• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Brew Bucket by SS Brewing Technologies

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What are the model numbers in those fridges? Did you have to modify them at all to fit the bucket?
They're 4.0 cubic feet in size, Danby DWL458BLS wine fridges, shelves removed, no modifications required. Very happy with them. Just set the temp (39-64F) and walk away. Only improvement I'd suggest to the manufacturer would be to remember the temp setting between power off and on (it defaults to 55F).

Kal
 
They're 4.0 cubic feet in size, Danby DWL458BLS wine fridges, shelves removed, no modifications required. Very happy with them. Just set the temp (39-64F) and walk away. Only improvement I'd suggest to the manufacturer would be to remember the temp setting between power off and on (it defaults to 55F).



Kal


Thanks Kal!

By any chance can you take interior measurements of it please? I'm curious if it will fit their new 14 gallon bucket...
 
Best purchase of my brewing hobby so far was the brewmaster 7 gal bucket.

Used TSP and then starsan soak when I first got it. Cleaned with PBW and sanitized.. brewed a IPA couple weeks ago and its still in the fermenter.. kegging soon!

I really like the thermowell ... its a must have for me. Slide my temp probe from the temp controller in there and it gets the job done.

The racking arm/dump valve is kinda weird to get used to assembly wise. Hand tighten only. the o ring on the inside tends to pinch so I added some star san to it and didn't tighten the crap outta it and it sealed fine with no pinching.

Im most looking forward to not having to clean and siphon the auto siphon when kegging the beer... YES.
 
Thanks Kal!

By any chance can you take interior measurements of it please? I'm curious if it will fit their new 14 gallon bucket...
There is absolutely no way any fridge this size would fit their 14 gallon bucket (or any 14 gallon fermenter). The fridge only has an inch or two of clearance with their 7 gallon brew bucket.

Kal
 
There is absolutely no way any fridge this size would fit their 14 gallon bucket (or any 14 gallon fermenter). The fridge only has an inch or two of clearance with their 7 gallon brew bucket.



Kal


Well you have the taller cover on there...so depending on which dimension you are saying barely clears...

The standard 7 gal is 20.5"H X 12.5"W. The 14 gal is 24"H X 16"W.

I can add a collar for depth if the height works...
 
Definitely won't fit. The 24" height just fits but there's only 15" in width, and at the bottom the 8" high hump makes the depth only 12". Because of the hump (which pushes the brew bucket forward) the 7 gal only has an inch or so of clearance from the glass door.

Kal
 
When you guys rack, how do you position the dip tube? I have been starting off with he dip tube vertical facing up. Then just keeping my eye on it and rotating it down near the end when I can see the top.
I kind of had issues today when I wasn't able to rotate it in time and at the flow stopped. I couldn't get the flow to start again and ended up losing some beer.
Is there a better way I could be doing this?
This was my 5th batch, and I never had any problems before. Im kind of stumped on what went wrong...
 
I've yet to use my new brew bucket but in the conical I used to have I would start with the dip tube vertically in the down position and slowly turn it until the beer runs clear... then hook it to the keg and let gravity do its thing.
 
I find that the yeast cake and trub usually just about fills the conical bottom. So, I align my dip tube horizontally, pointed left -- about 9 o' clock. When I turn the valve, if it doesn't run clear in a few seconds I rotate the valve clockwise a bit, to about 10 o' clock. This gets the opening in the dip tube just above the yeast cake. Then I watch as it drains, and towards the end I may rotate the tube back closer to 9 o' clock.

You are not supposed to rotate CCW but I find you can do that a little bit without causing a leak. I would not try rotating from 3 o' clock to 9 o' clock, that's likely to loosen the nuts.
 
I stopped using the dip tube after two batches. It's easier for me to just tilt slightly at the end of the transfer and to not have to worry about a siphon or dip tube angle.
 
Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal
 
took a gravity reading last night... god I love having a valve. Neeeeever going back to my glass carboy again.
 
Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal

Why did you choose to use a threaded barb as opposed to 3" to 1.5" reducer and then standard 1.5 " tri-clamp 90 degree 1" diameter barb? Was it headroom issue in fridge (i.e. too tall)? I find that much easier to clean and keep from getting plugged up.

Does your 3" tri-clamp cap have the pressure relieve spring in it? If so, doesn't that get gummed up too? I have that particular barb (with original BrewBucket lid) and it has clogged on me with WY3787, which caused the sides of the BrewBucket to blow out and leak. Total mess...
 
Why did you choose to use a threaded barb as opposed to 3" to 1.5" reducer and then standard 1.5 " tri-clamp 90 degree 1" diameter barb? Was it headroom issue in fridge (i.e. too tall)?
Yup. Not only is it less height to do it the way I did but it's also less cost (less parts) and less tri-clover clamps and gaskets to deal with (so less work too).

I find that much easier to clean and keep from getting plugged up.
Really? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference and the extra volume you'd get for krausen to sit in from the reducer is probably only 6-8 oz no? It's higher, but krausen can go anywhere. As soon as the reducer fills, it would just keep pushing forward.

Does your 3" tri-clamp cap have the pressure relieve spring in it?
Yup! The standard spring loaded one they often include that is said to blow at around 2 to 2.5 PSI.

If so, doesn't that get gummed up too?
I've only brewed one batch so far, approx 5.5 gallons in the buckets, fermented with WLP002 in one and WLP095 in the other and the krausen wasn't high enough to get near the blow-off/pressure relieve valve.

I have that particular barb (with original BrewBucket lid) and it has clogged on me with WY3787, which caused the sides of the BrewBucket to blow out and leak. Total mess...
I can imagine! You're blow off hose or airlock would of course also have to get plugged up. I'm using 1/2" ID hose so it's pretty huge and thick walled so that it holds the shape well and doesn't kink so I'm hoping (knock on wood) that it would be fairly difficult for it to get plugged. (Airlocks on the other hand are fairly easy to plug given the small diameter opening.) I'll know next time I use WY3068 (weizen) - that stuff has crazy krausen!

Kal
 
When you guys rack, how do you position the dip tube? I have been starting off with he dip tube vertical facing up. Then just keeping my eye on it and rotating it down near the end when I can see the top.
I kind of had issues today when I wasn't able to rotate it in time and at the flow stopped. I couldn't get the flow to start again and ended up losing some beer.
Is there a better way I could be doing this?
This was my 5th batch, and I never had any problems before. Im kind of stumped on what went wrong...

I've always filled my fermenter (Chronical 7g) with dip tube pointed up, and found on all batches that as I rotated down I didn't pickup trub, this has been 2yrs now, many batches! This year I got two mini-brew buckets as I want to split batches to try different yeasts. I racked last w/e and had same result, could fully turn down w/o disturbing trub. Maybe the brew bucket dimensions are different? Also, I've never had issue with it restarting after flow stopped, but maybe it never completely stopped when I was below horizontal, idk.

I stopped using the dip tube after two batches. It's easier for me to just tilt slightly at the end of the transfer and to not have to worry about a siphon or dip tube angle.

Did you find if you left dip tube down you pull up trub? Again, I use the Chronical 7g & now mini-brew buckets and haven't seen this occur yet to the best of my memory.
 
Another picture of the lid assembly that gives you a bit more headroom for krausen and to make it easier to use an aeration wand and to add dry hops. YMMV. Works for me.

BrewBucketDomedLid728.jpg


I updated my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP guide as well with a list of parts: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step?page=11

Kal
Nice mod Kal... Wish I would have thought of that... I went with a NorCal TC fitting for my SS Brewtech buckets. Having the bubble top definitely helps (photo is fermentation remnants of a Robust Cream Ale - Gordon Strong recipe).

2016_0922Tilt_sm.jpg


BucketTOP_tilt.jpg
 
Yup. Not only is it less height to do it the way I did but it's also less cost (less parts) and less tri-clover clamps and gaskets to deal with (so less work too).
It's $45.90 + shipping for your setup vs $41.50 + shipping at BrewersHardware.com (including reducer, barb, flange, and clamp). I don't think cost is a deciding factor, but the 'standard' parts are cheaper. However, if it won't fit... well, it won't fit! I will note cleaning it easier below for other reasons. Also, note, I use the 3" domed lid with barb for my 14 gal Chronical and I use the normal flat lid with the 17mm barb you are using with my BrewBucket.

Really? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference and the extra volume you'd get for krausen to sit in from the reducer is probably only 6-8 oz no? It's higher, but krausen can go anywhere. As soon as the reducer fills, it would just keep pushing forward.
Definitely - I have yet to clog the 1" hose. The 17mm opening has been plugged solid a couple times on me. Now, that being said, I was using the original lid. You are using a domed lid which will definitely get you more headroom and enough you might never see the issue.

Yup! The standard spring loaded one they often include that is said to blow at around 2 to 2.5 PSI.

I've only brewed one batch so far, approx 5.5 gallons in the buckets, fermented with WLP002 in one and WLP095 in the other and the krausen wasn't high enough to get near the blow-off/pressure relieve valve.
I actually dislike the pressure relief valves on the Chronical. It's one of their biggest faults in my mind. I ended up buying the 3" lid specifically because it does NOT have one so I could do a proper pressure transfer with my conical. The relief valve would constantly release at well under 1 psi and waste loads of CO2. I would consider getting the 3" domed lid for my BB if only to re-use the 17mm barb except for the pressure relief valve on the cap with 17mm hole. Seems like it would be a pain to clean krausen out of the spring.

I can imagine! You're blow off hose or airlock would of course also have to get plugged up. I'm using 1/2" ID hose so it's pretty huge and thick walled so that it holds the shape well and doesn't kink so I'm hoping (knock on wood) that it would be fairly difficult for it to get plugged. (Airlocks on the other hand are fairly easy to plug given the small diameter opening.) I'll know next time I use WY3068 (weizen) - that stuff has crazy krausen!
Kal
That barb that got clogged was sitting a couple inches above the wort (6 gals or so). The issue was not the hose per se, the blow off actually worked well for awhile. At 17mm, the opening of the barb had a small build up that stuck there and continued to grow. When it finally got stuck full up, the clamps on the side were apparently weaker than the krausen plug and... ugh. Cleaning that barb was a bit of a pain - getting it out of the threads. It eventually worked free with PBW soak and scrub brush.

The barb and reducer are definitely easier to clean. You can literally just pitch them into a bit of PBW and they clean out easily (fingers fit and they are smooth!). I throw them into either my CIP bucket when I clean my conical or into the basin for Mark's Keg washer. They come out nice and clean without scrubbing, while the krausen managed to loosen but stay in that threaded barb.

As I said earlier however - if that setup won't fit, then you really don't have much else of a choice. Just be aware that those 17mm barbs definitely do clog. :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was going through this process before Christmas as I was downsizing my equipment to 5 gallons and less and couldn't find anything... I ended up getting two of these:

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/126-can-dsv-in-club-886159/prod18910248.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1

They fit a brewbucket perfectly... not much space for anything else but my heater and blow-off collection vessel. I think the domed lit might fit fine, but not sure if you could do anything beyond that aside from an elbow off the top (I use the flat tops modified with a barbed outlet that has a silicone tube down to one of Jay's Krausen collectors). I'm really happy with them so far, one is controlled by a DIY Brewpi with the second to get that control soon once I build out the extra Arduino/Relay/Probe setup.
 
Nice mod Kal... Wish I would have thought of that... I went with a NorCal TC fitting for my SS Brewtech buckets. Having the bubble top definitely helps (photo is fermentation remnants of a Robust Cream Ale - Gordon Strong recipe).
How do you clean those arms (and are sure they are clean)? After my 17mm barb mishap, all new blow-offs have to be 1" for me. That opening looks like 1/2" (~13mm) and begging to be plugged.
 
It's $45.90 + shipping for your setup vs $41.50 + shipping at BrewersHardware.com (including reducer, barb, flange, and clamp).
Ah! Ok, if not using SSBrewtech parts maybe it's cheaper elsewhere. That said, are you sure about $41.50? You need a 1.5" flange with barb on it ($12), the reducer ($20), and two sets of tri-clover clamps and gaskets (not one) at 3" at $7.50 and 1.5" at $5.50 plus $2 for gaskets, for a total of about $47. Like you said, it's not the price though - it's about the same, but it won't fit in my fridge. ;)

Definitely - I have yet to clog the 1" hose.
Ok - that's a lot bigger then. My pricing above probably changes too then but like you said, whatever, if it won't fit it doesn't matter how cheap it is. ;)

You are using a domed lid which will definitely get you more headroom and enough you might never see the issue.
Yup. Hope so. That was one of the reasons to get it. The dome was covered in krausen at the end of fermentation but had zero blow-off. Had I used the standard flat lid I would have definitely had some blow-off.

I actually dislike the pressure relief valves on the Chronical. It's one of their biggest faults in my mind.
I can't say I'm a huge fan of it either after seeing it in person. I'd prefer nothing at all, but I understand why they include one.

Seems like it would be a pain to clean krausen out of the spring.
Agreed. For small stuff like that I tend to put it in a stainless bowl and spray with liquid Oxiclean or PBW plus hot water and just leave it for 24 hours.

Kal
 
How do you clean those arms (and are sure they are clean)? After my 17mm barb mishap, all new blow-offs have to be 1" for me. That opening looks like 1/2" (~13mm) and begging to be plugged.

I soak the crap out of them using Craftmeister Alkaline Brewery Wash.
 
Ah! Ok, if not using SSBrewtech parts maybe it's cheaper elsewhere. That said, are you sure about $41.50? You need a 1.5" flange with barb on it ($12), the reducer ($20), and two sets of tri-clover clamps and gaskets (not one) at 3" at $7.50 and 1.5" at $5.50 plus $2 for gaskets, for a total of about $47. Like you said, it's not the price though - it's about the same, but it won't fit in my fridge. ;)
I was only including the differences. You require a 3" clamp and o-ring in both scenarios, right? So, for yours, the delta is 17mm barb ($18) + 3" cap with 17mm hole and pressure valve ($28). That's $46 (45.90). For mine, 1.5" clamp ($5.50), gasket ($1), 1" 90 degree hose barb ($15), and reducer ($20) - hence the $41.50. I don't think SS Brewtech even sells a 1" 90 degree barb.

P.S., the price on 3" clamp and 3" o-ring at BrewersHardware.com vs SS Brewtech is $8.70 vs $10.30. So, there is actually a bit more savings if you shopped all at BrewersHardware.com.
 
When you guys rack, how do you position the dip tube? I have been starting off with he dip tube vertical facing up. Then just keeping my eye on it and rotating it down near the end when I can see the top.
I kind of had issues today when I wasn't able to rotate it in time and at the flow stopped. I couldn't get the flow to start again and ended up losing some beer.
Is there a better way I could be doing this?
This was my 5th batch, and I never had any problems before. Im kind of stumped on what went wrong...

I face it horizontally (as per the instructions). Then once I can actually see it I rotate as needed, even if needed.
 
OK. So I have a single fast ferment. Due to the size it's the only thing I can fit in my fridge for fermentation. The 7 gallon brew bucket I can fit 2 of them. Does it really matter that I can dump the trub and dead yeast? These things look impressive.
 
If you're racking off or packaging your beer after primary I wouldn't be concerned at all with being able to dump the trub- it'll have no effect on your fermentation or the beer.
 
If you're racking off or packaging your beer after primary I wouldn't be concerned at all with being able to dump the trub- it'll have no effect on your fermentation or the beer.

What I'm after is being able to keg right out of the bucket. I don't want to use a secondary. I do dry hop a lot though
 
You can do that... I don't secondary either. I do have to lift the bucket out of my fridge and then I just put it on the table and gravity drain into a purged keg with the PRV unscrewed. Drains in about 15 minutes without any issues.

I'm not sure how much dry hopping would affect things as I haven't done a big dry hop batch yet, but I suspect it would be similar to the conical I had... just turn the racking arm above the detritus and you'll be good.
 
Back
Top