BIAB Brew Kettle suggestions needed

[Art2019]

I've been extract brewing 5 gal batches for 10+ years and now I want to start brewing BIAB & have 2 all grain kits on order. I only have a 5 gal pot with propane burner and need to upgrade to a 10-15 gallon vessle.
I contacted the HBS & rep suggested that a 10 gal kettle would work but 14 gal kettle is more appropriate for biab. He explained that he had an 8 gal brew kettle for biab and he felt a bit crowded with preboils, at times, so he upgraded to a 14 gal kettle & is totally happy with it his experience now (has Brewmaster). After further review on the Brewmaster he suggested, I decided I wanted a better kettle since specs on this show 201 SS vs the 304 SS i'm looking for. Don't want issues down the road.

After some research, I've narrowed down my options to Ss Brewtech, MegaPot, & Spike OG Std Vert couplers. It's a bit overkill but here's what I'm seeing for 15 gal, Thermo guage & ball valve:

Ss Brewtech: Pros - 304 SS with 1mm wall & 6mm triclad bottom, all TC hardware, 3 piece Ball valve w/ Trub Dam pick-up tube, etched volume mrkgs, silicone coated handles, return policy with HBS = 60 days used or not
($359) Cons - Thermometer is at 5 gal mark (per Ss Brewtech support), no option to exclude thermometer, handles front to back (unsure if con)
(10g-$299)
MegaPot : Pros - 304 SS with 4mm triclad bottom, option to exclude thermometer, etched volume mrkgs, handles side to side, silicone handles
($325) Cons - .8mm wall, NPT hardware, thermometer at 4.5 gal mark, if thermometer is excluded no port is available for future use
(10g-$250)
Spike Std. : Pros - 304 SS with 1.2mm wall & 4mm triclad bottom, all TC hardware, thermometer opt will be moved to desired location (3 gal), option to only have thermo port for
($388) future use, silicone handle.
(10g-$368) : Cons - Lead time is 6 wks after order

I'm hoping to get some good advice/suggestions here for my options for a good brew kettle. Do you have one where, if you had a redo, what would you add or delete? Do you feel, from your experience, is a 10 gal vs 15 gal would be better? Also, doesmanyone need/have a recirc for your biab or do, you just stir by hand?

I read that a rule of thumb is a proper kettle size should be 8.5-10 gallons & if larger batches are planned, a 10-15 gal is best. I thought 15 gal would be good size, just in case I wanted to do a big brew of 8-9 abv but, after thinking about it, I could just add add'l DME to the mix instead, right?
I only plan on brewing 5 gal batches. Electric isn't an option.

Again, any thoughts are appreciated. I hate overkill & want to make a reasonable decision since I'm new to this part of brewing.
And, FYI, I told Spike that I'm doing biab and wanted something simple but a little future proofed. I got a quote for 4 ports - thermomoter, ball valve, recirc, & whirlpool. I'm having him revise...Was over $1.4k & I'm not looking to spend even half that.

 

[PCABrewing]

I have two MegaPot (8 & 10 gal).
Pretty happy with both.
I bought the 8 gal. specifically for BIAB and omitted the thermometer to avoid snagging/tearing the bag.
BTW, they do not come with NPT hardware in the pot wall, just a hole. The default bulkhead supplied is an NPT nipple (ISO Flow) but I prefer the EZClean version because it is more stable. The default has o-rings on both the inside and outside that make it a bit flexy.
You do need to buy the EZClean version separately ($27). Too bad you just missed the sale on Megapots.

 

[PCABrewing]

As far as size, I find the 10 gal. pot adequate for any 5-6 gal. batch.
If I am brewing a big high OG brew I mash in a separate cooler.
My opinion, YMMV.

 

[Art2019]

I have two MegaPot (8 & 10 gal).
Pretty happy with both.
I bought the 8 gal. specifically for BIAB and omitted the thermometer to avoid snagging/tearing the bag.
BTW, they do not come with NPT hardware in the pot wall, just a hole. The default bulkhead supplied is an NPT nipple (ISO Flow) but I prefer the EZClean version because it is more stable. The default has o-rings on both the inside and outside that make it a bit flexy.
You do need to buy the EZClean version separately ($27). Too bad you just missed the sale on Megapots.

Spoke with them yesterday & they have the PIDAY promo which applies to the MegaPots. I missed PIDAY, ended 3/14. MoreBeer has the 17% off sale through 3/17, NB is out then so will need to go for SS

 

[MaxStout]

I have a 15g and 20g Concord from Amazon. Cheap, not clad bottom, but they work fine for me on a propane burner.

For a triclad kettle, I have an 8g Megapot. I really like it, very robust. I can brew 5 gallon batches of low and medium gravity brews on the elec stove top, though I need a 1000W heat stick to assist. I bought it undrilled, as I wanted the thermometer placement lower. If you're the DIY type, you can get a step bit for around $20 and drill your own. Then get weldless bulkhead fittings for drain valve and thermometer.

You can also get weld-on fittings and have a shop weld it.

 

[Yesfan]

For BIAB brewing of 5 batches, I'd go with a 15 gallon kettle as a minimum. 20 gallons is preferred by a few for bigger abv double batches. I don't drink as much as I used to, so my 15 gallon kettle is more than enough for the beers I brew, which are sessionable 5% or lower.

One thing I'll add is, I can't recommend the Blichmann linear valves enough. I bought one for my kettle and it's so easy to break part and clean. I have the EZ clean that use a triclamp. It too is a great valve, but I like the Blichmann much better. It's just two parts that screw together.

 

[Art2019]

For BIAB brewing of 5 batches, I'd go with a 15 gallon kettle as a minimum. 20 gallons is preferred by a few for bigger abv double batches. I don't drink as much as I used to, so my 15 gallon kettle is more than enough for the beers I brew, which are sessionable 5% or lower.

One thing I'll add is, I can't recommend the Blichmann linear valves enough. I bought one for my kettle and it's so easy to break part and clean. I have the EZ clean that use a triclamp. It too is a great valve, but I like the Blichmann much better. It's just two parts that screw together.

I guess if I'm looking for big beer, which I like, I can add dme for the boost when boiling if I finally decide 10g. Was looking for $200-$300 range & it's getting up there, especially Spike but they will customize as much as you need.
I like to do as ez as I can, less parts less to lose.

 

[MaxStout]

I guess if I'm looking for big beer, which I like, I can add dme for the boost when boiling if I finally decide 10g. Was looking for $200-$300 range & it's getting up there, especially Spike but they will customize as much as you need.
I like to do as ez as I can, less parts less to lose.

If you're thinking Spike, you might want to have a look at this recent thread. You can draw your own conclusions, but know that they have reduced their engineering staff considerably. Those lead times could be extensive.

Have you looked at Brew Hardware? Bobby carries several lines, and he could do some customizing. Like TIG weld bulkheads where you want them. He's a HBT sponsor, BTW.

 

[Yesfan]

I guess if I'm looking for big beer, which I like, I can add dme for the boost when boiling if I finally decide 10g. Was looking for $200-$300 range & it's getting up there, especially Spike but they will customize as much as you need.
I like to do as ez as I can, less parts less to lose.

I have to agree with Max about Spike. I have a lot of Spike products, but a potential long lead time could be a deal breaker.



Max also mentioned Brewhardware, which I also agree, so here's a budget option to look to if you don't want to pony up the funds for the uber kettles LINK It's not Spike or Blichmann, but should still get the job done.

It's 18.5 gallons, so should be more than enough room. That kettle, a false bottom, BIAB bag, and a hoist and you're in business. I'd think you'd have money to spare vs the cost of a Spike or Blichmann kettle alone.

 

[Art2019]

If you're thinking Spike, you might want to have a look at this recent thread. You can draw your own conclusions, but know that they have reduced their engineering staff considerably. Those lead times could be extensive.

Have you looked at Brew Hardware? Bobby carries several lines, and he could do some customizing. Like TIG weld bulkheads where you want them. He's a HBT sponsor, BTW.

Thanks for the link. I was given a lead time of about 6 weeks for delivery, point is, the guy that made quote sent something, I thought, was wayyy out of the ballpark from what I said I wanted.

I did send Brew Hardware an e-mail 2 days ago about my needs but haven't gotten a reply, yet. How long does this normally take?

I've just seen a cple vids of "1st time biab" & one was with the guy brewing with an 10 gal MegaPot & propane burner & only spigot, another was with a Keg converted into a pot. Guess they were showing you how it isn't necessary to spend a lot for biab.

 

[Art2019]

I have to agree with Max about Spike. I have a lot of Spike products, but a potential long lead time could be a deal breaker.



Max also mentioned Brewhardware, which I also agree, so here's a budget option to look to if you don't want to pony up the funds for the uber kettles LINK It's not Spike or Blichmann, but should still get the job done.

It's 18.5 gallons, so should be more than enough room. That kettle, a false bottom, BIAB bag, and a hoist and you're in business. I'd think you'd have money to spare vs the cost of a Spike or Blichmann kettle alone.

Agreed. Spike's expensive & are many other alternatives out there. Brewmaster looks nice but is 202 stainless steel & I'm looking for a better grade.

 

[PCABrewing]

That Brewmaster 18.5 has a couple nice features over the MegaPots.
1.2mm wall thickness beats .8mm.
Includes two ports by default and provides that valve and a plug for the upper port.
Doesn't appear to have the clad bottom but the price is decent for what it has.

 

[Yesfan]

I saw in your original post about the Brewmaster being 201 stainless. I can understand preferring 304, so have you looked at Delta Brewing Systems? They make a decent 15 gallon kettle that is 304 stainless for less than $250.

Delta Brewing Systems 15 gallon kettle

If you prefer something a bit more upscale, Blichmann has the Anvil line of boil kettles. Their 15 gallon one is almost $100 more than the Delta, but still a cheaper alternative to Spike, SS Brewtech, Blichmann, and others.

 

[MaxStout]

I did send Brew Hardware an e-mail 2 days ago about my needs but haven't gotten a reply, yet. How long does this normally take?

I've never had @Bobby_M do custom work, though I've read some favorable results from other HBTers.

 

[PCABrewing]

If you prefer something a bit more upscale, Blichmann has the Anvil line of boil kettles. Their 15 gallon one is almost $100 more than the Delta, but still a cheaper alternative to Spike, SS Brewtech, Blichmann, and others.

Or you could quit dragging your feet and buy this:
https://www.northernbrewer.com/prod...erms-horizontal-system?variant=30312917041196

 

[Art2019]

I saw in your original post about the Brewmaster being 201 stainless. I can understand preferring 304, so have you looked at Delta Brewing Systems? They make a decent 15 gallon kettle that is 304 stainless for less than $250.

Delta Brewing Systems 15 gallon kettle

If you prefer something a bit more upscale, Blichmann has the Anvil line of boil kettles. Their 15 gallon one is almost $100 more than the Delta, but still a cheaper alternative to Spike, SS Brewtech, Blichmann, and others.

Yes, I did look at this. It's a nice brew kettle & spoke to Jeff about it. The grade is 304 & wall is 1mm & bottom is 3mm thick. This was on my list but was focused on the others mentioned in my post due to better quality (not much, though) but I couldn't find many reviews the DBS kettles.
The only issue I had about it was the thermometer being too high at the 4 gallon mark & he couldn't make any adjustments.

 

[Art2019]

I've never had @Bobby_M do custom work, though I've read some favorable results from other HBTers.

It looks like his site is just a warehouse of other brands being adverised.

 

[shoengine]

It looks like his site is just a warehouse of other brands being adverised.

Brew Hardware is a reseller. They do custom welding there, which is what the post was about. Some nifty custom stuff on thay site though. I really like the weldless recirc fitting, and recently had these items fabricated there.

Agree with the 15 gallon, unless you have severe constraints on storage. No real reason to go smaller if aiming for 5 gallon batches. I shoot for 6 gal post boil which usually require 8.5 - 9 gal of water plus the grain. Never had a boil over. I can do ~10 ABV before my efficiency starts plummeting in a 16 gal pot.

 

[Bobby_M]

I did send Brew Hardware an e-mail 2 days ago about my needs but haven't gotten a reply, yet. How long does this normally take?

I'm not ignoring you. The email came in at 4:38pm Eastern Time on a Friday (yesterday). My homebrew club is running our annual competition and I judged a table last night at 5pm and then two more this morning. I just got home. I will now review your email and this whole thread and get back to you.

 

[Bobby_M]

Going through the effort of upgrading the kettle only to constrain your ability to perform a full volume no sparge batch for higher gravity seems like a half measure to me. So, if you end up going with just a bigger kettle and nothing else, at least a 50QT or 50 Liter pot, Minimum.

Let's take a step back though and rather than pick out an exact pot, consider the long game. All grain brewing does need some reasonable level of temperature control for the mash. Even if you accept some "slop", we're talking about +/- 3F to execute a recipe as intended. That means that a metal pot, used as a passive container will be frustrating at times. Maybe not every batch, but many.

Tricks: Preheat the oven to 170 for a while. Stir in the grain and stash the whole pot in the oven with the racks removed. No real heat loss due to the high ambient air temps.
Insulate really well with an old sleeping bag. Add heat maybe once if needed but you have to remove the insulation to not burn it.

If you're already willing to spend upwards of $400, I recommend something like the Anvil Foundry 10.5 because it takes the fiddling out of equation. You'll need an immersion chiller anyway and it comes with it. It's double wall so it holds heat well and it has digital temp control. You can use it on 120 volts for now and look ahead to installing a 240v outlet in the future to speed up brew day even more.

 

[Bobby_M]

It looks like his site is just a warehouse of other brands being adverised.

I started Brewhardware in 2009 building custom assemblies and gadgets. A significant portion of our business to this day is custom designed and manufactured (unique) hardware. Of course to stay viable and profitable, we also sell a wide range of national brands. Consider this... When you buy from a company that only sells their own product line, they will never tell you another brand would serve you better. That would be business suicide.

 

[Art2019]

Brew Hardware is a reseller. They do custom welding there, which is what the post was about. Some nifty custom stuff on thay site though. I really like the weldless recirc fitting, and recently had these items fabricated there.

View attachment 871022

Agree with the 15 gallon, unless you have severe constraints on storage. No real reason to go smaller if aiming for 5 gallon batches. I shoot for 6 gal post boil which usually require 8.5 - 9 gal of water plus the grain. Never had a boil over. I can do ~10 ABV before my efficiency starts plummeting in a 16 gal pot.

Definately no constraint issues, here. If my house gets cluttered, I'll just move stuff to my barn or garage. I just want buy smartly since I see no sense in spending on alot that won't be ulilized. What do you have on your pot? Trying to get a feel for what I'll need for biab. I've seen barebone setups to omfg, over the top setups in my search.
Just trying to figure out my sweet spot. What I do want, is a spigot & useable thermometer port, in case I need in future. I'm unsure of a recirc & whirlpool port.

 

[Art2019]

Going through the effort of upgrading the kettle only to constrain your ability to perform a full volume no sparge batch for higher gravity seems like a half measure to me. So, if you end up going with just a bigger kettle and nothing else, at least a 50QT or 50 Liter pot, Minimum.

Let's take a step back though and rather than pick out an exact pot, consider the long game. All grain brewing does need some reasonable level of temperature control for the mash. Even if you accept some "slop", we're talking about +/- 3F to execute a recipe as intended. That means that a metal pot, used as a passive container will be frustrating at times. Maybe not every batch, but many.

Tricks: Preheat the oven to 170 for a while. Stir in the grain and stash the whole pot in the oven with the racks removed. No real heat loss due to the high ambient air temps.
Insulate really well with an old sleeping bag. Add heat maybe once if needed but you have to remove the insulation to not burn it.

If you're already willing to spend upwards of $400, I recommend something like the Anvil Foundry 10.5 because it takes the fiddling out of equation. You'll need an immersion chiller anyway and it comes with it. It's double wall so it holds heat well and it has digital temp control. You can use it on 120 volts for now and look ahead to installing a 240v outlet in the future to speed up brew day even more.

Yes, this what I'm seeing for size. I read a kettle size 2x the batch or 2.5x if planning on any big brews. I'm looking for a vessle to be used on a burner, not electric. If I didn't live offgrid, this would have been a consideration.
Also, I plan on brewing biab for a while since it seems much easier and basically the same thing as an all grain system.

 

[Art2019]

I'm not ignoring you. The email came in at 4:38pm Eastern Time on a Friday (yesterday). My homebrew club is running our annual competition and I judged a table last night at 5pm and then two more this morning. I just got home. I will now review your email and this whole thread and get back to you.

Sorry, wasn't accusing you of ignorring me. Where I live, a day is "1 or 2 days, or a couple days" in conversation. When I ask a contractor when he'll be out to my place, I get "sometime next week" & he's out the next day.

 

[Art2019]

I started Brewhardware in 2009 building custom assemblies and gadgets. A significant portion of our business to this day is custom designed and manufactured (unique) hardware. Of course to stay viable and profitable, we also sell a wide range of national brands. Consider this... When you buy from a company that only sells their own product line, they will never tell you another brand would serve you better. That would be business suicide.

I understand.
Actually, helping customers out when you don't have the product is respectable, not business suicide. Word of mouth is the best form of advertising.
I didn't hear about your company here first, someone had recommended you from Reddit yesterday. And you also had mention ober the last 5 days in FB as well since I've been trying to figure out what I need.

 

[doug293cz]

I plan on brewing biab for a while since it seems much easier and basically the same thing as an all grain system.

BIAB IS all grain brewing. The difference between traditional all-grain brewing systems and BIAB all-grain brewing is in how the lautering (separation of the wort and grain) is performed. In a traditional system, the wort is drained from the vessel, and the grain stays where it was. In BIAB the grain is removed from the wort, and the wort stays where it was. You can do everything with BIAB that you can do with a traditional system, except a proper fly sparge. You can batch sparge with either system, but with BIAB you need a second vessel to do the sparge (you already have multiple vessels in a traditional system.)

Brew on

 

[Art2019]

BIAB IS all grain brewing. The difference between traditional all-grain brewing systems and BIAB all-grain brewing is in how the lautering (separation of the wort and grain) is performed. In a traditional system, the wort is drained from the vessel, and the grain stays where it was. In BIAB the grain is removed from the wort, and the wort stays where it was. You can do everything with BIAB that you can do with a traditional system, except a proper fly sparge. You can batch sparge with either system, but with BIAB you need a second vessel to do the sparge (you already have multiple vessels in a traditional system.)

Brew on

Yes, I understand the concept. Did I say something that to the contrary in one of my commemts? I'm unsure what your point is, otherwise.

 

[doug293cz]

Yes, I understand the concept. Did I say something that to the contrary in one of my commemts? I'm unsure what your point is, otherwise.

There are a number of brewers who don't seem to understand that BIAB is all-grain brewing. The way you phrased what I quoted could be interpreted as you also believed that there is some fundamental difference, and that somehow BIAB isn't "real" all-grain brewing.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

Definately no constraint issues, here. If my house gets cluttered, I'll just move stuff to my barn or garage. I just want buy smartly since I see no sense in spending on alot that won't be ulilized. What do you have on your pot? Trying to get a feel for what I'll need for biab. I've seen barebone setups to omfg, over the top setups in my search.
Just trying to figure out my sweet spot. What I do want, is a spigot & useable thermometer port, in case I need in future. I'm unsure of a recirc & whirlpool port.

If you don't have any method of automating your heat control, you'll be much better off retaining as much heat as possible with insulation. recirculation will lose you heat faster. Without running on electric, heat control is pretty challenging. A thermometer installed in the side is just going to snag the bag. Use a handheld or remote wire thermometer through the lid.

 

[Art2019]

If you don't have any method of automating your heat control, you'll be much better off retaining as much heat as possible with insulation. recirculation will lose you heat faster. Without running on electric, heat control is pretty challenging. A thermometer installed in the side is just going to snag the bag. Use a handheld or remote wire thermometer through the lid.

I do have method of heat control, it's a propane burner and you're very correct with insulation (not so accurate with electric ). Temp will be monitored in pot via wifi temp guage. I'll explain:
Extract brewing involves steeping "grain in a bag" at 152f-160f for about 30 mins & I'll cover the lid to maintain temp, stir every 10-15 mins. and when temp gets near below mashing temp, l just ignite burner to maintain heat.
BIAB has the same theory (IMO) treating "steeping grain in a bag" as extract, right?
Except, with BIAB, I'm steeping in a much larger bag at a longer time (60-90 mins vs 30 min). With a propane burner, heat will be controlled, without electric automated controls & recirculation will be monitored, accordingly. Yes you're right, an installed thermometer seems like a "snag in a bag" but a port for thermometer allows for Extract brewing, Wine, Mead, or whatever else I want to brew, right? I will probably use a digital thermometer for proper temperature instead of using the thermometer.