I just upgraded my rig so perhaps my experience will assist: Addressing your kettle choice; If you are going EBIAB then I don't see a reason to spend the extra money for the tri-clad bottom (1316). And, while the 1064 has a spigot and the calibrated marks, I would actually recommend the standard 1060. It has no lip to be concerned with, is over 40 bucks cheaper and I simply couldn't think of a better 62 qt EBIAB kettle; It is light but sturdy, easy to punch holes in with both a step drill as well as a cheap Harbor Freight punch for the myriad of spigots, recirculating arms, nozzles and probes you will inevitably be installing. And even tho u didn't ask, I will also tell you that I bought Brew Hardware's 1.5" (yes the 1.5" fits snugly, but fits) solder TC kit/hot pod enclosure and a 5500w ripple and really like it. It was easy to solder and looks better than a weld IMHO. BH's service was great too. I had a 4400w (weldless element) kettle for 3 years and loved it, but the ability to now remove the element for cleaning is waaaay to convenient. One last bit of advice, whatever TC / Kettle configuration you go with, before you drill, make sure your TC fits on your kettle WITH enough clearance to accommodate the clamp and enclosure so it doesn't hit the surface that your kettle rests on. I actually saw a post where someone mounted their TC too close to the bottom of the kettle and the clamp was hitting the table that he brewed on.
