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Blichmann Burner

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I have been leaning toward a Blichmann to replace or add to my current Bayou SQ-14 burner. The question I have is if I buy a dual regulator hose, will I need to change one of the ends to accommodate one of the burners? In short, are the hose fittings for the Blichmann and the Bayou SQ-14 the same?

Also what is the Blichmann's height? I made a small portable stand that's just high enough for me to dump wort from the BK to my fermentor. Just curious if it's the same height as the SQ-14.
 
+1 for brewing outside. I could not imagine it any other way. However, I have only had to contend with acorns and falling leaves. I have no experience with dust.


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The dust has me nervous simply cuz it's in the air all day long. I know there are brewers from Az on here so I'm hoping they weigh in on the subject. Regardless, I'd like to get off the stove ASAP since it takes a long time just to get the water boiling and I do have a gas stove. Even then, the boil isn't as vigorous as I'd like it to be. I even use two burners and put the pot in the middle. :confused:
 
My question is what is the point of the needle? Why is it necessary?

I suppose the needle valve would be useful as a pre-set metering device that would live downstream of a more binary gas valve - like a ball valve or solenoid - so you could leave the needle valve set for the desired burn rate. On an automated system, that would be handy...

Cheers!
 
Ok, my buddy with the Blichmann bitched out on me this weekend, but I actually picked up a banjo burner from Agri supply that I wanted to post about. First off, without a doubt, you get much more heat from the banjo burner. So much heat that I actually burned off the plastic handle of my HLT valve. Also, the burners are exceptionally quiet, especially in boil maintenance mode. A drawback that I did notice though is that the burner seemed more affected by the wind. Blichmann owners, how does the wind affect your burners?


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Like all burners, the Blichmann isn't going to operate to its fullest when there is lots of wind present. Some effort to shield it from wind is necessary. Since I wouldn't ever try to brew in strong winds, I can't tell you what difference it makes. Light breezes aren't a big deal though, that's for sure.

The only people who have negative things to say about Blichmann burners are those who don't own one.
 
Well, I ordered a Blichmann burner last week and it arrived a couple of days ago. I wasn't expecting it to ship for another week or two, but anyways....

I went to my cousin's to brew today. We did a Heady Topper clone and I brought my burner as he has been interested in one as well. The two biggest things that impressed me were how much faster we got to a boil than on my Bayou Classic and how dead quiet the burner runs. The burner manifold is freaking huge compared to my SQ-14.

The only 'concern' (I use that word lightly) I have is how hot the valve on the boil kettle gets. The way my Bayou is set up, I have a small stainless heat shield I can place between the kettle and burner frame (The Bayou pots comes with a heat shield). The Blichmann doesn't have much frame to wedge a heat shield between its frame and the kettle. We tried it earlier today, but the heat shield looks like it was going to melt due to the heat of the Blichmann, so we run this batch without one.

For you Blichmann owners, is it alright to use a shield for your ball valves? If not, what do you suggest? I don't want the rubber to melt on the handles on mine, so I'm thinking about just removing them or get one of those clip on shields like Bobby M sells.
 
I used to use aluminum foil as a heat shield for my ball valve, but I got tired of doing that. I removed the plastic cover from the handle and replaced it with a piece of silicone tubing. Works great, hasn't melted or burned, and keeps me from burning my hand on a hot valve handle.
 
Well, I ordered a Blichmann burner last week and it arrived a couple of days ago. I wasn't expecting it to ship for another week or two, but anyways....

I went to my cousin's to brew today. We did a Heady Topper clone and I brought my burner as he has been interested in one as well. The two biggest things that impressed me were how much faster we got to a boil than on my Bayou Classic and how dead quiet the burner runs. The burner manifold is freaking huge compared to my SQ-14.

The only 'concern' (I use that word lightly) I have is how hot the valve on the boil kettle gets. The way my Bayou is set up, I have a small stainless heat shield I can place between the kettle and burner frame (The Bayou pots comes with a heat shield). The Blichmann doesn't have much frame to wedge a heat shield between its frame and the kettle. We tried it earlier today, but the heat shield looks like it was going to melt due to the heat of the Blichmann, so we run this batch without one.

For you Blichmann owners, is it alright to use a shield for your ball valves? If not, what do you suggest? I don't want the rubber to melt on the handles on mine, so I'm thinking about just removing them or get one of those clip on shields like Bobby M sells.

I use a 15 gallon kettle and have not had any problems with the valve getting torched. It has got hot a few times and I turn it down a wee bit. I really like the burner; I call it Flame Tongue. If you wanted to make a shield, you could probably cut part of a coffee can and hang it with wire from the valve.
 
Your boilermaker should have came with a piece of stainless steel sheet with a slot cut into it when you bought it. That is a heat shield for your boilermaker valve and site glass.
The shield rests on the boilermaker burner and the slot is for one of the kettle supports located on the burner. In the instructions booklet it specifically warns against direct heating of the valve and sight glass or heat failure may occur. Remember to peel the protective plastic sheet off the heat shield before use or it will make a mess when it catches on fire.
 
I also used aluminum foil. I took a long sheet and folded it over on itself about 8 times and wrapped that around the valve, it worked great. I imagine the heat shields that bobby sells would work good too.
 
Your boilermaker should have came with a piece of stainless steel sheet with a slot cut into it when you bought it. That is a heat shield for your boilermaker valve and site glass.
The shield rests on the boilermaker burner and the slot is for one of the kettle supports located on the burner. In the instructions booklet it specifically warns against direct heating of the valve and sight glass or heat failure may occur. Remember to peel the protective plastic sheet off the heat shield before use or it will make a mess when it catches on fire.

If your reply is to me, I don't have the Boilermaker. My 10 gallon kettle is the Bayou Classic.
 
Your boilermaker should have came with a piece of stainless steel sheet with a slot cut into it when you bought it. That is a heat shield for your boilermaker valve and site glass.
The shield rests on the boilermaker burner and the slot is for one of the kettle supports located on the burner. In the instructions booklet it specifically warns against direct heating of the valve and sight glass or heat failure may occur. Remember to peel the protective plastic sheet off the heat shield before use or it will make a mess when it catches on fire.


I was wondering what that was for. I don't have a burner. I borrow my fathers & only have 2 batches on the Boilermaker. So even if your comment was misplaced it was used!


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The first time I used my blichman with legs I smelled burning rubber and noticed the valve handle was melting. I shift the pot slightly off center so the valve is to the outside and have never had a reoccurrence. I would be interested in seeing a homemade heat shield on a blichman. Wind has been a huge problem and I use old storm windows to make a three sided windshield but I just came into a bunch of heavy galvanized sheet metal that I plan on constructing something when the snow ends. Lots of wind and snow at my elevation in the mountains.
I add that the blichman is an investment into sustainability and is very unlikely to end up in a landfill.
 
This shows the Blichmann-provided heat shield doing its job on one of my slightly modded floor burners. With the pot centered on the burner the piece of stainless sheet is just pinched atop adjacent pot rests and just under the edge of the pot bottom. It's really very effective, I've used them for five years, the vinyl ball valve handles are pristine and the sight gauges never boil.

btw, these shields don't have any holes punched in them. From an earlier description, apparently Blichmann has changed the design and the way the shields are to be used, so the above may no longer be an optimal method...

Cheers!

ab_aug_14_2011_06.jpg
 
Funny thing, last fall I was walking down the road and found none other than a stainless steel plate. It's in the basement. I'll give it a try.
Thanks, Yvette
 
Simply Homebrew in Pa. sell a custom heat shield that attaches to the supports on Blichmann burners. They have them in copper and stainless. The shield covers more of the boiler than the piece of stainless Blichmann supplies and looks like it is part of the burner. It doesn't fall out when the boiler is lifted. It doesn't have sharp corners.
 
Simply Homebrew in Pa. sell a custom heat shield that attaches to the supports on Blichmann burners. They have them in copper and stainless. The shield covers more of the boiler than the piece of stainless Blichmann supplies and looks like it is part of the burner. It doesn't fall out when the boiler is lifted. It doesn't have sharp corners.

Link? If it's somewhere on their site they've successfully hidden it...

Cheers!
 
Simply Homebrew in Pa. sell a custom heat shield that attaches to the supports on Blichmann burners. They have them in copper and stainless. The shield covers more of the boiler than the piece of stainless Blichmann supplies and looks like it is part of the burner. It doesn't fall out when the boiler is lifted. It doesn't have sharp corners.

Also curious about a link.
 
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