Bray's One Month Mead

[jdanderson1449]

I gave my batch its first round of nutrients last night after degassing on day 5. Mixed it again and as soon as I put the lid on, activity took right off again. Almost as much as within the first couple of days.

 

[jdanderson1449]

My mead is quickly reaching full fermentation it's currently right around 1020 so I expect active fermentation to be finished this weekend. And it tastes good!

That being said, has anyone had any luck cold crashing? I'm not trying to rush the process just a curiosity. I may rack a single gallon to a secondary and try it out. Because why not.

 

[loveofrose]

Cold crashing works very well. If you want crazy fast clearing, hit it with SuperKleer then cold crash.


Better brewing through science!

 

[jdanderson1449]

I think I'll abstain from using any clearing agents for the time being.

I read in an earlier comment on this thread that some have had finished mead using your method in as little as ten days with good varietal honeys. Unfortunately, I live in an area where coming by those can be very expensive but I did get a hold of twelve pounds of good clean wildflower honey for a good price. What I have tasted from the fermenter over the last few days was more than acceptable.

I'm very excited for a finished example, clear or not.

 

[threeway]

For 5 gallons, It's 1 TBSP DAP + 2 TBSP Fermaid K at 3 points for a total of 9 TBSP of nutrient. Must creation (1.099), 2/3 break (1.066), & 1/3 break (1.033).


Better brewing through science!

Is first post a typo then?

 

[loveofrose]

Yes. A copy paste typo that has been haunting me ever since.


Better brewing through science!

 

[Joemomma]

Thinking about trying this as my first attempt at mead. Question ... It says to "Aerate daily by shaking". Is this just until you start seeing airlock activity or throughout the whole fermentation process? Should an airlock even be used if aerating the primary often is a good thing for mead? Sorry if this has been asked before. I haven't had a chance to go through the whole thread yet.

Cheers
~Joe

 

[jdanderson1449]

I started this about 10 days ago. I used an airlock. With a 5 gallon batch, I used a drill mounted mixer (the same kind used for mixing paint). You'll see airlock activity almost immediately if you made a starter. I don't think it'll hurt if you use an airlock but I'd bet you don't need one for at least two weeks considering how active this yeast is. They're monsters.

 

[threeway]

Yes. A copy paste typo that has been haunting me ever since.


Better brewing through science!

Thanks for the clarification. I found where you posted in other spots with the TBSP notation and then one post where you said TSPs may work also since you have since reduced the amount of nutrients so I was totally befuddled. Pitched starter last night. We'll see what happens! Not sure what kid of honey. My brew store had 5 lbs glass jars of some dark looking stuff with no label. That's the best kind right?
hoping for non-buckwheat!

 

[loveofrose]

I leave the airlock on to keep flies, air bacteria, and assorted varmints out. The first week the airlock is not necessary if you don't have those issues.


Better brewing through science!

 

[IJesusChrist]

I don't always put an airlock on my mead for the first 2-3 days. Often what I'll do is just place the top of the bucket on (with no hole drilled in it) but not snap it on, so its loosely on. I take it off often enough to stir that its a pain to pry on and off all the time anyway.

Day 4 it usually goes snapped on.

**Buckwheat has a smell and a taste. Taste it and you'll know, especially if you have some "standard" honey in the house to compare. I bought this "organic, raw natural" stuff from the store for a few years for tea additive. Then recently again. Wow was it like a barn. I looked at the label to see where it was sourced from, or any kind of information - nothing. IT's just a jar with "Raw natural honey" printed on it. No company name, no contact info, nothing... Kind of weird, but apparently they just put in whatever they can get!

 

[threeway]

"Add 3/4 tsp potassium carbonate."

This is only at must creation? not at the sugar breaks?

would you add more if you re-used the lees?

 

[loveofrose]

"Add 3/4 tsp potassium carbonate."

This is only at must creation? not at the sugar breaks?

would you add more if you re-used the lees?

One time addition at must creation.
Re using the lees would require a fresh addition.


Better brewing through science!

 

[Kyzaboy89]

Pitched last night, opted to try the BOMM over another experiment to see how it goes. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
S.G. 1.096
Temp 67 (house is steady 68)

 

[jdanderson1449]

I've siphoned off a gallon to cold crash. My intent is to prime and bottle the rest any thoughts on how much corn sugar to use to prime about four gallons. I'm thinking 2/3 cup to a cup of water. Prime and bottle as with beer.

 

[brottman]

Need help!

I'm on my second attempt at BOMM, and my second attempt is beginning to stall around 1.03 just like my first attempt. Especially for the 2nd try, I followed the protocol as closely as I possibly could. I just took a PH reading and it is some where north of 4.0. Possible 4.1 or 4.2. Could this be a reason it is stalling? It was a 5 gallon batch that started with a 3 day yeast starter, and got the initial one-time dose of 3/4 tbsp Calcium Bicarbonate. It has also received the recommended DAP + Fermaid K doses at must creation, and again around 1.06 (my first calculated sugar break). The next sugar break (1.03) is when it should get the final dose of nutrients, but it's not quite there yet. It's nearly at a standstill at 1.035 and it is day 8.

OG: 1.1

Do I need to lower the PH to save this? It's happening all over again!

 

[buzzerj]

Brottman you sure you didn't use Potassium Bicarbonate and not Calcium Carbonate (chalk)?

 

[brottman]

Brottman you sure you didn't use Potassium Bicarbonate and not Calcium Carbonate (chalk)?

Sorry, it's LD Carlson Calcium Carbonate
https://storefront.ldcarlson.com/st...60&order-uom=&warehouse-id=2&item-number=6160

 

[loveofrose]

There is your problem. It has to be potassium carbonate (K2CO3) or potassium bicarbonate(KHCO3). Not only does K2CO3 buffer pH, but it is needed to provide potassium. Potassium allows the yeast to tolerate high ABV.

You can get it at www.morebeer.com.


Better brewing through science!

 

[brottman]

There is your problem. It has to be potassium carbonate (K2CO3) or potassium bicarbonate(KHCO3). Not only does K2CO3 buffer pH, but it is needed to provide potassium. Potassium allows the yeast to tolerate high ABV.

You can get it at www.morebeer.com.

So, did I have a serious misunderstanding of the use of (in my case calcium carbonate)? I thought it was nearly the equivelant of potassium bicarbonate. LD Carlson states its purpose is "Lowers acidity in wine. Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon to lower acidity 0.1%. Use before fermentation".

More importantly - is there anything I can do to save this batch?

 

[loveofrose]

So, did I have a serious misunderstanding of the use of (in my case calcium carbonate)? I thought it was nearly the equivelant of potassium bicarbonate. LD Carlson states its purpose is "Lowers acidity in wine. Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon to lower acidity 0.1%. Use before fermentation".

More importantly - is there anything I can do to save this batch?

Not equivalent for two reasons: solubility and mineral. Calcium carbonate is not nearly as soluble and has less buffering capacity as a result. In addition, potassium (not calcium) is a very limited nutrient in honey that is important for boosting yeast alcohol tolerance.

To save this batch, you can add K2CO3 to get it moving followed by acid blend to get the taste right OR add a bananna. Whole.



Better brewing through science!

 

[buzzerj]

Well it's a bit late to add potassium now but it probably would be worth a try to see if you can rouse the yeast. If you can score some Potassium Carbonate or Potassium Bicarbonate quickly at your local Homebrew store, add 1 3/4 tsp, carefully stir to get the yeast back up in suspension without adding oxygen back in and give it a dose of DAP (2 tsps) and see what happens. Maybe add a couple tsps of acid blend to try to acidify the must back toward a pH of 3.5 if it will go there with all the buffer you would be putting in. Stir it gently and watch for fermentation to start. Let us know how this experiment progresses to restart a stuck fermentation. Any other recommendations Bray?

 

[brottman]

Well it's a bit late to add potassium now but it probably would be worth a try to see if you can rouse the yeast. If you can score some Potassium Carbonate or Potassium Bicarbonate quickly at your local Homebrew store, add 1 3/4 tsp, carefully stir to get the yeast back up in suspension without adding oxygen back in and give it a dose of DAP (2 tsps) and see what happens. Maybe add a couple tsps of acid blend to try to acidify the must back toward a pH of 3.5 if it will go there with all the buffer you would be putting in. Stir it gently and watch for fermentation to start. Let us know how this experiment progresses to restart a stuck fermentation. Any other recommendations Bray?

I will be running to my LHBS tomorrow morning to get some potassium bicarbonate. I still don't fully understand why the calcium carbonate is causing this to stall, but I want to express my appreciation for your's and Bray's help! I will report back when I have any new information.

Quick question - if I have sabotaged this batch with the calcium carbonate - is it wise to start a new half batch, and try to slowly add my "bad" mead to it to get it to ferment all the way?

Last question - Taste wise, did I ruin my mead by adding calcium carbonate (chalk) to it? I didn't fully realize what I had until I looked just now! I knew the recipe called for Something Carbonate, and I just figured I had the other thing that "will work". Right now, I'm drowning my sorrows in vodka

 

[loveofrose]

In truth, I don't know what effect calcium carbonate will have. If it tastes chalky, you know why. Obviously it buffered pH just fine, but without potassium, the yeast cannot transport ethanol across the cell membrane to outside the cell. As a result, the yeast stall out prematurely due to high intracellular concentrations of alcohol.

Out is better than in, I always say!


Better brewing through science!

 

[buzzerj]

I don't think you are in a world of hurt brottman, just get your yeast started up again. It's just as Bray said. Be kind to your yeast. They make the alcohol as best they can. If you make the honey based sugar water and feed them the right nutrients, the yeast will do the work. Get them going and they will take this batch dry. Once they do you may be able to actually get some Ca++ out using a negatively charged fining agent like Kieselsol with Chitosan (SuperKleer). But that still will work better on positively charged particles rather than calcium ions. I still think you are ok, just concentrate on giving your yeast a chance to perk up and better resist their already toxic alcohol environment.

 

[Joemomma]

Just did a 1G batch of this using 3lbs OB honey. Can't wait to start sampling in a few weeks! I'm going without an airlock for the first week or so (just using a piece of cloth to keep things out).

This is my first mead attempt so not sure what to expect. I didn't leave much headspace so am hoping the fermentation doesn't cause a blowout.



~Joe

 

[buzzerj]

I've siphoned off a gallon to cold crash. My intent is to prime and bottle the rest any thoughts on how much corn sugar to use to prime about four gallons. I'm thinking 2/3 cup to a cup of water. Prime and bottle as with beer.

If you intend to make a sparkling mead, use a solution of 2 1/2 tablespoons of sugar per gallon of mead. Use corn sugar if you prefer. Stir it in gently so as not to oxidize your mead. Then be sure to bottle in a beer or champagne bottle so it can take the carbonation pressure. Store at room temp for 2 weeks then chill assuming you want a cold mead.

 

[buzzerj]

Joemomma, methinks you will have a rude awakening when you make the nutrient additions. You very well may experience a nice volcano when a portion of your mead must suddenly might want to exit the container when the nutrients hit the solution. You called it a blowout and you are thinking well my friend. Glad you anticipated it beforehand. You may want to get a bit resourceful with a clean and sanitized jar and pour off some of your must (maybe a pint), slowly add the nutrients, watch the activity and once it calms down after a few minutes, slowly add back the pint. Next batch you may want to use a larger primary container to better accommodate the activity of the yeast once they see a nutrient addition. But you are studying well my friend and you are thinking on the right wavelength. Let us know if your precautions during nutrient additions have saved you from losing some of your precious BOMM.

 

[Joemomma]

Joemomma, methinks you will have a rude awakening when you make the nutrient additions. You very well may experience a nice volcano when a portion of your mead must suddenly might want to exit the container when the nutrients hit the solution. You called it a blowout and you are thinking well my friend. Glad you anticipated it beforehand. You may want to get a bit resourceful with a clean and sanitized jar and pour off some of your must (maybe a pint), slowly add the nutrients, watch the activity and once it calms down after a few minutes, slowly add back the pint. Next batch you may want to use a larger primary container to better accommodate the activity of the yeast once they see a nutrient addition. But you are studying well my friend and you are thinking on the right wavelength. Let us know if your precautions during nutrient additions have saved you from losing some of your precious BOMM.

Thanks for the tip buzzerj! I'll try your suggestion and see how it goes. I have a few of the 1G jugs and would like to be able to dedicate them to meads.

~Joe

 

[threeway]

I've used gypsum before cause a buddy used it and it's in some other recipes. I managed to get to 10 % abv I think. It's quite sour but I also added citric acid before I tasted. Still learning. It's not the end of the world. Back sweetening can help too.