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Bottle conditioning 'big' beer?

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lgp

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Oct 9, 2015
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Haines City
Hi everyone, I had a post a few weeks ago about a scotch ale milk stout beer I brewed as my first go at home brewing, which didn't work out so well, and since then I've had one batch go off very well, and a second that's well on it's way.

My second batch was a spiced pumpkin ale which actually ended up more like a pumpkin spice rye ale (between leaving the mulling spices in too long after the boil and using a little malted rye in the specialty bill, the flavors actually ended up complementing each other nicely) which sits at 6.7% ABV.

My question is about my third batch, which I'm about to bottle any day now. It's a very big winter/Christmas ale with lots of caramel, some spec b, light chocolate and some brown sugar/honey/maple syrup. It started out at 1.100, and I used White Labs San Diego Super Yeast, which has a tolerance of 10%-15% ABV. I used a yeast starter and yeast nutrient in primary, and after just 9 days in primary the airlock has settled down (about 2 minutes between bubbles), and the SG is sitting at 1.023, which is right around where I was expecting, and the beer is at 10% ABV. I'm waiting a few more days to take another reading, but assuming it's finished:

With a beer like this and this yeast strain, would I be OK just priming with corn sugar and bottle conditioning, or should I also pitch more yeast before bottling? The strain I used, on paper, should be fine for the ABV, but I've read that big beers can tire out the yeast and you have to re-pitch? I'd rather not spend another $6 on a second vial of San Diego Super Yeast (or other high-ABV strain) if I don't have to...thanks guys!
 
You should be fine with bottle conditioning. I've even got A big pitch of Cooper's ale yeast (rehydrated) to tolerate about 9.2%. And the ale was well cleared when I primed & bottled it. So I think you should be fine. :mug: I've got US-05 working on my Hellfire IIPA, which should come about 8.6%. I'll see how that goes if it tests done to day in order to dry hop/dry pepper it before bottling.
 
Interested in the answers you get here....bottled one RIS recently using a hydrated half-packet of Nottingham (for the same reasons as the common advice you mention in your post)...but recently bottled a Yeti RIS clone that used WLP-001. Skipped the additional yeast at bottling. Won't know how either turned out for a good long while, so - curious what others say on this topic.
 
Well, in my experiences, big beers do take longer to carb & condition. That time varies widely, depending on the recipe, how much roasted malts are used, etc. A lot of dark roasted malt will be bitter till it mellows over weeks or months. Sometimes years. I switched from Black Patent to Black Prinz to avoid the need to mellow out all that bitterness.
 
Well, in my experiences, big beers do take longer to carb & condition. That time varies widely, depending on the recipe, how much roasted malts are used, etc. A lot of dark roasted malt will be bitter till it mellows over weeks or months. Sometimes years. I switched from Black Patent to Black Prinz to avoid the need to mellow out all that bitterness.

Yeah, I fully expect this to take a while to condition, I just want to make sure it'll actually carb OK without having to re-pitch. I'm planning on holding back at least a dozen bottles for next year. I didn't use too many dark malts in this. The darkest caramel was 60lv, the chocolate was a light-roast (for a chocolate anyway), and there's a LOT of light and amber base. SRM is about 25.
 
You should be good then. I like to bottle them when done fermenting & settled out clear or slightly misty. Then carb/condition/age them Then a week or two fridge time before drinking. My Hellfire IIPA started out @ 1.082 on brewday, 9/24/15. OG 1.082, first FG on 10/10/15 of 1.022. Today, second FG was 1.016. That gives 9.35% by Cooper's formula of (OG-FG)/7.46 + .5= ABV%. It tastes way better with no funk at all, & fermented with 2 packets of US-05 rehydrated. So it can take awhile to ferment. Bottled up, it shouldn't be more than a month till ready for fridge time. But that depends on how the lil yeasties feel about it at that point, of course.:mug:
 
Thanks! I'm really looking forward to this one. I sampled the bit I pulled out for the SG measurement the other day, and it has LOADS of promise. Probably won't have a chance to bottle it until next Monday or Tuesday anyway, so I'll have another week to make absolutely sure it's done and to clear a bit.
 
That's the hard part, waiting for to settle out clear or slightly misty before dry hopping &/or packaging. I'm at that point with the Hellfire IIPA as of today. It's sorta like standing in front of the microwave yelling, " HURRY UUUUUP"! ;)
 
You should be good then. I like to bottle them when done fermenting & settled out clear or slightly misty. Then carb/condition/age them Then a week or two fridge time before drinking. My Hellfire IIPA started out @ 1.082 on brewday, 9/24/15. OG 1.082, first FG on 10/10/15 of 1.022. Today, second FG was 1.016. That gives 9.35% by Cooper's formula of (OG-FG)/7.46 + .5= ABV%. It tastes way better with no funk at all, & fermented with 2 packets of US-05 rehydrated. So it can take awhile to ferment. Bottled up, it shouldn't be more than a month till ready for fridge time. But that depends on how the lil yeasties feel about it at that point, of course.:mug:


Why is Coopers formula so far off from the 'standard' formula and knowing that, why would you use it?

I got 8.6%
 
There's some 8 different formulas out there I've seen or stumbled onto at one time or another. The Cooper's formula stuck in my head & is at the high end of what BS2 usually gives. It was at 8.6%, FG 1.022 on 10/10 (Hellfire IIPA), then today, knocked off 6 points to 9.35% with the same formula. Each formula I've seen gives a different number, it seems.
 
Hi OP, I'll be the contrarian voice here. I always pitch a partial packet of yeast (usually US-05) when naturally carbonating any big beer. The worst thing that happens is that it was unnecessary and I wasted a half packet of yeast. Compared to the other possibility, that a big beer that cost a lot of money and time doesn't carb up, this seems prudent for me.
 
To me, I get it primed & into the bottles as soon as it clears to ensure there's enough yeast to do the job. but either way is fine.:mug:
 
Hi OP, I'll be the contrarian voice here. I always pitch a partial packet of yeast (usually US-05) when naturally carbonating any big beer. The worst thing that happens is that it was unnecessary and I wasted a half packet of yeast. Compared to the other possibility, that a big beer that cost a lot of money and time doesn't carb up, this seems prudent for me.

Is the US-05 neutral? No risk of unintended flavors by pitching a different strain of yeast to condition for months?
 
Is the US-05 neutral? No risk of unintended flavors by pitching a different strain of yeast to condition for months?

US-05 is indeed neutral. Also, the amount is so modest it doesn't really impact flavor, at least in my experience.
 
Just wanted to follow up on this. I did use a half packet of US05, and after 4 weeks in the bottle it has a good head to a gentle pour and the flavors are mellowing out nicely. I pitched way too hot at 85F (didn't prepare enough chilled water, and don't have a wort cooler), and I think I can taste some banana esters in it, but overall I'm loving the tastes in it. Plus the flavors mask the 10.3% ABV almost entirely. I can't pop one open unless I can relax for a few hours, which is great. Overall very pleased, can't wait to try again and pitch at <70F. Thanks for the help and suggestions!
 

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