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I’m guessing I should be doing my boil with the lid off based on the estimate of the amount of boil off. Is this correct? Is this the only reason?
Thanks
Thanks
Your boil off is based on your boil process. Whichever you use, lid on, lid off, partially on, heat source, boil intensity, ambient conditions, etc.
Adjust your starting/sparging volumes accordingly.
And as @stevehaun said, to drive off DMS (and SMM).
Here's an interesting read on that:
http://scottjanish.com/how-to-prevent-dms-in-beer/
It should also be noted that modern malts, including Pilsner, contain very low to no SMM.
Boiling with the lid on allows good circulation to be achieved with less heat applied (less thermal stress on the wort.)
That's one reason you need to maintain circulation of the wort. It doesn't need to be extremely vigorous, gentle circulation will still effect good protein coagulation. Physical action of hops in that circulating wort helps also. Excessive boiling goes too far, degrading proteins leading to inferior body and foam qualities.Still need a good hot break for proteins though?
That's one reason you need to maintain circulation of the wort. It doesn't need to be extremely vigorous, gentle circulation will still effect good protein coagulation. Physical action of hops in that circulating wort helps also. Excessive boiling goes too far, degrading proteins leading to inferior body and foam qualities.
My method too, I guess just because that was what I read to do when I started brewing a few years ago.I boil with lid off. I also boil at a moderate level. I always keep a nice bubble going from a boil. If it’s a huge pocket that’s splashing up on the sides of the kettle then I turn down the heat.
Most accepted homebrew practice is based on parroted misinformation and "all the kids are doing it."
Never had a single boil over or excessive foaming. Just have to leave the lid cracked a tiny bit, and remember you need to turn the heat down a fair bit.One thing is for sure: Boiling with the lid on creates more a of mess and requires more cleaning of the kettle.
Not me. But the amount of scum we have to deal with may be a product of mashing procedures. I do step mashes and employ low oxygen methods, which makes a difference. Still, the payoffs of a lower intensity boil in wort quality and efficiency are probably worth a little extra cleaning. IMO.Me neither, but you're still going to get trub coated on the lid and high up on the walls of the kettle. Just something I've observed.
Something I may check into trying partially covered, but I wouldn't want to do it until after hot break. Risk of boil over isn't worth it to me.Never had a single boil over or excessive foaming. Just have to leave the lid cracked a tiny bit, and remember you need to turn the heat down a fair bit.
I could be wrong but I thought the half life for conversion of SMM to DMS was ~30 min at 100C and pH 5.40
If I am correct, half is converted at 30 min and 75% is converted at 1 hour. 75% conversion to DMS should be sufficient providing DMS has a route of escape (evaporation).
I could be wrong but I thought the half life for conversion of SMM to DMS was ~30 min at 100C and pH 5.40
If I am correct, half is converted at 30 min and 75% is converted at 1 hour. 75% conversion to DMS should be sufficient providing DMS has a route of escape (evaporation).
Yes, but as little as 2-3% total evaporation has been shown to be sufficient to expel it, provided sufficient circulation to expose all the wort at the surface at some point. So a minimally opened lid, or just a short time with the lid open, will do. Practically, taking into account other considerations, 4-6% evaporation over a 60 minute boil is a good target (and index of acceptable thermal loading.) Approaching 10%, detrimental effects outweigh benefits. And there is no reason to be venting the kettle and losing heat (requiring additional heat to be applied) until a significant amount of DMS is present to expel.
Thanks for ensuring clarification.I think we are in agreement about the evaporation of DMS. I just thought your statement regarding conversion of SMM to DMS was not accurate.
Another point to keep in mind in all this talk of DMS, is that it can later re-form in wort not quickly chilled to below 85°C/185°F, so brewers employing a whirlpool stand should rapidly chill to below this temperature before the extended stand, or they will just be chasing their tails in trying to eliminate DMS in the boil.