What would a "stable" specific gravity be?
or is sg just what it is when its measured? meaning add or subtract untill reading correctly? sorry Ive actually never brewed anything before and Iam gearing up for this reciepe soon. thanks charlie
so I've found the same recipe on a few sites all posted by bray. few say tsp for nutrients other say tbsp. i started my batch with tbsp and half way through decided to look at other sites thats when i sow tsp. can anyone tell me what one it is supposed to be?
For those looking for Fermaid O, I found it here:
http://dpwigley.com/hoptoit/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6234
Even with shipping it beat everywhere else hands down.
I will remember no acid for later meads. At k east it didnt hurt this one to much. Day 5 and its at 1.00. Ok just to clear things up do you mean that you dont nead dap if fermaid o is used or that the fermaid k and o are interchangeable with the only difference being O only needs 1 TBSP for each addition to 5 gal. If so then cut 1 gal addition in half as well? Thank you for all your help, this mead is a god send
Question on the Potassium Carbonate / Potassium Bicarbonate: Don't these supply a very different amount of potassium, and a different amount of buffering? The formulas are:
Potassium carbonate: K-CO3-K
Potassium Bicarbonate K-HCO3
One could easily decompose the Potassium Bicarbonate into Potassium carbonate in my oven if desired... has there been no difference in performance when adding equal masses of each? Or are we getting away with it because of different molecular amounts at equal volumes?
As far as buffering is concerned, the pKa is about the same for either compound. As a result, you have to add the same amount to get the same buffering. That is why we add the same amount. To keep the pH buffered.
Concerning K+, K2CO3 adds slightly less than double the K+ of KHCO3. KHCO3 adds enough trace K+ for the yeast to transport ethanol across the membrane. Adding slightly double of this trace amount doesn't really effect anything.
Trying some tonight, and it smells and tastes just slightly rubbery. ... just a bit of rubber in it.
Whenever I hear "rubbery" I immediately think about chloramine: I'm still bitter about losing a 6 gallon batch to "bottled" water that was from a municipal source. Did you use a proven water source?
Trying a BOMM that's just about (is exactly) a month (31 days) made from local (within 50 miles) locust blossom. Admittedly, I had some blowout (sprayed all over the kitchen while shaking around day 3), but overall about normal for my meads. Trying some tonight, and it smells and tastes just slightly rubbery. Based on other comments, I'm not sure if this is the honey or if my previous attempts were just slightly more sanitary (I follow the same One Step/StarSan process for all fermentations). Thoughts? It still tastes good (to quote a former President), just a bit of rubber in it.
Questions to help troubleshoot:
What yeast did you use?
What water did you use?
What was the fermentation temperature and was it steady?
Was it exposed to light?
Rubber flavors are a sign of yeast autolysis from stressed, unhappy yeast. Something you are doing is seriously stressing the yeast. Any ideas?
So its day 11 and for 2 or 3 days my BOMM has a darker film on top of carboy, kinda looks like mead after it starts to clear. It separated then has not done anything else. Also tasted it just to see and it taste not very good. Still early i know. Anyone have an idea what happened?
I wish you luck with Nottingham. I'm currently in the middle of a yeast experiment with 6 yeast. So far, Nottingham ranks last.
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