Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[couchsending]

I haven’t read through all of this thread but is anyone here using one of these at high elevations where boil temps are considerably lower and it takes twice as long to convert the DMS precursor?

 

[rmajor55]

Not sure if this is helpful to any non US members that have trouble ordering from McMaster-Carr for the nozzles. Someone earlier in the thread found this shop on Ali-Express and I happened to find a performance data chart in metric. I simply converted everything to imperial so the units are more easily recognized. Hope it uploads correctly, I think I've also attached a PDF version. lol

View media item 70389

 

[matt_m]

The 1.5" model is finally back in stock. I ordered a few minutes after getting the notification. Still trying to decide if its going in my kettle lid or through the side wall.

If boil-off is significantly reduced, doesn't that require significant recipe adjustments to get a proper FG?

 

[CodeSection]

The 1.5" model is finally back in stock. I ordered a few minutes after getting the notification. Still trying to decide if its going in my kettle lid or through the side wall.

If boil-off is significantly reduced, doesn't that require significant recipe adjustments to get a proper FG?

If you are using a program like BS or BF, why wouldn't you adjust your equipment profile instead? Much, much easier to reduce boil off rate in your BK profile. You may end up changing the grain bill slightly. You will be changing the amount of water you start off with...... Just dial back in your profile once you have your system installed and have brewed a few proven recipes to see what other slight adjustments need to be made...

 

[Bobby_M]

The 1.5" model is finally back in stock. I ordered a few minutes after getting the notification. Still trying to decide if its going in my kettle lid or through the side wall.

If boil-off is significantly reduced, doesn't that require significant recipe adjustments to get a proper FG?

I simply copy and pasted my previous equipment profile, renamed the copy "with slayer" and reduced the boil off to half. It was pretty much dialed in on the first run.

 

[Bohern]

I got my condenser today from Brew Hardware. Many thanks to BrunDog and Bobby for the putting this together.

 

[matt_m]

I simply copy and pasted my previous equipment profile, renamed the copy "with slayer" and reduced the boil off to half. It was pretty much dialed in on the first run.

That makes sense, but maybe I don't fully understand the relationship between OG and FG. Isn't the FG related to the OG and the amount of boil off? Or is there more to it than that? In my mind if boil off is half, OG needs to be significantly higher to get the FG desired but maybe that's wrong?

 

[cbier60]

That makes sense, but maybe I don't fully understand the relationship between OG and FG. Isn't the FG related to the OG and the amount of boil off? Or is there more to it than that? In my mind if boil off is half, OG needs to be significantly higher to get the FG desired but maybe that's wrong?

In simple terms, it takes the same amount of fermentables to reach the same FG (which I'd call OG, as it's the gravity into the fermenter, whereas I refer to final gravity after fermentation as FG). Since there's less boil-off, you simply start with less water, which means the pre-boil gravity (which I think you're referring to as OG) is higher. The bottom line is that you just have less water. In the end, as Bobby says, you just adjust your boil-off in your software, and it will take care of it. There should be minimal impact to the grain bill.

 

[matt_m]

Mixed up my terms. Pre-boil gravity and OG, not OG and FG. Makes sense. Less water to start, less water at the end, didn't think about that part!

Looking forward to getting up and running. Lots of basement finishing work in the way too but this saves buying the expensive hood i was looking at. Probably still going to install a range hood for general odor ventilation.

 

[cbier60]

Mixed up my terms. Pre-boil gravity and OG, not OG and FG. Makes sense.

Even though you mixed up your terms, your point was pretty clear, which is why I tried to comment on the terminology.

Less water to start, less water at the end, didn't think about that part!

However, this comment is incorrect. It's Less water to start, less water boiled off, for the same water (and gravity) at the end.

 

[bmwguy]

Why would there be a difference in the water volume? You are just catching the condensate a different way. Instead of the condensate going out the exhaust fan, it's drawn down the tube by the vacuum created when the steam is condensed by the water jet.

 

[crane]

Why would there be a difference in the water volume? You are just catching the condensate a different way. Instead of the condensate going out the exhaust fan, it's drawn down the tube by the vacuum created when the steam is condensed by the water jet.

When you have the lid on and the condenser going, you have to turn the heat source down significantly to achieve the same boil intensity. For example I used to run my heating element at 65% duty cycle without the condenser. Now I am using 25% duty cycle and I am still getting a gentle rolling boil like I was before, but less volume boiled off over the course of an hour. For me I am using about a half gallon less preboil volume than before to achieve the same post boil volume.

 

[Jhamp]

I would like to do this for a 1BBL system. I have a 40 gallon boil kettle and I will be using a domed lid the system is like SS Brewtech but I fabricated the system. Would a single sprayer work or would I need more than one. What about the condenser size 1.5”, 2” 2.5”. Let me know I would like to add this feature so I wouldn’t need ventilation.

 

[mongoose33]

I would like to do this for a 1BBL system. I have a 40 gallon boil kettle and I will be using a domed lid the system is like SS Brewtech but I fabricated the system. Would a single sprayer work or would I need more than one. What about the condenser size 1.5”, 2” 2.5”. Let me know I would like to add this feature so I wouldn’t need ventilation.

I don't have a 1-barrel system so the below is me just trying to parse the problem. Remember that free advice is sometimes worth what you paid for it.

I've done the 1.5" steam slayer BobbyM sells on a 10-gallon system and it worked fine for me. I'd think you'd want to go at least to 2" diameter on a 1-barrel system. The area of the opening for the 1.5" is 1.767"; for the 2" it's 3.14", or nearly double the capacity.

How much of a sprayer? I'd still think a single one would do, but you might want to go up to 12 gph or even 15 gph. I'm using the 9 gph sprayer. Some of this also has to do with how vigorous a boil you intend to have. If it's just a simmer, not a lot of load; if it's vigorous, then much more demand for cooling.

 

[WesBrew]

if applied to a 5-10 gallon system (15 gallon pot) is there any performance difference using the 2" version over the 1.5" version. more boil off? or is that more to do with the spray nozzle? the opening will have to be drilled by me so I can use whichever.

 

[Bohern]

if applied to a 5-10 gallon system (15 gallon pot) is there any performance difference using the 2" version over the 1.5" version. more boil off? or is that more to do with the spray nozzle? the opening will have to be drilled by me so I can use whichever.

I asked this same question and here is what I will share with you. After talking to a few here the 2" version with the 1.5" adapter (free if you buy the 2" from Bobby) gives you the best of both worlds. The 2" should work better on a 15G to 20G pot. After speaking with Bobby from BrewHardware that was the direction I went. so far so good.

 

[WesBrew]

ok, so drill the pot for 1.5" weldless bulkhead, use the 2" version with an adapter/reducer to connect the larger steam slayer? I didn't see the 2" version at brew hardware. I'll have to look again.

 

[Bohern]

ok, so drill the pot for 1.5" weldless bulkhead, use the 2" version with an adapter/reducer to connect the larger steam slayer? I didn't see the 2" version at brew hardware. I'll have to look again.

Call and talk to Bobby, he was a big help to me. Also he is on this forum as well. He can walk you though it for sure.

 

[Bobby_M]

It's out of stock. Long story short, the 2" sold way faster while the 1.5 was out so my predictive reordering was all screwed up. I'm working on another potential design that uses 1.5" TC as the conduit from the kettle but where it hits a 3" spray chamber to maximize cooling efficiency.

 

[WesBrew]

It's out of stock. Long story short, the 2" sold way faster while the 1.5 was out so my predictive reordering was all screwed up. I'm working on another potential design that uses 1.5" TC as the conduit from the kettle but where it hits a 3" spray chamber to maximize cooling efficiency.

Is there something to using 1.5tc with a bigger spray chamber or is it that most people already have a 1.5tc ?

 

[BrunDog]

The bigger the chamber (to a point), the better mixing of spray water with steam, causing the steam's phase change. Said it multiple times above: spraying water up against the walls of the chamber is basically wasted water.

 

[WesBrew]

The bigger the chamber (to a point), the better mixing of spray water with steam, causing the steam's phase change. Said it multiple times above: spraying water up against the walls of the chamber is basically wasted water.

I understood that. my question was about the diameter of the hole in the pot and why it was better to have it smaller than the spray chamber. (from post 1366)

 

[cbier60]

I can also say that I've been using a 1.5" condenser for almost 2 years with my 20G Spike kettle and the 6 gph nozzle (with relatively high municipal water pressure), and it has worked excellently. 2" may be better, but 1.5" is definitely more than adequate.

 

[Bobby_M]

I understood that. my question was about the diameter of the hole in the pot and why it was better to have it smaller than the spray chamber. (from post 1366)

It's just that the 1.5" TC port is plenty of cross section to pull the steam through but the larger chamber allows the spray cone to fan out more before it cascades down the sides. More cooling with the same amount of water use. Larger kettle ports would just serve to reduce the usable vertical kettle height for no benefit.

 

[WesBrew]

It's just that the 1.5" TC port is plenty of cross section to pull the steam through but the larger chamber allows the spray cone to fan out more before it cascades down the sides. More cooling with the same amount of water use. Larger kettle ports would just serve to reduce the usable vertical kettle height for no benefit.

THANKS! I'll plan for a 1.5 opening.

 

[Bohern]

Exactly what I did as well!

 

[Brewbuzzard]

It's just that the 1.5" TC port is plenty of cross section to pull the steam through but the larger chamber allows the spray cone to fan out more before it cascades down the sides. More cooling with the same amount of water use. Larger kettle ports would just serve to reduce the usable vertical kettle height for no benefit.

Bobby, is there any way those that have already purchased the 1.5 " system can upgrade at a lower cost by returning the replaced parts?

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby, is there any way those that have already purchased the 1.5 " system can upgrade at a lower cost by returning the replaced parts?

That's something I can consider when I have the parts. There really won't be a lot of crossover since it will be a new body and new cap (clamp and gasket). The sprayer and incoming plumbing parts are a relatively low cost. I'll post some real world performance comparisons so you can make an informed choice about any upgrade necessity. To be completely clear, the full 1.5 TC unit works a treat for me and so many others up to half barrel.

 

[Brewbuzzard]

That's something I can consider when I have the parts. There really won't be a lot of crossover since it will be a new body and new cap (clamp and gasket). The sprayer and incoming plumbing parts are a relatively low cost. I'll post some real world performance comparisons so you can make an informed choice about any upgrade necessity. To be completely clear, the full 1.5 TC unit works a treat for me and so many others up to half barrel.

What is your evaporation rate? I have 27 gal kettles with a hight to width ratio of close to 1:1. After adding the steam Slayer my system went from about 14% to 5% evaporation rate.

 

[Imhoppy]

Interesting thread here that got me thinking. Was wondering if anyone has considered making/modifying some kind of an "extender ring" that could be installed between the lid and the brew kettle, assuming one did not want to drill a hole in their kettle. Maybe a "tight fit" in the kettle so it is solidly secured. The hole can then be made in the extender. A counterweight on the other side might be needed too, depending on the design, but might be too bulky and not adhering to the "KISS" way of thinking (aka, keep it simple stupid). The link gives an idea of what this extender may look like, although in concept only. Thoughts?
https://images.app.goo.gl/8ZBWEJvrbL7fJ6hC7