Breakers in control panel ?

[augiedoggy]

I thought I was clear that the 30amp overprotection means it is a 30amp circuit. It does not matter if a device on that circuit uses 1 amp or 30. Using your logic, you could use 22 gauge wire to a device using 3 amps and still use a 30amp breaker. Does this make sense?

I think we are done beating this dead horse.

The elements are on their own power cords one their own outlets and just plug into the the control panel ... they are not hardwired...

again this is just like a lamp with 18awg cord might plug into a 15a or 20a household circuit only protected at the main box with a 15 or 20a breaker....

Do you have every device thats plugged in to your household outlets protected with its own breaker to match its draw? how is this different??
please explain the reason behind why its fine not to there but its needed here?

Im sorry but if you pull apart a lot of control panels here you will see that each individual component is not always protected with its own breaker or even fuse. ideally it would make things even safer yes I will admit it just as if You or I put a fuse on every device in my house that doesnt have one...but you still have guys using these who dont even have them on GFCI protection... My point was that a fuses work just as well as an expensive din rail full of breakers.


I like you you turned this into being all about not having any protection for smaller circuits being powered off a larger one as opposed to my original comments actually being about fuses being more practical than breakers and 25A cable being more practical for 19 or 23A loads than 30A cable. you must have miseed were I stated I use a 1/2amp fuse for my pid power. and honestly if the element power cord wasnt already rated at close to the 30a breakers potential and I didnt already know that realistically a short 6ft section of this wire which is rated at 600v and 25a and will support more than that and a lower voltage such as 240v I might have gone through the extra wiring for that 1 in a million chance the element would somehow have some sort of failure that caused it to draw only between 25 and 30a... in 17 years of repairing equipment with heat lamps and rods I have yet to ever see something like this happen.

 

[Fatman_Brew]

Yep, you got me. Everything I said was wrong.

Cheers.

 

[stlbeer]

To the OP - seems like you've set off WW3 in the electric brewing forum. I've been active in this forum for many years and all I can say is that you've hit a nerve.

Hopefully these 2 guys, who have consumed a lot of space in your post, will agree to disagree and stop with the back and forth.

I for one would like to see more about how your build is going. I watched intently as you build your SS gas fired rig and at that time thought you should have gone electric with with. Glad to see you've seen the light!

Not all discussions are a boisterous as this one, but you sure get many points of view!

Cheers!

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm not even sure we agree on what were disagreeing about!
In any case I dropped it .. Thanks for stirring the pot.

I do stand my original point... fuses will do the same job as a breaker more economically and I believe the cord on an appliance should only have to be rated for what that appliance draws at max.

 

[lehr]

I ask for opinions and I got them, each person argues what they consider vaild a point, I just read them and gather what knowledge I can.

stlbeer, I will put together a build update when I get all my part.

Thanks all,
Pat