Blichmann BrewEasy Temperature Probe Placement

[Normans54]

Hi all,

I have a Blichmann BrewEasy and I am trying to figure out where the best place to put the temperature probe is. The instructions seem to instruct me to place the probe either in the flow control manifold installed on the Command Stand (#1 in the photo below) or in the return point to the mash tun (#2 in the photo below):

At the same time, I am not sure if this is the optimal place to put the temperature probe. This is because the BrewEasy is a K-RIMS system and it seems the universal consensus is that the proper place to put the probe in a RIMS system is at the outlet of the RIMS tube (which in this case would be the boil kettle's valve.) At the same time, the wort has to travel a long from the boil kettle valve back to the mash tun so the temperature of the wort will almost certainly drop by the time it returns to the mash tun. As a result, I am concerned that placing the probe at the boil kettle valve is suboptimal because it will lead to the actual mash temperature being lower than it should be. Does anybody have thoughts on where the optimal place to put the probe is, whether my concerns are merited, and how to address them if they are? Thanks!

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Assuming you're using silicone hoses and a decent flow rate, the temp won't change much on the very quick route from the kettle output to the mash tun. I tried to run wort through a silicone hose in an ice bath to chill one time and it had very little effect. That silicone is a very nice insulator it seems. Couple that with a flow rate such that wort will only be in the hose for a few seconds (maybe up to 10 if you're recirculating very slowly) and I wouldn't expect much temp change.

I am just finishing up a build of my own DIY K-RIMS rig. My plan is to measure the temp coming out of the kettle. Actually, I have a custom Spike kettle with a probe port directly into the kettle. I plan to use that so that I don't have to be recirculating to measure kettle temps.

I also have a thermapen that I'll use to check the temp in the mash tun. If I see a significant difference, I can just plan for it and run the kettle temp a degree or two higher as needed. That being said, I have a Chapman Thermobarrel for the MLT, so I really doubt I'll see much, if any, difference.

 

[bkboiler]

I would put it at the return to the mash vessel.
For a K-RIMS, you don't need the "responsiveness" like with a RIMS.
The volume of fluid in the RIMS tube is tiny compared to what's in your K-RIMS heated vessel.
That's the big reason they put the sensor IMMEDIATELY downstream in a RIMS system. You could overheat more easily due to the smaller volume of liquid in the RIMS tube.

 

[R_Horn]

Mine is up top like you show in the photo and works well

 

[k-daddy]

I have a side by side, 2 vessel, kettle rims setup using 2 pumps to circulate wort in a “figure 8” pattern. Originally I had the temperature probe placed where the wort returned to the MT (just ahead of the autosparge). I have since relocated the probe to the exit point on the BK close to the heating element (lower left of photo). Reason being that if you have a temperature discrepancy between the BK & MT, or a circulation problem, you can easily overheat the mash as the probe waits for the heat to build, especially if you perform a mash out. I only have a 2 degree max drop between the BK & MT. This has worked flawlessly for me (knock wood).

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I have a side by side, 2 vessel, kettle rims setup using 2 pumps to circulate wort in a “figure 8” pattern. Originally I had the temperature probe placed where the wort returned to the MT (just ahead of the autosparge). I have since relocated the probe to the exit point on the BK close to the heating element (lower left of photo). Reason being that if you have a temperature discrepancy between the BK & MT, or a circulation problem, you can easily overheat the mash as the probe waits for the heat to build, especially if you perform a mash out. I only have a 2 degree max drop between the BK & MT. This has worked flawlessly for me (knock wood).View attachment 725147

As a person just about to bring a K-RIMS rig online, I have a couple questions about your photo/rig?

1) What are the pinch valves for on your kettle and MLT output hoses?
2) Do you have any problems getting your pumps to prime with the input coming in from the bottom? I'm used to seeing the inputs come in from the top with the pumps completely lower than the source output. I was going to mount mine on the underside of the table.

 

[k-daddy]

As a person just about to bring a K-RIMS rig online, I have a couple questions about your photo/rig?

1) What are the pinch valves for on your kettle and MLT output hoses?
2) Do you have any problems getting your pumps to prime with the input coming in from the bottom? I'm used to seeing the inputs come in from the top with the pumps completely lower than the source output. I was going to mount mine on the underside of the table.

Those tubing clamps are there simply to contain the wort when swapping/draining the tubing. Don’t need them but it makes things a little cleaner. The Blichmann Riptide pumps have an air vent bleed valve on the left side and the fluid level in the MT & BK are always higher than said valve so priming is not an issue. Also let’s me keep the running length of the tubing to a minimum. Those pumps BTW are fantastic... and nice & quiet.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Those tubing clamps are there simply to contain the wort when swapping/draining the tubing. Don’t need them but it makes things a little cleaner. The Blichmann Riptide pumps have an air vent bleed valve on the left side and the fluid level in the MT & BK are always higher than said valve so priming is not an issue. Also let’s me keep the running length of the tubing to a minimum. Those pumps BTW are fantastic... and nice & quiet.

Yep, I have one Riptide that I love. Want a second, but they're on back order everywhere. Until I can get a second, I'm going to gravity feed from the MLT to the kettle, then pump with the riptide back to the MLT.

I've seen people orient them vertically like that, but I've never seen it with the input on the bottom.