Bought my tank!

[the_bird]

I think you can just claim them to offset winnings, I don't think they are deductible off regular income. I'm not an accountant, though.

 

[gnef]

i guess it is too late, but i wouldn't crank down on the kegs like that. usually something is wrong, and by cranking down, you are just ignoring the problem. next time something happens, you are goign to once again have a hell of time trying to get those posts off. it sounds like it was the poppets. when they finally do go completely bad, you will need to replace them, and it will not be a fun time for your back.

i would recommend you to figure out what kind of kegs you have, then get extra poppets as well as gaskets for the kegs.

also, in the future, you want to be careful of galling the threads, you don't want to destroy your kegs.

 

[anthrobe]

i guess it is too late, but i wouldn't crank down on the kegs like that. usually something is wrong, and by cranking down, you are just ignoring the problem. next time something happens, you are goign to once again have a hell of time trying to get those posts off. it sounds like it was the poppets. when they finally do go completely bad, you will need to replace them, and it will not be a fun time for your back.

i would recommend you to figure out what kind of kegs you have, then get extra poppets as well as gaskets for the kegs.

also, in the future, you want to be careful of galling the threads, you don't want to destroy your kegs.

I agree. Something is wrong with that keg. I have 5 kegs and disassemble and clean each time I rack a beer in. All of my posts take very minimal effort to remove and install. Never had any issues with leaks.

 

[Cheesefood]

What's odd is that it's both posts, not just one. What are the thoughts on putting some graphite on the threads?

 

[homebrewer_99]

Guy sounds like an ******* indeed. I'll bet he makes a few bucks per week off lottery winners - I'd turn him in man.

Can you really claim losing tickets on your taxes? Interesting, even though I don't play the lottery.

Right, what the Bird said...if you win the losing tickets can offset some of your gains. For instance, if you win 10K and have 10k in losing tickets the tax/gains is 0! This is one of the reasons why I "collect" ticket throughout the year...I've even pulled them from the ash trays.

 

[gnef]

i would check the dip tube o-ring. maybe get double seal o-rings (h-rings are another name?) they allow you to seal without too much force

mcmaster number: 90025K368 for the dip tube ones. i believe they should help, given that the dip tube o-rings are at fault. if the poppet is at fault, i don't think this would help, at least not as much as getting new poppets... next time i order from mcmaster, these are the o-rings i will get along with the other bulk o-rings from mcmaster for post and lid.

 

[dougjones31]

If you overtighten the posts then you screw up the o-ring seals. So it is a definate that you need new o-rings now.

I take it the mead was leaking from the bottom of the post. If so, the seal just needs replacing. If it leaked from the very top of the post, then the poppit valve may be bad. I usually just mash the poppet with my fingernail if it is leaking and it usually reseats and stops leaking.

But your problems are from overtightening....

 

[Cheesefood]

If you overtighten the posts then you screw up the o-ring seals. So it is a definate that you need new o-rings now.

I take it the mead was leaking from the bottom of the post. If so, the seal just needs replacing. If it leaked from the very top of the post, then the poppit valve may be bad. I usually just mash the poppet with my fingernail if it is leaking and it usually reseats and stops leaking.

But your problems are from overtightening....

The problem is that I couldn't get the valves to tighten down to the bottom.

The good news is that it's my mead keg. I'll probably disconnect it from the CO2, put it in my basement and let it be for a while.

 

[dougjones31]

Did you replace the o-rings when you got the kegs? One mistake some people make is that they do not put the o-ring on the tube then drop the tube into the hole then screw on the post and tighten it.

They screw up and push the o-ring inside the post and try to screw the post on. The ring gets deformed and wedges itself between the threads and makes a mess and makes it almost impossible to tighten.

Unscrew the post and inspect everything and see if anything looks damaged. I bet you will see the source of your problems.

 

[Cheesefood]

Did you replace the o-rings when you got the kegs? One mistake some people make is that they do not put the o-ring on the tube then drop the tube into the hole then screw on the post and tighten it.

They screw up and push the o-ring inside the post and try to screw the post on. The ring gets deformed and wedges itself between the threads and makes a mess and makes it almost impossible to tighten.

Unscrew the post and inspect everything and see if anything looks damaged. I bet you will see the source of your problems.

Yes, I put on new O-rings. As I said, these nuts were hard to turn when I was trying to remove them and even worse when I tried to get them back on.

 

[dougjones31]

Maybe you got pinlock kegs that somebody tried to swap over to ball locks and the threads are not quite a match. Go to your local auto parts store and buy some "Lapping Compound" it is a fine grit paste that you put on the threads and tighten and loosen the post a little at a time and it will turn a little more each time. Eventually it will cut the threads to match and your posts will go on and off easily.

If this is what you have, you will notice damage to the threads somewhere. Disassemble and inspect.

 

[Cheesefood]

Maybe you got pinlock kegs that somebody tried to swap over to ball locks and the threads are not quite a match. Go to your local auto parts store and buy some "Lapping Compound" it is a fine grit paste that you put on the threads and tighten and loosen the post a little at a time and it will turn a little more each time. Eventually it will cut the threads to match and your posts will go on and off easily.

Could be. Good hint, I'm going to give that a shot. What grit should I get?

 

[gnef]

you should be able to tell if it used to be a pin lock.

generally they are shorter and wider. also, unless they swapped the lid, it usually won't have a manual pressure bleeder on the lid.

the lapping compound sounds a bit scary to me... are you sure you cleaned everything up, and threads look good? make sure there isn't any rust or anything else that could be causing the issues. once you start taking metal off, you won't be able to add any back on...

 

[Pedro-]

I would definitely turn that guy in. Did you get to see your exact winnings printoff?

You could have won 10/50/100+ and he just gave you the $3!

What a low....

 

[dougjones31]

Could be. Good hint, I'm going to give that a shot. What grit should I get?

I would get 400 grit.

Remove the poppits and the tubes and o-rings when you "lap" the posts on. Doublecheck before you lap the posts and make sure that the stripped post does not tighten easily....that would mean something else is the problem...probably bent Poppits.

Don't worry about what gnef said. Lapping compound will remove very minimal metal and with the design of the threaded post and the o-ring, you would have to lap it for days to screw it up. Even if the threads are loose, when you tighten the post the threads will contact only one side and that will be countered with pressure from the compressing o-ring. In short....you won't screw up anything.

 

[Cheesefood]

OK, I poured myself a hefe tonight after 5 days. It's still flat. What am I doing wrong? It pushed out with no problems, but it's flat. Flat flat.

 

[rdwj]

OK, I poured myself a hefe tonight after 5 days. It's still flat. What am I doing wrong? It pushed out with no problems, but it's flat. Flat flat.

That's odd - what pressure is it set at? Are you leaving the tank on all the time?

 

[Cheesefood]

That's odd - what pressure is it set at? Are you leaving the tank on all the time?

Tanks always on, at 15psi. Mead is bubbly. Don't know about the cyser yet, I'll try that next.

I'm trying a new trick I read about: I'm putting the CO2 on the BevOut side this time. That way, all the CO2 enters from the bottom so that it gives the liquid more CO2 exposure.

I wonder if its because I had the Cobra Tap left on it. The Hefe is the only one with the tap left on, and it's flat.

 

[rdwj]

Tanks always on, at 15psi. Mead is bubbly. Don't know about the cyser yet, I'll try that next.

I'm trying a new trick I read about: I'm putting the CO2 on the BevOut side this time. That way, all the CO2 enters from the bottom so that it gives the liquid more CO2 exposure.

I wonder if its because I had the Cobra Tap left on it. The Hefe is the only one with the tap left on, and it's flat.

Hmmm. could be. The cobra keeps the keg open and might not be holding pressure. Try taking it off.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

If the regulator reads 15, the tap isn't leaking. Can you hear CO2 entering the keg when you attach the fitting? Or, can you verify keg pressure by actuating the relief valve? You might have a defective keg post. Then again, you said the beer poured just fine...I'm as confused as you are.

You might try the "brute force" carbonation method by jacking the pressure up to 30 or so and shaking the $hit out of the keg a few times.

 

[Cheesefood]

If the regulator reads 15, the tap isn't leaking. Can you hear CO2 entering the keg when you attach the fitting? Or, can you verify keg pressure by actuating the relief valve? You might have a defective keg post. Then again, you said the beer poured just fine...I'm as confused as you are.

You might try the "brute force" carbonation method by jacking the pressure up to 30 or so and shaking the $hit out of the keg a few times.

The Cyser is still also.

OK, here are the facts: 20lb tank (full) hooked to a 4-way distributor. Distro has 3 hoses attached: 1 - Mead. 2- Hefe. 3- Cyser. All three kegs are pressurized and holding pressure (I pulled the relief valve to verify this). After 5+ days, the CO2 level in the tank hasn't dropped. It's set to 15 lbs. I hooked the GasOut to the BevOut valve and pulled the relief. I heard the gas bubbling through the liquids.

I've now turned the Co2 off from the mead to see if the other two will carbonate. I might crank to 30lbs before bed and let it sit for a day or two on the cyser and hefe. All three kegs are in my garage, which has maintained a temp of <40' since I put them in there.

Any other thoughts?

 

[dantodd]

Might try putting manifold outlet 1 on the hefe and see if that works.

 

[Cheesefood]

Might try putting manifold outlet 1 on the hefe and see if that works.

Output 4 is blank. I've opened it, and I'm getting good output through it. For some reason, I'm just not getting good CO2 contact with Cyser and Hefe. Too bad, because both will be AWESOME with more carbonation (note: cyser has some bubbling on the side, but not enough).

 

[dantodd]

hmmm... maybe I wasn't clear. I meant to put the output that is properly carbonating the mead onto the hefe. If the hefe becomes properly carbonated it might the manifold is not distributing equally to all kegs.

 

[Cheesefood]

hmmm... maybe I wasn't clear. I meant to put the output that is properly carbonating the mead onto the hefe. If the hefe becomes properly carbonated it might the manifold is not distributing equally to all kegs.

I'm about to get another mead, so I'll try that.

mmm...mead.

Maple cyser is teh r0x0rz 2.

 

[dantodd]

mmmm.... I'm never thought about MAPLE cyser... Sounds good.

 

[Cheesefood]

mmmm.... I'm never thought about MAPLE cyser... Sounds good.

~1/2 maple wine/~1/2 cyser.

Too sweet right now, but not bad. Both fermented with Redstar Champagne. Carbonation will treat it well.

 

[Hippie]

As for the mead keg leak, instead of cranking it again, I would have gone with some teflon tape around the threads... Unless somebody knows that this is a no-no.

Hope everything worked out for you on the carbonation

-Hippie