American IPA Bell's Two Hearted Ale Clone (close as they come)
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If I were brewing this with dry yeast, I would try to use what was listed in the original recipe, S-04 - English Ale. Otherwise, I would use Nottingham over US-05.
solbes
Well-Known Member
I keep eyeing my Centennial hop vine with a lack of patience. Thing went bonkers in year 2, so a 10 gallon batch of 2 hearted it is!
Maybe brew this in a week or two. Time to step up some dregs from my 2H sixer as well.
Maybe brew this in a week or two. Time to step up some dregs from my 2H sixer as well.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
I brewed this up last night using the OP's recipe except for the yeast, i used US-05, and had to substitute Some Cascade in the bittering addition as I was a few ounces shy on Centennial. I messed up a bit on the 15 minute hop addition and didn't get it in until 13 minutes to go. One thing though, the color seems a bit lighter than Tow Hearted. I had one the other night on tap and it was a few shades darker than what this has turned out to be. I'll maybe swap the Crystal 20 for Crystal 40 next time around. It smells awesome though, looking forward to this one.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
If you don't have the bell's yeast you can use cascade for bittering as it has some similar characteristics to the house yeast in the final beer. I'd go with US-05 and cascade bittering myself. But everyone has their own opinions on how it should be done.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
I'm brewing up a batch of this with a mix of the recipes. I'm sticking with the grain bill from the OP but I'm going with the hop schedule from the recipe that was posted in Zymurgy.
For yeast, I've always thought that Wyeast 1272 was the closest you could get to duplicating Bell's house yeast without harvesting from their bottles.
I brew clones of Oberon and Hop Slam and use 1272 in all of them and I like the results...
For yeast, I've always thought that Wyeast 1272 was the closest you could get to duplicating Bell's house yeast without harvesting from their bottles.
I brew clones of Oberon and Hop Slam and use 1272 in all of them and I like the results...
crusader1612
Well-Known Member
I normally dry hop 3 days at temp the. Cold crash for an additional 2. Making 5 days total. Then you bottle/keg.
Subdivisions
Well-Known Member
after fermentation is done. I wait about 2 weeks. I dry hop for about 5 days. you can add it straight into the primary if you want. I usually cold crash afterwards to drop the hops to the bottom.
Accidentally did the 15 minute hop addition at 30 minuets...Wasn't paying attention to the recipe. So I skipped the 15 minute and did the 5 minute and 1 minute addition.
Can I sort of compensate for this by doing more for the dry hop?
Can I sort of compensate for this by doing more for the dry hop?
brewski09
Well-Known Member
You'll get more aroma out of the dry hop but not really flavor. I'd add more dry hops anyway. What you need to do first is figure out your new IBUs. That change from 15 minutes to 30 minutes could be significant. I'd definitely taste the gravity sample before tossing in your dryhops to make sure it isn't too bitter and a waste of hops (though this recipe should be fine with a few more IBU).
Also, you are supposed to get some different flavors from The hops if you add at the tail end of active fermentation so you could experiment with that.
catdaddy66
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slym2none
"Lazy extract brewer."
chisena
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I have 5 gallons dry hopping right now
It should be ready for bottling this weekend.
It should be ready for bottling this weekend.
I have 8 oz of homegrown whole leaf Cascade hops that I would like to try using so I am going to try this recipe but substitute all Centennial for all Cascade and see what happens. This is only be my second all grain batch so hopefully I don't screw it up too badly! I plan on using WLP001 as some research I have done seems to lean to using that yeast. I'm also going to try and use some gypsum in my water as I have extremely soft water where I live.
If anyone has any suggestions as to any adjustments to they think I may need to make let me know. I'll update the thread as time goes on as to my progress and what the final result is like.
If anyone has any suggestions as to any adjustments to they think I may need to make let me know. I'll update the thread as time goes on as to my progress and what the final result is like.
Welcome to HBT!
If you plan on using your homegrown Cascade for bittering too, and since you don't know the AA% of it, I would double the bittering portion, making sure you have enough left over for the flavor, aroma, and dry hop additions.
In case you'd run short on your homegrown Cascade, use some commercial Cascade or add a little Magnum, Warrior, or Nugget to the bittering charge to get to the recipe's IBU.
If you're set on using a liquid yeast, WY1272 works beautifully for this beer, much more interesting than WLP001/WY1056/US05.
If you decide on WLP001, you may as well use the dry equivalent (US05) to keep it simple, as it saves you from making a starter.
Agreed on using some extra Gypsum.
Thanks for the advice! I had read a bit about not knowing the AA on the home grown hops affecting the brew so I think I'll try bumping it up like you suggested. Also, thanks for the yeast advise. I know my local home brew supply store does not carry Wyeast but they do carry White Labs. According to a website I found it said that WLP051 is equivalent, which I had used on my first all grain. I plan to make a starter with that one.
To be clear, for upping the hops, would you suggest just at the 60 minute boil and keeping the rest of the additions the same?
WLP051 is a similar if not the same strain. Even better if you harvested it from your previous batch. How old is that? stored in fridge? You may not even need a starter if it isn't older than a month or 2 and you've got enough of it.
Yes, just double up the 60' (bittering) hops if you use your homegrown, keep the others the same or add a bit more for good measure. Taste it before dry hopping, so you can add more if need be. I'd count on saving 1 or 2 oz for dry hopping. It's gonna be good!
Lately I've been bittering straight with Magnum or Nugget, leaving the more flavor/aroma ones for additions at 10, 5 and 0 minutes. The 0-minuted hops are actually hopstand/whirlpool hops added when the wort has cooled to 180-190°F. They are recirculated (or stirred) for 30-60 minutes, then chilled to pitching temps. Keeps more long lasting flavor and aroma. Then the dry hop adds the finishing aroma for a week before packaging. I actually dry hop in the keg, for as long as the keg lasts.
Yes, just double up the 60' (bittering) hops if you use your homegrown, keep the others the same or add a bit more for good measure. Taste it before dry hopping, so you can add more if need be. I'd count on saving 1 or 2 oz for dry hopping. It's gonna be good!
Lately I've been bittering straight with Magnum or Nugget, leaving the more flavor/aroma ones for additions at 10, 5 and 0 minutes. The 0-minuted hops are actually hopstand/whirlpool hops added when the wort has cooled to 180-190°F. They are recirculated (or stirred) for 30-60 minutes, then chilled to pitching temps. Keeps more long lasting flavor and aroma. Then the dry hop adds the finishing aroma for a week before packaging. I actually dry hop in the keg, for as long as the keg lasts.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
If they are fresh/wet then that's roughly 1.5oz worth of dried hops with the same alpha acidity, which you have no way of measuring. I'd keep them late because of this and use hops from the homebrew store earlier to at least be close to your expected bitterness otherwise it's a guess and hoping you get lucky.
The hops have been dried and are currently sealed in bags in the freezer. Not knowing the AA content for the bittering addition I think may be an adventurous part of the brew. I know pellets will be much more predictable but who knows, maybe tossing in the whole leaf will produce a better result. For me, it's not like it will ruin the batch (I hope!). I honestly don't know exactly what to expect so hopefully that means I won't be disappointed!
Subdivisions
Well-Known Member
Just tapped a keg of this today. My first beer keg hopping. I put 2 oz of centennial in a fine mesh bag and racked on top of it and left it at room temperature for 5 days. Four weeks since brewday and it's the finest tasting and smelling IPA I've made yet. It's on tap at one of the local watering holes and I've never had such a smack in the face of flavor or aroma from it. They go through it pretty quick too.
Do hop oils enhance lacing in the glass? It's much better than normal in this beer.
Do hop oils enhance lacing in the glass? It's much better than normal in this beer.
I'm going to try to brew this this coming weekend. Ordered the ingredients today and made a starter tonight from the dregs of three bottles. I don't know what the strain is, but it's savage. I've never seen this kind of activity 20 minutes after pitching. Bottling was 2.5 months ago.
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