BIAB Brewing (with pics)

SSBrew - 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
eulipion2 said:
Agreed. BIAB is single vessel, full-volume mash. For the longest time I even heated the grain and water together with great results. The only "enhancement" I've made was to fashion a bag press out of some plastic buckets because I really hate squeezing by hand.
Click to expand...

I've read some on heating the grains with the water. I think I will try this next time.
I need to steal some of these squeeze techniques!
 
copper2hopper said:
View attachment 227652
This is what I call maximizing the squeeze!
Click to expand...

That just gave me a really cool idea. I have a bunch of these handscrews in my wood shop. I might have to attach some pieces of 3/4" plywood to the insides of the jaws on one to make a big bag-squeezin' press thingy.

205708_front500.jpg
 
Do it! We did this again on our last brew day and forever will. It's so easy and saves time and the hands from burning. The grain absorption is practically nonexistent once finished.
 
lumpy5oh said:
Just curious do you heat your sparge water?

>>. Yes. I heat the initial water in my 10.5 gal kettle, and add to the round cooler with grains in a bag. Drain and squeeze when done mashing into that kettle. Heat the remaining mash out water in my old 5 gal pot, and add that and the grain bag back into the cooler for the mash out. Drain and squeeze again after 10-15 mins. Combine volumes into the big kettle and commence boil.<<


I think we could call your hybrid; Brewing With A Bag.

>> Really all we are doing is "mashing in a bag," right? You do a full volume mash in a bag, I do it with a batch/dunk sparge step. Once you get your runnings, do you leave the bag in? I suppose you could add another clean bag to the kettle to catch the hops and other gunk during the boil, but I'm assuming most take the grain bag out after the mash and boil without another bag in the kettle. The fact that my mash is accomplished in 2 steps rather than a full volume doesn't negate that we are both simply mashing in a bag.<<

Granted if you are only using 2 vessels you are saving in equipment and space compared to full 3 vessel brewing; which is part of the beauty of Biab.

>> I started with extract, and have the old 5 gal pot laying around, which I use to heat the mash out water. So I guess I have a 3 vessel setup. 5 gal round cooler plus a 10.5 gal and a 5 gal pot.<<


What I think some are missing is that in pure Biab you use the full volume of water you will need in the mash. The extra water rinses the grains just as sparging does.
>> If it works and you like it, then great. I'm not going to argue whether BIAB is a purist technique to begin with. We are still simply mashing in a bag.<<

A 90 min Biab full volume mash and a 60 min mash with a sparge really keep the grains in contact with water for approximately the same amount of time. I just think that doing the full volume route is simpler.
>> I agree, it may be simpler for some, but my process is pretty simple, too. I, probably like some others, like the ability to control water to grain mash ratios. Does it matter much in the end in for a 5 gal batch?...I really don't know. I've read that there could be issues with ph with full volume, which I've never needed to mess with with my setup.<<

For those who do use the cooler set up; how do you regulate your mash temps? In using my brew kettle as the mash tun ( with a blanket wrapped around it) if my temp falls out of range I just add heat.
>>. Hmm. One of the benefits of an insulated cooler is that they hold their heat really well. It takes a little trial and error, and a calculator helps. It also helps in my setup if I preheat the cooler/MT. For example, if I add 165-170 deg water at dough-in, it will regulate down to my mash temp very quickly, and will hold it there for a good hour. It does the heat regulation for you.<<

Using your current setup; I would suggest trying full volume. As long as the cooler can hold your mash temps; you may want to join the dark side of pure Biab.
>> So, I could do a full volume in my 10.5 gal kettle (may try it out one day). I cannot do a full volume mash in my 5 gal cooler, though, hence the drain and batch sparge extra step. For me, the cooler holds mash temps wonderfully, and it frees me up for an hour to do other things. I don't have to worry about wrapping the kettle, or monitoring and adding heat among the way. Again - if it works for you and others, that's great and I'm not tying to convince anyone to do it otherwise. Maybe one day I'll try a full volume mash for the hell of it. I'm open to trying new things.<<
Click to expand...





Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
BrewinBromanite
Excellent reply. Thank you.
I have a 15 gal pot and can see how your process allows you to do full 5 gal batches with a smaller kettle. I do pull the bag at the end of the mash and use smaller bags for my hops.
I questioned the cooler holding temps only because I have read a number of posts where people have had issues. Glad to hear yours seems to work wonderfully.
I am a pure Biab purist and a deciple of Pat Hollingdale. I need to remember sometimes that not everyone has the same setup and modifications need to be made.
 
lumpy5oh - It is definitely one of the things about home-brewing that I love. There's so many ways to do it, and experimenting and finding what works and fun to do at the same time is why I do it! (Not to mention the obvious - great beer at the end!)

I do have a question for you full-volume mashers. I mentioned I've read about ph issues coming into play, requiring measuring and tweaking ph, water adjustments, etc. Do you find, from your experience, that ph is an issue with your full-volume mashes? Do you adjust for it?

I've always used ozarka spring water water (not distilled or R/O) jugs from the gas station down the street, and have never had any issues with flavor, so I've never bothered messing with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
In my experience I haven't had to do much with my water. I've used a couple of online calculators to look at my water initially. My tap water is perfect for stouts. I typically use half tap water and half R/O water with a little gypsum. My ph's have all been in range with that.
 
Walzenbrew said:
What's the best way to do this without a propane burner?
Click to expand...

Many options, stove top, heatstick, electric element installed in kettle, induction burner, hot plate, wood fire, steam kettle, electric turkey fryer, large electric coffee urn, $$$braumiester$$$, $$$$blichmann boil coil$$$$.

Easiest is likely stovetop for smallish batches, or stovetop w/ heatstick for larger batches.

Best way, how big is your check book?
 
wilserbrewer said:
Many options, stove top, heatstick, electric element installed in kettle, induction burner, hot plate, wood fire, steam kettle, electric turkey fryer, large electric coffee urn, $$$braumiester$$$, $$$$blichmann boil coil$$$$.

Easiest is likely stovetop for smallish batches, or stovetop w/ heatstick for larger batches.

Best way, how big is your check book?
Click to expand...

Not big. I have a keggle and propane burner i'll sell (probably get around $300). I definitely wnat to do full batches (5.5 gallons) and definitely want to do all grain (BIAB).

Ideally, i'd like to figure something out ahead of time so that I don't buy something and have to resell etc. That seems to be the brewer's dilemma
 
Walzenbrew said:
Not big. I have a keggle and propane burner i'll sell (probably get around $300). I definitely wnat to do full batches (5.5 gallons) and definitely want to do all grain (BIAB).

Ideally, i'd like to figure something out ahead of time so that I don't buy something and have to resell etc. That seems to be the brewer's dilemma
Click to expand...

If you have a keggle and burner already all you need is a bag. Your keggle is plenty big enough to get 5.5 gal VIF.
 
lumpy5oh said:
If you have a keggle and burner already all you need is a bag. Your keggle is plenty big enough to get 5.5 gal VIF.
Click to expand...

My issue is that I moved to an apartment that doesn't allow outside burners. So I can only brew indoors, my keggle is too big for my kitchen stove.

I'm thinking a 15 gal kettle that can fit on my stove so I have plenty room for high gravity brews if I need to in the future.
 
Make sure you measure your stove top clearance. My 10g tamale steamer fits with no trouble. My 15 g tamale steamer just barely clears the microwave hood. It's so close I can't use it.
 
The_Bishop said:
The stove's capacity to boil a kettle that big is an issue, too.
Click to expand...

True dat! Getting up to mash temps and then up to a boil after pulling my bag (booyah!) is the longest part of my brew day :). My kettle is wide enough that sits mostly over 2 burners, so that helps some.

You can always supplement with a heatstick, though. I've been torn between buying one and DIYing one. I might check into Bobby_M's new offering, however.
 
jtratcliff said:
True dat! Getting up to mash temps and then up to a boil after pulling my bag (booyah!) is the longest part of my brew day :). My kettle is wide enough that sits mostly over 2 burners, so that helps some.

You can always supplement with a heatstick, though. I've been torn between buying one and DIYing one. I might check into Bobby_M's new offering, however.
Click to expand...

I'm definitely going to get a heatstick if the stove isn't powerful enough. The clearance is actually pretty high. Since I already have a 5g kettle, I might go with a nicer 10gal kettle for space.

I don't see myself making any particularly high OG beers or any 10 gallon batches.
 
Walzenbrew said:
I'm definitely going to get a heatstick if the stove isn't powerful enough. The clearance is actually pretty high. Since I already have a 5g kettle, I might go with a nicer 10gal kettle for space.

I don't see myself making any particularly high OG beers or any 10 gallon batches.
Click to expand...

If you can afford a 15 gal kettle; I would go with that. I find that even doing only 5 gal batches I need 9 gal of water. You will need to be quite careful with the 10 gal pot but the 15 will be just the right size to fit grain and water and no worries of boil over.
 
Great, thanks. Other than using beersmith, what good calculators are available for determining malt / batch size?
 
malboa said:
What size batch of biab can you get away with a beginner 6.5 kettle?
Click to expand...

I can make a 5 gallon batch in a 7 1/2 gallon pot. That doesn't necessarily mean that you can. I would try a 4 gallon in a 6 1/2 gallon pot but I would be really careful when the wort approached boil as it would be really likely to boil over.
 
RM-MN said:
I can make a 5 gallon batch in a 7 1/2 gallon pot. That doesn't necessarily mean that you can. I would try a 4 gallon in a 6 1/2 gallon pot but I would be really careful when the wort approached boil as it would be really likely to boil over.
Click to expand...

I too can squeeze out 5 gallon batches with my 7 1/2 gal. pot. :mug:
 
I can't recommend enough the 15 gal Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer. I have no scientific proof but I think the tri clad bottom helps heat up better. I use it across 2 burners on my stove.
 
Seven said:
STEP 2: Heat water

Mash temperature for this batch is 152-degrees F.
Strike temperature is 160-degrees F.

View attachment 22034

Add 7.5 gallons of water to boil kettle and heat to the required strike temperature

While heating the water, lower basket into kettle so it heats up as well
Click to expand...

Sorry, I know this is a newb question but above the recipe says "Mash In: 60 Minutes with 7.50 gal of water @ 159.3 F "

But here you say its 152. What's With the discrepancy? Am I missing something?
 
fun4stuff said:
Sorry, I know this is a newb question but above the recipe says "Mash In: 60 Minutes with 7.50 gal of water @ 159.3 F "

But here you say its 152. What's With the discrepancy? Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

You can also use a strike temperature calculator, like this one. It will give you the exact temperature for your strike water depending on your ambient/grain temperature where you are.

Hope this helps.
 
JimTheHick said:
Or sparge with the two gallons. It's often mentioned that BIAB is no sparge, but damn it's pretty easy to pour the extra two gallons back through the bag while it rests on a grate over top of the kettle while heating to boil.
Click to expand...
Do these additional 2 gallons take into account the water that would be absorbed by the grain during sparging? I.E., would you need more than 2 gallons of sparge water to remain with the 2 gallons you need to then add to the boil kettle?
 
malboa said:
Do these additional 2 gallons take into account the water that would be absorbed by the grain during sparging? I.E., would you need more than 2 gallons of sparge water to remain with the 2 gallons you need to then add to the boil kettle?
Click to expand...


The grain will not absorb any more water, if you sparge 2 gallons, you should get 2 gallons through the bag and in your kettle. I have found the simplest way is to merely sparge to you desired preboil volume. By marking volumes on your brew spoon, you will have a dip stick that you can measure volumes in the kettle, just keep sparging until you reach desired PB volume.
 
Quite a while back, I bought a bag from wilserbrewer. At the time, it was going to be an attempt at controlling hops in my boil. Found something else that worked well for that and never used the bag.

So, just because I could, I did a BIAB today. (Actually still have 70 minutes of boil left, but the mash is over.) Not going to give up my three vessel system, but it was a fun change.

Mashed 16.5 lbs of grain in 8 gallons of water on an induction hob, recirculating the whole time. Pulled the bag after 60 minutes and dunked it in 5 gallon of water in my old aluminum pot. Tea bagged it for a short time and hung it from a tree to drain.

Didn't take a pre-boil gravity, so still unsure of efficiency. It's a simple summer wheat (45% wheat, 45% Pils, 10% sugar, all Citra hopped), so it'll be hard to screw up.

Sure, I'll do it again!

Time for a beer while waiting for the boil to end. Happy Mother's Day!

edit to say:
Hit 75% efficiency using my standard grind. Down about 5 points from three vessel, but exactly what I had planned for in BeerSmith. Good brewday!

BIAB_01.jpg
 
This is an extremely interesting and informative thread, and thanks to all who contributed to it.
But guys it is totally impossible to read through all nearly 200 pages!
Would it be possible that the thread patrons somehow make a digest, like BIABer's crash course, or a list of Must Read posts, and make it sticky, or put it in the beginning of the thread?
I'd love to read it all but...
Thank you!
 
Seven said:
STEP 6: Measure results

Taking a gravity reading at this point will allow you to determine your brewhouse efficiency.

Take a pre-boil specific gravity measurement using a hydrometer or refractometer.

Record how much wort you collected in your kettle.

View attachment 22047

I used the calculator here to determine my efficiency: Brewer's Friend

According to this calculator, my brewhouse efficiency for this batch is 75.53%.

Not too shabby!
Click to expand...


Wouldn't this actually refer to conversion efficiency vs brew house efficiency? At least that's how I think I'm reading it according to the brewers friend efficiency calculator
 
makisupapolice14 said:
Wouldn't this actually refer to conversion efficiency vs brew house efficiency? At least that's how I think I'm reading it according to the brewers friend efficiency calculator
Click to expand...

Pre-boil volume and SG allow you to calculate mash efficiency.
Mash Efficiency = Conversion Efficiency * Lauter Efficiency.​
Conversion efficiency is how much of the potential sugar you actually created in the mash. Lauter efficiency is how much of the sugar created in the mash made it into the boil kettle. If you want to measure conversion efficiency, use the method here.

Brew on :mug:
 
So when he says 75% brew house efficiency is he actually referring to mash efficiency? Is this the efficiency biab brewers usually refer to when they mention efficiency?
 

Similar threads

C
New BIAB Convert
Replies
3
Views
694
Kornssj
Kornssj
C
Biab huge volume of trub.
Replies
7
Views
697
CascadesBrewer
CascadesBrewer
DonH
For Sale SoCal - FULL 20gal BIAB /Keezer / Ferm Fridge
Replies
6
Views
860
DonH
DonH
U
Wanting to try BIAB
Replies
17
Views
2K
phbern
P
Kornssj
BIAB Lemon Lime Hefeweizen (First Time Need Help)
Replies
25
Views
2K
Bobby_M
Bobby_M
BrewSwag 300

Latest posts

Back
Top