Brewbuilt Pressure Pack floating dip tube issue.

[Mutt98]

Anyone use the pressure pack on the brewbuilt unitank (X3) and have issues with a pressure transfer using the floating dip tube? I have the 14 gallon model and for my last two batches the dip tube gets caught on either the thermowell or the heating element and starts blowing CO2 while there is still a gallon or more beer left in the fermenter. Just curious if someone has had a similar problem and has a fix. I’ve believe I’ve got close to two gallons left in the fermenter right now that I’d love to get out.

 

[Chorgey]

I have the X2 with the ludicrous coil. I have contacted Morebeer on several occasions. The floating dip tube on that coil is at the bottom of the coil and it does not leave much room for the floating dip tube.

Like you, it hangs up on things. My big issue is that it hangs up on the wall of the X2. They suggested that I cut the tubing down so that the floating dip tube just touches the bottom of the conical.

Personally, I feel that it is a bad design. I lose nearly a gallon of beer. They suggest that I continue to pressure transfer and when it stops, to get the rest out through the sampling port.

I have even put a stainless steel nut on the tubing, so that it would weigh it down, but that really doesn’t work.

I will try to cut the tube just a little bit more. If that does not work, I am out of options.

 

[Broken Crow]

I've looked online, but the only Brewbuilt FDT I can find doesn't show the accompanying thermowell...just trying to get a visual on the problem. Is the part that gets stuck the float or the tube?
I only ask because I'm wondering if a more 'low-profile' float would address the issue, such as the UK 'Cask Widge';
https://caskwidge.com/Parts
I can't find a US based supplier of parts, just the whole rig from Micromatic:
https://www.micromatic.com/en-us/cask-widge/p-iJa4udMNMkCpaLHy3GfuUw

 

[Mutt98]

I've looked online, but the only Brewbuilt FDT I can find doesn't show the accompanying thermowell...just trying to get a visual on the problem. Is the part that gets stuck the float or the tube?
I only ask because I'm wondering if a more 'low-profile' float would address the issue, such as the UK 'Cask Widge';
https://caskwidge.com/Parts
I can't find a US based supplier of parts, just the whole rig from Micromatic:
https://www.micromatic.com/en-us/cask-widge/p-iJa4udMNMkCpaLHy3GfuUw

Sorry, I might not have been clear, the thermowells in the X3 come in from a port on the side near the top of the cone. I took my 4” pressure pack lid off after I got hung up this time and the silicone tubing was draped over the heating element/wand, which makes sense considering it extends nearly the entire width of the cone. I doubt I let in much O2 during the quick adjustment, but it’s such a pain.

 

[Skeeter686]

Well, at least I'm not the only one. I love the thing, but the performance of the floating dip tube has been slightly disappointing for me so far.

 

[Mutt98]

Well, at least I'm not the only one. I love the thing, but the performance of the floating dip tube has been slightly disappointing for me so far.

Agreed. I’m deciding if I want to set up to just pull out of the bottom instead. I already have a sight glass and valves I could use.

 

[Skeeter686]

Agreed. I’m deciding if I want to set up to just pull out of the bottom instead. I already have a sight glass and valves I could use.

The bottom works fine, and you can still do a closed transfer that way. I just wanted to try the floating dip tube, because it seemed like it might be a slightly better process for a couple of reasons.

I'd have to check the geometry, but there is a hook up top and I wonder if it's possible to run a stainless cord down from that to something on the bottom and use that as a guide for the float so that the dip tube doesn't catch on something.

 

[Mutt98]

The bottom works fine, and you can still do a closed transfer that way. I just wanted to try the floating dip tube, because it seemed like it might be a slightly better process for a couple of reasons.

I'd have to check the geometry, but there is a hook up top and I wonder if it's possible to run a stainless cord down from that to something on the bottom and use that as a guide for the float so that the dip tube doesn't catch on something.

The floating dip tube does move clear beer and the samples are way better than the sample port. I like the idea of the guide wire. Something that holds the pickup toward the back of the fermenter would be great.

 

[DavidBD]

Anyone use the pressure pack on the brewbuilt unitank (X3) and have issues with a pressure transfer using the floating dip tube? I have the 14 gallon model and for my last two batches the dip tube gets caught on either the thermowell or the heating element and starts blowing CO2 while there is still a gallon or more beer left in the fermenter. Just curious if someone has had a similar problem and has a fix. I’ve believe I’ve got close to two gallons left in the fermenter right now that I’d love to get out.

I just got a 7-gallon X3, with pressure pack and spunding valve. The floating dip tube came with tubing that seemed too long. I shortened the tubing so the intake would hang (when empty) just above the bottom butterfly valve. If it draws in gas I suppose a weight can be attached to the filter screen to keep it submerged. I don't have a heater in there since I live in Texas, and I don't think it will hang up on the thermo well, but I suppose I could adjust "the angle of the dangle."

Do you leave the floating dip tube installed throughout fermentation or add it after fermentation? It seems like it might clog with yeast if installed from the start, but adding it later, once the yeast has dropped, means opening the tank and risking oxygen contamination. Opening it might be the better option as there will be a protective layer of CO2.

I'm also questioning how to dry hop because the Pressure Pack instructions say, and I quote, “Do not place pellet hops, whole hops, oak chips, or other items directly into the fermenter. … use a mesh bag to contain these types of materials.” Sounds like the pressure pack is incompatible with the use of a hop bong or adding pellets through the bottom collection chamber. I suppose I could open the fermenter to toss in a mesh bag of hops or pour in hop tea. It would be really nice to use a hop bong, but I don’t want to clog up the works with loose particulate matter.

 

[Deadalus]

I have two 7 gallon X2s. I use a racking arm in the middle horizontal port, a hop bong, and a cone stick on heater. Thermowell and a gas stone are on the other two horizontal ports. I think the racking arms are SS Brewtech. The three h. ports are tightly spaced on this model and volume but I can work the racking arm decent enough. Takes a little practice, as well as deciding whether to dump and when. Cold crashing to get hops to drop may help too. Also a silicone TC gasket to rotate the arm and a TC screen when conducting the transfer. Not saying this way is better but just presenting an option. When I purchased, there was talk of some difficulties with the floating dip tubes. The more accessories on the inside, the greater the potential difficulties. So I opted for the racking arm.

 

[sibelman]

some difficulties with the floating dip tubes. The more accessories on the inside, the greater the potential difficulties. So I opted for the racking arm.

Even without all the internal parts for the floating dip tube to hang up on, things can go awry. With my Flex+, I've had to fall back to the racking arm when the loading floating dip tube wouldn't do its thing. So I always keep the racking arm installed just in case, even when planning to use the floating dip tube.

risking oxygen contamination. Opening it might be the better option as there will be a protective layer of CO2.

Gasses mix very fast. The myth of the protective layer is mostly just that - a myth. "Risking" isn't the word I'd choose.

 

[stonebrewer]

Anyone have advice on how to properly tighten the TC clamps when pressurizing? I have the 14G uni and a Blickman spunding valve. Buttoned up a lager and I guess it fermented way faster that expected because it was like day 5 at 54F and the gauge on the Blickman never got over 1 PSI. I decided to put 5lbs of pressure on the beer with CO2 today and about 4 PSI the large top lid blew off and destroyed both of the plastic QD's on my chilling loop!! Guess I am lucky it didn't hit me as that lid must weigh close to 10 pounds! Looking closer at the triclamp for that lid, it does not seem to overlap as much as the smaller TC fittings which did not blow. Thank god it wasn't a TC holding one of the lower outlets or I would have beer and glycol all over the floor! Will do more testing when this beer is done with water to see if this thing can truely hold 15PSI as claimed or not, but wondering if anyone has put more than a couple of PSI of pressure on yours?

 

[Skeeter686]

That should not happen! I'm going to have to take a closer look at mine.

Coincidentally, I was just cleaning mine a could days ago and noticed that the fit of the large TC clamp didn't seem ideal, but I didn't even consider that it might explode off of the unit. However, considering the area of an 8-inch cover, that would be 200 pounds at 4 PSI.

 

[sibelman]

that would be 200 pounds at 4 PSI.

200 lbs. sounds like a lot. But, for example, the Spike Flex 4 in. cover, whether metal or plastic, handles almost as much at 15 psi.

This failure should, of course, never happen. If this event was not caused by user error, a design change seems necessary.

 

[stonebrewer]

I emailed Morebeer about it so will post back whatever I hear back from them. I am pretty meticulous about hand tightening all TCs as much as I can. I am 6'3" and 200lbs and have moderately strong hands so I would think that would be enough. I don't like the way that lid seals, the TC clamp seems too thin and doesn't grab enough of the lid in comparison to a 1.5" TC. I am however no expert on TC clamps but this experience has me spooked about using this tank under any pressure. This morning I pulled out my pile of fittings and scraped enough SS QD's together to get the chill loop repaired. I ordered more of the plastic ones but don't know if I am going to go back to plastic as they broke rather easily and they are expensive compared to stainless.

Apologies to OP for stealing this thread. Please go back to discussing the dip tube, which I am going to use for the first time this weekend...will let you know how that goes for me. Only obstruction I have is the thermowell, currently.

 

[Skeeter686]

200 lbs. sounds like a lot. But, for example, the Spike Flex 4 in. cover, whether metal or plastic, handles almost as much at 15 psi.

And this unit is supposed to handle that much, as well (which would be a lot more than 200 pounds). I guess I was just surprised that it failed at only 4 PSI, which sounds like nearly nothing.

 

[stonebrewer]

On the floating dip tube issue, I think the one that comes with this has a design issue. I had a lager that I was kegging today and using the floating dip tube all I got was CO2 out of the unitank. I have a different type of these I use in kegs with a MUCH shorter hose and different design. It worked like a champ to drain the liquid bread into its new home. I noticed the picture in the documentation for how to connect the float ball the the filter is wrong and even asked MoreBeer support about it and they said just remove the piece of stainless steel and clip to any of the plastic rings. Just going to use my keg FDT instead...

 

[DavidBD]

This inexpensive weighted design should stay submerged (link): weighted dip tube screen
It seems like they want you to attach the float bobber at the end closest to the tube connection. If needed, you could make the lead for the bobber a little longer so the pickup rides lower or possibly attach a tungsten fishing weight at the other end to ensure the pickup stays below the surface. [edit: Also, by the way, the hose they shipped with it is much too long and needs to be trimmed to fit.]

 

[String_656]

Today on my Brewbult x3 53L/14gal, my floating dip tube got caught after one keg was filled. It caught on the thermo well from one of the side ports, and then subsequently on the heater element. My solution was to depressurise the fermenter, unscrew the ball lock (beer outlet) and just keep rotating. As the floating dip tube is attached to the post on that ball lock, it eventually caused the hose to tension up and move / spin as i rotated. Minimal to zero oxygen exposure as i never lifted the ball lock post up, just spun it.

 

[bgillan]

I have a brewbuilt X2 and have been using the pressure pack for about 4 brews now. The latest was a heavily dry hopped IPA and I have been using a hop bong to drop hops under pressure, oxygen free. I love the fact that the beer is carbonated when it's done and avoids oxygen (had a nice IPA spoil because of oxygen contamination). The biggest issue I have is transfers. For this heavy dry hopped IPA, I cold crashed down to 40 degrees over two days, but the dip tube kept clogging and turned into a nightmare, so I'm trying to figure out how I will adjust next time. I would have thought cold crashing would have prevented clogging from hop matter. Is 40 degrees not low enough? 2 days for cold crashing not enough? Do others use a mesh bag for dry hoping? This obviously can't be done without depressurizing and opening the fermenter. Last question, when to install the floating dip tube, I have been doing this just before packaging, but I suppose it could be installed earlier, and backflush with a shot of co2 before packaging.

 

[String_656]

I have a brewbuilt X2 and have been using the pressure pack for about 4 brews now. The latest was a heavily dry hopped IPA and I have been using a hop bong to drop hops under pressure, oxygen free. I love the fact that the beer is carbonated when it's done and avoids oxygen (had a nice IPA spoil because of oxygen contamination). The biggest issue I have is transfers. For this heavy dry hopped IPA, I cold crashed down to 40 degrees over two days, but the dip tube kept clogging and turned into a nightmare, so I'm trying to figure out how I will adjust next time. I would have thought cold crashing would have prevented clogging from hop matter. Is 40 degrees not low enough? 2 days for cold crashing not enough? Do others use a mesh bag for dry hoping? This obviously can't be done without depressurizing and opening the fermenter. Last question, when to install the floating dip tube, I have been doing this just before packaging, but I suppose it could be installed earlier, and backflush with a shot of co2 before packaging.

Do you have the little filter at the end of the dip tube? Ive done some NEIPAs with over 500g DH, never had a blockage on the filter at the end of the dip tube. Try connecting your CO2 to the beer line and blow through the dip tube into the fermenter, just release some pressure from the pin before topping back up with your Co2 bottle. I cold cash for 2 days at 1-2 degc.

 

[DavidBD]

when to install the floating dip tube, I have been doing this just before packaging

Last time, I installed it after flocculation began in an attempt to limit clogs, with the idea that the last bit of fermentation would push out oxygen. The filter screen didn't clog, but it was still visibly covered in yeasty matter.

Next time, I plan to affix a small steel washer to the dip tube screen and hold it up and out of the way with an external magnet until the flocculation is complete. Then I can pull the magnet off and the dip tube will drop. People do that with hop bags. A strong neodymium magnet (or a stack of them) will work through the stainless.

I see you use a hop bong. I'm tempted to build one. The components can all be found on Amazon for just over $100 USD total. Some say you're never really done buying equipment...

 

[micraftbeer]

I use a filter on the end of my floating dip tubes (either Flotit 2.0 with the offset float, or Kegland little "shark tank" cage). I also cool crash to like 50 degrees for 24-48 hours before transfer. Early on I assumed if I was getting hops clogging the ball lock poppet without a filter, surely the filter would clog up and stop flowing beer during the transfer, but it never has.

 

[micraftbeer]

Also, I add heat via an external belt heater. It sounds like a heating element inside is a PITA with a floating dip tube. Not to mention an extra thing to clean after...