BlowTie spunding valve help needed, please

[Elric]

I just got mine on Monday. Did a couple tests and there was a small leak. Did a submerge test (kept the gauge above water, twisted and turned to make sure all other points were tested), found a couple very tiny leaks that reseating the evabarrier fixed and it has been holding 7.5psi on a 200ml empty bottle for more than 12 hours now, so I'd say I have it fixed. Looking forward to trying it with my next brew!

 

[TenaCJed]

Received word from Williams Brewing, they stated it should be fine to submerge the gauge and also stated that if it does not work after submerging that they would replace it. They also stated that if the gauge does leak to pull it out and put some keg lube on the o-ring for the gauge.

So knowing that I moved on to testing. Had a leak with the duotight fitting on the MFL gas ball lock connector, I had to tighten that with a wrench tighter then any other duotight fitting I have had done previous. I have had several of these fittings crack on me over time that were no where close to as tightened down as this one required, so I have no idea how long that fitting is going to last!
After the fitting was no longer leaking I was able to determine that there was a leak at the gauge as well. Popped the gauge off and added keg lube. Once everything was back together I ran the test again and no leaks!

I have had the valve on a verified good keg for 24 hours and no change in PSI.


Now for the other bad thing, the gauge accuracy on my unit seems to be poor. It is the standard blowtie gauge, something like 23 PSI max.

I had my regulator set to 18 psi (taprite) and the blowtie read about 15 PSI after tapping it a couple of times. I have noticed that since I used the new blowtie to modify my PSI to each of my kegs that it has been a much foamier pour, and now I know why! The original blowtie with separate gauge (all duotight) reads almost perfectly, and that gauge went up to 40 PSI.

I will put in another request from Williams for replacement, see if they can just send the gauge and not an entire assembly.


I still also have to test the new inline regulators, but it seems I have a small slow leak somewhere in one (or more) of those as well. I so wanted to love these, but so far my experience with duotight has not been great.

 

[ILMSTMF]

Thanks for the update!

I so wanted to love these, but so far my experience with duotight has not been great.

I can't say I had high expectations for the technology (for lack of a better term). I'll probably repeat the same tests that you've performed now that we are assured it's safe to submerge the gauge. When I get time, I'll do that and report back.

 

[TenaCJed]

Thanks for the update!



I can't say I had high expectations for the technology (for lack of a better term). I'll probably repeat the same tests that you've performed now that we are assured it's safe to submerge the gauge. When I get time, I'll do that and report back.

I had the original iteration as well and have had 4 of the inline regulators break at the raised area that you screw adjust the pressure. I had two break, then both replacements broke. That lead me to believe that they do not like to be left almost wide open as the one's that broke were for my sours running a higher PSI that was close to the PSI of the regulator. The two that run at normal ale (12PSI) had no issues. Not knowing how the new inline regulators with gauge will operate, I have the regulator set higher so that I can close the valve down some and hopefully will not have that entire pressure change area pop off!

I also have had several of the MFL connecting duotight fittings crack after a couple of months as well. These did not have large amounts of pressure, no big curves right after the fitting, just normal line pressure.

 

[ILMSTMF]

That all sounds awful, yuck. Difficult to call yours an isolated incident with all of those failures.

Glad to say that I have very few DuoTight parts in the mix. Perhaps I should consider different solution if the failure rate is as high as you've experienced. :-/

 

[TenaCJed]

Well, I am hoping the inline regulators have been fixed, it is a slightly different style compared to the original. I am also hopeful that the fittings are better. I have not given up yet!

 

[jwa120]

Which in-line regulators are you referring to, the one like the blow tie with the integrated gauge? If so I'm sure you have a good idea where the leak may be.

I have the older styled one, which I pretty happy with.

 

[TenaCJed]

i have updated to the new one's with gauge. I have 4 of them, so I will have to take each one apart to test for a leak at the gauge. I had a total of 4 of the older style that broke at the part that you change the pressure. The entire part that comes up broke off!

 

[jwa120]

I'm surprised they broke where they did. I found them finicky at low psi, and I dislike that they used 1/4 tubing which made them problematic to integrate with with 5/16 Eva tubing. The old ones, I believe we're originally for RO water systems which is why they used 1/4 inch tubing.

I hope everything gets sorted.

 

[Cottonmouth]

I've got one of these plastic duotight blowtie spunding valves that I haven't started messing with yet. It does look pretty cheap. You don't get much for $30. I ordered a spundit, should be here Friday and maybe I can give them both a shakedown this weekend. Definitely on the right track with a diaphragm PRV though.

 

[SanPancho]

As was told to me by product manager at a duotight vendor you need to pull the tubing out after getting it shoved in all the way. That’s how you get the dual seal. FYI

 

[day_trippr]

Hmm...In practice, I do always pull back on the tubing once fully inserted.
But that's to set the teeth, not to somehow optimize the internal O-ring contact...

Cheers!

 

[SanPancho]

yeah, that’s what he was saying, something about how they make the tightest connection when it’s pulled back out. Don’t recall the specifics but that’s the gist. Tug it out a bit to set it tight. He also recommended the little locking clips to for stuff that moves a lot or hoses that get jostled often like when changing kegs in a tight cooler, etc.

 

[ILMSTMF]

The saga continues...

1) I put it on a keg with a known pressure of 12psi. The gauge on BlowTie measures 8psi.
2) I performed a submersion leak test. First, the gas QD. I was troubled that the bottom / poppet end was blowing a big bubble every 10 seconds. The only thing I could think of was to tighten up the seal with a flathead, on top. That did not fix that leak...
3) A small leak at the DuoTight connection point closest to the spunding valve. No idea what to do about that.
4) Small leaks near the screws of the gauge and the twist dial.

All I can think to do is disconnect the gauge and apply keg lube as @TenaCJed suggests. What else might be worth doing? I don't want to bust chops with the merchant - I'd like to make sure I can fix the issue before assuming the stuff is busted. Thanks!

 

[TenaCJed]

The saga continues...

1) I put it on a keg with a known pressure of 12psi. The gauge on BlowTie measures 8psi.
2) I performed a submersion leak test. First, the gas QD. I was troubled that the bottom / poppet end was blowing a big bubble every 10 seconds. The only thing I could think of was to tighten up the seal with a flathead, on top. That did not fix that leak...
3) A small leak at the DuoTight connection point closest to the spunding valve. No idea what to do about that.
4) Small leaks near the screws of the gauge and the twist dial.

All I can think to do is disconnect the gauge and apply keg lube as @TenaCJed suggests. What else might be worth doing? I don't want to bust chops with the merchant - I'd like to make sure I can fix the issue before assuming the stuff is busted. Thanks!

For item 2: Try keg lube on the o-ring that the gas QD is going on?
For item 3: Pull the tube out of the fitting, make sure the cut is pretty straight and not gnarled up, re cut if needed and then re-seat it making sure to push hard on it so that it goes all the way in. If you got the full kit with little tubes included, you will need new tubing as those are already really short tubes.
For item 4: Going to have to remove the gauge and put keg lube on the gauge o-ring.

For item 1: If after that all the leaks are fixed, then check the pressure again on the gauge, give it a could of taps for it to level out to determine the pressure. If it is still low you might want to reach out to whoever you purchased it from. Williams is sending me a replacement gauge for mine. They were very quick with response and shipping the replacement!

 

[ILMSTMF]

For item 2: Try keg lube on the o-ring that the gas QD is going on?

The MFL of the QD? Sure! I can try that.

For item 3: Pull the tube out of the fitting, make sure the cut is pretty straight and not gnarled up, re cut if needed and then re-seat it making sure to push hard on it so that it goes all the way in. If you got the full kit with little tubes included, you will need new tubing as those are already really short tubes.

THAT SETTLES IT! Exactly the problem I'm having. I can't pull the tubing back after shoving it in because there's not enough "meat". Well, I can do that routine for one side of it but that leaves very little tubing for the fitting on the other side. Good news - I have 5' of tubing ready to go. And a handy straight cutter tool.

For item 4: Going to have to remove the gauge and put keg lube on the gauge o-ring.

You mentioned "popped off" but, I need to remove the two screws, don't I?

For item 1: If after that all the leaks are fixed, then check the pressure again on the gauge, give it a could of taps for it to level out to determine the pressure. If it is still low you might want to reach out to whoever you purchased it from. Williams is sending me a replacement gauge for mine. They were very quick with response and shipping the replacement!

Permission to laugh granted. When you say "taps", you want me to keep BlowTie connected to keg gas post and pour a pint? Then check gauge? Or you mean attach BlowTie to keg with known pressure then literally tap on the gauge with my finger? lol

Yes, Williams has been a pleasure to deal with! I'm hoping I can get this all worked out on my own but glad to know I've got a solid merchant in case I can't.

I'll update when I give it another test, thanks!

 

[TenaCJed]

For item 2 I assumed it was whatever you had the QD on that was leaking since you mentioned trying to tighten the screw on the top of the QD. If it is at the MFL is it duotight fitting or metal fitting? If it is metal, make sure you have the little plastic or whatever washer on. If it is duotight, slowly tighten the duotight fitting very little at a time until the leak stops. Mine leaked on the duotight fitting on the MFL and I had to tighten it a lot with a wrench, but only did a little at a time and tested until it no longer leaked.

For item 3 you will need something small to put pressure on the clamping mechanism to remove the tube. I use this:
KOMOS® Draft Multi Tool with Duotight Remover (7 in 1) | MoreBeer - one of the notches was designed for duotight fittings and tube removal!

For item 4 you will need to first remove the 2 screws and take the cover off. You will see the round gauge and under that a square piece of metal, I think it was gold colored. That is the piece that I worked on removing as I did not want to damage the gauge. I used small screwdrivers, computer style flathead and slowly worked on prying up each side. It took a while as I did not want to damage anything. I could not find anything from kegland on how you are supposed to remove the gauge other than the video that says you can easily remove it. Once you have it off on the back side there is a post that goes into the hole that has an o-ring on it, that is what you will put the keg lube on. Slide it back on and apply some pressure on both sides of the plate to ensure it seats good and put everything else back on.

For tapping I meant tapping on the gauge itself. Old school trick to test if the gauge has settled. So you put the blowtie on the keg you are testing, then tap on the gauge cover a couple of times until the gauge no longer changes.

 

[ILMSTMF]

For item 2 I assumed it was whatever you had the QD on that was leaking since you mentioned trying to tighten the screw on the top of the QD. If it is at the MFL is it duotight fitting or metal fitting? If it is metal, make sure you have the little plastic or whatever washer on. If it is duotight, slowly tighten the duotight fitting very little at a time until the leak stops. Mine leaked on the duotight fitting on the MFL and I had to tighten it a lot with a wrench, but only did a little at a time and tested until it no longer leaked.

Clarification. The open side of the QD is what's leaking. The side which connects to the post of the keg, for example. So, I'm assuming the poppet inside of it isn't making a tight seal. I can take it apart and apply a little lube to the flat washer inside... Not sure how much it'll help. The MFL side of it that connects to the FFL -> DuoTight seemed to be sealing well! I had already wrenched it on pretty damn tight (well before this leak test).
It's the KegLand brand QD that came with the BlowTie kit. The very reason I trust my CMB QDs is because I don't experience issues like this with them. Back to the drawing board...

For item 3 you will need something small to put pressure on the clamping mechanism to remove the tube. I use this:
KOMOS® Draft Multi Tool with Duotight Remover (7 in 1) | MoreBeer - one of the notches was designed for duotight fittings and tube removal!

I've seen this tool, pretty handy! I am able to easily get the tubing out. All it takes is some precise fingernail work. Wash hands first duh lol

For item 4 you will need to first remove the 2 screws and take the cover off.

These are great instructions that sound threatening to the guy who does not have surgical hands. For the greater good, I will try!

For tapping I meant tapping on the gauge itself. Old school trick to test if the gauge has settled.

Haha, got it. When I get some time, I'll give it all another try. Thanks!

 

[TenaCJed]

Received replacement gauge and this one is just about spot on to what my regulator and original blowtie with separate gauge!

Since I did not find anything on removing the gauge, thought I would take a couple of pictures while doing it.

First picture shows the replacement gauge next to the blowtie.

Second picture screws are out and the cover is off. Also the smaller computer screwdriver I use to pry the gauge off is in the picture.

Third picture shows prying from the bottom plate to separate the gauge. Keep doing this slowly and easily from each side.

Last picture shows the gauge removed and the bottom of the plate with the o-ring to hit with some keg lube.

Put everything back and screws back in and test it out!

 

[ILMSTMF]

Since I did not find anything on removing the gauge, thought I would take a couple of pictures while doing it.

Somebody give this dude a medal. I'll give it a go with my current (leaky) gauge. Will report results, THANK YOU!

 

[ILMSTMF]

Edit - double post whoops.

 

[twqqis]

Somebody give this dude a medal. I'll give it a go with my current (leaky) gauge. Will report results, THANK YOU!

I'm currently going through the same issues as you've explained here. Mind giving us that update?

 

[timpoulsen]

I can't wait to try it. It came as a package with a new Allrounder vessel.

 

[ILMSTMF]

I'm currently going through the same issues as you've explained here. Mind giving us that update?

I actually never got around to it. Sorry. :-/

I've come to conclude my "issues" with the BlowTie are just user error. Seems I've managed to get the damn thing working as intended. I think?

Disclosure - I am guessing. Below is my experience, I'm not an expert.

So, a little patience seems to be the solution. Connect BT to the vessel you are trying to relieve pressure from. The gauge reports the current pressure. Slowly open the dial. Get it dialed to where it isn't resisting, tightly. Don't open dial to the point where the dial comes fully unthreaded. Let the dial sit for ~1 minute? If you've got pressure building in the vessel, it should start to bleed off. You'll know! And when you hear that hiss, just slowly dial it back tighter to lock in your target relief pressure.

I really don't know what the FK I'm talking about, take that for what it is. Good luck!