to electric, but being able to brew 5-10 gallon batches indoors in January is totally worth it! Mash temps in 15-20 minutes, boil temps in another 10-15.

This was only my second electrical project, after an STC-1000 temp controller build, and I found it to be pretty easy. If you're unsure of your abilities have someone who knows what they're doing with electricity have a look at it.

My setup:

1 16-gallon stainless kettle with steamer basket (bag reinforcement, and keeps bag off element) and Reflectix wrap for insulation.

1 HotRod Heat Stick with all-stainless 5500w element

1 Chugger pump

1 Control panel similar to THIS ONE, but without the alarm. 240v uses unused dryer outlet. The panel cost me around $300 when all said and done, but could probably be done for cheaper.

1 Temperature probe

1 Spa Panel, wired so that power cords in and out can be removed (portability/storage).

Stainless 50' immersion chiller w/whirlpool arm, thick-walled silicone tubing, and, of course, power cords.