BIAB efficiency

[BrettV]

For those of you doing BIAB consistently, what kind of efficiency are you getting? I've been doing mostly BIAB PM brews (with a sparge) for almost 3 years now, and I seem to get crazy high efficiency. The default setting on my software is 75%, and I generally surpass the OG by quite a bit. For instance, I brewed a kolsch yesterday that should have come in at 1046, but actually read between 1050 and 1051 which gives me an efficiency of more like 84%. For the record, these are hydrometer readings taken right before pitching yeast, which means I have added extract and top-up water at this point. I don't have a refractometer to take readings before boiling. Although, my batch yesterday only had 1 pound of extract and about 0.5 gallons of top-up water, so it was NEARLY all grain.

I have heard that BIAB can yield fairly high efficiency, but I'm curious if others are experiencing efficiency in the mid-80s.

For those who like to know all the details, here was my recipe:

6# German pilsner mash 60 mins. at 148
0.5# Munich Light 10L mash 60 mins. at 148
1# Pilsen DME late boil (15 mins.)

1 oz. Tettnang 60 mins 4.6%AA
0.5 oz. Crystal 60 mins 4.1%AA

1 Whirfloc tablet late boil (15 mins.)

Wyeast 2565 Kolsch

I mashed on the lower end to keep it dryer, which might also explain the higher OG. I sparge using a second kettle with 2 gallons of water heated to 160. I "teabag" the grains, and then let them sit for another 30 mins for a little more conversion. Basically, I use Deathbrewer's Stovetop Partial Mash thread for guidance.

 

[Oginme]

Yup. Consistently between 85% and 86% for most brews. Higher gravity brews (>1.080 sg) generally run down to around 82% to 84%. All-grain, no extract recipes.

 

[DurtyChemist]

Step mash Monday. Protein rest for 20 minutes. Alpha rest for 10. Beta rest for an hour. Used thicker mash than normally and hit 80%. Home brew shop said they had the grain mil tighter yesterday and said I might hit 90s

 

[smyrnaquince]

Search for the poll I did on efficiencies BIABers are getting.

 

[WayFrae]

I do no sparge BIAB and consistently achieve a 75% efficiency.

 

[DurtyChemist]

I do no sparge BIAB and consistently achieve a 75% efficiency.

I just did a step mash with a sparge and hit 80% but I'm going back to 'traditional' BIAB and adding all the water in the beginning.

 

[Beer-lord]

Never less than 75% and mostly in the low 80% range for me.

 

[Zzyzx3]

Ditto. I have been doing biab for about a year and have been getting in the 80-85% range for efficiency. When I get my grain crushed, I usually ask for a finer crush and it seems to help out with the efficiency.

 

[soccerdad]

I'm almost always 75% or better

 

[DurtyChemist]

Just had 71% efficiency by setting the strike water to 165 and adding 11 lbs of Pilsner pale malt to about 10 gallons of water this weekend. Not my typical setup or mash schedule since I was trying to see what the most basic mash schedule I could create would come out as.

 

[BrettV]

Brewed today, and if the hydrometer reading is correct, I got 91% efficiency. Is that even possible?

 

[mb82]

Brewed today, and if the hydrometer reading is correct, I got 91% efficiency. Is that even possible?

Yes. The 134%( not a typo) I got one batch was not, I got new brewing software after that incident.

Normally I am sitting 80-84% but today for some reason I got 75%. I am thinking the wheat/oats in this batch didn't play well with my corona mill. Also this is the first time I didn't hand crank a batch, I might go back to hand cranking.

 

[beng]

I typically get 75% or better. I do the full mash amount minus a gallon. Then after the mash is over I "sparge" with that remaining gallon, I've only seen efficiency increases by using this method.

 

[hio3791]

I mashed on the lower end to keep it dryer, which might also explain the higher OG.

Assuming you had full conversion, mashing at different temperatures only affect the FG.

I've only done 1 BIAB and got 84%. I've been batch sparging with a cooler MT for years and averaged 75% efficiency. I am working towards being a full-time BIAB brewer but not for the increased efficiency. I want to do it to simplify my process.

 

[thaymond]

Now that I've tried the bat have spare a few times on my setup, I'll consistently hit the mid 80s. Without it, using yooper's "squeeze it like it owes you money" method, I was in the high 60s and low 70s, depending on my malt bill.

I also still squeeze my bag (cough cough). (^_-)

 

[ram5ey]

Efficiency in BIAB is directly related to your grain to water ratio. So you will get higher efficiency at say 2.6 qt./lb. than you would with the same grist at 2. The "dunk sparge" is really just adding volume through dilution from everything I've seen and heard.

Other things that will change efficiencies are your crush and to some extent your mash ph. But I have found that I get about 85% at 2.6qt./lb. and about 70% at 2 qt./lb.

One day I'm going to plug all the numbers and just make a chart.

 

[ram5ey]

Oh yes and always squeeze the bag.

 

[pricelessbrewing]

Efficiency in BIAB is directly related to your grain to water ratio. So you will get higher efficiency at say 2.6 qt./lb. than you would
Other things that will change efficiencies are your crush and to some extent your mash ph. But I have found that I get about 85% at 2.6qt./lb. and about 70% at 2 qt./lb.

One day I'm going to plug all the numbers and just make a chart.

I've heard this a few times, and I only have a 30qt pot so it makes me jealous but I'd love to see this experiment and data. My other comment is that doesn't mashing so thin at 2.6 effect your ph significantly? Especially on something with low acid malts like a pale ale? Do you have to adjust more for mashing so thin than you would normally?

 

[Oginme]

I've heard this a few times, and I only have a 30qt pot so it makes me jealous but I'd love to see this experiment and data. My other comment is that doesn't mashing so thin at 2.6 effect your ph significantly? Especially on something with low acid malts like a pale ale? Do you have to adjust more for mashing so thin than you would normally?

There is some good experimental data presented by Kai Troester at http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.ph...ity_and_efficiency_in_single_infusion_mashing on a number of mash parameters including mash thickness.

The effect of a thin mash on pH is highly dependent upon your water quality. I have no problems with pH with an all 2-row grain bill, but my water has fairly low buffering capacity. Certainly, if your water is higher pH, you may need to make an adjustment with acid or a buffer to help keep the pH in an acceptable range for mashing.

 

[ram5ey]

Yeah when I used a lot of darker crystals or roasted malts I usually will add them late in the mash which has proved really successful.

 

[Roundhouse]

I've only done biab 3 times and they were all around 82%-83%. Low 80's seems to be a common range. With fly sparging on a standard system I top 90% but it's a MUCH longer brew day.

 

[amandley]

I typically get in the mid to high 70's. If I actually sparge and mash out it get into the mid 80's

 

[Happywanderer]

Ok - so I'm stepping up slowly from extract to BIAB. Just picked up a 10-gal cooler from Homedepot for $40. Had a choice between the 10-gal and the 5-gal. I figured the 10-gal would future-proof my setup.

Going to attempt a partial mash Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone. Hoping to hit north of 60% efficiency.

Course - if my efficiency is too high, my ABV is going to be WAY over spec.

My concern has been my water. And after reading the last few posts here, I'm a bit more concerned.

My water Ph is about 7.3 according to a water report. Anything I should be worried about?
Exact water profile (according to water company report) is:
Cl - 92
Ca - 59
Mg - 15
pH - 7.3
Na - 72
SO4 - 63
Alkalinity - 138 as CaCO3 - roughly 168 as HCO3.

 

[WayFrae]

Ok - so I'm stepping up slowly from extract to BIAB. Just picked up a 10-gal cooler from Homedepot for $40. Had a choice between the 10-gal and the 5-gal. I figured the 10-gal would future-proof my setup.

Going to attempt a partial mash Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone. Hoping to hit north of 60% efficiency.

Course - if my efficiency is too high, my ABV is going to be WAY over spec.

My concern has been my water. And after reading the last few posts here, I'm a bit more concerned.

My water Ph is about 7.3 according to a water report. Anything I should be worried about?
Exact water profile (according to water company report) is:
Cl - 92
Ca - 59
Mg - 15
pH - 7.3
Na - 72
SO4 - 63
Alkalinity - 138 as CaCO3 - roughly 168 as HCO3.

I'm no expert on water but the sodium seems kinda high to me and the Cl to SO4 ratio would give you a higher malt perception. I just use RO or distilled water and build my water from there. I have a quick question for you though, if you got a 10 gal cooler then why are you doing partial mash? Just go full all grain man! You should easily hit 70% efficiency as long as you squeeze the bag. And be sure to add enough water to account for absorption.

 

[Happywanderer]

1 step at a time. Limited right now by pot size. And don't have a wort chiller. Those two items are all that remain for me to go AG BIAB. Just ordered by outdoor burner. Bayou Classic sp10 I think. ~55,000btu. Should get the job done.


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Edit - Ya know what... I just thought about it and if I'm set on BIAB - which I am - screw it. I'm taking the cooler back and getting a 10-gal pot to go with my burner. Already got a 24x24 mesh bag for the grain too. So - my next batch will be AG. Wort-chiller... need to build a wort-chiller....

 

[DrummoRC]

I follow the same process with my BIAB brew process. I use the step mash process I start around 142 then do two more steps before mash out - over 90 minutes. My yields are always higher then the software calc.

I typically do a kind of a batch sarge with the bag - make a small batch ending up with a gallon in a separate fermenter - so I can play with hops and yeast in the small batch. I enjoy the variety! It's a little extra work but I don't mind the extra beer. Just have to watch out for tannins in the second running.



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[pricelessbrewing]

I'm using a 30qt (7.5G) pot and I sparge about 1-2G depending on the batch volume. Consider doing the same, there's not really a NEED for you to do full volume BIAB.

I haven't done this yet, but I will once I get my wedding brews out of the way. Try nochill brewing, transfer boiling wort to an airtight HDPE container, get the air out. Wait till it's cooled down to room temp, a few hours or so. Maybe overnight. Pitch yeast in the morning.

 

[BrettV]

I'm using a 30qt (7.5G) pot and I sparge about 1-2G depending on the batch volume. Consider doing the same, there's not really a NEED for you to do full volume BIAB.

I haven't done this yet, but I will once I get my wedding brews out of the way. Try nochill brewing, transfer boiling wort to an airtight HDPE container, get the air out. Wait till it's cooled down to room temp, a few hours or so. Maybe overnight. Pitch yeast in the morning.

Wouldn't cooling it down that slowly prevent the cold break from being thermalized out of the wort?

 

[pricelessbrewing]

Wouldn't cooling it down that slowly prevent the cold break from being thermalized out of the wort?

Apparently not. The nochillers get lots of break material aftee transfering from their containers to primary, and equally clear beers. Don't really see the downside personally besides having to wait a bit to pitch yeast.

 

[DrummoRC]

The full volume BIAB process has worked well for me - last time I tried altering my process those batches did not turn out well at all - so I went back to what had worked for me and what continues to work for me on a consistent basis now.


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