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American IPA Blood Moon IPA

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Brewed this yesterday.

I tweaked the fermentables a little bit because I didn't read the OP's recipe right, and got a bunch of DME instead of LME, I also used 2lbs. of regular dark extract instead of 100% golden. Also subbed the German carafoam because my BAM was out of Belgian carapils.

1lb. German Carafoam steeped 30min @ 155F
6lb. Golden DME 60min
2lb. Dark DME 60min

1oz Cascade 60min
.5oz Cascade 15min
.5oz Australian Galaxy 15min
.5oz Citra 15min
.5oz Cascade 5min
.5oz Australian Galaxy 5min
.5oz Citra 5min

Will be adding another ounce of each to dry hop.

Wyeast 1056- American Ale smack pack pitched @ 70F
Target ferm. temp 68F

Before Boil: 6.6gal
After Boil: 5.75gal
Transferred: 5.5gal

OG: 1.075

Looking forward to this one!
 
Has anyone made this with just DME and no LME? How much DME would be used if I just use dme

See my reply above yours. I used 6lbs. Golden DME and 2lbs Dark DME. Finished at 1.012 and just kegged it. First samples were delicious, I can only hope that it will get better after a week or so to keg condition.
 
See my reply above yours. I used 6lbs. Golden DME and 2lbs Dark DME. Finished at 1.012 and just kegged it. First samples were delicious, I can only hope that it will get better after a week or so to keg condition.

It will get better trust me. Also, I have a new IPA recipe that I will post soon which is similar to this, but with more hops. I just bottled it last weekend and will open one up this weekend :mug:
 
I'll be using 5lbs of golden light DME and then 2lbs of breiss sparkling amber dme for this recipe Sunday. Can't wait to brew it!
 
I made this recipe last month exactly as the original post called and it turned out fantastic! I was a little unsure of myself as it was the first time I have dry hopped a beer but I will defiantly be brewing this one again.
 
I made this recipe last month exactly as the original post called and it turned out fantastic! I was a little unsure of myself as it was the first time I have dry hopped a beer but I will defiantly be brewing this one again.


How much water did use to steep the grains?
 
Brunoshad: I did a 3 gallon boil when I did this one.

Jakis: I did 6 days when I made this recipe. However, I am making a rye IPA right now and dry hopping for 10 days. I think 9 would be fine.
 
Hey guys - I'm just starting to adventure out from straight kit-brewing, and will be trying this recipe. I have a question though! What is the purpose of waiting until fermentation is complete before dry hopping? Why not dry hop right when you seal up the fermenting barrel?
 
What is the purpose of waiting until fermentation is complete before dry hopping? Why not dry hop right when you seal up the fermenting barrel?

I googled this topic and found some hints of why dryhopping in secondary (or at least after the active phase of primary fermentation is over).

Firstly, dry hopping will be less efficient during krausen. Krausen is a sign lots of CO2 being produced and bubbling out of the beer. If CO2 is leaving the beer, so is your hop aroma. The point of dry hopping is to increase your hop aroma, so you don't want it bubbling at all anymore by the time you add your dry hop addition, because this will decrease the effectiveness of the dry hopping as the CO2 will carry away the aroma molecules. After about a week in primary for most ales, the foam should settle and dissipate (https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/...-dry-hop-when-forgoing-secondary-fermentation).

Secondly, some authors agree that dry hopping in secondary decreases the chances of contamination or beer. If the hops are added to the secondary fermenter then the alcohol content and the low pH of the beer will suppress bacterial growth.
 
Brewed 5 gal batch of Blood Moon IPA today, strictly per recipe. Hop aroma is overwhelming, can't wait to taste the final product. :mug:
 
Also new. why the dme @15 remaining

I'll answer this and the other question:

For the DME at 15 minutes, this is done for a couple of reasons. The first is that the longer that extract is boiled, the more maillard reactions occur in beer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction
These reactions darken your beer, which is why it is difficult to create truly light-colored beers with extract. It will not make your a blonde an amber, but it does occur. This effect can be lessened by added the extract later, or doing a full-boil (not adding water at the end), which can be tough in kitchen brews. I tend not to worry about this.
The second reason is more critical, and it is that the specific gravity of the wort in the boil affects the IBU contributions of hops. I don't have beersmith in front of me, and I always forget the directions things move, but if you. If you don't care about hitting the color of your beer exactly, then just check with an IBU calculator to make sure that if you move all the extract the beginning that you end up with the right IBU's.

to the secondary-or-not and why wait on the dry hop, Dreamiurg was mostly correct, but I disagree with his point at the end. Hops and high alcohol environments do help with contamination, but transferring to secondary is riskier than primary-only. That said, I prefer to rack IPA's to secondary because I have read, and have only limited anecdotal evidence, that if you accidentally dry-hop for over 7 days on an active yeast bed, it can get weird. I've thought of asking Brulosophy.com to investigate this.

Hope that helps!

ZB
 
Has anyone put together an all grain recipe for this one? Sounds like a great brew!
 
I'm new to brewing and this will be my third batch! My LHBS only has the citra hops in whole form, no pellets. In addition it does not have galaxy so I am using more citra instead. Is this okay to do? It won't make the beer bad will it?
 
I'm new to brewing and this will be my third batch! My LHBS only has the citra hops in whole form, no pellets. In addition it does not have galaxy so I am using more citra instead. Is this okay to do? It won't make the beer bad will it?

I would just double up on the citra replacing galaxy with citra. It will turn out amazing either way! Like others have posted, it will come out more like zombie dust, not exactly like zombie dust because zombie dust is all citra hops and this one will have cascade with citra.

Good luck and enjoy :tank:
 
I would just double up on the citra replacing galaxy with citra. It will turn out amazing either way! Like others have posted, it will come out more like zombie dust, not exactly like zombie dust because zombie dust is all citra hops and this one will have cascade with citra.

Good luck and enjoy :tank:

Thanks for the reply. My LHBS was actually out of the citra as well so I only had 3 ounces of cascade to work with. With a 3 gallon boil I'm looking at about 31 IBU? I guess it sadly won't be an IPA but hopefully it'll still be a tasty pale ale!
 
I Just finished brewing the blood moon IPA recipe got it all cooled and into the carboy now and decided to take an OG reading, the reading I'm getting with my hydrometer is around 1.088! The original recipe on here gives a OG of 1.061 how on earth did I mess the up?
 
I Just finished brewing the blood moon IPA recipe got it all cooled and into the carboy now and decided to take an OG reading, the reading I'm getting with my hydrometer is around 1.088! The original recipe on here gives a OG of 1.061 how on earth did I mess the up?

Did you do a partial boil or full? This could matter because if you did a partial and added the rest of your water later then you may not have shaken it up together enough. You either did not mix it enough or did not have 5 gallons of wort.
 
I did a partial boil, adding 2 gallons of water after the boil. I must have not mixed it well enough if no one else who has brewed this has had a problem.
 
I did a partial boil, adding 2 gallons of water after the boil. I must have not mixed it well enough if no one else who has brewed this has had a problem.

My general practice is mix it up until I think it mixed pretty good, then mix it up for another minute :mug:
 
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