Brew controller finally installed at home

[oldschool]

For a couple years I had been brewing in a different space but I’ve moved everything to the garage. Added a couple circuits for the mash mixer and pump while at it.
Switching to electric was the way to go albeit some necessary learnings.

Criticism welcomed

 

[sibelman]

Looks nice and clean. You might 'invest' in a cheap label maker

 

[oldschool]

Looks nice and clean. You might 'invest' in a cheap label maker

Ha! Definitely should do something

 

[Wigglebutts Brewery]

Nice project!

 

[DuncB]

Nice, could you give some information about the mash mixer.

 

[oldschool]

Nice, could you give some information about the mash mixer.

I don’t like philosophy of circulating wort over the false bottom in the herms/rims process for a couple reasons and I wanted to do step mashes. So I got a home depot variable speed “mud mixer” and made an agitator out of stainless parts from amazon. The mixer luckily rests on the keg rim nicely and I used spring clamps to hold it in place. Works well overall.

Mash is heated with a 1650w 120v element.

I will manually turn on the mixer if the mash controller output is on/able to add heat.

For example, during a mash temp ramp the heat and mixer is of course on.
During a mash rest after temperature is met, I manually turn both off.
Then every 5-10 minutes I’ll need to turn both back on to bring the temp back up after some heat loss.

Depending on mash volume and environmental temp it heats the mash at 0.7-0.9c/minute.

Some learnings:
1) needed to get the controller adjusted to not overshoot when doing a rest temperature correction

2) Mash mixing speed should be fast during ramp but not so fast that air is getting whipped in

3) Mashing in below assumed gelatinization temperature will cause scorching on the element (<140 or so)
This took me 4 scorched elements to figure out. Also a scorched element doesn’t seem to recover from the cleaning very well and tends to scorch again eventually (in my experience).
If I do need a rest below that temp then I sit the kettle on a burner and adjust it manually using the controller temp probe.

4) To address point 3, I thought some enzymes could be added to prevent the scorching because I saw this once in an industrial setting with a rice mash that liked to stick on the steam jacket. But enzymes aren’t easy to find at retail.
I thought another possibility would be to pulse the relay output but that didn’t heat fast enough. Anyway I most always do a multistep infusion mash.

5) I needed a couple layers of insulation! Ignorant of me but thought I could get by without insulation. I’m using the silver bubble wrap stuff but am kn the lookout for something better if anyone has ideas!

Got about 30 brews on the electric system so far and it keeps chugging along.

 

[sibelman]

Here's some insulation you might like better: McMaster-Carr part 9349K4. I used this on my HERMS HLT for about 10 years, held on with straps. I didn't want adhesive because it would probably become a permanent mess on the outside of the HLT.

The "philosophy" of HERMS works well for me, but I respect that you have your (unstated) reasons for avoiding recirculation. I speculate that all the mixing you're doing might somewhat boost your lauter efficiency.

You mention putting your kettle on a burner -- if it's propane/gas, it could melt either your bubble wrap or this foam, which tolerates boiling temps but not flame.

If you can get a lid of some kind below or around your mixer, it could help quite a bit with maintaining temperature -- even with the hole needed for the mixer.

I don't know what kind of element you're using. One with a lower watt density could eliminate the scorching problem. However, I have only used elements submerged in water or wort, not in a mash.

Happy brewing!

 

[oldschool]

Here's some insulation you might like better: McMaster-Carr part 9349K4. I used this on my HERMS HLT for about 10 years, held on with straps. I didn't want adhesive because it would probably become a permanent mess on the outside of the HLT.

The "philosophy" of HERMS works well for me, but I respect that you have your (unstated) reasons for avoiding recirculation. I speculate that all the mixing you're doing might somewhat boost your lauter efficiency.

You mention putting your kettle on a burner -- if it's propane/gas, it could melt either your bubble wrap or this foam, which tolerates boiling temps but not flame.

If you can get a lid of some kind below or around your mixer, it could help quite a bit with maintaining temperature -- even with the hole needed for the mixer.

I don't know what kind of element you're using. One with a lower watt density could eliminate the scorching problem. However, I have only used elements submerged in water or wort, not in a mash.

Happy brewing!

I appreciate the feedback.
The primary reason I don’t like the recirc method is that I feel like the temperature would take a long time to become uniform in the entire mash when circulating the wort only- channeling etc.
Clearly it works for a lot of people regardless.
I think I’ll get a piece of that foam - thanks!
My bubble wrap does actually start to melt without some shielding on the burner stand but It doesn’t need much flame.
Also need to look into a cover of some kind.

Also I don’t know what kind of element I’m using, density wise. It’s a Denord from amazon.

Another pic of the inside and mixer for reference.

 

[DuncB]

Kmart used to sell hd foam sleeping mats with silver coating. Looked neat and good insulation. Held on for me with a bungee cord so it's easy to remove at the cooling stage.

 

[Bobby_M]

I wouldn't think that small of a stirring blade could adequately move the mash away from the element quick enough to avoid localized overheating but it doesn't look scorched. I'd experiment with more blades spaced along the vertical shaft.

 

[oldschool]

I wouldn't think that small of a stirring blade could adequately move the mash away from the element quick enough to avoid localized overheating but it doesn't look scorched. I'd experiment with more blades spaced along the vertical shaft.

I think I’m getting good mixing- have a look at the video.
Again I only will have an issue before gelatinization. Apparently there is a tipping point with the heat density when the starch isn’t completely hydrated.

 

[Deadalus]

You may not want to leave the garage door open in a driving rain. And hopefully the circuits(s) are GFCI protected.

 

[oldschool]

You may not want to leave the garage door open in a driving rain. And hopefully the circuits(s) are GFCI protected.

They are on GFCIs indeed

 

[Deadalus]

They are on GFCIs indeed

I figured most likely yes since you were moving circuits. My brew rig's panel also used to sit abour the same distance in when it was more mobile and I brewed outside. No back door at the garage level for me, my house is built into a hill so I had to make sure I didn't leave the door open and get it wet when it rained.

 

[oldschool]

I figured most likely yes since you were moving circuits. My brew rig's panel also used to sit abour the same distance in when it was more mobile and I brewed outside. No back door at the garage level for me, my house is built into a hill so I had to make sure I didn't leave the door open and get it wet when it rained.

Tbh I hadn’t really thought about rain but it’s good to keep in mind. I mounted it there so I also would be able to roll everything outside when boiling or whatever. Also I’m very tight on wall space