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Brew Hut Raising Weekend - 4/25

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nathan said:
I gotta second this. My dad and brother came to help me run water and wiring to my new detached garage. My dad insisted we through in extra cat5 and we ended up using it to run low-voltage switches so we can turn on and off the garage lights from the house. Also, there's strands left for phone if we need it. The tubing for the water was easy and we installed a yard hydrant, which was simple as well, so I now have water just outside the building. We're actually now working on a plan to bring in a line through the wall that I can hook to the yard hydrant when I need it that will feed a utility sink just on the other side of the wall.

Running extra stuff is cheap and worth it in the long run.

All right. I'll run an extra pipe with RG59 coax and 2 Cat6 lines out there. I'm sure I'll find some use for them. Thanks for the nudge.
 
EdWort said:
All right. I'll run an extra pipe with RG59 coax and 2 Cat6 lines out there. I'm sure I'll find some use for them. Thanks for the nudge.

I would go with RG6 instead of RG59 if you plan on ever running digital through there.
 
mmb said:
You can rent a texture sprayer and then use a drywall blade to "knock down" the texture.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60312

Something like that is how we did our garage. Mostly you see it on ceilings, but it makes a good work area wall as well.
Or you could go with an orangepeel finish. Opted to do that on my recently done celing. It was down to knockdown or orangepeel, SWMBO and I liked them both equaly. Instead of flipping a coin I just decided to do orangepeel because it's easier. :D BOTH look awesome!
 
Grimsawyer said:
Or you could go with an orangepeel finish. Opted to do that on my recently done celing. It was down to knockdown or orangepeel, SWMBO and I liked them both equaly. Instead of flipping a coin I just decided to do orangepeel because it's easier. :D BOTH look awesome!

But on walls I'd go with knockdown for just the brush by factor. If you bush up against orange peel, it may chip off. Knockdown is fairly flat as is and won't be affected.
 
Looks great man. :mug:

I vote orangepeel. If you suck with a trowel you'll see lines on knockdown.
 
man, this is why I joined this forum. so many like minded souls out there. I imagine the day when I too shall own a brewhut.
 
mmb said:
But on walls I'd go with knockdown for just the brush by factor. If you bush up against orange peel, it may chip off. Knockdown is fairly flat as is and won't be affected.

Just from a professioal cook's perspective, I would keep it flat and paint it high gloss. Textured walls are hard to keep clean, expecially in a place where sprays and splashes happen. Smooth is easy to wipe done

Just my $.02

John
 
EdWort said:
How is it applied by a DIY'er

Do the cheap and easy DIY version.
Thin down some drywall mud with water and put it on the walls with a paint roller then paint like normal. I will give a nice texture without the need for trowel work and won't brush off if you hit it:D
 
Nwcw2001 said:
Just from a professioal cook's perspective, I would keep it flat and paint it high gloss. Textured walls are hard to keep clean, expecially in a place where sprays and splashes happen. Smooth is easy to wipe done

Just my $.02

John
I agree if cleaning is to be done on the walls. You won't see many textured walls inbathrooms or kitchens for this reason.
 
Knockdown/textured walls are a good quick finish if you don't want to have to do mudding, but nwcw2001 is right - it's a major PITA to both clean and repaint later.

BTW Edwort, I must say that your brew shack is in my top 5 HBT DIY along with Yuri's steam brewing, Brewpastor's Altar, JohnBeere's walk-in and either Bobby's chiller/FLyGuy's MLT/Yuri's Fermenter.

It's friggin awesome and I hope I make my way to Austin someday to see it. :mug:
 
FRP paneling (literally means Fire Retardant panel) is standard in my mind (in the kitchen part anyway). It's cheap, It's Plastic, and it's fire retardant. You can clean it with a towel, or a pressure washer.

+1 on the top of the list. I'm still working on getting SWMBO somewhere inside to park her car let clear alone the thought of a remote man Hut!
 
BigKahuna said:
FRP paneling (literally means Fire Retardant panel) is standard in my mind (in the kitchen part anyway). It's cheap, It's Plastic, and it's fire retardant. You can clean it with a towel, or a pressure washer.

+1 on the top of the list. I'm still working on getting SWMBO somewhere inside to park her car let clear alone the thought of a remote man Hut!


I was thinking the same thing..

Fiberglass reinforced panels are what you see in bathrooms of gas stations, 7-11's, some medical applications. I used to rep the product a few years ago. The main product was about .70 / sq. ft. plus adhesive and trims. the advantage is that you could actually hose out areas if you wanted. Up to you.

by the way, I'm green with envy. You'll have one of the best brew/man caves I've seen. Enjoy!
 
I have 3 comments:

Are you sure it's big enough?
Are you going to have room for a pool table in there?
I would have built it twice as big.... and it would still be too small ;)
 
EdWort said:
All right. I'll run an extra pipe with RG59 coax and 2 Cat6 lines out there. I'm sure I'll find some use for them. Thanks for the nudge.

I hadn't thought of it until recently while working on making a brewing space in my own garage, but I bet there's some digital thermometers that could be wired through the lines to displays in the house. :) Then I could check temperatures with a glance from inside the house.

My first wireless router wouldn't reach very well out to my detached garage (it's about 40' from house), so I almost used a line to add another wireless spot out there, but before I did I ended up buying a new wireless setup and it works fine in the garage.

I'm envious of your dedicated space. I'm converting garage space, but won't be able to insulate or really close it off, so it will still be a building I have to use as a garage, shop, etc.

Are you running satellite TV out there? I think I have a spare reciever. If you need one, drop me a PM and I'll check.
 
wow, I got to catch up on the 9-9-9 thread and this one this morning.....

Ed, everyone has already said it, but that's sweet man!
 
Ed, you're becoming a household name in my family with all your cool stuff and recipes I'm always sharing with them

That is fantastic!
 
After looking at John Beere's walk in cooler thread, I am wondering about the insulation for my cold room in the brewhaus.

I have an opportunity to pick up about 30 sheets of R-Matte 3 plus some cut sheets for about 200 bucks. After looking at the R-value, it looks like I would be better off with insulation batting and just a few sheets of this stuff.

Any comments on insulation materials for a cold room with one exterial wall? Thanks.
 
Batting is always much more bang in R value than foam board.

Stud dimensions will be the limiting factor . For 2x6 the standard R value is 19.
To make it super efficiant why not use batts and glue the foam boards to the studs?If you are drywalling either glue to the foam or use long drywall or decking screws. In your case this will stop alot of the heat tranfer from the stud to the drywall/cold to the warm outside wall. I did this in my home as the walls are only 2x4's
 
Since the entire brewhaus is 2x4, would it be good to do the entire inside with batting between studs, followed by the foam board, then sheet rock or paneling?
 
EdWort said:
Since the entire brewhaus is 2x4, would it be good to do the entire inside with batting between studs, followed by the foam board, then sheet rock or paneling?

Yes.

That what I did In my house as it was built in 1954 it had no insulation. As I gutted each room I used the R-15 owens corning batts then the pro pink 1/2 R-3 board with all seams taped followed with 1/2 drywall. What a differance in the house. Even though it was less than a 2x6 R-19 wall I dont have any transfer of the cold or heat thru the studs.
 

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