Bray's One Month Mead

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I don't always put an airlock on my mead for the first 2-3 days. Often what I'll do is just place the top of the bucket on (with no hole drilled in it) but not snap it on, so its loosely on. I take it off often enough to stir that its a pain to pry on and off all the time anyway.

Day 4 it usually goes snapped on.

**Buckwheat has a smell and a taste. Taste it and you'll know, especially if you have some "standard" honey in the house to compare. I bought this "organic, raw natural" stuff from the store for a few years for tea additive. Then recently again. Wow was it like a barn. I looked at the label to see where it was sourced from, or any kind of information - nothing. IT's just a jar with "Raw natural honey" printed on it. No company name, no contact info, nothing... Kind of weird, but apparently they just put in whatever they can get!
 
"Add 3/4 tsp potassium carbonate."

This is only at must creation? not at the sugar breaks?

would you add more if you re-used the lees?
 
threeway said:
"Add 3/4 tsp potassium carbonate."

This is only at must creation? not at the sugar breaks?

would you add more if you re-used the lees?
Click to expand...


One time addition at must creation.
Re using the lees would require a fresh addition.


Better brewing through science!
 
Pitched last night, opted to try the BOMM over another experiment to see how it goes. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
S.G. 1.096
Temp 67 (house is steady 68)
 
I've siphoned off a gallon to cold crash. My intent is to prime and bottle the rest any thoughts on how much corn sugar to use to prime about four gallons. I'm thinking 2/3 cup to a cup of water. Prime and bottle as with beer.
 
Need help!

I'm on my second attempt at BOMM, and my second attempt is beginning to stall around 1.03 just like my first attempt. Especially for the 2nd try, I followed the protocol as closely as I possibly could. I just took a PH reading and it is some where north of 4.0. Possible 4.1 or 4.2. Could this be a reason it is stalling? It was a 5 gallon batch that started with a 3 day yeast starter, and got the initial one-time dose of 3/4 tbsp Calcium Bicarbonate. It has also received the recommended DAP + Fermaid K doses at must creation, and again around 1.06 (my first calculated sugar break). The next sugar break (1.03) is when it should get the final dose of nutrients, but it's not quite there yet. It's nearly at a standstill at 1.035 and it is day 8.

OG: 1.1

Do I need to lower the PH to save this? It's happening all over again!
 
There is your problem. It has to be potassium carbonate (K2CO3) or potassium bicarbonate(KHCO3). Not only does K2CO3 buffer pH, but it is needed to provide potassium. Potassium allows the yeast to tolerate high ABV.

You can get it at www.morebeer.com.


Better brewing through science!
 
loveofrose said:
There is your problem. It has to be potassium carbonate (K2CO3) or potassium bicarbonate(KHCO3). Not only does K2CO3 buffer pH, but it is needed to provide potassium. Potassium allows the yeast to tolerate high ABV.

You can get it at www.morebeer.com.
Click to expand...

So, did I have a serious misunderstanding of the use of (in my case calcium carbonate)? I thought it was nearly the equivelant of potassium bicarbonate. LD Carlson states its purpose is "Lowers acidity in wine. Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon to lower acidity 0.1%. Use before fermentation".

More importantly - is there anything I can do to save this batch?
 
brottman said:
So, did I have a serious misunderstanding of the use of (in my case calcium carbonate)? I thought it was nearly the equivelant of potassium bicarbonate. LD Carlson states its purpose is "Lowers acidity in wine. Use 1/2 teaspoon per gallon to lower acidity 0.1%. Use before fermentation".

More importantly - is there anything I can do to save this batch?
Click to expand...


Not equivalent for two reasons: solubility and mineral. Calcium carbonate is not nearly as soluble and has less buffering capacity as a result. In addition, potassium (not calcium) is a very limited nutrient in honey that is important for boosting yeast alcohol tolerance.

To save this batch, you can add K2CO3 to get it moving followed by acid blend to get the taste right OR add a bananna. Whole.



Better brewing through science!
 
Well it's a bit late to add potassium now but it probably would be worth a try to see if you can rouse the yeast. If you can score some Potassium Carbonate or Potassium Bicarbonate quickly at your local Homebrew store, add 1 3/4 tsp, carefully stir to get the yeast back up in suspension without adding oxygen back in and give it a dose of DAP (2 tsps) and see what happens. Maybe add a couple tsps of acid blend to try to acidify the must back toward a pH of 3.5 if it will go there with all the buffer you would be putting in. Stir it gently and watch for fermentation to start. Let us know how this experiment progresses to restart a stuck fermentation. Any other recommendations Bray?
 
buzzerj said:
Well it's a bit late to add potassium now but it probably would be worth a try to see if you can rouse the yeast. If you can score some Potassium Carbonate or Potassium Bicarbonate quickly at your local Homebrew store, add 1 3/4 tsp, carefully stir to get the yeast back up in suspension without adding oxygen back in and give it a dose of DAP (2 tsps) and see what happens. Maybe add a couple tsps of acid blend to try to acidify the must back toward a pH of 3.5 if it will go there with all the buffer you would be putting in. Stir it gently and watch for fermentation to start. Let us know how this experiment progresses to restart a stuck fermentation. Any other recommendations Bray?
Click to expand...

I will be running to my LHBS tomorrow morning to get some potassium bicarbonate. I still don't fully understand why the calcium carbonate is causing this to stall, but I want to express my appreciation for your's and Bray's help! I will report back when I have any new information.

Quick question - if I have sabotaged this batch with the calcium carbonate - is it wise to start a new half batch, and try to slowly add my "bad" mead to it to get it to ferment all the way?

Last question - Taste wise, did I ruin my mead by adding calcium carbonate (chalk) to it? I didn't fully realize what I had until I looked just now! I knew the recipe called for Something Carbonate, and I just figured I had the other thing that "will work". Right now, I'm drowning my sorrows in vodka :(
 
In truth, I don't know what effect calcium carbonate will have. If it tastes chalky, you know why. Obviously it buffered pH just fine, but without potassium, the yeast cannot transport ethanol across the cell membrane to outside the cell. As a result, the yeast stall out prematurely due to high intracellular concentrations of alcohol.

Out is better than in, I always say!


Better brewing through science!
 
I don't think you are in a world of hurt brottman, just get your yeast started up again. It's just as Bray said. Be kind to your yeast. They make the alcohol as best they can. If you make the honey based sugar water and feed them the right nutrients, the yeast will do the work. Get them going and they will take this batch dry. Once they do you may be able to actually get some Ca++ out using a negatively charged fining agent like Kieselsol with Chitosan (SuperKleer). But that still will work better on positively charged particles rather than calcium ions. I still think you are ok, just concentrate on giving your yeast a chance to perk up and better resist their already toxic alcohol environment.
 
Just did a 1G batch of this using 3lbs OB honey. Can't wait to start sampling in a few weeks! I'm going without an airlock for the first week or so (just using a piece of cloth to keep things out).

This is my first mead attempt so not sure what to expect. I didn't leave much headspace so am hoping the fermentation doesn't cause a blowout.

20141217_230308.jpg

~Joe:mug:
 
jdanderson1449 said:
I've siphoned off a gallon to cold crash. My intent is to prime and bottle the rest any thoughts on how much corn sugar to use to prime about four gallons. I'm thinking 2/3 cup to a cup of water. Prime and bottle as with beer.
Click to expand...

If you intend to make a sparkling mead, use a solution of 2 1/2 tablespoons of sugar per gallon of mead. Use corn sugar if you prefer. Stir it in gently so as not to oxidize your mead. Then be sure to bottle in a beer or champagne bottle so it can take the carbonation pressure. Store at room temp for 2 weeks then chill assuming you want a cold mead.
 
Joemomma, methinks you will have a rude awakening when you make the nutrient additions. You very well may experience a nice volcano when a portion of your mead must suddenly might want to exit the container when the nutrients hit the solution. You called it a blowout and you are thinking well my friend. Glad you anticipated it beforehand. You may want to get a bit resourceful with a clean and sanitized jar and pour off some of your must (maybe a pint), slowly add the nutrients, watch the activity and once it calms down after a few minutes, slowly add back the pint. Next batch you may want to use a larger primary container to better accommodate the activity of the yeast once they see a nutrient addition. But you are studying well my friend and you are thinking on the right wavelength. Let us know if your precautions during nutrient additions have saved you from losing some of your precious BOMM.
 
buzzerj said:
Joemomma, methinks you will have a rude awakening when you make the nutrient additions. You very well may experience a nice volcano when a portion of your mead must suddenly might want to exit the container when the nutrients hit the solution. You called it a blowout and you are thinking well my friend. Glad you anticipated it beforehand. You may want to get a bit resourceful with a clean and sanitized jar and pour off some of your must (maybe a pint), slowly add the nutrients, watch the activity and once it calms down after a few minutes, slowly add back the pint. Next batch you may want to use a larger primary container to better accommodate the activity of the yeast once they see a nutrient addition. But you are studying well my friend and you are thinking on the right wavelength. Let us know if your precautions during nutrient additions have saved you from losing some of your precious BOMM.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip buzzerj! I'll try your suggestion and see how it goes. I have a few of the 1G jugs and would like to be able to dedicate them to meads.

~Joe
 
I've used gypsum before cause a buddy used it and it's in some other recipes. I managed to get to 10 % abv I think. It's quite sour but I also added citric acid before I tasted. Still learning. It's not the end of the world. Back sweetening can help too.
 
im about a month and a half into my first bomm. I have racked to secondary at 30 day mark then a week later added 2 vanilla beans and 5 oak cubes. Right now mine is pretty bland with a vanilla end and it is pretty "hot" if you understand that. Not sure if it is supposed to be blandish but thats what i got.

Also what size oak cubes do you use i only found 1/2 in at my store.
 
I'm about to start on my next couple of BOMMs, and I have a few questions regarding nutrient additions:

1. How would I adjust the nutrients for a 2.5 gallon batch with an OG of 1.088?

2. How would I adjust the nutrients for a 2.75 gallon batch with an OG of 1.057?

3. I want to experiment with steeping some crystal malts for these, and I was wondering if that would decrease the amount of nutrients needed due to whatever nutrients (if much at all) is supplied by the malt?
 
1. How would I adjust the nutrients for a 2.5 gallon batch with an OG of 1.088?

1.5 tsp Fermaid K + 0.75 tsp DAP upfront, 1.06, & at 1.03.

2. How would I adjust the nutrients for a 2.75 gallon batch with an OG of 1.057?

1.5 tsp Fermaid K + 0.75 tsp DAP upfront & at 1.03. This one will be really light on flavor and body. I hope that is what you want.

3. I want to experiment with steeping some crystal malts for these, and I was wondering if that would decrease the amount of nutrients needed due to whatever nutrients (if much at all) is supplied by the malt?

No decrease. Same amount of nutrients. Steeped malt doesn't really give a lot of nutrients. Let me know what you use and how it turns out for you. I've had good luck with crystal malts.



Better brewing through science!
 
nickwoo said:
im about a month and a half into my first bomm. I have racked to secondary at 30 day mark then a week later added 2 vanilla beans and 5 oak cubes. Right now mine is pretty bland with a vanilla end and it is pretty "hot" if you understand that. Not sure if it is supposed to be blandish but thats what i got.



Also what size oak cubes do you use i only found 1/2 in at my store.
Click to expand...


That is the only size the cubes come in. Prepare to be amazed at how oak changes the mead. Wonderful match.


Better brewing through science!
 
alright I will wait and see what happens to the flavor. In the mean time im going to start a batch of sweet mead.
 
2. How would I adjust the nutrients for a 2.75 gallon batch with an OG of 1.057?

1.5 tsp Fermaid K + 0.75 tsp DAP upfront & at 1.03. This one will be really light on flavor and body. I hope that is what you want.

3. I want to experiment with steeping some crystal malts for these, and I was wondering if that would decrease the amount of nutrients needed due to whatever nutrients (if much at all) is supplied by the malt?
Click to expand...


As for #2, I was planning on steeping 12 ounces of a lighter crystal malt to provide some flavor/body. Also, I'm going to do a hop stand with one ounce of whole leaf Cascade and then dry hop it with the same amount. Hopefully that will make up for the lack of flavor.

I'll keep you posted on the outcomes with the crystal malt. I plan on using some special B and caramunich on the 1.088 one, and I'm going to add oak and vanilla as well.
 
Just started a batch of this on Sunday. Already off to a good start. Just wasn't expecting the sheer volume of CO2 that I got on my first de-gassing at 12 hours after pitching. It blew all the water out of my airlock and into my face. Then the lid popped open when the airlock couldn't keep up. I've never experienced it happening that violently. Luckily no mead was lost. Otherwise seems to be doing great.
 
ChrisVZ said:
Just started a batch of this on Sunday. Already off to a good start. Just wasn't expecting the sheer volume of CO2 that I got on my first de-gassing at 12 hours after pitching. It blew all the water out of my airlock and into my face. Then the lid popped open when the airlock couldn't keep up. I've never experienced it happening that violently. Luckily no mead was lost. Otherwise seems to be doing great.
Click to expand...

Happened to me last night too! ;)
 
Hi! I tried this recipe and I am maybe mixed up. I have reached a point at 24 days where I decanted into the "aging jug"- I didn't want it to go in brown bottles where I couldn't see it at all aging. I decided to taste it as it was much lighter but not completely clear at all. It was kind of watery and dry for sure, but it is also a bit fizzy? Is that weird? I put a vanilla bean in there, but I am not sure if I should dump it and start over or try something? I put some more honey in there, and shook it and got a lot of air out of the jug. I've put the airlock back in and put it back in the closet until I figure out what to do about it. I'm a little bummed I wanted it to be ready for Christmas. :(
 
VikingVixen said:
Hi! I tried this recipe and I am maybe mixed up. I have reached a point at 24 days where I decanted into the "aging jug"- I didn't want it to go in brown bottles where I couldn't see it at all aging. I decided to taste it as it was much lighter but not completely clear at all. It was kind of watery and dry for sure, but it is also a bit fizzy? Is that weird? I put a vanilla bean in there, but I am not sure if I should dump it and start over or try something? I put some more honey in there, and shook it and got a lot of air out of the jug. I've put the airlock back in and put it back in the closet until I figure out what to do about it. I'm a little bummed I wanted it to be ready for Christmas. :(
Click to expand...

The fizz is normal, and not anything to worry about. It really just means fermentation is continuing. It will still with time (not under pressure) and with degassing (like shaking, stirring, or swirling the contents).

I would never dump anything unless it was undrinkable after substantial aging.

If you like the taste, there isn't anything that should stop you from serving it. However, and especially after making a honey addition, it will improve with at least some aging.

Since aging isn't an option by tomorrow, if it tastes good enough to enjoy, I would do the following:

1. Make sure the honey is completely dissolved. This might be hard to do if you just spooned it into the jug cold/room temp. Make sure you let the contents settle for an hour or two after agitating, or put it in a refrigerator to help speed up settling.

2. Rack into a clean vessel. Airspace won't be as much of an issue since it won't spend a lot of time there, so a larger container will be just fine (two, half-gallon containers might be better if you want to keep one to age/blend the flavors of the new honey).

3. Put it back into the refrigerator to clear/drop any remaining yeast and suspended solids and rack/bottle. With a recent honey addition, the mead may remain slightly cloudy/hazy for a while, but it will still be drinkable.

This is not ideal, and the mead may not be at its full potential, but if you like the taste and really want to server it for Christmas, who cares? I have done this for a very similar reason, and really no seemed to notice or care and enjoyed/complimented it all the same. And, if it isn't good enough after all this, you can still let it age and serve something else.
 
Here is a video of me making my first bomm, let me know of anything I can do better!
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6frlthA5CuE[/ame]
 
loveofrose said:
Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison - pretty sulfury and funky. After 2 months it was better and still better than wine yeast.
Click to expand...

I noticed that you had tried 3724 and was curious if you had kept tasting it beyond 2 months.

I know it won't qualify as a bomm or cyser bomm, but I just had another 5 gallon bucket of honey given to me. I happen to have some belle saison sitting in the fridge and was curious if you or anyone else have tried it.

Thinking of trying your bomm recipe with it. Not really looking for exceptional at 1 month but drinkable in a couple months would be fine.
 
HawleyFarms said:
I noticed that you had tried 3724 and was curious if you had kept tasting it beyond 2 months.

I know it won't qualify as a bomm or cyser bomm, but I just had another 5 gallon bucket of honey given to me. I happen to have some belle saison sitting in the fridge and was curious if you or anyone else have tried it.

Thinking of trying your bomm recipe with it. Not really looking for exceptional at 1 month but drinkable in a couple months would be fine.
Click to expand...


Wyeast 3724 never became drinkable even after a year, but I don't really like saison beers either. If you do, go ahead and try it.



Better brewing through science!
 
So today I made a 2.5-gallon BOMM with some steeped crystal malts. After steeping the malt, I boiled the half-gallon of wort for about 5 minutes to kill off any bugs. Right before turning off the heat, I tossed in the nutrients and potassium carbonate without hydrating them first. Wow, it foamed like crazy!! I should have known better. Worse than the foaming was the smell, and the fumes were really intense. I'm guessing that was the DAP.

Could I have scorched the nutrients, and if so, would that have reduced their effect in any way? Could that horrible smell show up in the finished mead? Nothing was burnt on the pot or anything, so maybe it wasn't as bad as it seemed.


**Never mind. I was just unnecessarily worrying over something.**
 

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